You can buy 10 and 12 tooth pair as spares.
Problems with Shimano chain
- Thread starter sandspit
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #33
Yes, I took a closer look at the guide pulley engagement - it looks dead-on, not wanting to climb, or descend. Like you say: difficult to replicate on a stand, but appears that the derailleur is straight, and somewhat true. Thanks again for your input!
Emteebee
Member
The 6100 is a fast-wearing chain to my experience, the 8100 (XT) is slightly better yet still far far underperforming for its price. I run various chains on 3 e-bikes of which 1 eMTB. On Shimano cassettes/chainrings the best performer is the SRAM X01/XX1. Good alternatives are the Shimano LG500, or KMC E10, all of these have shown high longevity on my bikes. M6100/M7100/M8100 are all showing immediate wear within 100-200kms even on Silca hot melt wax. (I measure each of my chains with a digital KMC chain checker regularly.
Not really.
Shimano cassettes are hit and miss from factory as far as skipping under load. Usually it is a sign of a worn out cassette, but I have had one that skipped when new, but only after a shift, after 4 crank rotation it holds.
Normally a worn out cassette skips on the smallest 4 or 5 cogs.
Swapping chains does not help on a skipping cassette
as a very high mile rider in the roughest conditions, I have yet to have a shimano chain stretch past wear indicators on my Park tool. Usually the cassette skips so bad, and or the chain just starts snapping links. After 2 breaks I chuck Cassette and chain. On a side not even though the chain is one sided, I have noticed after some wear, that the chains direction as inside or outside facing effects shifting performance. I marked which side of the chain was the outside facing links.
I have been buying 8100 for 30 bucks ish, on ebay and amazon, I noticed is a slight difference, but i also switched to electronic shifting at same time which almost doubled chain life.
I do not see that, and I wax every two rides with Molten. 50-80 miles. I was getting 900 miles on a chain with a manual derailleur and when I switched to electronic it doubled the cassette and chain life.
I abuse this stuff, I ride 400 miles a month ish, 2800 miles this year so far, and 700,000 feet climbed in a year.
I dont switch chains, I replace as a pair. it generally does not help on a failing cassette, 1 cassette out of 7 has refused a second chain, my last chain broke to many times and cassette was shifting ok and not skipping, so the second chain worked out. Normally the second chain never helps.
I will say time of year and environment dictates more to chain life than anything else. Winter time is the worse, and I often have to wax every ride. We have sticky mud in places that causes chain suck on chainring. Which is why my last chain broke so many times.
Or some of the chains you are buying are not genuine......there are plenty of fake shimano chains and cassettes on the market that are no brand copies or even genuine factory rejects "highjacked" from the bin. Note...it is the chain that wears the cassette and there is no reason for even the lowest cost chain and cassette combo to skip if both are genuine and everything is adjusted correctly.
In my experience a chain properly maintained and with sympathetic gear change used , will last 400 to 600 miles or c800miles if it is a higher grade model with a hardened metal coating. A cassette should last 2 or maybe 3 new chains if the chains are changed at .05% wear..........Shimano or SRAM........with only SRAM T type AXS lasting any noticeable longer. .......albeit more expensive to change out..
In my experience a chain properly maintained and with sympathetic gear change used , will last 400 to 600 miles or c800miles if it is a higher grade model with a hardened metal coating. A cassette should last 2 or maybe 3 new chains if the chains are changed at .05% wear..........Shimano or SRAM........with only SRAM T type AXS lasting any noticeable longer. .......albeit more expensive to change out..
Never had a single chain that ever wore that much, before failure.
Im getting double to triple that, so I highly doubt im getting phony chains. Got a 210 lb buddy with 2000 miles on his chain and cassette, same bike.
Which brings up a point, different bikes with more and less torque will dictate different chain wear, just as much as a heavy or light rider
Maybe in a perfect world or a road chain.
Not a mountain bike chain, and definitely not an Ebike chain
I replace as needed, and there is no use replacing a chain that has not worn out of specs.
Chains on my road bike are hard to kill, ad cassette and chains are many thousands of miles with no real wear to show. Once you start beating on an Ebike riding as hard as they can be ridden, chain wear multiples exponentially. And Environment dictates the most.
Changed mine today 12 speed Sram . Got 800 miles out of it . That's since I got levo on 18th April . Been dry mostly but chain still gets filthy. I have taken more care with cleaning but not up to the standards I see on here. Jockey wheels get filthy they are a faff to clean insitu as is the chainring. Laziness probably a lot to do with it.
i dont know of you have electronic shifting, but that is how long mine would last with manual shifting. Its doubled with electronic shifting. But I am rough on it
No just ordinary shifting . I don't usually check miles to be honest. But I'm taking note of brake pads etc. Been drier than normal in my area this summer. Some dealers say run everything till it's done . Surprised it doubles with electronic but there you go.
I had no idea, but i put a lot of miles on them, about 100 miles a week at minimum. so your talking two months of riding if I was at 800.
important part is 2mm min thickness for a rotor, and using 220 front and rear. The bucklos pads at 3.60 a pair is unbeatable, ad a little softer than shimano so they dont tear up rotors as quick.
Never heard of bucklos. I have these new Maven brakes very impressive. I have used Hope brakes for past 15 years but these are as good. Bike only 3 months old .
Cheap chinese for ali express or temu. buying 10 pair at a time knocks price down 360-380 ish. they last about 2/3 the miles as stock shimano pads at 20 a pair.
I use sram Hs2 rotors at 2mm thick, and thicker than magura storms who quote 2mm. Ill be switching to 220 2.3 rotors shortly and cheap mt7 pads.
Ok 360 380 CAD I presume. Still on original Maven brake pads but I have cheep Aztek pads ready to test.
As long as they have a uniform thickness. What I found was no name pads had different thickness, so they were probably factory seconds. Bucklos had a uniform thickness, and the no name brands are probably bucklos or other brands rejects.
No idea if that applies to yours or not, just food for thought. cheap chinese stuff is fine, but you have to do your homework
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