Other Trek Slash+ 9.7 – worth buying now? Looking for advice (TQ motor, high pivot, parts, battery)

vapeuz

vapeuz

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Hey everyone,


Some time ago I bought a Trek Fuel EXe and I’ve got to say I was really impressed. Super light, rode like a regular trail bike, and the TQ motor felt incredibly natural and quiet. Honestly one of the best e-MTBs I’ve ridden.





Unfortunately, I got a bit burned on the deal. The bike was sold as a 2025 model, but most of the components turned out to be from 2023, and there were some frame scratches and paint defects passed off as “storage wear.” I ended up returning the bike.





Now I’m looking for something similar, and I noticed that the Trek Slash+ 9.7 just went on sale, probably because of the launch of the new TQ HPR60 motor. I’m thinking about pulling the trigger — is now a good time to buy?





A few things are important to me:





  • I want to stick with the TQ motor system love how natural and silent it is.
  • The big 580 Wh battery on the Slash+ is a huge plus — that extra range matters to me.
  • I’ve never ridden a high pivot bike before how is it for maintenance, and are parts easy to replace?
  • I read on Trek’s official site that the motor is replaceable, so even if it fails after the warranty ends, there’s a path for upgrade that’s reassuring.







One thing I’m not interested in: direct-to-consumer bikes like Propain, so if you’re thinking of suggesting a new propain shresh or something similar appreciate it, but not my thing. I prefer dealing with local bike shops and having proper support.





Would love to hear feedback from anyone who’s ridden the Slash+, especially on how it compares long term to something like the Fuel EXe or other TQ-equipped bikes. Thanks!
 
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If you are a hard-core ride the Slash+ is a nice bike but considering you thought to get the Fuel Exe I'm not sure if it's really worth it as you can check the dedicated thread that the high Pivot is a bit annoying and requires quite a few care.

As well the 9.7 even on sale is such a cheap build. That would required in short time to e place mostly everything. To me a 9.8 should be in the books but maybe it didn't make sense for Trek, who knows.
As well the 9.7 is not a light machine and the HPR 50 is a bit too low on torque.

The new motors seems really dialed so maybe Trek will launch an update with the new one with a better spec.

If high pivot is a must then I would either check the new Forbidden or the Norco Sight with the Bosch Gen 5 ( it's really close in weight)
 
Bogdan_CH said:
As well the 9.7 even on sale is such a cheap build. That would required in short time to e place mostly everything.
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Ahhh c'mon now that's just a silly thing to say. It has a fine mid level spec. Perhaps it could be priced a bit better for the spec but the stock parts would be fine for 90% of riders. It's not like it comes with Sram SX and a Rock Shox 35.
 
Don’t listen to the dragstrip crowd. They don’t get it. The Slash+ has been a great bike. The range is excellent, the suspension is unmatched. I also love the power delivery and silence of the motor.
 
Nobody said the bike is not great. I think it's an amazing piece of kit but just to thing on two important things :

1. New model coming out is iminent. Buying the previous gen, you will want to upgrade to the new motor (if possible). That's a 1000 $/Euro loss straight ahead

2. Hopefully there will be a mid spec model like the 9.8 , or a better spec 9.7 as the base model is just really weak for propper riding.
 
Been a useful thread thanks for everyones input. Also considering one now they have come down in price.

UK prices are down (saw £4500 for the red one and £8500 for the Mercury). The lower spec one really is trash spec, I'd probably keep the XT drive train and bin the rest as it's no use to anyone so probably looking at nearly £7k upgraded. And I dont like the colours.

Can always upgrade later to the tq60 if it's a revelation compared to the tq50 but I can't see it being all that much better surely??
 
From the trek FAQ:

Can I upgrade my HPR 50 motor to the HPR 60 motor?

Yes. Upgrading from HPR50 to HPR60 will give you an additional 10 Nm of torque, plus HPR60 is more efficient and even quieter than HPR50. However, your bike’s firmware will only allow you to get 300 watts of peak mechanical power.

