JP-NZ
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Hi Stihldog, do you think the exe is faster downhill than your rail was/is then?
I'm still tempted by a carbon exe
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
I'm still tempted by a carbon exe
Oh yes!
I’m glad, or fortunate, to have both bikes. The geometry is very similar between the two but the agility and ability is completely different.
I use the Rail 9.7 for faster ascents, higher altitude, packing tools, longer rides, or when I need to get there fast.
The Fuel EXE 8 is much faster on the descent. The agility is just better. It climbs amazingly but more effort is required. The TQ motor makes it quiet yet the power is still there for the climbs.
I find I’m using both, but probably the Fuel EXE more often. It kinda depends on the terrain or what I plan on doing.
I hope to equip the Fuel with similar upgrades as the Rail. I want to make them feel the same, but they have different purposes for me.
I have the alloy frame. I don’t have buyers remorse but the Fuel EXE 8 came with the AXS T-type transmission and the price was reasonable.
I like the carbon exe also but that model was a little out of my budget.
Teuton
New Member
Hello I have about 500 miles on my 23 9.7. Over the last few night I have noticed a "clacking/grinding" noise from the motor about 20 minutes into a ride. If I take a couple minute break, the noise will go away but will come back shortly after. It makes me think it has something to do with the temperature of the motor? I have no error messages and I mostly use the bike in the Medium setting. Has anyone experienced something similar?
wheelsx2
Member
Looks like a round of TQ updates are on the way.
Curious what "Reduction of the maximum assist speed per mode in the App by the customer (within the legal requirements)." will mean in real life.
Also curious if the trek app will be ready for the updates when they are available.
Curious what "Reduction of the maximum assist speed per mode in the App by the customer (within the legal requirements)." will mean in real life.
Also curious if the trek app will be ready for the updates when they are available.
BobMtnBkr
Member
Interesting comment on Rail vs. Fuel downhill speeds. I had a ’21 Rail 9.8 XT and now have a ’23 Fuel EX-e 9.8 XT. We don’t have big hills here, but my rail was much more composed going fast downhill, especially chunky/gnarly downhills. For me, the rail took a lot of effort, but was faster.
For me, both the Fuel and Rail feel almost identical when I sit on them. The geometry, seat, pedals, grips, bar and tires (2.5” and 2.6”, Assigia), are all exactly the same. The noticeable difference is the weight.
The Rail is a Tank, more pedal power, awesome on long climb's and will crash over anything.
The Fuel EXE is good on climbs but is awesome on technical descents. It’s fast and agile.
For long straight docents…they’re the same. On days where I’m packing tools or riding to a higher trails, I use the Rail.
When I want to play around or get more of a cardio workout, I use the Fuel.
If I had to choose one…it would probably be the Rail …but I really like the Fuel.
Man…that sounds wishy-washy.
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
TLDR: "Bikes are fun!"Man…that sounds wishy-washy.
BobMtnBkr
Member
Stihldog,For me, both the Fuel and Rail feel almost identical when I sit on them. The geometry, seat, pedals, grips, bar and tires (2.5” and 2.6”, Assigia), are all exactly the same. The noticeable difference is the weight.
The Rail is a Tank, more pedal power, awesome on long climb's and will crash over anything.
The Fuel EXE is good on climbs but is awesome on technical descents. It’s fast and agile.
For long straight docents…they’re the same. On days where I’m packing tools or riding to a higher trails, I use the Rail.
When I want to play around or get more of a cardio workout, I use the Fuel.
If I had to choose one…it would probably be the Rail …but I really like the Fuel.
Man…that sounds wishy-washy.
All good points.
My comments focused on comparing the Rail to the Fuel on fast downhills.
For example, one of our local trails has a short, steep downhill - basically a very fast single-track winding between trees with man-made medium-sized tables/jumps and natural whoops and holes. On my carbon Stump Jumper, I drag the brakes most of the way down. On my Fuel, I occasionally tap the brake on the way down. On my Rail, basically no brakes at all.
So I think the rail was a clear winner in terms of maintaining control on the limited gnarly downhills we have here in coastal Virginia. Of course, mellow out the downhill, throw in some sharp turns or chicanes and I believe the Fuel might be faster to the bottom. So the answer appears to be "it depends".
The Fuel does outshine the Rail on tight switchbacks or lifting that front wheel when needed. Sometimes it’s faster. I agree …it depends.
Hi
Just picked up a fuel exe 9.9. It’s not brand new - was a demo bike and has 400 miles on the clock.
One thing that’s irritating is the tq display on the top tube doesn’t sit quite flush. The top end nearest the headset is flush as it is screwed to the frame, but the lower end has a slight gap between the display module and the top of the frame. I’ve fettled the wiring below to create more space and it is sitting slightly better, but now i’m aware of it, it’s just not a great seal and i’m in the UK so it’s only going to let moisture in.
Is this a known issue?
Sorry not checked the entire thread as it’s quite long
Just picked up a fuel exe 9.9. It’s not brand new - was a demo bike and has 400 miles on the clock.
One thing that’s irritating is the tq display on the top tube doesn’t sit quite flush. The top end nearest the headset is flush as it is screwed to the frame, but the lower end has a slight gap between the display module and the top of the frame. I’ve fettled the wiring below to create more space and it is sitting slightly better, but now i’m aware of it, it’s just not a great seal and i’m in the UK so it’s only going to let moisture in.
Is this a known issue?
