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Derestrict Shimano EP801

Anybody have a good phone number for Shimano USA? This number doesn't get me anywhere; 800-423-2420
I cannot help because I am from Europe, but as written before already =>
...this process can easily become a little or bigger nightmare with a lot of frustration and waste of time. ;)
Maybe you should think twice and contact the guys from eMax-Tuning - they defintely will be able to solve the situation faster than if you will do it the "official way" via Shimano and/or the bike manufacturer.
 
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I cannot help because I am from Europe, but as written before already =>
...this process can easily become a little or bigger nightmare with a lot of frustration and waste of time. ;)
Maybe you should think twice and contact the guys from eMax-Tuning - they defintely will be able to solve the situation faster than if you will do it the "official way" via Shimano and/or the bike manufacturer.
I'm sure eMax can help but I don't want a 3rd-party solution. As a Shimano customer, I should only have to deal with them and their affiliates.
 
I'm sure eMax can help but I don't believe, nor desire a 3rd-party solution. As a Shimano customer, I should only have to deal with them and their affiliates.
That is absolutely correct and I can understand you completly and honestly.
I am crossing fingers that you will succeed in this "official way "and not get caught in the trap and this will not end up in an eternal nightmare like many Shimano customers in the same situation reported to eMax-Tuning in the past 8 years since the existence of eMax-Tuning...
And your "litte nightmare" already started in some kind by receiving a completly non-configured drive unit which is quite insane already...
If you will fail with the "offical way" or if you will be sick of it, at least you know where to write to then. ;)
I am quite curious on how this situation will end up and happy if you will post your "results" here in the forum - thanks.
BTW.: eMax-Tuning was "founded" already 8 years ago due to the lack of an appropriate customer support from Shimano and these guys who started eMax-Tuning suffered from similar situations like you currently do and so decided to do better and faster than Shimano...
If you don´t believe in the work of these guys, just search for "eMax" in this forum and most probably you will solely find posts of Shimano powered bike owners who are completely happy with their products and service.
 
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I called 3 times this week using that number and got to talk to someone

Lucky, I called twice today, no luck with the consumer option. The shop, where I've left the bike, also didn't have any luck, presumably on the dealer line. Hopefully they are on a retreat to come up with better customer service options.
 
and the enormous hassle of getting it changed to the USA speed limit.
It's not an enormous hassle. Just do it yourself. E-Max provide a detailed explanation how to do it. And you have direct contact to Peter of EMax through the German Pedelec Forum as well as through EMax. He is brilliant and super helpful. You just need a laptop, programming cable and 120 Euros. I have done this 3 times. Twice myself, and once for a friend.

The Shimano EP801 and EP600, are one of the easiest motors to change the speed limit on. Just not using the Shimano software, but the E-Max software. I literally run a Shimano Motor as a spare bike because of the ease of making configuration changes to all facets of the motor. The combined Motor and Electronic Transmission, is second to none. And so much cheaper than any alternative.

If it had the technology and peak power of the DJI Systems, I would never have bought a different motor system.
 
It's not an enormous hassle. Just do it yourself. E-Max provide a detailed explanation how to do it. And you have direct contact to Peter of EMax through the German Pedelec Forum as well as through EMax. He is brilliant and super helpful. You just need a laptop, programming cable and 120 Euros. I have done this 3 times. Twice myself, and once for a friend.

The Shimano EP801 and EP600, are one of the easiest motors to change the speed limit on. Just not using the Shimano software, but the E-Max software. I literally run a Shimano Motor as a spare bike because of the ease of making configuration changes to all facets of the motor. The combined Motor and Electronic Transmission, is second to none. And so much cheaper than any alternative.

If it had the technology and peak power of the DJI Systems, I would never have bought a different motor system.
My point is, the ease of configuration should come from Shimano. Not a 3rd party.
 
My point is, the ease of configuration should come from Shimano. Not a 3rd party.
Mate. I'm just thankful it can be done easily and cheaply. I really don't care who does it. 3rd Parties always tend to be far more helpful than OEMs in my experience. And I love that once I have the 3rd Party software and programming cable. I can do so many configuration changes myself, that normally requires a LBS to do.

