Article Video: Teewing Flux 180mm, high-pivot, Avinox EMTB first look and ride

[SteAmtb]

The lightness of the Amflow helps me clear obstacles, on both ascending and descending. It's easier to get the bike in the air, and I also feel more in control of the bike when airbourne. The Merida was 25kgs. The Amflow just over 20kgs. I find the weight of the bike makes a big difference in your ability to move it around under you.

The power and torque of the motor also helps in getting your front wheel up, when leaping off things. You only need a shorter take off area. It also gives me more time to focus on getting the rear wheel up as well, if needed.

I also just take different lines on the Amflow. I tend to just go over stuff rather than round it, because of the listed above benefits.

That said. If it's just rooty, chunky, technical downhill. The Merida definitely ploughed through better. It's why I want a Flux as the stablemate to the Amflow. But I would also consider an Amflow Enduro, if they release it in 2026.

I suspect we all have somewhat different perspectives. Friends love theirs, but the lightness of the Amflow didn’t feel like it had those same advantages for me, and didn’t match the feel of my Tyee, which is brilliant at doing stuff like a manual off a decent size drop from near standstill for example. I’m a big fan of my heavy ass Lapierre at the moment, especially on very technical downhill tracks, it feels both stable and agile, just perfect. It sucks at some stuff though, like drops from near stationary and bunny hopping on the flat without a bump jump on an obstacle like a fallen tree. I do really look forward to trying some other Avinox enduro bikes though, my mind could easily be changed and the motor is brilliant! Frame only would be good…

Interestingly, my 36 kg daughter has a Merida e One Sixty that is around 26 kg. She literally jumps to the moon and back, it blows my mind with how she pops and jumps that bike, especially on some quite serious trails. Running it back to back with her 15kg Canyon, she is more agile, a lot faster and jumps better on the Merida, in her words, she has a stable base to move the bike where she wants it to go instead of getting pinged around, her popping:

 

[Astro66]

I suspect we all have somewhat different perspectives.

It's funny how we all have different perspectives. I tried to learn the stopie, then pivot the rear wheel whilst in the air, on the E160, and I literally never improved. Really struggled just getting the rear wheel in the air. As soon as I tried it on the Amflow, I immediately started improving. I can now pivot the bike both ways about 120 degrees with a fair degree of regularity.

I just find tricks so much easier to learn on a light, poppy bike. These tricks can so improve your ability to ascend and descend, even if it just makes you more comfortable having your rear wheel in the air under braking, descending a drop.

Regarding your daughters ability to jump. She is extremely talented. But in the video she used more speed, as well as pop, to launch the bike. The difference with the Amflow, is you can get as much pop at lower speeds. And at my age, keeping the speed down, whilst still clearing gap jumps, means I do have more control at landing, if I get it slightly wrong. Anyway, that's just my experience on the two different bikes.

 

[SteAmtb]

It's funny how we all have different perspectives. I tried to learn the stopie, then pivot the rear wheel whilst in the air, on the E160, and I literally never improved. Really struggled just getting the rear wheel in the air. As soon as I tried it on the Amflow, I immediately started improving. I can now pivot the bike both ways about 120 degrees with a fair degree of regularity.

I just find tricks so much easier to learn on a light, poppy bike. These tricks can so improve your ability to ascend and descend, even if it just makes you more comfortable having your rear wheel in the air under braking, descending a drop.

Regarding your daughters ability to jump. She is extremely talented. But in the video she used more speed, as well as pop, to launch the bike. The difference with the Amflow, is you can get as much pop at lower speeds. And at my age, keeping the speed down, whilst still clearing gap jumps, means I do have more control at landing, if I get it slightly wrong. Anyway, that's just my experience on the two different bikes.

Thats good, anything that helps build skills!

She uses speed a lot less than most people, she's mega chilled, I follow her into jumps a lot, she can go slower than me on big gaps and I generally hit jumps pretty slowly, I get a bit nervous at times, even on my Tyee. Maybe the big travel and her light weight works to her advantage from a preload perspective or the forks shock combo are just spot on? Or it's just her young legs, although watching her jumping with all the teen boys, she frequently goes slower and gets more height, although it depends on the jump. She is also a good gymnast, and can do aerials and flips, so who knows?!? Regardless, she jumps better on the bigger travel heavy bike than she does on her slightly shorter travel much lighter bike and with less speed. Lots of factors and whatever works for each of us, we just need to be open to trying different things and see what works best, none of us are wrong when it comes to what works best for us.