Sorry not checked the entire thread as it’s quite long
My display does not have a gap and sits flush. I did crack the LCD screen due to the location. It was my fault. I’d prefer to have no display, just an on button. I use a Garmin Edge 830 for all my information as it reads all my AXS shifting. I really like seeing which gear I am in. It provides much more info too. The LCD is easily replaced if something happens. I think the next step in the evolution of displays will be to partner with companies like Garmin or Strava to provide maps and other data. I guess we will see.Hi
Just picked up a fuel exe 9.9. It’s not brand new - was a demo bike and has 400 miles on the clock.
One thing that’s irritating is the tq display on the top tube doesn’t sit quite flush. The top end nearest the headset is flush as it is screwed to the frame, but the lower end has a slight gap between the display module and the top of the frame. I’ve fettled the wiring below to create more space and it is sitting slightly better, but now i’m aware of it, it’s just not a great seal and i’m in the UK so it’s only going to let moisture in.
Is this a known issue?
Sorry not checked the entire thread as it’s quite long
My display doesn’t have a gap either …but I have the alloy frame.
You can see that I applied Invisa-Frame also.
I wonder if during the layup process there was a slight movement which caused an imperfection in the LED opening? I assume that alloy frames are stamp-cut …maybe?
Carefully inspect the inside ridge, maybe a slight sanding in that area could be necessary. I wouldn’t want water ingress at that point.
wheelsx2
Member
Where I live, it is so wet so much of the year, I put invisiframe over the entire display. I worry less about water than the mud and scratching up the display. The bubble around the button goes away after several days.
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
Same here, also electrical tape over the seams between display & top tube (invisible on a black bike)
PNW Wet riding and weekly hose-offs all last winter, no issues....
I’ve used electrical tape, but only to hide the display. I am going to Sedona tomorrow, so want to be stealth as possible(EMTB’s are not allowed there). I will be using it tomorrow. I live in the desert, so water ingress is not an issue.
njatherton
Member
There is a blank screen stealth mode available in the TQ app.
Thanks for the info. I just downloaded the TQ app and activated stealth mode. Everything went to stealth, except that it still showed the battery bar (not the percentage, just the bar). Does yours do the same ?
Last edited:
My looks the same, black display just battery bars on it.
Hey Guys.
Having an issue with my EXe 8.
First noticed it was only after charging to 97% the day before a ride. Charger was flashing red.
Plugged it out and back in still flashed red. Left it over night and it fully charged with a solid green light. Happy days.
Rode the bike down to 5% washed it and it hasn't charged since. Flashing red battery and it actually drained all the way down to 0%.
Checked all the leads and plugs, all dry and in good order.
While I had the battery out I connected it to the charger and it seems to have taken a full charge. Flashed green and then a few hours later solid green. Again I thought all was well.
Refitted the battery but now the bike won't even turn on.
Is there anything else I can check before I make the 6hour round trip to the bike shop for them to look at it.
Thanks guys
Having an issue with my EXe 8.
First noticed it was only after charging to 97% the day before a ride. Charger was flashing red.
Plugged it out and back in still flashed red. Left it over night and it fully charged with a solid green light. Happy days.
Rode the bike down to 5% washed it and it hasn't charged since. Flashing red battery and it actually drained all the way down to 0%.
Checked all the leads and plugs, all dry and in good order.
While I had the battery out I connected it to the charger and it seems to have taken a full charge. Flashed green and then a few hours later solid green. Again I thought all was well.
Refitted the battery but now the bike won't even turn on.
Is there anything else I can check before I make the 6hour round trip to the bike shop for them to look at it.
Thanks guys
Did the bike get a firmware update when you purchased it? This needs to be done through your bike shop with the battery in the bike. Not sure if this is your issue, but it should s like you need to go to your shop.
I'm sure it was not updated when I left the shop as it came in its box.
But I have ridden it 3 months with no issues.
I have it all re assembled now so I'd say you are right.
Back to the shop it goes. I'll keep ye posted once I know
Just a quick one for anyone experiencing the dreaded creak when pedalling/bouncing up and down etc.
If you've already checked/done the following
-check motor width compensation bolts
-checked motor mount bolts torque
-checked chain ring lock ring torque
-checked all the suspension pivot bolts for torque and grease
-checked/replaced headset bearing
-checked everything that could move on the bike and torn your hair out.
And you still haven't found the cause of the creak, then try unscrewing the air can from the shock, clean and grease the air can threads then screw it back on.
I've been chasing a creak for months now, i tried everything, eventually I took the air can off, greased the threads and refitted it, and now the bike is silent again.
If you've already checked/done the following
-check motor width compensation bolts
-checked motor mount bolts torque
-checked chain ring lock ring torque
-checked all the suspension pivot bolts for torque and grease
-checked/replaced headset bearing
-checked everything that could move on the bike and torn your hair out.
And you still haven't found the cause of the creak, then try unscrewing the air can from the shock, clean and grease the air can threads then screw it back on.
I've been chasing a creak for months now, i tried everything, eventually I took the air can off, greased the threads and refitted it, and now the bike is silent again.
Swingset
Active member
Put on a set of E13 155mm cranks a while back (the ~$90 version). Hip preservation mitigation primarily. Easy to spin up and makes you shift a bit more frequently but rock strikes are way down and you can get a bit more drop on the seatpost if needed. Like them so far.
Had considered this myself. Noticed alot of rock strikes going from a Pole Machine to the fuel
Jack of All Trails
Member
Howdy, I've been trying to silence my internal cables from rattling up around the front end of the bike, near the head set- geez they are noisy. Anyone else had a similar issue and what was you solution? thanks Jack
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