Literally, without the 3rd Party software, I'd have to go to a LBS to go from a 36T chainring to a 34T chainring. Then if I didn't like the new chainring, I'd have to go back again to swap it back. OEM software is not going to let you into these settings, as, if you get it wrong, you can get a speed error that locks the motor.

But sure. It's your prerogative to insist the OEM and it's software does everything. But this means lots of trips and money spent at your LBS.
 
Mate. I'm just thankful it can be done easily and cheaply. I really don't care who does it. 3rd Parties always tend to be far more helpful than OEMs in my experience. And I love that once I have the 3rd Party software and programming cable. I can do so many configuration changes myself, that normally requires a LBS to do.

Literally, without the 3rd Party software, I'd have to go to a LBS to go from a 36T chainring to a 34T chainring. Then if I didn't like the new chainring, I'd have to go back again to swap it back. OEM software is not going to let you into these settings, as, if you get it wrong, you can get a speed error that locks the motor.

But sure. It's your prerogative to insist the OEM and it's software does everything. But this means lots of trips and money spent at your LBS.
I went from a 34T chainring to a 36T chainring and never changed any software settings.......Will my motor stop working and require a trip to my local bike shop?
 
Mate. I'm just thankful it can be done easily and cheaply. I really don't care who does it. 3rd Parties always tend to be far more helpful than OEMs in my experience. And I love that once I have the 3rd Party software and programming cable. I can do so many configuration changes myself, that normally requires a LBS to do.

Literally, without the 3rd Party software, I'd have to go to a LBS to go from a 36T chainring to a 34T chainring. Then if I didn't like the new chainring, I'd have to go back again to swap it back. OEM software is not going to let you into these settings, as, if you get it wrong, you can get a speed error that locks the motor.

But sure. It's your prerogative to insist the OEM and it's software does everything. But this means lots of trips and money spent at your LBS.

I get it for your use case. I just need it set and forget. The rest of the settings I’d be interested in changing are available in the phone or pc app.

Luckily there’s an awesome Shimano dealer nearby. They were able to get Shimano on the phone and address the issue in no time. Apparently, dealers don’t have the ability to change the destination and circumference settings either and required a phone call/remote session with Shimano.
 
I went from a 34T chainring to a 36T chainring and never changed any software settings.......Will my motor stop working and require a trip to my local bike shop?
That depends, but it easily may happen!
If your programmed drivetrain configuration (chainring size, number of gears, smallest sprocket and largest sprocket of your cassette) on a DU-EP600 or DU-EP801 based bike does not match the real values, you easily can catch an E295 error and after you have received 4 times an E925 error you will get the final E299 error which will completely lock your drive unit and you have to unlock it from the Shimano service centre and your bike will be out of warranty forever (also after unlocking from the Shimano service centre)!
Chances for these errors when the drivetrain configuration does not match are extremely high if you e.g. go uphill slowly in a very small gear, because then the tolerance band of the "antitunig" algrithm of the motor firmware is at its limits and beyond. Via this algoritm Shimano tries to identify some of these bloody oldschool electronic boxes (called "dongles" sometimes) which manipulate the signal from the speed sensor (and will not work at all on a DU-EP600 or DU-EP801 drive unit). So, never ever use such crap tools (like SpeedBox, MBIQ, BadAss, RedPad, PearTune as well as Planet3 „mechanical tuning“, etc.) on such a bike, because it will miserably fail.
So, some bikers who very often are using these extreme drivetrain settings may easily been hit by these fatal errors, some others who are using their drivetrain not in such extreme postitions may never get such errors. But there is a high risk and every biker with these new generation drive units from Shimano should be aware of this high risk and much better do a correction of the programmed values if there was a change in the drive train components done.

Especially if there is no "real" display mounted on the bike (and e.g. only the SW-EN600-L remote control unit mounted on the left hand side handle bar, like e.g. on many Orbea bikes) chances are very high that the biker will not realize that he already had an E295 (because this SW-EN600-L will just blink red) and then just restarts the bike (which will work with a E295) and then will realize that after 5 of these situations there is no more motor support at all because he finally has got the final fatal E299, which is the end of the sad story...

