Forbidden Druid CorE vs Crestline

Has anyone actually gotten to throw a leg over a druid core and an rs181? Love my druid core but sometimes feels like I could use a little more travel in the back on bigger hits, debating if I grab a plaid out of the next run or an edread. Would lean towards the dread but really appealing that the crestline is a frame only as I bought the cheapest build core just to take all the parts off it and swap them for my own
Yes.
The cresty (bosch) has more out back, noticeably so. But it feels more suited to jank. The edruid felt sharper, stiffer, but still quite capable in the rough, and it corners better. I'd take the cresty on natural stuff, and the druid for bike park stuff.
 
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Yes.
The cresty (bosch) has more out back, noticeably so. But it feels more suited to jank. The edruid felt sharper, stiffer, but still quite capable in the rough, and it corners better. I'd take the cresty on natural stuff, and the druid for bike park stuff.
That's probably a good explanation between 150/170 enduro bikes compared to 180/180mm superduro bikes.
 
Has anyone actually gotten to throw a leg over a druid core and an rs181? Love my druid core but sometimes feels like I could use a little more travel in the back on bigger hits, debating if I grab a plaid out of the next run or an edread. Would lean towards the dread but really appealing that the crestline is a frame only as I bought the cheapest build core just to take all the parts off it and swap them for my own
Not me either.
But I do have S180 and 170/180mm high pivot mtb. So sort or a semi relevant to comparing the yet to be released E dred to the RS181.

That internal battle in your head would be about what suspension platform you enjoy the most.

Dred hp advantages
Square edge hit softening, long rear end stability, argueably better front wheel grip.
More availability?
Dred HP disdavantages.
Worse manualling/wheelieing, feels less direct. Double front end heavy suck hp and big battery.
Locking in chainstay length per size. idler noise and weight

S181 - vpp
Advantages
More playful, can still absorb the chunder, better manualling. Feels more connected.
Can configure battery size, chain stay length. Semi hot swapable batteries.
Should be lighter without the weight of the idler. Quiter aswell.

Disadvantages
Front end cornering grip depending on configuration. worse sqaure edge hits.
Like rocking horse shit to find. Better place an order as soon as they drop.
long term parts availability?
 
Think i replied to you before in another thread but 6,2/6,1 here and S3 all day. The bikes do feel long, your call though! i havent rode a S4 but i wouldnt even entertain the idea after riding a S3. However im the same with XL's i wont own another one after costly mistakes trying make them fit me better
Thanks, I did see that. Yeah, I'm pretty settled on an S3 now. Funnily, my Santa Cruz Nomad (09) is a large, but my Norco Bigfoot (albeit a fat bike) is an XL. I have put a riser bar on the Norco, spacers all below the head stem and rolled the bar back.... so probably could have gone the Large. However off their website I was squarely in the XL for the Bigfoot. Given it's a phatty and ridden differently to my dirt bike, I'm making it work.

Looking at all the geo's, I'm probably more a large guy these days, keeping on the dirt more often than not!

Now to sort out a bike! Dreadie, Atherton or Velduro?? I guess it will come down to which one I can get my hands on in a timely manner!
 
Thanks, I did see that. Yeah, I'm pretty settled on an S3 now. Funnily, my Santa Cruz Nomad (09) is a large, but my Norco Bigfoot (albeit a fat bike) is an XL. I have put a riser bar on the Norco, spacers all below the head stem and rolled the bar back.... so probably could have gone the Large. However off their website I was squarely in the XL for the Bigfoot. Given it's a phatty and ridden differently to my dirt bike, I'm making it work.

Looking at all the geo's, I'm probably more a large guy these days, keeping on the dirt more often than not!

Now to sort out a bike! Dreadie, Atherton or Velduro?? I guess it will come down to which one I can get my hands on in a timely manner!
I'd be going Dreadnought mainly cause I love my Druid 😂

Or an Atherton depending on battery spec.

I wish Forbidden would do a frame only Dread-E as I'd probably consider it even though I find the Druid spot on for 99% of my riding.
 
I'd be going Dreadnought mainly cause I love my Druid 😂

Or an Atherton depending on battery spec.

