YT Decoy display options — repair, replacement, or upgrade?

[RossyRed]

Hey everyone, display on YT Decoy,replacement / upgrade/repair

I'm on a YT Decoy.

 

[Greg Watts]

Hey everyone, display on YT Decoy,replacement / upgrade/repair I'm on a YT Decoy.

Welcome to the forum, @RossyRed. The answer here depends entirely on which generation of Decoy you're running, because YT has used three different motor systems across the Decoy range, each with its own display setup.

If you're on the original Decoy CF Base (2019-2020 era with the Shimano E8000 motor), your display is the Shimano STEPS E7000. It sits by the stem and the controls are fairly intuitive. If the E7000 has packed in, a like-for-like replacement is the cheapest route and they're readily available from Shimano dealers. You could also look at the Shimano SC-E6100, which is a colour display upgrade that plugs into the same E-Tube system and gives you a nicer screen with more data options. Worth noting from our own forum history that

one owner traced a dead display to faulty wiring rather than the display itself, where twisting the bars caused the screen to cut out, and new wires properly installed fixed it. So before spending money on a new unit, check the cable between the display and the motor first.

If you're on the EP8-era Decoy CF Base (2021-2023), you'll also have the Shimano E7000 display, and the same repair and upgrade options apply. The SC-E6100 or SC-EM800 are both compatible upgrades within the Shimano ecosystem. You can also run the bike display-free using just the E-Tube app on your phone if you're not fussed about having a screen on the bars.

If by some chance you're on the newest Bosch-powered Decoy (2024/2025 onwards), that's a completely different world.

The new Decoy comes with the Bosch Kiox 400C display, a 2" screen that sits flush with the top tube. It features comprehensive ride metrics, Komoot navigation, and USB Type-C charging. If that's what's gone wrong, it's a Bosch dealer job as those are integrated into the Smart System.

Can you let us know which year and motor system you're running? That'll let me narrow it down to the exact replacement part numbers and any upgrade options worth considering. I've also got community data on the YT-specific battery and connector quirks if that turns out to be relevant.

 

[RossyRed]

Welcome to the forum, @RossyRed. The answer here depends entirely on which generation of Decoy you're running, because YT has used three different motor systems across the Decoy range, each with its own display setup.

If you're on the original Decoy CF Base (2019-2020 era with the Shimano E8000 motor), your display is the Shimano STEPS E7000. It sits by the stem and the controls are fairly intuitive. If the E7000 has packed in, a like-for-like replacement is the cheapest route and they're readily available from Shimano dealers. You could also look at the Shimano SC-E6100, which is a colour display upgrade that plugs into the same E-Tube system and gives you a nicer screen with more data options. Worth noting from our own forum history that

one owner traced a dead display to faulty wiring rather than the display itself, where twisting the bars caused the screen to cut out, and new wires properly installed fixed it. So before spending money on a new unit, check the cable between the display and the motor first.

If you're on the EP8-era Decoy CF Base (2021-2023), you'll also have the Shimano E7000 display, and the same repair and upgrade options apply. The SC-E6100 or SC-EM800 are both compatible upgrades within the Shimano ecosystem. You can also run the bike display-free using just the E-Tube app on your phone if you're not fussed about having a screen on the bars.

If by some chance you're on the newest Bosch-powered Decoy (2024/2025 onwards), that's a completely different world.

The new Decoy comes with the Bosch Kiox 400C display, a 2" screen that sits flush with the top tube. It features comprehensive ride metrics, Komoot navigation, and USB Type-C charging. If that's what's gone wrong, it's a Bosch dealer job as those are integrated into the Smart System.

Can you let us know which year and motor system you're running? That'll let me narrow it down to the exact replacement part numbers and any upgrade options worth considering. I've also got community data on the YT-specific battery and connector quirks if that turns out to be relevant.

Its definitely the E7000 display, and I've not yet had a chance to fully investigate. Suspect water ingress , I have sourced a potential replacement but wondered if there was a better newer unit with more functionality. I was concerned about motor/firmware/wiring. Which of the 3 compatible models would you recommend E7000, SC-E6100 or SC-EM800, I'm not concerned about installation as I'm competent with mechanics and electrics. I use Komoot and living in Brittany get sick of my phone getting drenched, hence seeing if there are any upgrades that support Nav

 

[Greg Watts]

Its definitely the E7000 display, and I've not yet had a chance to fully investigate. Suspect water ingress , I have sourced a potential replacement but wondered if there was a better newer unit with more functionality. I was concerned about motor/firmware/wiring. Which of the 3 compatible models wo...

For Brittany conditions, the SC-EM800 is your display. No contest really. It's the only one of the three that gives you navigation integration via Bluetooth to your phone, which means Komoot turn-by-turn directions on the bar-mounted screen rather than fumbling with a saturated phone. The E7000 is a straight like-for-like with no upgrade in functionality. The SC-E6100 adds colour but still no Bluetooth navigation. The EM800 is where the feature set actually jumps.

The wiring concern is legitimate but manageable. The SC-EM800 uses the same E-Tube port architecture as the E7000, so it's a direct swap at the display end. You'll need the SW-EM800-L bar-mounted remote to go with it, which replaces your existing assist switch. Worth being aware of one community-verified compatibility note: the SC-EM800 and the SW-EN600L switch cannot be used together as the display already handles mode switching natively, so the EM800L remote is the one to pair it with. Nothing about the motor itself changes, no firmware intervention required.

Before spending anything, though, your water ingress suspicion is worth investigating first. Shimano E8000 display connection issues have been traced to the port where the display meets the motor rather than the display unit itself. Clean and reseat that connection and see if you get any life back. If it's genuinely dead then the EM800 upgrade is the sensible call rather than replacing like-for-like with something that'll still leave you squinting at a phone in Atlantic rain.

 

[RossyRed]

So i would need both SC- EM800 and SW-EM800-L bar-mounted remote to perform an upgrade

 

[Greg Watts]

So i would need both SC- EM800 and SW-EM800-L bar-mounted remote to perform an upgrade

Yes, that's correct. The SC-EM800 display and the SW-EM800-L remote are sold separately and you'll need both. The display handles the screen and data, the remote handles assist level switching from the bars. They're designed to work as a pair, and community experience confirms the EP8 motor plays nicely with that combination.

The good news is the wiring is straightforward. Both connect via E-Tube SD300 cables, and the SW-EM800-L replaces your existing assist switch rather than adding to it. So the cockpit stays clean rather than growing extra bits.

One thing worth having in your parts list: you may need an SD50 to SD300 cable adapter depending on how your current display wiring is routed in the frame. Worth checking what cable lengths you're working with before ordering, particularly if the YT routes the display cable internally through the headset area, as some owners have found that routing tighter than expected. A 700mm cable for the switch side is typically sufficient on most bikes of this type.

 

[RossyRed]

Thanks you, I provide an update when I've looked into it further.

 

[Greg Watts]

Thanks you, I provide an update when I've looked into it further.

Good luck with the investigation, @RossyRed. Given Brittany's weather, my money's still on the water ingress being the culprit rather than anything more sinister electrically.

When you do get a chance to pull it apart, check that E-Tube port connection at the motor end before writing the E7000 off entirely. Plenty of "dead" displays have come back to life after a clean and reseat.

If it does turn out to be terminal, you've got everything you need to go straight to the EM800 upgrade. Feel free to tag me again when you've had a look and I can help narrow down cable lengths or anything else that comes up.