Bosch CX gen mainboard

beemergb

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Anybody know the parts number for the Bosch CX gen 4 mainboard , and price please ? It appears it does not like running underwater , after I fell off after getting to close to the edge of the fast running river when rideing up a mounting side thanks Harry
 
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Bosch won't sell internal motor parts. Also, you can't use a mainboard from another motor (same model) because of calibration for rotor position, unless you also transplant the rotor from the donor motor.
 
Bosch won't sell internal motor parts. Also, you can't use a mainboard from another motor (same model) because of calibration for rotor position, unless you also transplant the rotor from the donor motor.
Wow ! Looks like I will change my brand !Seems like the problem is with the transfer gears not the board ! The spline inside this gear has worn away !

IMG_2416.jpg IMG_2417.jpg IMG_2418.jpg
 
Anybody know the parts number for the Bosch CX gen 4 mainboard , and price please ? It appears it does not like running underwater , after I fell off after getting to close to the edge of the fast running river when rideing up a mounting side thanks Harry
You’ve taken your motor repair farther than I have. If you’re cpu hasn’t been affected by water damage then there’s still a chance. The motor repair centre (eBike Motor Repairs & Servicing - Homepage) may be able to help.

I’ve had the Bosch CX Gen4 motor since new (2020 Rail) , submerged several times, ride all types of weather, wash carefully, many klms (20K?). Maybe I’m lucky.

I started installing a bearing seal kit as a preventative measure each year. Fairly cheap ($15). I had my motor serviced last year by CycloChrome in Hull Quebec. It may not of needed a complete overhaul …but I thought it was due.
 
You’ve taken your motor repair farther than I have. If you’re cpu hasn’t been affected by water damage then there’s still a chance. The motor repair centre (eBike Motor Repairs & Servicing - Homepage) may be able to help.

I’ve had the Bosch CX Gen4 motor since new (2020 Rail) , submerged several times, ride all types of weather, wash carefully, many klms (20K?). Maybe I’m lucky.

I started installing a bearing seal kit as a preventative measure each year. Fairly cheap ($15). I had my motor serviced last year by CycloChrome in Hull Quebec. It may not of needed a complete overhaul …but I thought it was due.
Thank for the info ! It turns out it was not the board at all ! It was one of the transfer gears ,that had been unable to keep tight in the bore the spindle that was in it was splined at the end and was just pushed in and it spun loosing all grip , very bad engineering .Light turning in the lathe to the timing wheel put an slight angle in it and weld it up ! Job done
 
Thank for the info ! It turns out it was not the board at all ! It was one of the transfer gears ,that had been unable to keep tight in the bore the spindle that was in it was splined at the end and was just pushed in and it spun loosing all grip , very bad engineering .Light turning in the lathe to the timing wheel put an slight angle in it and weld it up ! Job done
Thank goodness it wasn’t the board, and thank goodness you were able to turn some repairs with the lathe.

I’ve only removed the drive-side casing for minor repairs, failed brackets, re-torque, and added some grease. That’s about the extent of my curiosity.

Bracket mounts and castle nuts are very important. I have spare castle nuts.😉
 
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Thank goodness it wasn’t the board, and thank goodness you were able to turn some repairs with the lathe.

I’ve only removed the drive-side casing for minor repairs, failed brackets, re-torque, and added some grease. That’s about the extent of my curiosity.

Bracket mounts and castle nuts are very important. I have spare castle nuts.😉
I was going to suggest that you get the mig welder out, but your already ahead of me.
The problem you have asking questions like yours is that most people on this site can't take the bloody valve caps off without asking what way to turn it!
Merry Christmas 🧑‍🎄
 
I was going to suggest that you get the mig welder out, but your already ahead of me.
The problem you have asking questions like yours is that most people on this site can't take the bloody valve caps off without asking what way to turn it!
Merry Christmas 🧑‍🎄
Easy Bear 🐻, 😉

I’ve only recently perfected the art of not spilling any tire sealant. There was a learning curve. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
Thank goodness it wasn’t the board, and thank goodness you were able to turn some repairs with the lathe.

