try to push the battery in with your hands with the frame open (keep it pushed). if that fixes it, get a layer of dense foam, remove the battery connector (unclip it) from the bike, put the foam behind it, clip it back in, then put the battery back in. There's some play over time and the connector does not pushes all the way correctly after a while, which causes this type of problem usually. Not great (its a design issue.. the connector is floating but has a lot of friction and bikes get a lot of bumps and wear..) .. but also, the foam trick does fix it forever. Hopefully thats your issue.
Relay Tips / Tricks
- Thread starter radchad
- Start date
Thanks a lot for suggestion mate I will do that
I found out from Transition that their direct to consumer bikes come pre-packaged from Taiwan. Meaning, when you get the bike mailed to you, it comes as is from the manufacturing facility. But when you buy from the Outpost at TR headquarters, their mechanics pull the bikes out of the box and build them up. They are working on hiring a QC person to live in the town as the packing facility to remedy most of the issues that come with a direct to consumer purchase.
In my experience with 4 of my friends purchasing Relays directly from TR, one of the most common things that are somewhat out of alignment is the battery retaining clip. The easy fix for that is to just bend it down toward the bottom bracket of the bike. When you bend it far enough that the battery retaining clip doesn't allow you to insert the battery, bend it back every so slightly until the battery can be inserted. That fixes 98% of the power connectivity issues.
Of course since this is an item that moves upwards every time you insert or remove the battery, making sure the battery retaining clip is in the optimum position every 3-4 months will be best practice.
In my experience with 4 of my friends purchasing Relays directly from TR, one of the most common things that are somewhat out of alignment is the battery retaining clip. The easy fix for that is to just bend it down toward the bottom bracket of the bike. When you bend it far enough that the battery retaining clip doesn't allow you to insert the battery, bend it back every so slightly until the battery can be inserted. That fixes 98% of the power connectivity issues.
Of course since this is an item that moves upwards every time you insert or remove the battery, making sure the battery retaining clip is in the optimum position every 3-4 months will be best practice.
I did my own bendy expererimenting with the battery retaining clip in my Alloy Relay, as when new, it was really difficult to get the battery to seat proper. I've arrived via trial and error a clip angle that works great, although it still take a really good two handed squeeze to get the battery to 'click' in. While replacing my dropper with a lower travel version, I had to remove the lower plastic battery cradle (I actually broke the lower tabs when removing it so be careful!) - I never reinstalled it and have had no issues reinstalling my battery...the alloy version have a bit less volume in the downtube compared to the carbon, so if you're having issues, maybe remove that lower cradle (keep the upper!) and see....
I have read through the spire forum on PB, seams like some issues still persists with the relay.
I also had the issue with the shock had some play at the bottom mount which occured again and again. Using new quality shock hardware fixed it for me. (Huber Bushings).
Now I still have a very noisy kind of rattle coming from the rear.
I noticed on rough descends, that my rear triangle makes a lot of noise.
I tightened all pivots again to spec, but i have some play in bearing / pivot chainstay drive side. If I grab the rear wheel at 12 oclock and rattle it side to side while holding the pivot/joint you can feel the movement in your fingers.
I sanded down the female pivot bolt by 1mm, will try it tomorrow. (Suggestion from Transition for the Spire)
Did you also experience rattle coning from the rear when descending in the rough?
I also had the issue with the shock had some play at the bottom mount which occured again and again. Using new quality shock hardware fixed it for me. (Huber Bushings).
Now I still have a very noisy kind of rattle coming from the rear.
I noticed on rough descends, that my rear triangle makes a lot of noise.
I tightened all pivots again to spec, but i have some play in bearing / pivot chainstay drive side. If I grab the rear wheel at 12 oclock and rattle it side to side while holding the pivot/joint you can feel the movement in your fingers.
I sanded down the female pivot bolt by 1mm, will try it tomorrow. (Suggestion from Transition for the Spire)
Did you also experience rattle coning from the rear when descending in the rough?
Didn‘t help 
I‘ll trey new bearings.
Any advice for a best practice to remove them? It‘s a double bearing each side:
1) remove c -clips
2) press both bearings out at once? (Not pull out)
3) apply 1 c-clip, press in bearing 1 until it touches the c-clip, then press in bearing 2 from same side until aligned with 1st bearing
4) apply 2nd c-clip.
Is this procedure right?
I‘ll trey new bearings.
Any advice for a best practice to remove them? It‘s a double bearing each side:
1) remove c -clips
2) press both bearings out at once? (Not pull out)
3) apply 1 c-clip, press in bearing 1 until it touches the c-clip, then press in bearing 2 from same side until aligned with 1st bearing
4) apply 2nd c-clip.