I wish Forbidden would do a frame only Dread-E as I'd probably consider it even though I find the Druid spot on for 99% of my riding.
I agree, wish they would offer a frame only, only reason I'm even considering a crestline is because the frame only is appealing to me. Wasted a bunch of money on the Core 3 build since I put my own parts on. I have the bike box with the whole brand new core 3 build in it. I'll probably put that whole kit on and sell the bike with a brand new build / groupset if I decide to pull the trigger on a crestline or e-dreadnought
 
1773522522224.webp

Well, I drank the Kool-Aid and snuck into the Forged carbon frames they dropped this morning, that color was too sexy to pass up. Will be selling my Forbidden Druid Core come June.
 
What did I miss? Did Crestline release another version that's a different frame finish or something?
 
More travel is more travel. You cannot change the physics. Rate of deceleration is reduced with more travel. You can slow the energy being absorbed when hitting bumps over a greater distance, and thus time.

Late to the party here on the travel debate. Outside of the real world experience of having owned a Druid V1, a Dread V1 and a Crestline (run at many configurations), there is some flawed, living in a vacuum logic with "more travel is more travel." you simply cannot reduce a bike's behavior to that one variable.

First fly in the ointment: rear center length. If I am on a unicycle with a rear center of 0mm and I run over a 50mm square edge, then the hub/spindle immediately move 50mm in the vertical vector, transferring 100% of that energy through the hub/spindle. Conversely, if I have a front center of 0mm (think penny farthing), when the rear wheel strikes that same square edge, the spindle will move 0mm. To split the difference, if I have an equal front and rear center, say 200mm each, then the spindle will move only 25mm in the vertical direction and take half the time to get there. the longer the rear center the greater the time before that is experienced. the longer the wheelbase, the more it flattens rough terrain, regardless of suspension travel numbers.

Second (and most important) fly in the ointment: the conjecture over travel is generally centered around a bike with a neutral position; ie. on horizontal ground. now tilt the bike profile to a 45* slope, and axle path impact gets magnified. what was once a vertical axle path is now a completely forward axle path. relative to gravity, the rear wheel hangs up even more, decelerating the bike, and pitching the rider forward, especially when rebounding. combine that with the fact that steeper terrain positions the bottom bracket above the front axle and the sensation of OTB comes on much quicker.

Take a look at what RAAW, Frameworks, and Forbidden (and to a lesser degree Crestline) are doing with their geo:

Low BB to get the spindle low/behind the front axle
Shorter reach combined with higher stack to get the rider's weight behind the front wheel, not over it (effective reach grows on steep terrain, pulling the rider's hips in front of the spindle)
Longer CS to reduce the impact at the spindle and still shift weight/force to the front wheel

All of that is useless on horizontal ground. Start to point it down a janky steep, and all of that corrects the rider's position relative to the front axle.
 
Late to the party here on the travel debate. Outside of the real world experience of having owned a Druid V1, a Dread V1 and a Crestline (run at many configurations), there is some flawed, living in a vacuum logic with "more travel is more travel." you simply cannot reduce a bike's behavior to that one variable.

First fly in the ointment: rear center length. If I am on a unicycle with a rear center of 0mm and I run over a 50mm square edge, then the hub/spindle immediately move 50mm in the vertical vector, transferring 100% of that energy through the hub/spindle. Conversely, if I have a front center of 0mm (think penny farthing), when the rear wheel strikes that same square edge, the spindle will move 0mm. To split the difference, if I have an equal front and rear center, say 200mm each, then the spindle will move only 25mm in the vertical direction and take half the time to get there. the longer the rear center the greater the time before that is experienced. the longer the wheelbase, the more it flattens rough terrain, regardless of suspension travel numbers.

Second (and most important) fly in the ointment: the conjecture over travel is generally centered around a bike with a neutral position; ie. on horizontal ground. now tilt the bike profile to a 45* slope, and axle path impact gets magnified. what was once a vertical axle path is now a completely forward axle path. relative to gravity, the rear wheel hangs up even more, decelerating the bike, and pitching the rider forward, especially when rebounding. combine that with the fact that steeper terrain positions the bottom bracket above the front axle and the sensation of OTB comes on much quicker.

