Anyone tried Magura Gustav Pro?

[RJUK]

Thats really odd.
Those rotors are beefy for sure! Have you got another set you could try?

I could put the SRAM 200mm rotors back on, but I wouldn't really want to run them. The brakes ought to work with the rotors they came with!

Also, I think the pads had loads of room when I put the wheel in, but pulling the lever a few times brought them in and now they drag the disc. What would stop the same form happening with a thinner rotor? Surely the pads will just end up pushing in again and stay rubbing?

 

[VWsurfbum]

I could put the SRAM 200mm rotors back on, but I wouldn't really want to run them. The brakes ought to work with the rotors they came with!

Also, I think the pads had loads of room when I put the wheel in, but pulling the lever a few times brought them in and now they drag the disc. What would stop the same form happening with a thinner rotor? Surely the pads will just end up pushing in again and stay rubbing?

All hydraulic brakes work the same; the seals in the pistons/vacuum bring the pistons back in. But from your pictures, it doesn't look like there's any space for the pads/pistons to go back any further?

 

[RJUK]

All hydraulic brakes work the same; the seals in the pistons/vacuum bring the pistons back in. But from your pictures, it doesn't look like there's any space for the pads/pistons to go back any further?

I think there is. When the wheel went in, there was loads of room and the disc slotted in easy. But the lever went to the bar. A few pumps brought the lever pressure up, but now the pads sit against the rotor the whole time.

I wonder if using one of those alignment tool things that you slip between the pads would work, but then what stops the pads just moving closer again?!

 

[RickBullotta]

I think there is. When the wheel went in, there was loads of room and the disc slotted in easy. But the lever went to the bar. A few pumps brought the lever pressure up, but now the pads sit against the rotor the whole time.

I wonder if using one of those alignment tool things that you slip between the pads would work, but then what stops the pads just moving closer again?!

Call Magura's tech support team - they're usually super helpful.

 

[RJUK]

Call Magura's tech support team - they're usually super helpful.

Thanks, I've emailed Magura a few timesal about different things and found them not very helpful. Hopefully their tech support is better.

 

[Eckythump]

Anyone have a source for shift mix adapters for the Gustav Pro?

Anyone have a source for shift mix adapters for the Gustav Pro?

Total Bleed Solutions is where I found them.

 

[RM.SGO]

Well mine are coming off. Fought with a bleed on the rear for far too long this weekend and still was spongy. Tired of settling for the poor integration with AXS shifter. Going to try the new EVO Pros.

 

[paul.williams_1981@yahoo.]

My brake lever pulled straight to the bar on the second decent and were not feeling great on the first.

Also squealing loud not a good impression.

 

[smc_stefan]

Ok, so as the SRAM Shiftmix adapters were finally available, I pulled the trigger on set of Gustavs this week.
To be sure to have a good comparison to my outgoing SRAM Code RSC, I did a last ride with them on Monday, installed the Gustav on Tuesday and did two test rides with the Gustav on Wednesday and today.

Short:
All in all I'm fully satisfied today after the second ride.

Long:
I took my time and beer for the installation and was able to finish it within two hours, the front brake was perfect from factory, the rear needed some bleeding after I installed it, as the lever travel was a little too long for my taste. Installation process is super easy.

The first ride was so so, I liked the lever feel and the modulation but expected more initial braking power, but it was ok for me as the brakes were just in their bedding-in phase.

The second ride today was just perfect. Lots lots of braking power combined with excellent modulation, especially when you're already braking on the edge of blocking the wheel on a downhill trail, there's still a window where you can precisely modulate the brake, absolutely fantastic. My old RSCs could not do that.
They showed to be absolutely bombproof on long descents, no lever travel, no spongy lever, just constant braking power and feel, no squealing.

I took my time to align them twice, first initially after installment, the second time after the first ride. No squealing, no stupid noises but I still didn't manage to get them aligned 100% without a little grind of the pads on the rotors, I'm at maybe 98%, that might be still a Magura thing, but that's good enough for me as I use them on my Levo and not on a XC race bike.

So how are they (fully stock) compared to my old RSCs (with the upgraded 220 front rotor and purple Galfer pads)?
- more braking power
- more constant braking power on long descents
- better lever feeling
- more constant lever feel
- much better modulation without beeing spongy
- personally I have no issues with the levers being rather far away from the handlebar, as I have XL/XXL glove size hands

What I hated the most on my RSCs was, that I had to bleed them every 2 - 3 months, otherwise they would turn into squishy brakes with a spongy lever feel. I hope those times are gone as well.

So far I can't complain, I'm happy with what I bought and hope they will perform like today for a long time to come. Of course I will try some other pads and maybe rotors or levers in the future, but just because I'm interested to do so, not because I have the feeling I would need to.

 

[RJUK]

Ok, so as the SRAM Shiftmix adapters were finally available, I pulled the trigger on set of Gustavs this week.
To be sure to have a good comparison to my outgoing SRAM Code RSC, I did a last ride with them on Monday, installed the Gustav on Tuesday and did two test rides with the Gustav on Wednesday and today.

Short:
All in all I'm fully satisfied today after the second ride.