Is this procedure right?
For the record:
As sanding down the pivot didn‘t help. I changed the chain stay bearings (they turned quite rough and had some rust, only drive side). This helped finally, no more play when wiggeling the rear wheel. Will try in few days if this silenced the bike.
I pulled out one of the double bearings, then pushed out the other, went quite smooth, i guess pushing out both at once would have worked also, but this was the safer way.
As sanding down the pivot didn‘t help. I changed the chain stay bearings (they turned quite rough and had some rust, only drive side). This helped finally, no more play when wiggeling the rear wheel. Will try in few days if this silenced the bike.
I pulled out one of the double bearings, then pushed out the other, went quite smooth, i guess pushing out both at once would have worked also, but this was the safer way.
These are the 2 I ordered from my LBS
FSA MR229 (61.9x8x50mm) lower
FSA MR127 Headset Bearing top
Hiya,
I'm a new joiner to the Relay club: picked up a 2023 XO AXS PNW in XXL.
Unfortunately, I have a connectivity issue I have trouble to pinpoint:
I initially had FW 1.8 on the motor and remote system and was able to connect via Bluetooth and ANT+ on the day I picked it up.
The same evening I installed vRide Bundle 12. After that, I couldn't get a Bluetooth (app) or ANT+ connection anymore. I deleted the BT pairing and forgot the bike in the app, but no BT comes up when searching.
A couple of days later I was able to connect with my wife's phone and also got ANT signal again. The day after it was gone again.
In between those events i was at Transition in Bellingham. They connected a different LED hub, but couldn't get it to work. Fazua says the LED hub transmits the BT signal, and that because of that they think it's my phone. But since it worked and then stopped working with a second phone and I tested a third phone that didn't work, plus a different LED hub didn't change things, I'm thinking it's a software issue.
Has anybody had the issue? Any tips on what to do next?
Thanks!
I'm a new joiner to the Relay club: picked up a 2023 XO AXS PNW in XXL.
Unfortunately, I have a connectivity issue I have trouble to pinpoint:
I initially had FW 1.8 on the motor and remote system and was able to connect via Bluetooth and ANT+ on the day I picked it up.
The same evening I installed vRide Bundle 12. After that, I couldn't get a Bluetooth (app) or ANT+ connection anymore. I deleted the BT pairing and forgot the bike in the app, but no BT comes up when searching.
A couple of days later I was able to connect with my wife's phone and also got ANT signal again. The day after it was gone again.
In between those events i was at Transition in Bellingham. They connected a different LED hub, but couldn't get it to work. Fazua says the LED hub transmits the BT signal, and that because of that they think it's my phone. But since it worked and then stopped working with a second phone and I tested a third phone that didn't work, plus a different LED hub didn't change things, I'm thinking it's a software issue.
Has anybody had the issue? Any tips on what to do next?
Thanks!
Hi folks,
I'm having lots of fun with my Relay, minus some issues like the intermittent connectivity (new led hub and controller finally approved by fazua), a broken dhx shock after 6 rides (went to a SDU) and now creaky motor bolts.
I read through the thread and think i have mostly understood how to fix the creak, but am not sure 100%. So I have the steps right?
- with bike in stand, remove shock and lift rear triangle .
- Remove motor cover, DS crank arm and spider to be able to access bolt heads
- disconnect cables
- remove all 6 bolts, drop motor
- remove bushings *how?*
- clean bushings and seats, apply copper anti seize
- reassemble as per instructions (tightening order of bolts)
Thanks for your help!
I'm having lots of fun with my Relay, minus some issues like the intermittent connectivity (new led hub and controller finally approved by fazua), a broken dhx shock after 6 rides (went to a SDU) and now creaky motor bolts.
I read through the thread and think i have mostly understood how to fix the creak, but am not sure 100%. So I have the steps right?
- with bike in stand, remove shock and lift rear triangle .
- Remove motor cover, DS crank arm and spider to be able to access bolt heads
- disconnect cables
- remove all 6 bolts, drop motor
- remove bushings *how?*
- clean bushings and seats, apply copper anti seize
- reassemble as per instructions (tightening order of bolts)
Thanks for your help!
Super, thank you so much, Tmae. One clarifier: I read somewhere the bushings were held in by springs. Are the ones next to the red arrows the ones?