So, again: Don´t change components on the drivetrain without changing also the related settings!
Take care: A local bike shop CANNOT reset any final E295 - the bike (or drive unit) needs to be sent to a Shimano service centre and they don´t do this job for free normally. I know that some bike owners have paid up to 300€ for this reset process.

With a cable bound SM-PCE02 interface you can easily do the correct configuration of your new chainring size by yourself already in the licence key free (and so completely free of charge version) of the Windows based miniMax - program.
 
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That depends, but it easily may happen!
If your programmed drivetrain configuration (chainring size, number of gears, smallest sprocket and largest sprocket of your cassette) on a DU-EP600 or DU-EP801 based bike does not match the real values, you easily can catch an E295 error and after you have received 4 times an E925 error you will get the final E299 error which will completely lock your drive unit and you have to unlock it from the Shimano service centre and your bike will be out of warranty forever (also after unlocking from the Shimano service centre)!
Chances for these errors when the drivetrain configuration does not match are extremely high if you e.g. go uphill slowly in a very small gear, because then the tolerance band of the "antitunig" algrithm of the motor firmware is at its limits and beyond. Via this algoritm Shimano tries to identify some of these bloody oldschool electronic boxes (called "dongles" sometimes) which manipulate the signal from the speed sensor (and will not work at all on a DU-EP600 or DU-EP801 drive unit). So, never ever use such crap tools (like SpeedBox, MBIQ, BadAss, RedPad, PearTune as well as Planet3 „mechanical tuning“, etc.) on such a bike, because it will miserably fail.
So, some bikers who very often are using these extreme drivetrain settings may easily been hit by these fatal errors, some others who are using their drivetrain not in such extreme postitions may never get such errors. But there is a high risk and every biker with these new generation drive units from Shimano should be aware of this high risk and much better do a correction of the programmed values if there was a change in the drive train components done.

Especially if there is no "real" display mounted on the bike (and e.g. only the SW-EN600-L remote control unit mounted on the left hand side handle bar, like e.g. on many Orbea bikes) chances are very high that the biker will not realize that he already had an E295 (because this SW-EN600-L will just blink red) and then just restarts the bike (which will work with a E295) and then will realize that after 5 of these situations there is no more motor support at all because he finally has got the final fatal E299, which is the end of the sad story...

So, again: Don´t change components on the drivetrain without changing also the related settings!
Take care: A local bike shop CANNOT reset any final E295 - the bike (or drive unit) needs to be sent to a Shimano service centre and they don´t do this job for free normally. I know that some bike owners have paid up to 300€ for this reset process.

With a cable bound SM-PCE02 interface you can easily do the correct configuration of your new chainring size by yourself already in the licence key free (and so completely free of charge version) of the Windows based miniMax - program.

This is super useful, thanks. I picked up my Yeti 160e with the EP801 and latest firmware. I live in Australia and our top speed is 25km/h. Is there any reliable way of increasing this? I have no appetite for error codes!
 
This is super useful, thanks. I picked up my Yeti 160e with the EP801 and latest firmware. I live in Australia and our top speed is 25km/h. Is there any reliable way of increasing this? I have no appetite for error codes!
Sure, just send the guys from eMax-Tuning an email or have a look to their website. Their tuning work perfectly and absolutely error-free with a DU-EP600 or DU-EP801 based bike. :)
 
I went from a 34T chainring to a 36T chainring and never changed any software settings.......Will my motor stop working and require a trip to my local bike shop?
It's only if you have electronic gearing.

If you have electronic gearing. You must set the Chainring teeth and cassettte type and size in the parameters. Shimano can then calculate what speed you should be doing, for a particular gear.

If the calculated speed doesn't match the actual speed. Shimano assumes you are trying to drive the motor faster than the legal speed. You get 3 warning errors to fix the issue before they lock the motor.

1752792935024.png
 
It's only if you have electronic gearing.

If you have electronic gearing. You must set the Chainring teeth and cassettte type and size in the parameters. Shimano can then calculate what speed you should be doing, for a particular gear.