Take a look at what RAAW, Frameworks, and Forbidden (and to a lesser degree Crestline) are doing with their geo:

Low BB to get the spindle low/behind the front axle
Shorter reach combined with higher stack to get the rider's weight behind the front wheel, not over it (effective reach grows on steep terrain, pulling the rider's hips in front of the spindle)
Longer CS to reduce the impact at the spindle and still shift weight/force to the front wheel

All of that is useless on horizontal ground. Start to point it down a janky steep, and all of that corrects the rider's position relative to the front axle.
I don't think anyone here is saying travel is better in isolation. None of us want to ride a 180mm bike from 20 years ago with fucked geo.

But here we compare two high end modern geo excellent bikes of different travel and different suspension platform.
The moot from the high pivot fans is that the rearward axle path counteracts the less travel. This is the standard sales pitch of high pivot bikes and quite frankly that sales pitch is misleading. Sure you get some square edge dulling with high pivot rear axle path but that absolutely does not counteract having considerably less travel.

Now there is certainly times when high pivot works real well I would say small to intermediate chuck it does a real good job. Hp pivot also does a good job and getting more stable as the chain stay lengthens giving the impression of more travel through extra stability of a longer wheelbase.
But get above small to intermediate chunk into big sends, hard hits and big chunk that's where the shear mm of travel rule (assuming an equally modern geo and suspension design). Dropping out of the sky off a 12 ft step down to bottom out? give me more mm any day of the week. This is were Astro's statement is 100% correct. Hit the below drop on a 180,, Crestline then hit the same drop on the 150mm druid, The druid rider will be absorbing more impact from that hit because less of it is dissipated through the suspension. In the landing out of the sky example, there is no advantage from hp.

Now Cresty interestingly runs some reasonably high anti squat and kinetmatics make it feel playful like a lower travel bike on the smaller stuff but when you open it up into the big chunk.... there it is, there's the capability. Its not a fully blown squish machine all the time. I can see a scenario of a rider operating below that big chunk window that they can get as much out of the druid as they could out of the crestline. I can also see a scenario where the that intermediate chunk level is the riders bread and butter and they are happy to weather harder hits on occasional big chunk they might ride and find the druid absolutely a better bike for them.

But if you love to play in the big chunk and that's your bread and butter, the 150mm Druid wont be the bike in that instance. It will be constantly under gunned and the bigger travel bike would be the better.

I'm in the big travel camp. I'm grinning the most hitting the biggest chunk and silliest of lines. If i purchased a druid i'd be dissappointed at the lack of travel in the rear end and it wouldn't be the bike for me.



20250720_153258_042.webp
 
This is were Astro's statement is 100% correct. Hit the below drop on a 180,, Crestline then hit the same drop on the 150mm druid, The druid rider will be absorbing more impact from that hit because less of it is dissipated through the suspension.


Just so many variables though, suspension setup and kinematics being foremost.
I found the cresty to be a bit unique in that the suspension felt vaguely reminiscent of older sc vpp kinematics, but not as harsh, as the frame itself felt more compliant/damped.
 
Just so many variables though, suspension setup and kinematics being foremost.
I found the cresty to be a bit unique in that the suspension felt vaguely reminiscent of older sc vpp kinematics, but not as harsh, as the frame itself felt more compliant/damped.
The cool thing is so many options of bikes and geo and kinematics to choose from. Want a 150/170mm high pivot bike... happy days, there it is. Want a 180mm vpp have at it! how about a sweet 160/170 4 bar? and the list goes on and on.

No one bike is best. Choose the poison that suits your style.
 
The cool thing is so many options of bikes and geo and kinematics to choose from. Want a 150/170mm high pivot bike... happy days, there it is. Want a 180mm vpp have at it! how about a sweet 160/170 4 bar? and the list goes on and on.

No one bike is best. Choose the poison that suits your style.
Agreed. Was super stoked to ride the Forbidden CoreE, but was really disappointed with it. My Amflow Carbon PL, for me, was so much better. Rode the Levo R on the same day & liked it a lot more than the Forbidden.
Different strokes & all.
 
Agreed. Was super stoked to ride the Forbidden CoreE, but was really disappointed with it. My Amflow Carbon PL, for me, was so much better. Rode the Levo R on the same day & liked it a lot more than the Forbidden.
Different strokes & all.
What was disappointing about it?
 