A small thing on Loctite: The 2-series Loctite is not quite the right product for this application. It's for threads. There are better ones: 641 (medium strength) or 640 (high strength) retaining compound for bearings, bushings, etc. It has slightly different properties. I learned about it in the context of press fit bottom bracket installation:
www.henkel-adhesives.com
A small thing on Loctite: The 2-series Loctite is not quite the right product for this application. It's for threads. There are better ones: 641 (medium strength) or 640 (high strength) retaining compound for bearings, bushings, etc. It has slightly different properties. I learned about it in the context of press fit bottom bracket installation:
LOCTITE® 640
High-strength retaining compound for large diameter cylindrical components
www.henkel-adhesives.com
Your steps are right, except for the "apply copper anti seize" it will wear out and re-creak
Just use Green Loctite or any bearing retaining compound
Couple of tricks that I used when doing mine
1) Flip the bike on its bars and seat
2)Disconnect only the main power connector
3)You dont have to remove the cranks
4)To remove the bushings you can either pull them out by hand or get a longer bolt that stock and use that to push/pull out the bushing
Thanks! If you only disconnect the power cable, you leave the motor on the bike (as speed and other cables are still connected)?
I just redid my motor mount bolts last night. I'm on my 2nd motor and so far I have had to do them at 700km and about 1400km. Here is what I did:
Have you had luck using the green loctite? How many km have you put on the bike since? I'm afraid that the creaking will come back but the bushings will be super hard to remove if I use the green.
- Flip bike upside down
- Take chain off chainring
- Undo top shock mounts in order to access the 3rd motor bolt on each side
- Remove all 6 bolts and disconnect power wire
- Slide motor out park way
- Use the bolts threaded in part way to remove the bushings
- Clean and apply nickel anti seize
- Reinstall
Have you had luck using the green loctite? How many km have you put on the bike since? I'm afraid that the creaking will come back but the bushings will be super hard to remove if I use the green.
Theres enough slack in the other wires that you can pull the motor far enough out
I got to the point where I got the floating bushing out easily. Since it's floating, do you still use retaining compound on it or anti-seize?
I am hesitant on the rest:
The two forward non-drive-side bushings, did I get that right that people use a long bolt and bottom it out against the housing to push the bushing out?
On the drive side, I could see myself get the bushings out, but am concerned about getting them back in:
And lastly, the rear non-drive side bushing: here I would need to pull on the bolt to get it out?
Thank you!
I am hesitant on the rest:
The two forward non-drive-side bushings, did I get that right that people use a long bolt and bottom it out against the housing to push the bushing out?
On the drive side, I could see myself get the bushings out, but am concerned about getting them back in:
And lastly, the rear non-drive side bushing: here I would need to pull on the bolt to get it out?
Thank you!
I don't believe you have to do anything to the fixed side. Just the sliding bushing side.
Yes only the slide bushings on one side.
I did it 4 times already, it‘s possible to do without removing the cranks and bash ring / chain ring, but MUCH easier if you remove them, especially getting them in again.
I also only remove the power cable and do the job wirh motor half way out
I did it 4 times already, it‘s possible to do without removing the cranks and bash ring / chain ring, but MUCH easier if you remove them, especially getting them in again.
I also only remove the power cable and do the job wirh motor half way out
Thanks for everyone's help! I got the job done, it wasn't too bad after all. The most difficult part was to get the plastic battery back plate in the rack back in place. @Pigeon14: in using medium strength retaining compound, loctite 641. We'll see how things go.
I'm concerned that the silver ring that sits in a groove on the motor had slipped off. I put it back in but wonder what's going on.
I'm concerned that the silver ring that sits in a groove on the motor had slipped off. I put it back in but wonder what's going on.
I notcied that too on mine, but TBH, Im not even sure what the purpose of the thin strip of metal is..It doesnt seem to retain anything and it just sits their loose on the motor
Some people say if it falls off, that its sure sign tell that the motor case will split..have yet to see that yet on mine
The first ride with the cleaned and reinstalled bushings was quiet. Let's hope it lasts! On the other hand, the TRP pistons on my Relay are terribly uneven in terms of actuation - another thing to fix. I did their "piston lube and exercise" procedure, but little success so far. I'll see what the shop comes back with, as they're also changing parts to fix the Bluetooth and ANT transmission issue.
I also read about the 480wh battery offer at half price for those who had wanted to buy a range extender. Has anybody tried to get one?
I also read about the 480wh battery offer at half price for those who had wanted to buy a range extender. Has anybody tried to get one?
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
I've been looking for that info too. Not really turning up with anything.
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
My Decoy SN started creaking a couple rides ago so I ordered some Loctite 680 and going to try that when it comes. Hopefully that'll fix it.