 

[billp91311]

I would prefer a new bike like this without an idler and with a 48v system and will keep on riding my old beater for now. Specialized has both nailed but too pricey for now.

 

[B Rabbit]

I would prefer a new bike like this without an idler and with a 48v system and will keep on riding my old beater for now. Specialized has both nailed but too pricey for now.

What about Teewings first bike, the Turbo Force? It’s basically the flux, minus some travel and an idler.

 

[Astro66]

I would prefer a new bike like this without an idler and with a 48v system and will keep on riding my old beater for now. Specialized has both nailed but too pricey for now.

Why the desire for a 48V system? Loses are slightly less, but there is no other advantage. And the Avinox System is one of the most efficient.

Battery charging is one of the fastest in the EMTB sphere. And it's not like you can use 3rd party batteries of any voltage in any of the big factory bikes due to them requiring a proprietary Communication Bus.

I have 2 other 48V bikes. I have found no advantage.

 

[Blownoutrides]

You think you're gonna notice that tiny bit of extra drag with a 1000w motor?

Spoiler alert - you will not. (Shhhhh)

 

[dyldebus]

I'm not typically a fan of blue bikes but this looks pretty slick.

 

[dyldebus]

For anyone out of the US, the flux just went up for pre-order on drip E bikes.

Shop Drip e-Bikes | Premium Electric Mountain Bikes

Shop Drip e-Bikes for premium electric mountain bikes with high-end components at affordable prices. Drip e-Bikes is proud to feature Avinox powered Teewing Bikes.

dripebikes.com

 

[dyldebus]

For anyone out of the US, the flux just went up for pre-order on drip E bikes.

Shop Drip e-Bikes | Premium Electric Mountain Bikes

Shop Drip e-Bikes for premium electric mountain bikes with high-end components at affordable prices. Drip e-Bikes is proud to feature Avinox powered Teewing Bikes.

dripebikes.com

Also, geometry details

 

[slickrock]

For anyone out of the US, the flux just went up for pre-order on drip E bikes.

Shop Drip e-Bikes | Premium Electric Mountain Bikes

Shop Drip e-Bikes for premium electric mountain bikes with high-end components at affordable prices. Drip e-Bikes is proud to feature Avinox powered Teewing Bikes.

dripebikes.com

Interesting that there is a frame-only option for US buyers. Unfortunately they a pulling a car dealer scam by forcing you to buy extras (e.g. dropper) that bumps up the price. If this can be removed, then the price is more aggressive than anticipated. Shipping is not included, but then again not duties to deal with. Still waiting for kinematic graphs, especially for the MX setup.

 

[dyldebus]

Interesting that there is a frame-only option for US buyers. Unfortunately they a pulling a car dealer scam by forcing you to buy extras (e.g. dropper) that bumps up the price. Shipping is not included, but then again not duties to deal with. Still waiting for kinematic graphs, especially for the MX setup.

I found this thread and watched several videos in the last few days. Realized this is exactly the bike I've been waiting for (also watched many Turbo Force reviews for quality concerns).

I saw in this thread or another thread that Drip Ebikes was going to be the initial US distributor so I shot them an email yesterday morning. Darren (the owner) told me to call him, it was midnight his time). I spoke to him for about an hour about the Flux, the Turbo Force and the industry lol. Fast forward to today and I have an awesome custom build pre-ordered.

Just reach out to him via the website and he'll definitely work with you. He was awesome and seems to really care about not gouging the customer with component pricing on custom builds. I did a complete custom build and chose everything.

Unless I bought all clearance components I could never have matched his price through Jenson or anywhere else. This is definitely the nicest build I've ever owned.

 

[B Rabbit]

Converted US price works out about $6k aud, hopefully the Aussie importer can match or beat that
Also says it comes with ‘DJI Drive unit’ so no doubt will have a different motor then what is offered now

Exciting times!

 

[HandsomeDanNZ]

Converted US price works out about $6k aud, hopefully the Aussie importer can match or beat that
Also says it comes with ‘DJI Drive unit’ so no doubt will have a different motor then what is offered now

Exciting times!

Yeah, less exciting in NZ, where those $6000 Aussie Dollars equate to several more thousands of our Sth Pacific Pesos.

 

[dyldebus]

Converted US price works out about $6k aud, hopefully the Aussie importer can match or beat that
Also says it comes with ‘DJI Drive unit’ so no doubt will have a different motor then what is offered now

Exciting times!

 

[HandsomeDanNZ]

I tell you what - using the configurator on that site, I was able to get one to a decent spec for about $7500.
If that could be sold here in NZ for $12,500NZD it would be a very good buy indeed.

