Spare AXS battery mount. Let’s see your solutions.

[Natch]

I suppose a lot of people carry a spare battery in their pack or tool bag but I don’t always bring those things for my daily local rides. Twice last year other riders asked me at the trailhead if I'd swap batteries since theirs was dead and they wouldn't be able to shift or use their dropper without it.

Here’s my simple way to carry a spare AXS battery on the bike so I hopefully am never caught without a spare.

This is one of the compact batteries from the road/gravel SRAM lineup but the full size battery fits in there also. I used some double sided removable tape to mount the battery and the clip that came with it under the top tube right in the head tube junction it’s out of the way of the water bottle and mostly out of view

Let’s see your solutions.

 

[Stihldog]

I’ve used the AXS derailer and reverb dropper for 3 or 4+ years. Having two on the bike always gave me a solution if one lost power. But that has never happened to me. So I don’t carry a spare AXS battery.

I have a location in the bike cave for the chargers though. Since I ride almost every day I make sure I top them up(1-2 weeks) whenever I think of it. So far I’ve been lucky I guess.

My buddy carries a spare AXS battery for his derailer somewhere in his hip-pac.

 

[Fangs2k]

Running a couple of bikes with AXS and the rest without, making sure the AXS battery is swapped out for a fresh one before a ride is jus one of the things I do alongside checking fork, shock and tyre pressures, and also the bike traction battery charge state etc.

I have one of these cheap AXS battery gauges to check the battery charge state.

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Whilst carrying a spare is fairly easy, you still need to check that it too is still charged prior to any ride.

I keep meaning to hardwire mine in, but just haven’t ever got around to it. I’m less and less bothered about powered mechs and dropper posts to be honest, cables are good and fuss free.

 

[Stihldog]

I suppose I’m committed to the SRAM axs system for the dropper and derailer.…but not Flight Attendant.
When I dropped the Bosch motor for the first time, and saw the rats-nest of cables and wires in the motor compartment, I wanted to simplify and improve that. The AXS reverb dropper and AXS derailer helped do that.

It also cleaned up the cockpit. The paddle controllers were my preference rather than the pod controllers. The cp32 coin sized battery last a long time (almost 2 years). The speed and reliability of the Bluetooth signal was very good.

The T-Type derailer on my Fuel EXE is hard-wired …and that works good. The SRAM derailer and cassette and chain is amazingly quiet, smooth and operates nicely under crank torque. That makes those climbing technical moments a little easier.

However, if I rode on different terrain, or had a different style of riding, an AXS system wouldn’t be necessary for me. Maintenance becomes a little easier also.

 

[Natch]

Running a couple of bikes with AXS and the rest without, making sure the AXS battery is swapped out for a fresh one before a ride is jus one of the things I do alongside checking fork, shock and tyre pressures, and also the bike traction battery charge state etc.

I have one of these cheap AXS battery gauges to check the battery charge state.

Whilst carrying a spare is fairly easy, you still need to check that it too is still charged prior to any ride.

I keep meaning to hardwire mine in, but just haven’t ever got around to it. I’m less and less bothered about powered mechs and dropper posts to be honest, cables are good and fuss free.

Oh, totally. I have a routine where I swap out all of my batteries every Sunday. That way, I don't really need to worry about charge on my usual local rides. I like the idea of carrying a spare in case somebody else needs it so that it doesn't ruin their (i.e., my) bike ride. Also, sometimes when you drive a long distance to a trail network, the battery in the derailleur will drain faster than normal because it's activated the entire distance. Better to be prepared than to be sorry.

 

[Natch]

I’m still undecided about going with a fully integrated setup for shifting and dropper electronics. On one hand, it would be nice not to worry about separate batteries for each component and just let the main battery power everything. On the other hand, if that main battery dies mid-ride, you lose control of everything at once. I’ve had my main battery run out before on a long ride, and the last five miles back to the car were tough—but thankfully, my shifter and dropper were still functional.

 

[Stihldog]

Oh, totally. I have a routine where I swap out all of my batteries every Sunday. That way, I don't really need to worry about charge on my usual local rides. I like the idea of carrying a spare in case somebody else needs it so that it doesn't ruin their (i.e., my) bike ride. Also, sometimes when you drive a long distance to a trail network, the battery in the derailleur will drain faster than normal because it's activated the entire distance. Better to be prepared than to be sorry.