Long:
I took my time and beer for the installation and was able to finish it within two hours, the front brake was perfect from factory, the rear needed some bleeding after I installed it, as the lever travel was a little too long for my taste. Installation process is super easy.

The first ride was so so, I liked the lever feel and the modulation but expected more initial braking power, but it was ok for me as the brakes were just in their bedding-in phase.

The second ride today was just perfect. Lots lots of braking power combined with excellent modulation, especially when you're already braking on the edge of blocking the wheel on a downhill trail, there's still a window where you can precisely modulate the brake, absolutely fantastic. My old RSCs could not do that.
They showed to be absolutely bombproof on long descents, no lever travel, no spongy lever, just constant braking power and feel, no squealing.

I took my time to align them twice, first initially after installment, the second time after the first ride. No squealing, no stupid noises but I still didn't manage to get them aligned 100% without a little grind of the pads on the rotors, I'm at maybe 98%, that might be still a Magura thing, but that's good enough for me as I use them on my Levo and not on a XC race bike.

So how are they (fully stock) compared to my old RSCs (with the upgraded 220 front rotor and purple Galfer pads)?
- more braking power
- more constant braking power on long descents
- better lever feeling
- more constant lever feel
- much better modulation without beeing spongy
- personally I have no issues with the levers being rather far away from the handlebar, as I have XL/XXL glove size hands

What I hated the most on my RSCs was, that I had to bleed them every 2 - 3 months, otherwise they would turn into squishy brakes with a spongy lever feel. I hope those times are gone as well.

So far I can't complain, I'm happy with what I bought and hope they will perform like today for a long time to come. Of course I will try some other pads and maybe rotors or levers in the future, but just because I'm interested to do so, not because I have the feeling I would need to.

Good to hear. Out of interest, how did you align them in the end? By eye?

I find that the old "squeeze the lever hard and then do the bolts up" never seems to work for me.

 

[smc_stefan]

That's exactly what I did.

 

[Hiltix]

Good to hear. Out of interest, how did you align them in the end? By eye?

I find that the old "squeeze the lever hard and then do the bolts up" never seems to work for me.

Yes true. If this method works, it's more by luck than anything else. The pistons never come out completely evenly.

I do it with the brake pads removed, the pistons pushed back, and then using a feeler gauge.

 

[RJUK]

Yes true. If this method works, it's more by luck than anything else. The pistons never come out completely evenly.

I do it with the brake pads removed, the pistons pushed back, and then using a feeler gauge.

I presume you mean you push the pistons back, re-insert the pads, then use a feeler gauge to space the pads fractionally away from the roots whilst you tighten down?

I have some of those things metal pad spacing tools, but I'm not sure if it fits in the caliper. I'll have a look.

You're right though - I did a piston massage on the Gustavs and even after pushing them in and out a bunch of times and lubricating the sides of the pistons with some Royal Blood, they still all moved out at different amounts.

I think that's pretty normal though. I'm not sure that any caliper moves all pistons perfectly in sync.

 

[Hiltix]

I presume you mean you push the pistons back, re-insert the pads, then use a feeler gauge to space the pads fractionally away from the roots whilst you tighten down?

I have some of those things metal pad spacing tools, but I'm not sure if it fits in the caliper. I'll have a look.

You're right though - I did a piston massage on the Gustavs and even after pushing them in and out a bunch of times and lubricating the sides of the pistons with some Royal Blood, they still all moved out at different amounts.

I think that's pretty normal though. I'm not sure that any caliper moves all pistons perfectly in sync.

I do it without the Pads inserted. But I think both is ok. Allways better and more accurate as "squeeze the lever hard..." method. Of course, it requires a bit more time. I then make sure that I have to dismantle the brake calipers as little as possible.

 

[Hiltix]

Is there anyone out there who has used Gustav and Maven? I'd be interested to hear which one you prefer and why.

 

[RJUK]

I do it without the Pads inserted. But I think both is ok. Allways better and more accurate as "squeeze the lever hard..." method. Of course, it requires a bit more time. I then make sure that I have to dismantle the brake calipers as little as possible.

Wouldn't doing that with the pads out move the pistons too close to the disc to get the pads back in? Or do you torque the caliper down and then push the pistons back in?

 

[RM.SGO]

Good to hear you're happy. I really liked everything about mine except the cockpit set up due to the unconventional reservoir design. Put on a set of TRP Evo Pros and fought to get pads bedded so as not to make excessive noise or turkey gobble. They kept glazing. In a pinch I pulled off the TRP rotors and calipers and tossed my Gustavs on (Traguras!). Spent full day on them yesterday and they work pretty damn good. Need to do another more careful bleed.

 

[RJUK]

Good to hear you're happy. I really liked everything about mine except the cockpit set up due to the unconventional reservoir design. Put on a set of TRP Evo Pros and fought to get pads bedded so as not to make excessive noise or turkey gobble. They kept glazing. In a pinch I pulled off the TRP rotors and calipers and tossed my Gustavs on (Traguras!). Spent full day on them yesterday and they work pretty damn good. Need to do another more careful bleed.