Agreed. Was super stoked to ride the Forbidden CoreE, but was really disappointed with it. My Amflow Carbon PL, for me, was so much better. Rode the Levo R on the same day & liked it a lot more than the Forbidden.
Different strokes & all.
For sure, because I'm the opposite 😂

Back to back on the same Handbuilt Enduro trails, My Forbidden is far more planted and quicker vs my mates AMflow, but HP isn't for everyone
 
Good production value on that, but is it just me or does that dude have no idea what he is talking about ?
4:20 to 4:45 in particular...
 
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Agreed. Was super stoked to ride the Forbidden CoreE, but was really disappointed with it. My Amflow Carbon PL, for me, was so much better. Rode the Levo R on the same day & liked it a lot more than the Forbidden.
Different strokes & all.
I could see that if one was on mild trails, at mild pace.
The amflow definitely has more of a trail bike vibe, and the druid trended towards enduro.
 
Good production value on that, but is it just me or does that dude have no idea what he is talking about ?
4:20 to 4:45 in particular...
Yes and no, he's right. He just doesn't explain it very well, the more aggressive you are getting your weight out over the front of the Druid the better it corners. If you're the type of rider that hangs off the back of the bike when carving corners you probably won't like how a Druid feels as you'll get a lot of front end push and have some good washouts.
 
I don't think anyone here is saying travel is better in isolation. None of us want to ride a 180mm bike from 20 years ago with fucked geo.

But here we compare two high end modern geo excellent bikes of different travel and different suspension platform.
The moot from the high pivot fans is that the rearward axle path counteracts the less travel. This is the standard sales pitch of high pivot bikes and quite frankly that sales pitch is misleading. Sure you get some square edge dulling with high pivot rear axle path but that absolutely does not counteract having considerably less travel.

Now there is certainly times when high pivot works real well I would say small to intermediate chuck it does a real good job. Hp pivot also does a good job and getting more stable as the chain stay lengthens giving the impression of more travel through extra stability of a longer wheelbase.
But get above small to intermediate chunk into big sends, hard hits and big chunk that's where the shear mm of travel rule (assuming an equally modern geo and suspension design). Dropping out of the sky off a 12 ft step down to bottom out? give me more mm any day of the week. This is were Astro's statement is 100% correct. Hit the below drop on a 180,, Crestline then hit the same drop on the 150mm druid, The druid rider will be absorbing more impact from that hit because less of it is dissipated through the suspension. In the landing out of the sky example, there is no advantage from hp.

Now Cresty interestingly runs some reasonably high anti squat and kinetmatics make it feel playful like a lower travel bike on the smaller stuff but when you open it up into the big chunk.... there it is, there's the capability. Its not a fully blown squish machine all the time. I can see a scenario of a rider operating below that big chunk window that they can get as much out of the druid as they could out of the crestline. I can also see a scenario where the that intermediate chunk level is the riders bread and butter and they are happy to weather harder hits on occasional big chunk they might ride and find the druid absolutely a better bike for them.

But if you love to play in the big chunk and that's your bread and butter, the 150mm Druid wont be the bike in that instance. It will be constantly under gunned and the bigger travel bike would be the better.

I'm in the big travel camp. I'm grinning the most hitting the biggest chunk and silliest of lines. If i purchased a druid i'd be dissappointed at the lack of travel in the rear end and it wouldn't be the bike for me.



View attachment 179825

I'll concede that the vacuum you are living does support your argument. That vacuum is
1) a completely horizontal landing (possible but poor trail design and different than you illustrated in your photo)
2) a rider with zero horizontal velocity (impossible unless bunny hopping sideways off of your drop)
3) both wheels striking the ground at exactly the same time (possible but not probable, and a skilled rider will set the rear wheel down first when they sense they are coming up short)
4) the axle path is linear and vertical in nature (you'd need set of levers that replicates an infinite instant center to achieve this)

take a peak at the manufacturers axle paths and note where the inflection point is. note that at sag, one is still moving rearward while one is moving forward. note that the behavior is magnified and the inflection happens earlier when both bikes start to deviate from perfectly horizontal. note that both of the curves are longer than the vertical travel. note that rear wheel travel changes relative to gravity the moment the bikes start to deviate from perfectly horizontal (the higher pivot actually catches up to the lower pivot in terms of vertical travel).

it would have been very easy for Forbidden to square up their rear travel to match their front travel in an effort to not have to resort to the marketing speak that you point out. why would that elect to open themselves up to ridicule? because its a system and the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.

are either approach perfect? absolutely not. everything is a compromise.