Yes I can see that happening. Both the axs derailer and reverb dropper turn on with a slight movement or vibration. Which means the battery is active during transporting. …causing more battery drain.

Not a problem for me though because the bike lives in the maintenance stand or I ride directly to the trailhead. No vehicle bike rack. But if/when I rack the bikes for a trip, I remove those batteries.

 

[Natch]

Yes I can see that happening. Both the axs derailer and reverb dropper turn on with a slight movement or vibration. Which means the battery is active during transporting. …causing more battery drain.

Not a problem for me though because the bike lives in the maintenance stand or I ride directly to the trailhead. No vehicle bike rack. But if/when I rack the bikes for a trip, I remove those batteries.

I routinely drive 2 to 3 hours away for day trips and it’s weird, sometimes that amount of driving drains my batteries and sometimes it doesn’t. I don’t really know why there’s a difference.

 

[Durrti]

I routinely drive 2 to 3 hours away for day trips and it’s weird, sometimes that amount of driving drains my batteries and sometimes it doesn’t. I don’t really know why there’s a difference.

The shaking of the components keeps them “awake.” I’d recommend removing the batteries for long drives.

 

[Fangs2k]

I routinely drive 2 to 3 hours away for day trips and it’s weird, sometimes that amount of driving drains my batteries and sometimes it doesn’t. I don’t really know why there’s a difference.

It’s the mystery and allure of AXS!

I take my batteries out of the mech or dropper for long journeys, in fact I take them out when I know I’m not going to be riding a particular bike again for a while.

 

[Fangs2k]

Maintenance becomes a little easier also.

Indeed, I once purchased an AXS dropper post because I didn’t fancy routing a cable through the frame!

 

[Durrti]

I personally just make sure all lights are green before I go. I do carry a spare battery in my pack, but have yet to need it. I rotate my battery locations as well.

 

[KillerbeeDH]

I routinely drive 2 to 3 hours away for day trips and it’s weird, sometimes that amount of driving drains my batteries and sometimes it doesn’t. I don’t really know why there’s a difference.

It is motion activated. If your battery was at half charge when you left, it will be DOA. If fully charged, you will still have a charge. Regradless, you have to pull the battery to travel, or carry a spare in your pack or pocket.

Incidentally, Shimano has new DI2 that competes head to head now, and the derailleur is not motion activated. Problem solved. They addressed several other weaknesses of AXS also.

 

[KillerbeeDH]

Everybody has a pack or small saddle bag. Mine goes in the saddle bag with my multitool, plugs and sealant. Put a charged spare in a sealed plastic bag, and stuff it in there. There are also steer tube storage solutions. It may fit in one of those.

 

[Natch]

Everybody has a pack or small saddle bag. Mine goes in the saddle bag with my multitool, plugs and sealant. Put a charged spare in a sealed plastic bag, and stuff it in there. There are also steer tube storage solutions. It may fit in one of those.

I prefer not to use a pack or bag so I stash everything I need on my bikes. The exception is when I plan a ride longer than three hours where I would need more water, or if I’m visiting an unfamiliar area and want extra gear.

 

[KillerbeeDH]

I prefer not to use a pack or bag so I stash everything I need on my bikes. The exception is when I plan a ride longer than three hours where I would need more water, or if I’m visiting an unfamiliar area and want extra gear.

That would be living on borrowed time here in the dessert.

 

[Natch]

That would be living on borrowed time here in the dessert.

Definitely do what works best for you and your situation.

 

[VWsurfbum]

SRAM AXS Battery Mount for Zee Cage II - Leap Components

Battery Mount for Specialized Zee Cage II. Waterproof, with build in missinglink storage, battery indicator, valve core tool. Optional: Airtag holder.

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Or

SRAM AXS Stick On Battery Mount - Leap Components

AXS Battery 3M Stick On Mount. Waterproof, with build in missinglink storage, battery indicator, valve core tool. Optional: Airtag holder.

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Or

SRAM AXS Battery Saddle Mount - Leap Components

Waterproof 3D-printed Sram AXS Battery Saddle Mount with build in missinglink storage, battery indicator, valve core tool. Optional: Airtag holder.

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[sethimus]