I’ve only removed the drive-side casing for minor repairs, failed brackets, re-torque, and added some grease. That’s about the extent of my curiosity.

Bracket mounts and castle nuts are very important. I have spare castle nuts.😉
Castle nuts ? I dont seem to have them on my CX gen 4 motor ! WhatI have done is binned those stupid Bosch special screws with the pin in the middel of the screw !! Put old fashioned allen screws in stainless steel ! Job done !
 
Castle nuts ? I dont seem to have them on my CX gen 4 motor ! WhatI have done is binned those stupid Bosch special screws with the pin in the middel of the screw !! Put old fashioned allen screws in stainless steel ! Job done !
Security bolts. I had to buy an entire set of sockets just to get one that fits. Ffs. 🤦‍♂️

The castle nut, or spider nut, (fine reverse thread) hold the chainring on. You probably know that. The latest bulletin has suggested that the nut be replaced each time with a new one and the torque be increased to 30-35nm.
 
Thank for the info ! It turns out it was not the board at all ! It was one of the transfer gears ,that had been unable to keep tight in the bore the spindle that was in it was splined at the end and was just pushed in and it spun loosing all grip , very bad engineering .Light turning in the lathe to the timing wheel put an slight angle in it and weld it up ! Job done
@beemergb Do you have pictures of the gear with the slight angle after the lathe and spindle + gear after the welding?
 
Valve caps?
Don’t try to repair cracked or broken plastic valve caps with crazy glue …very low success rate.
I use Filmore air valves which have a metal valve cap. Most importantly, the valve must be positioned in the centre of the tire emblem. (Between the XX on Maxxis tires. 👍🏻😉
 
There is no universal part number available for this part yet. Just ask Ebike Doktor for a pressed transfer gear for the Bosch Gen 4 and he will know what you mean.
 
I can offer it for 50 euros. I don't know if the price is appropriate, but if necessary, you can write in Telegram @sttvstt
 
For some reason, I haven't encountered such a problem on the spur gear version of the engine. And on the newer ones it has happened several times. I wanted to make a key, but it's difficult for my tool to process hardened metal in such a space
 
Hi there , Im about to get the gear Tig spot welded on the shaft , after gringing an angle inside the hole to give the weld a chance to hold it all together properly . Will get back to you when its all together !

4 b.jpg 4.jpg
 
One guy from Ukraine has already done it by installing 3 keys. It works. But you have to be careful. With a 90 percent chance you will lose engine performance by knocking down the factory calibration. Just my opinion
 
One guy from Ukraine has already done it by installing 3 keys. It works. But you have to be careful. With a 90 percent chance you will lose engine performance by knocking down the factory calibration. Just my opinion
I dont think there are any positions when installing the drive wheel on the shaft , any way is worth a try and cheaper 1
 
The relative position adjustment does not play a role, because there is a one way bearing after it. There is magnetic shaft. positioning.
 
The relative position adjustment does not play a role, because there is a one way bearing after it. There is magnetic shaft. positioning.

“Magnetic shaft” positioning has nothing to do with the part above. That’s only a transfer gear. When repairing this part, position of the geared shaft, relative to the gear does not matter. Centering / alignment is important!

Maybe your’re talking about the circular magnet on the electric rotor shaft that’s used to determine the rotor position accurately for a proper commutation.
 
“Magnetic shaft” positioning has nothing to do with the part above. That’s only a transfer gear. When repairing this part, position of the geared shaft, relative to the gear does not matter. Centering / alignment is important!

Maybe your’re talking about the circular magnet on the electric rotor shaft that’s used to determine the rotor position accurately for a proper commutation.
Yes. That's why. It's very delicate. So much so that while you're repairing the gears, you'll damage the settings.
 
Yes. That's why. It's very delicate. So much so that while you're repairing the gears, you'll damage the settings.
It's not possible to alter the calibration of the motors angle magnet unless it is physically removed and re-fitted in a different position. This magnet is not affected by changing the gears or their bearings. However, the motors overall magnetism can easily be affected and this is what causes issues when the motor is re-assembled and brings up a 510 error code.
 
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