 

[Mart-e]

I see no size Small, hanging on the cusp may be a shorter stem 70mm risers...

 

[B Rabbit]

Spill the beans bro, no one knows who are on the internet......

 

[HandsomeDanNZ]

I see no size Small, hanging on the cusp may be a shorter stem 70mm risers...

I noticed their size recommendations were on the small side. I'm normally sitting right in the middle of M/L, but with their recommendation I am firmly a L (current bike is a M and fits very well).

 

[dyldebus]

I noticed their size recommendations were on the small side. I'm normally sitting right in the middle of M/L, but with their recommendation I am firmly a L (current bike is a M and fits very well).

View attachment 179194

I’m 5’10 in that awkward medium/large handoff and Darren definitely recommended a large.

 

[west]

I tell you what - using the configurator on that site, I was able to get one to a decent spec for about $7500.
If that could be sold here in NZ for $12,500NZD it would be a very good buy indeed.

Don't hold your breath. Velduro owner has the dealer rights.

 

[slickrock]

I see no size Small, hanging on the cusp may be a shorter stem 70mm risers...

I don't recall if there ever was a small. The one thing I like about this bike compared to the Rogue is the more slender downtube and painted options. Can't say the same for the seatpost height/insertion.

 

[Mart-e]

I noticed their size recommendations were on the small side. I'm normally sitting right in the middle of M/L, but with their recommendation I am firmly a L (current bike is a M and fits very well).

View attachment 179194

Looking good! Thanks mate

 

[Mart-e]

I don't recall if there ever was a small. The one thing I like about this bike compared to the Rogue is the more slender downtube and painted options. Can't say the same for the seatpost height/insertion.

Thinking back now l believe you have a good point with no mention to size small.... if this is all legit the medium will perform, still would like to remain patient, with this bike and the Rouge and who knows what may drop in?

This bike at large appeals the frame design holds complete in proportion, slender, not to be complaining but hey still lugging around on good ole (fat boy Slim) the first gen 2020 Norco Range Vlt sheesh!

 

[Astro66]

$1K difference between the Turbo Force and the Flux. Love it. That will make the Flux about AUD$9K in Australia for the Flux One A. This spec still remains really decent. This bike is going to be a great buy.

I will be pre-ordering as soon as Pushys opens the orders. Both specs of the Turbo Force remain completely sold out.

I'm thinking of sending the frame out to be resprayed Candy Red. Then add a purple graphics package, wheels, hubs, stem, chainring and grips.

 

[TheKaiser]

Also, geometry details
View attachment 179166

There are often errors on these sorts of tables, especially when there are multiple flip chip options, but some of these numbers look a little odd. In particular, the "Mullet" setup. We've all seen the pics of the flip chip on the chainstays, which raises the back end of the bike to compensate for the smaller rear wheel...but it also shortens the chainstays. However, on this table, the chainstay length is identical between full 29" and Mullet. I am guessing that the number is correct for the 29" and they've forgotten to make the adjustment for Mullet. Then if you look at the wheelbase measurements, the Mullet is universally 10mm shorter for each size relative to the 29" so they seem to have remembered to adjust for the change in chainstay length on this measure. Extrapolating from the weelbase measurements, we can guess the Mullet chainstays are -10mm the published figures.

Then there are the Hi and Low settings, which if I'm not mistaken, are made at the lower shock mount. They provide individual Hi/Low setting measurements for head and seat tube angles, BB height, stack, and reach, but in reality, switching the Hi/Low setting will alter the chainstay length and wheelbase too, which they have not accounted for. In addition, from the looks of their Hi/Low adjustment, it seems like it could also alter the shock progressiveness, but it's tough to tell without better side on pics of the 2 positions to confirm if they have accounted for the angles fully. Most bikes that have an adjustment at the lower shock are using an up/down chip to attempt to just change the height of the bike, or a for/aft chip, to adjust the leverage ratio, whereas the Flux looked to have a sort of diagonal chip that was somewhere in the middle.

 

[slickrock]

There are often errors on these sorts of tables, especially when there are multiple flip chip options, but some of these numbers look a little odd. In particular, the "Mullet" setup. We've all seen the pics of the flip chip on the chainstays, which raises the back end of the bike to compensate for the smaller rear wheel...but it also shortens the chainstays. However, on this table, the chainstay length is identical between full 29" and Mullet. I am guessing that the number is correct for the 29" and they've forgotten to make the adjustment for Mullet. Then if you look at the wheelbase measurements, the Mullet is universally 10mm shorter for each size relative to the 29" so they seem to have remembered to adjust for the change in chainstay length on this measure. Extrapolating from the weelbase measurements, we can guess the Mullet chainstays are -10mm the published figures.

