Rim tape

Toomba

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2022
Messages
19
Reaction score
6
Location
Yamahar1
Needing to tape up the rims on
My 2022 TM with Newman 30 wheels
What size of tape do I need?
Thanks
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
32mm will be perfect. I like Tesa but any will make will be fine
 
Needing to tape up the rims on
My 2022 TM with Newman 30 wheels
What size of tape do I need?
Thanks
For my 30mm wide rims…I use 30mm wide rim tape. For my 35mm wide rims …I use 35mm wide rim tape.
The bead of the tire slides nicely over the tape.

Use a soft cloth to set the tape into the valley of the rim as you slightly stretch and align the tape. Overlap by 3” on either side of the air valve hole.

Use a heated awl to melt a hole for the air valve.
 
For my 30mm wide rims…I use 30mm wide rim tape. For my 35mm wide rims …I use 35mm wide rim tape.
The bead of the tire slides nicely over the tape.

Use a soft cloth to set the tape into the valley of the rim as you slightly stretch and align the tape. Overlap by 3” on either side of the air valve hole.

Use a heated awl to melt a hole for the air valve.
I overlap on the opposite side to the valve hole. Rebel me. ;)
 
Whatever you do do not use Gorilla Tape! :eek:

I am only posting on this thread in the hope that it will help to avoid someone else succumbing to the advice to use Gorilla tape as rim tape.

Gorilla tape was recommended to me by a mechanic at the Sherwood Pines bike shop. "We use it all the time, wonderful stuff".

It is cheap, easy to put on, works very well first time. And if you get the black tape, it looks like carbon fibre. The problem occurs when you need to remove it. You may find that your tyres have been glued to the rim, and even when you get the tyres off, you still need to remove the old very sticky and claggy Gorilla tape, yet another problem.

The full account of the Gorilla tape removal saga is here:
Removing Gorilla tape residue from wheel rims

But here is a pic to give you an idea. By the way these shots are AFTER two experienced bike mechanics took several hours, spread over two days, to get the tyre off the rim!

Sticky rim 2.jpg
 
I overlap on the opposite side to the valve hole. Rebel me. ;)
Wow! I learn something new everyday. Thanks 😊.

After the overlap (critical) I angle cut the ends, or taper cut with a pair of scissors (the kind that you can run with), and I keep a pair of both metric and imperial adjustable wrenches close by(what I was told).
IMG_0932.jpeg
Anyways, a local bike mechanic showed me a technique that might include some yoga moves. 🤷🏼‍♂️. Probably posted on YouTube.
 
Whatever you do do not use Gorilla Tape! :eek:

I am only posting on this thread in the hope that it will help to avoid someone else succumbing to the advice to use Gorilla tape as rim tape.

Gorilla tape was recommended to me by a mechanic at the Sherwood Pines bike shop. "We use it all the time, wonderful stuff".

It is cheap, easy to put on, works very well first time. And if you get the black tape, it looks like carbon fibre. The problem occurs when you need to remove it. You may find that your tyres have been glued to the rim, and even when you get the tyres off, you still need to remove the old very sticky and claggy Gorilla tape, yet another problem.

The full account of the Gorilla tape removal saga is here:
Removing Gorilla tape residue from wheel rims

But here is a pic to give you an idea. By the way these shots are AFTER two experienced bike mechanics took several hours, spread over two days, to get the tyre off the rim!

View attachment 173005
nothing a bit of petrol, set fire and some good scrubbing will not cure , alternatively never use the stuff in the first place as Steve said . keep away from wheels :)
 
I like to clean the section I'm about to tape with alcohol and then heat up the section of rim with my heat gun. It makes the tape stick really well.

FYI, I've had great luck with WTB tape.
 
Generally, it is recommended to use tape a bit wider than the inner width. (Often, the recommendation is 3-5mm) If you have a deep channel, that can take up some extra tape, as it's a curved surface. Also, the point where the tire presses against the tape, it's a slightly better seal, compared to tire against rim material. If you have any kind of gap between the tape and the rim sidewall, that point can be a place where air can slowly leak out. If the rim is hookless, this seems to be a little more of an issue.
 
I am using 30mm kapton tape. Two layers with about 2 spoke overlap. Not the strongest but does the job and is dirt cheap.
 
I use Muc off tape. For a 30mm internal width rim they recommend 35mm. Then again their tape width options go straight from 30mm to 35mm so no +1-3 mm option!! I also think there may be some variance in just how deep and wide the spoke hole channel is on different rims. All my rims are DT Swiss HX1700 Hybrid.
 
Dt Swiss recommends something else, 32 mm

Look at 0:30 :

Their tape is good quality and lasts a long time, so I don't understand why people look for rubbish solutions for something that has already been invented. :sneaky:
 
Dt Swiss recommends something else, 32 mm

Look at 0:30 :

Their tape is good quality and lasts a long time, so I don't understand why people look for rubbish solutions for something that has already been invented. :sneaky:
I don’t know what the best rim tape is, but I won’t use Gorilla tape. I try to use the correct width (30mm tape for a 30mm rim). If I need a double width (ie. 35mm rim) I don’t tape the side of the rim wall. I overlap in the rim valley. The bead of the tire holds the tape securely once it’s inflated. I remove any air bubbles or wrinkles. A cloth protects the tape from accidental cuts from your fingernails.

I lightly spray the walls of the tire with a soap/water solution. That makes the tire bead slide a little easier just before the “pop-pop”.

I don’t cut or puncture the air valve hole with scissors or a knife. I melt a hole with a heated awl.
 
Dt Swiss recommends something else, 32 mm

Look at 0:30 :

Their tape is good quality and lasts a long time, so I don't understand why people look for rubbish solutions for something that has already been invented. :sneaky:
Yeah, duct tape doesn't make much sense. The only thing I'd change about this video is a modification for translucent tape. When you go to punch a hole in it, go in from the hub side - at least to get that initial mark in the tape! If you poke in from the outside, you may miss the valve hole. I saw a Syd and Macky video where she did that and had to retape the wheel.
 
Gorilla tape is fine provided you don't try to remove it by ripping it off at a hundred miles an hour. That way it leaves the adhesive behind as you discovered. Learn a little patience, peel it off slowly & it comes away easily. It's still not the right stuff as it's comparatively heavy & over done with adhesive but it comes with the advantage of being cheap & can be easily split along its length to the exact width required. I would happily use it in a bind.
 
Job Done
Used Peatys 32mm tape and sealant.
Rear is loosing a bit pressure overnight but hopefully seals ok
Thanks for all the advice
 
I bought a roll of this a couple of years ago from a stationary company we use at work.
It's meant to be the product that "Stan's" uses be honest they look identical.
The amount you get on a roll compared to the cost of repeatable makes Is loads more :)

 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    669K
    Messages
    40,898
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top