Axlepath.webp


RS-181-DJI-Wheel-Path-768x681.webp
 
What was disappointing about it?
You know how you just know when riding it? There was just not anything special about it. When I first rode my Avinox, I knew it was special. When I first rode my Orbea Wild, I knew it was special. The Druid was just... kind of blah.
But, that's why we all have our own styles and should go out and get on these bikes. What's "special" to me probably won't be for you.
 
Yes and no, he's right. He just doesn't explain it very well, the more aggressive you are getting your weight out over the front of the Druid the better it corners. If you're the type of rider that hangs off the back of the bike when carving corners you probably won't like how a Druid feels as you'll get a lot of front end push and have some good washouts.
Odd.
I found it to ride just like any of the forbidden bikes, you need to push in aggressively with your feet and hips, as opposed to weighting your hands. And are rewarded with amazing grip, particularly on flatter, loose corners.
 
I'll concede that the vacuum you are living does support your argument. That vacuum is
1) a completely horizontal landing (possible but poor trail design and different than you illustrated in your photo)
2) a rider with zero horizontal velocity (impossible unless bunny hopping sideways off of your drop)
3) both wheels striking the ground at exactly the same time (possible but not probable, and a skilled rider will set the rear wheel down first when they sense they are coming up short)
4) the axle path is linear and vertical in nature (you'd need set of levers that replicates an infinite instant center to achieve this)

take a peak at the manufacturers axle paths and note where the inflection point is. note that at sag, one is still moving rearward while one is moving forward. note that the behavior is magnified and the inflection happens earlier when both bikes start to deviate from perfectly horizontal. note that both of the curves are longer than the vertical travel. note that rear wheel travel changes relative to gravity the moment the bikes start to deviate from perfectly horizontal (the higher pivot actually catches up to the lower pivot in terms of vertical travel).

it would have been very easy for Forbidden to square up their rear travel to match their front travel in an effort to not have to resort to the marketing speak that you point out. why would that elect to open themselves up to ridicule? because its a system and the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.

are either approach perfect? absolutely not. everything is a compromise.

View attachment 180108

View attachment 180112
Well the vacuum i live in is this.

In my garage right now there is 3 x VPP enduro bikes, 2 x mid pivot 4 bar dh bikes, 1 x high pivot 4 bar and 1 x high pivot single pivot enduro bike and 1 x 4 bar trail bike.

I regularly ride high pivot, mid pivot and vpp.

I would guess my vacuum is better than most at discussing real world the pro's and cons of each design of high pivot v vpp.

Each design has pros and cons. No one design is significantly better or worse than the next design. Some designs suits individual riders preferences better. That's it. At the very high end of bikes, choose any bike that suits your riding style and it will be a good bike. The big question is does that particular bike suit your style or not. That is what needs to be discovered, decided.

I also ride with multiple national podium level riders in enduro and dh (including myself) and in all honesty we are so close to each other in speed regardless of suspension design used. The conclusion i come to is that all high end platforms options good these days. None of them suck.
 
I could see that if one was on mild trails, at mild pace.
The amflow definitely has more of a trail bike vibe, and the druid trended towards enduro.
If someone wants a playfull poppy bike the high pivot aint that bike. High pivot comes into its own blazing square edged chunder and tech. But you loose some directness in the back end, That extending back end becomes more and more stable but less and less playful.

I completely agree that an amflow or orbea rise type rider isnt really the market segement for high pivot designs. Those guys like a lighter more playful bike.
 
Good production value on that, but is it just me or does that dude have no idea what he is talking about ?
4:20 to 4:45 in particular...
At least he is spot on with regard to the pricing of the Core....must be accounting for the hike in fuel prices :ROFLMAO:
 
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