Upgrades must be completed by a Trek retailer using the TQ Dealer Service Tool and TQ dongle, and the cooling fins must be removed.



Will Trek stock motors for upgrades or for warranty only?

For 2026, Trek will stock limited HPR60 motors for warranty only. Non-warranty upgrades will require sourcing a motor from another TQ distributor.


Slash+ FAQ - Trek Bikes (GB)

www.trekbikes.com www.trekbikes.com
 
why can they not upgrade the firmware to give 350W? where does the firmware live? is it in the motor or the battery or the screen?
 
Dave_B said:
why can they not upgrade the firmware to give 350W? where does the firmware live? is it in the motor or the battery or the screen?
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I'm sure they can upgrade it, they are just choosing not to on the gen 1 bikes. Most likely to keep some carrot for the gen 2 bikes.
 
Dave_B said:
why can they not upgrade the firmware to give 350W? where does the firmware live? is it in the motor or the battery or the screen?
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When you install a new hpr60 motor, you need to use the dealer service tool to activate it. As part of the activation process it asks you for the serial number of the bike it's going into. It looks like tq maintain a database of all bike serials and the motor they originally shipped with, the activation process looks up the bike serial in this db. If it originally shipped with an hpr50 motor tq then limit the newly installed hpr60 motor to 300w max.

I guess you could get hold of a serial number for a bike that uses the hpr60, and input this during the activation process, but not sure if this would cause problems down the line with updates etc as you would effectively have two motors in the wild linked to the same bike.
 
that's a shame, there is a slash+ in my local shop at a good price, was considering buying it and upgrading the motor at a later date.
 
Dave_B said:
that's a shame, there is a slash+ in my local shop at a good price, was considering buying it and upgrading the motor at a later date.
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You'll still get the 60nm torque, quieter running, apparently significantly improved range, and improved cooling so it doesn't thermal throttle as much, with the hpr60, you just don't get the 50w extra.

I just put the hpr60 in my fuel exe because the hpr50 motor failed, haven't ridden it properly yet though so who knows whether the upgrade will be noticable. I'm hoping for a significant range improvement, not too bothered about the rest.
 
Mteam said:
You'll still get the 60nm torque, quieter running, apparently significantly improved range, and improved cooling so it doesn't thermal throttle as much, with the hpr60, you just don't get the 50w extra.

I just put the hpr60 in my fuel exe because the hpr50 motor failed, haven't ridden it properly yet though so who knows whether the upgrade will be noticable. I'm hoping for a significant range improvement, not too bothered about the rest.
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Well, you know what your task is for the weekend…..get out and ride it and give a full report 😂👍
 
My rear end is quite noisy, ive bought some VHS tape as it sounds like chain slap.

Is that normal. No jokes plz.
 
mike172 said:
My rear end is quite noisy, ive bought some VHS tape as it sounds like chain slap.

Is that normal. No jokes plz.
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What drivetrain? Mine's been very quiet with GX Transmission & STFU tape. There's things I don't love about Transmission but the clutch is a big improvement, much lass chain slapping. Replacing the stock choinstay protector will help.
 
Emailsucks98 said:
What drivetrain? Mine's been very quiet with GX Transmission & STFU tape. There's things I don't love about Transmission but the clutch is a big improvement, much lass chain slapping. Replacing the stock choinstay protector will help.
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XO axs. Ill try this VHS tape. All bolts are tight but ill double check the motor compensation bolts again. I think it's chain slap though.
 
mike172 said:
It's the latest t type sram x0 axs from the Slash+ 9.9
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Ok. If you if you haven’t already, you might try resetting the chain tension. I learned the hard way that SRAMs directions aren’t quite clear. It’s best done by backing the axle out 2-3 full turns and then pulling back on the lower cage while tightening the der bolt to 35nm. The instructions say one full turn, but that can tighten the axle completely which binds up the derailleur. Also when SRAM says 7th cog they’re counting down from the largest. Hope that helps
 