If the calculated speed doesn't match the actual speed. Shimano assumes you are trying to drive the motor faster than the legal speed. You get 3 warning errors to fix the issue before they lock the motor.

View attachment 164535
I have a class 3 motor, so that maybe that's why I have not had any problems after 2500 miles.
 
I have a class 3 motor, so that maybe that's why I have not had any problems after 2500 miles.
It's that or the error is small enough to be ignored by the anit-tamper software. I just don't take any chances, and make sure all parameters match exactly what is installed.
 
It's only if you have electronic gearing.
Sorry, this is not completely correct...
Even thought the antitunig algorithm from Shimano motor firmware is much more sensitive on bikes with electronic Di2 derailleurs (in this way the firmware exactly knows in which gear the bike currently is and so can exctly calculate the transmission rate between motor output axle and rear wheel speed and so compare these values internally), also with a mechanical derailleur (or e.g. a hub based system like Rohloff) will be checked via this antituning algorithm and so it is also important to set the drivetrain configuraiton correctly in this situation to avoid any E295 and E299 errors!
I have a class 3 motor, so that maybe that's why I have not had any problems after 2500 miles.
The antituning algorithm is not depending on the current country destination setting of the bike. So you also can get E295 and E299 errors in US Class 3 mode with a max. motor support speed of max. 28mph (or 45km/h) if your drivetrain configuation parameters (chainring size, number of gears of the cassetter, smallest and largest sprocket of the cassette) are not properly matching the reality. The antituning algorith is "just" checking if the speed of the motor output axle and the rear wheel are in the range of the programmed drivetrain parameters and so tries to identify a so called "dongle" (an external hardware box) who is manipulating the signal of the speed sensor which is attached at the rear wheel ( e.g. by dividing the pulses by 2, so the drive unit e.g. only will get a single pulse every 2 turns of the rear wheel).
 
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Sorry, this is not completely correct...
Even thought the antitunig algorithm from Shimano motor firmware is much more sensitive on bikes with electronic Di2 derailleurs (in this way the firmware exactly knows in which gear the bike currently is and so can exctly calculate the transmission rate between motor output axle and rear wheel speed and so compare these values internally), also with a mechanical derailleur (or e.g. a hub based system like Rohloff) will be checked via this antituning algorithm and so it is also important to set the drivetrain configuraiton correctly in this situation to avoid any E295 and E299 errors!
Well that is interesting, because when I removed the mechanical derailleur on my bike and installed the electronic derailleur. The mechanical parameters were incorrect for what was installed on the bike from the factory.

Infact it wouldn't let me download the parameters after selecting the electronic shifting, because they didn't match the 12 speed cassette. That's how I realised the parameters were wrong. It wasn't until I set the parameters to 12speed, 10-51T that it let me download.
 
Well that is interesting, because when I removed the mechanical derailleur on my bike and installed the electronic derailleur. The mechanical parameters were incorrect for what was installed on the bike from the factory.

Infact it wouldn't let me download the parameters after selecting the electronic shifting, because they didn't match the 12 speed cassette. That's how I realised the parameters were wrong. It wasn't until I set the parameters to 12speed, 10-51T that it let me download.
As written in a previous post, there are a huge number of bikers which have wrong settings of the drivetrain and never will experience an E295 or final E299 error because they are mostly not riding in the extreme conditions which will trigger these errors (like going up a step hill slowly in ther very lowest gear for quite a long time).
However, wrong drivetrain configuration settings on a DU-EP600 or DU-EP801 drive units are ALWAYS a ticking timebomb.
See e.g. this German forum post which is related to some guys how had E295 errors due to a wrong configuration of a mechanical Rohloff 14 speed hub (for the root cause of this post see some posts before, e.g. here and here).
 
I rode a derestricted bike yesterday and I was quite blown away as how fast it went, I did 20mph up hill and 25 on short run flat.
Been offered to have mine done but I'm undecided whether to have it done.
My concerns are what does it do to the battery life and what effects does it have on any internals in the motor?
 