Then there are the Hi and Low settings, which if I'm not mistaken, are made at the lower shock mount. They provide individual Hi/Low setting measurements for head and seat tube angles, BB height, stack, and reach, but in reality, switching the Hi/Low setting will alter the chainstay length and wheelbase too, which they have not accounted for. In addition, from the looks of their Hi/Low adjustment, it seems like it could also alter the shock progressiveness, but it's tough to tell without better side on pics of the 2 positions to confirm if they have accounted for the angles fully. Most bikes that have an adjustment at the lower shock are using an up/down chip to attempt to just change the height of the bike, or a for/aft chip, to adjust the leverage ratio, whereas the Flux looked to have a sort of diagonal chip that was somewhere in the middle.

I'm totally aligned with this post. The Mullet setup to get that extra 10mm of travel really seems to distort the geometry to point that the MX setup seems quixotic . This is why I've been harping on Teewing to release official kinematic graphs, hopefully that show line series for each flip-chip configuration. As it stands without more complete geometry and kinematics data, I would be hard pressed to operated this bike in MX mode. Perhaps run it 29 mode, but slap a 27.5 in the back.

 

[Astro66]

I'm totally aligned with this post. The Mullet setup to get that extra 10mm of travel really seems to distort the geometry to point that the MX setup seems quixotic . This is why I've been harping on Teewing to release official kinematic graphs, hopefully that show line series for each flip-chip configuration. As it stands without more complete geometry and kinematics data, I would be hard pressed to operated this bike in MX mode. Perhaps run it 29 mode, but slap a 27.5 in the back.

I have the Amflow 29er carbon rear wheel spare, as I mulleted my Amflow. So I'm going to order the Flux in mullet, then try all different configurations.

Which ever feels best I'll run. But I do love my mullet setup, and low BB, when descending. So I cannot see myself running a 29er rear wheel, on a bike I'm going to run as my downhill bike.

Infact, after purchasing my Avinox Enduro, I may switch my Amflow PL Carbon Pro back to full 29er, as it will be my Technical Climbing and Adventure Rides bike. And I believe 29ers all round work best for this. I noticed this immediately when climbing stairs. It's just that little bit easier to climb stairs with a full 29er setup.

Whilst I do love looking at geometry data. Nothing beats physically trying different configurations, and physically feeling the impact of each change.

One last thing I'll add. Because of the fantastic experience I have had with the Amflow. Part of me wants to wait to see if Amflow do release an Enduro in the next few months. But if the Flux is well priced. I won't be waiting. Mostly because I believe the Flux will sell out very quickly, if priced well. And supply of the Turbo Force has been very limited in Australia after the first initial stock sold out.

 

[dyldebus]

I have the Amflow 29er carbon rear wheel spare, as I mulleted my Amflow. So I'm going to order the Flux in mullet, then try all different configurations.

Which ever feels best I'll run. But I do love my mullet setup, and low BB, when descending. So I cannot see myself running a 29er rear wheel, on a bike I'm going to run as my downhill bike.

Infact, after purchasing my Avinox Enduro, I may switch my Amflow PL Carbon Pro back to full 29er, as it will be my Technical Climbing and Adventure Rides bike. And I believe 29ers all round work best for this. I noticed this immediately when climbing stairs. It's just that little bit easier to climb stairs with a full 29er setup.

Whilst I do love looking at geometry data. Nothing beats physically trying different configurations, and physically feeling the impact of each change.

One last thing I'll add. Because of the fantastic experience I have had with the Amflow. Part of me wants to wait to see if Amflow do release an Enduro in the next few months. But if the Flux is well priced. I won't be waiting. Mostly because I believe the Flux will sell out very quickly, if priced well. And supply of the Turbo Force has been very limited in Australia after the first initial stock sold out.

I ordered the flux in a mullet config. I’m pretty sure I’ve never had the correct bike for how I ride so I have no idea what to expect. I’ve bombed double blacks on a Costco special.

This will be my first bike with very high end components.

 

[slickrock]

...
Whilst I do love looking at geometry data. Nothing beats physically trying different configurations, and physically feeling the impact of each change.
...

The whole point of having complete and accurate geometry figures in all modes, as well as complete kinematics graphs is that it informs the purchasing decision a priori, especially when comparing to other bikes of similar ilk. Trying different configurations is a post hoc purchase exercise, shutting down other counterfactual bike choices, and possibly better ones at that.