Emailsucks98 said:
Ok. If you if you haven’t already, you might try resetting the chain tension. I learned the hard way that SRAMs directions aren’t quite clear. It’s best done by backing the axle out 2-3 full turns and then pulling back on the lower cage while tightening the der bolt to 35nm. The instructions say one full turn, but that can tighten the axle completely which binds up the derailleur. Also when SRAM says 7th cog they’re counting down from the largest. Hope that helps
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Thanks appreciate it ill give that a try. I have run GX for years and not had too many issues
 
VHS 3 is just awesome on this bike, I just can't hear the chain anymore. I am on my second one on the slash! Btw the t-type and its peculiar chain works better than shimano as it touch a lit less the protection on the smaller cog.

I also since 3 week tested wax, so far it makes also the bike quiet, I still wonder on muddy days and on the long term if this is a good idea on a pivot bike as it can accumulate lots of debris over there.
 
Are the two HPR50 Compensation screws on the Slash+ adjustable?

At risk of sounding really silly, I am almost certian both are adjustable however one has siezed on mine (well aware its left hand). Ive had to extract this as they are made of cheese and the torx bit was rounded off when I got it, and in doing so have removed the housing for the bolt too which was green threadlocked into the motor body.

Not the end of the world if I need to buy a HPR60, but pretty shit. Hopefully if Ive made a mistake here itll help someone else avoid it.

I also cant find a specific compensation screw for the Trek Slash+, Silverfish in the UK sell "TQ HPR50 Drive Unit Bolt Set SKU: TQ-339276" which arent suitable for the Slash+ as the Slash+'s screws have a narrower head.

1754994180292.png
 
Yes they should be both adjustable. If you need a new one you better of asking your lbs Trek. Usually they are set and forget, you only from time to time play with the fixation bolts to add carbon paste to avoid creaks on crank push.
 
mike172 said:
Are the two HPR50 Compensation screws on the Slash+ adjustable?

At risk of sounding really silly, I am almost certian both are adjustable however one has siezed on mine (well aware its left hand). Ive had to extract this as they are made of cheese and the torx bit was rounded off when I got it, and in doing so have removed the housing for the bolt too which was green threadlocked into the motor body.

Not the end of the world if I need to buy a HPR60, but pretty shit. Hopefully if Ive made a mistake here itll help someone else avoid it.

I also cant find a specific compensation screw for the Trek Slash+, Silverfish in the UK sell "TQ HPR50 Drive Unit Bolt Set SKU: TQ-339276" which arent suitable for the Slash+ as the Slash+'s screws have a narrower head.
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They are definitely adjustable. And made of cheese!

I know mine were just starting to round out with a t55 wrench that had a tapered head. I was able to get everything aligned within .5mm and after re-assembly with anti-sieze & locktite the bike has been silent since.

I am not sure what you mean by "housings for bolts" but if the compensator bolts are still attached to the motor, disc brake shims might be perfect to get everything aligned without having to adjust the compensator bolts. Just measure the motor, measure the frame, then measure up a stack of shims thick enough to make up the difference.
 
Emailsucks98 said:
They are definitely adjustable. And made of cheese!

I know mine were just starting to round out with a t55 wrench that had a tapered head. I was able to get everything aligned within .5mm and after re-assembly with anti-sieze & locktite the bike has been silent since.

I am not sure what you mean by "housings for bolts" but if the compensator bolts are still attached to the motor, disc brake shims might be perfect to get everything aligned without having to adjust the compensator bolts. Just measure the motor, measure the frame, then measure up a stack of shims thick enough to make up the difference.
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I just hammered it back in.

Not ridden it yet, so dont know if it creaks

20250812_114126.jpg 20250812_114140.jpg
 
Small wash out and ive bent the lower idler.

Can it be removed entirely? I know the Slash owners do this.

Why do I have so many problems with bikes?

20250821_074230.jpg
 
Maybe you can maybe you can bent it back.

In any case if you remove it it will loose tons of tension so you will need to reduce the chain length.

Honestly I would not remove it
 
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