Are the TRPs mineral fluid then? I had in my head that they were DOT. Maybe I'm getting them mixed up with Hayes though.

 

[RM.SGO]

yes TRP runs mineral oil

 

[Nomad3000]

I’m sorry to hear that you’re having all those issues. I have my old Gustav levers I’m not using. Do you want to try a different lever and see if that’s the issue?

 

[RickBullotta]

I gotta say this is not a super encouraging thread...maybe I'll sell the Gustav Pros I currently have sitting in the box to install...hmmm....

 

[Nomad3000]

I have Maven levers with the Gustav calipers on mine and love them, they take a bit to get used to the easy lever pull but no arm pump at ALL down steep grades.

 

[paul.williams_1981@yahoo.]

Is there anyone out there who has used Gustav and Maven? I'd be interested to hear which one you prefer and why.

I have Gustav on my ebike and Maven on my analogue so not apples to apples.

I have to bleed the Gustav after first ride as the front lever was pulling to the bar also took a while to line up. They have been great since, really good modulation and power. Only issue i have for me is the lever reach as I like to have them set close to the bar.

Maven have been rock solid, got the limited red version on realise. Needed to bleed once since owning. Got them set up so the modulation is good then full on when needed. Feel much more powerful, but on an 8kg lighter bike.

Overall I prefer the feel and adjustment of the Mavens but that may change the more I ride the Gustavs.

 

[Nomad3000]

I gotta say this is not a super encouraging thread...maybe I'll sell the Gustav Pros I currently have sitting in the box to install...hmmm....

It depends what your looking for. I think these brakes are perfect for a heavy rider, or heavy bike and rider with large sized hands and want a good brake that your not going to smoke on steep grades. These calipers are Large! If you do the math, these have a slight size increase over Mavens when it comes to piston area and the rotors are freaking thick. If you’re looking for a brake that is a power upgrade from their MT7s, then this is not it. I had my other bike with sram codes and they felt the same power wise which was disappointing. I dropped $500 bucks on these and used them, it’s kinda hard to resell them after that. I felt like I had no choice but put more money in them to get them how I like. If I was going to do it all over again, I’d go with TRPs which have great reviews or Mavens for the power and save some cash. With new levers I’m in at $700, it’s not for everyone but when the smoke settles I feel like I have the Maven power with the Gustav robustness.

 

[Hiltix]

I have Gustav on my ebike and Maven on my analogue so not apples to apples.

I have to bleed the Gustav after first ride as the front lever was pulling to the bar also took a while to line up. They have been great since, really good modulation and power. Only issue i have for me is the lever reach as I like to have them set close to the bar.

Maven have been rock solid, got the limited red version on realise. Needed to bleed once since owning. Got them set up so the modulation is good then full on when needed. Feel much more powerful, but on an 8kg lighter bike.

Overall I prefer the feel and adjustment of the Mavens but that may change the more I ride the Gustavs.

"Thank you for your valuable feedback. In that sense, you’re right—I do tend to lean more toward the Maven. I'm moving away from the Magura MT7 because it loses too much braking power on long Alpine descents. May I also ask what size brake rotors you have on those bikes?"

 

[Nomad3000]

"Thank you for your valuable feedback. In that sense, you’re right—I do tend to lean more toward the Maven. I'm moving away from the Magura MT7 because it loses too much braking power on long Alpine descents. May I also ask what size brake rotors you have on those bikes?"

I’ve been running 200mm front and back on all my bikes if that helps

 

[Nomad3000]

I got a email from Oak Levers and they are working on an upgraded aluminum lever for these, that’s another option in the near future!!!

 

[RJUK]

I got a email from Oak Levers and they are working on an upgraded aluminum lever for these, that’s another option in the near future!!!

Good, but being Oak they will probably cost a fortune. Might be worth just waiting for the Magura ones.

 

[smc_stefan]

It depends what your looking for. I think these brakes are perfect for a heavy rider, or heavy bike and rider with large sized hands and want a good brake that your not going to smoke on steep grades. These calipers are Large! If you do the math, these have a slight size increase over Mavens when it comes to piston area and the rotors are freaking thick. If you’re looking for a brake that is a power upgrade from their MT7s, then this is not it. I had my other bike with sram codes and they felt the same power wise which was disappointing. I dropped $500 bucks on these and used them, it’s kinda hard to resell them after that. I felt like I had no choice but put more money in them to get them how I like. If I was going to do it all over again, I’d go with TRPs which have great reviews or Mavens for the power and save some cash. With new levers I’m in at $700, it’s not for everyone but when the smoke settles I feel like I have the Maven power with the Gustav robustness.

I'm exactly in that focus group
Heavy rider with big hands on a heavy bike doing lots of steep grades in my nearby little self shuttle trailpark.

After a few rides now, I can only confirm that the Gustav where the brakes I was looking for. My old Code RSCs are already in the bin.

 

[smc_stefan]

If anyone has issues doing a good full bleed:

Here's a an excellent instruction on how to bleed Maguras, I just skip the last part of removing the caliper from the frame to twist it, as the bleed port is in a better position on the Gustav compared to other Magura brakes.