My concerns are what does it do to the battery life and what effects does it have on any internals in the motor?
In the case of the Shimano EP801. You are not de-restricting the motor. You are simply changing the region setting. So both the motor and battery are designed for that speed, as bikes sold in region you set them to. Are capable of that speed.

That said. Running the motor faster will mean that both the motor and battery are running at a greater load. But it would be no different to someone who runs his bike at 25kph, but always climbing steep hills.

Run a motor and battery harder, and both will have shorter lives. But this is regardless of whether the load is created by extra speed, or extra incline.
 
Been offered to have mine done but I'm undecided whether to have it done.
It really comes down to your appetite for risk. You are risking your warranty if it can be proven that you changed the bikes region, and you needed a warranty claim. EMax does not believe it can be tracked. But who knows in this networked eco-system we live in.

There is also the risk, that the motor fails, so you cannot power it up to change the region back to the local region. In this case, if you send it for warranty. Shimano will certainly find that you altered the region, and void your warranty.

Then there is the legal risk. We currently have an Ebike blitz in Sydney, where suspicious ebikes are being tested by police. So if you do ride up a hill at 40kph and pass law enforcement. You will certainly be checked that your ebike motor cuts out at 25kph.
 
...perfect answers already - thanks. ;) (y)
Just some add ons:
EMax does not believe it can be tracked.
With eMax-Tunig is it ALWAYS easily possible to bring back the bike (drive unit) to the absolutely traceless state in which you don´t get any problems when there is a warranty issue or service appointment.
There is also the risk, that the motor fails, so you cannot power it up to change the region back to the local region. In this case, if you send it for warranty. Shimano will certainly find that you altered the region, and void your warranty.
If the drive unit fails completely and cannot be accessed via cable bound PCE interface anymore and so reset to the traceless initial settings (which is an extremely, extremely rare case), then also Shimano will not be able to connect to this drive unit and does not do any further investigation. They don´t have the time and ressources to open up such a drive unit and do some forensics - that makes no sense. So, in this case you normally just will get a new replacement drive unit from Shimano (mostly free of charge). :)
 
It really comes down to your appetite for risk. You are risking your warranty if it can be proven that you changed the bikes region, and you needed a warranty claim. EMax does not believe it can be tracked. But who knows in this networked eco-system we live in.

There is also the risk, that the motor fails, so you cannot power it up to change the region back to the local region. In this case, if you send it for warranty. Shimano will certainly find that you altered the region, and void your warranty.

Then there is the legal risk. We currently have an Ebike blitz in Sydney, where suspicious ebikes are being tested by police. So if you do ride up a hill at 40kph and pass law enforcement. You will certainly be checked that your ebike motor cuts out at 25kph.
Yes that's another concern is the old bill, but saying that I have never been pulling up by them in over 40 years of riding that's to say it would never happen.
I know when to use that extra speed as I'll just keep it around 20mph.
Thanks for all replies
 
Either have I. But these new motorbike looking ebikes with throttles, that the kids are riding here, has the police cracking down on everyone. It's even being shown on the National News.
I think the police know who to look out for,
I'm 53 and I go on my rides around 6 or 7 o'clock in the morning.
Never hardly see any police just dog walkers.
 
I rode a derestricted bike yesterday and I was quite blown away as how fast it went, I did 20mph up hill and 25 on short run flat.
Been offered to have mine done but I'm undecided whether to have it done.
My concerns are what does it do to the battery life and what effects does it have on any internals in the motor?
I am riding derestricted for 5 years, 2x a week on trails and parks. First Bosch now Ep801. Impossible to go back... Tried it after the last time I broke 3 ribs but was bored to death. It is either enjoying 100% and unrestricted or quit mbiking for me.

The sport comes with a lot of risks. Paying for a new battery or motor is the least of worry. I have broken rims, bent cranks, bent rear sus bracket and eaten up chains and cassettes on a regular interval. Comes with the sport. Not the cheapest choice.

Love the guys from Emax. Best support and flipping to 45kmh and back to 25km can be done with the mobile app using Bluetooth after you hooked it up with a dongle and a Windows app.

My advise? Enjoy life and hack things when you can. Pay for the fun.
 
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