155mm ISIS crankset price range!

irie

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Miranda cranks about £60
Hope cranks about £170
5Dev cranks about £450

Bought Miranda cranks.

What do I get by instead spending either 2.8 times more on Hope cranks or 7.5 times more on 5Dev cranks?
 
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Miranda......................assume cast and 6000 series ally? No self extract.
Hope.........7150 forged and CNCd ally plus self extract..........and most important of all.....lots of colours :LOL:
5 Dev......... ditto ( I assume) and given the shape probably quite a bit lighter.

I chose the Hope cranks. Fit once and forget! One thing I liked a bout Hope was that they make 3 different models to suit different motors, plus a full set of diagrams that enables you to ensure you will not have problems with hitting chainstays etc. I could not find the same sort of information for anything else at the time. Since then a number of folk have gone for the Mirandas so there is information avaialble from them on here re suitability for specific bikes.
 
Miranda......................assume cast and 6000 series ally? No self extract.
Hope.........7150 forged and CNCd ally plus self extract..........and most important of all.....lots of colours :LOL:
5 Dev......... ditto ( I assume) and given the shape probably quite a bit lighter.

I chose the Hope cranks. Fit once and forget! One thing I liked a bout Hope was that they make 3 different models to suit different motors, plus a full set of diagrams that enables you to ensure you will not have problems with hitting chainstays etc. I could not find the same sort of information for anything else at the time. Since then a number of folk have gone for the Mirandas so there is information avaialble from them on here re suitability for specific bikes.
Our Miranda cranks self extract.
 
Our Miranda cranks self extract.
????? all the pics on their website and on Amazon/tredz/Winstanley etc show cranks with no self extract...some pics include a "pin" spanner cover but no self extract mechanism ....confusing!!
 
????? all the pics on their website and on Amazon/tredz/Winstanley etc show cranks with no self extract...some pics include a "pin" spanner cover but no self extract mechanism ....confusing!!
From the Miranda instruction document:

"z_tT_hNPr-dealers-manual-3-miranda-bike-parts.pdf"

If it is not already assembled, prepare the self-extracting crank bolt as illustrated. If using the plastic cap, just insert the bolt.
1 - Using the 8mm hex and the torque wrench, tight the ISIS crank at the recommended torque of 57 to 64 N.m.
To remove the cranks, if the self-extracting crank bolt is assembled, just use the 8mm hex key and the crank should pull himself off. In case of the standard plastic cap, after removing the crank, you will need the crank puller to get the crank off.



Hopefully you are now less confused.
 
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There might be some reviews for cranks on this forum.
I went with Race Face ERA 160mm. There’s a decent YouTube vid showing a few guys try to destroy them. The carbon era cranks are lighter than the titanium or dev5’s…and a bit cheaper.
 
In the UK looks like Race Face ERA 160mm cranks are £350+ which is about 6 times the price of Miranda cranks.

Will see how we get on with 155mm and if want to try even shorter would be another £50-60 so no big deal.
 
That's a good price. There are a lot of cranks on the web site, are yours: "CK E-BIKE CK-220/IS armset 160mm"?
I bought these
FSA CK-320/JIS armset

SKU Type
CK E-BIKE CK-320/JIS armset 160mm

I think I got lucky lol as I had no idea really what I needed apart from the offset clearance. I took an educated guess at the jis version after many mind boggling research at the fitting standards !! I still don't understand the difference between the square and diamond stuff
 
Yeah, there are zillions of cranks arms on the FSA web site, in the end my eyes started glazing over.
 
Bought Miranda last month for my Reign, they came with self extracting bolts.
 
Miranda makes a wide variety of cranks. You can get anything from the cheapest aluminum to $200+ carbon superlight cranks.
 
Miranda......................assume cast and 6000 series ally? No self extract.
Hope.........7150 forged and CNCd ally plus self extract..........and most important of all.....lots of colours :LOL:
5 Dev......... ditto ( I assume) and given the shape probably quite a bit lighter.

I chose the Hope cranks. Fit once and forget! One thing I liked a bout Hope was that they make 3 different models to suit different motors, plus a full set of diagrams that enables you to ensure you will not have problems with hitting chainstays etc. I could not find the same sort of information for anything else at the time. Since then a number of folk have gone for the Mirandas so there is information avaialble from them on here re suitability for specific bikes.
I have 3pairs and they all come with self extracting bolts.
And some people say that they bend easy but for me that’s a god thing because I rather replace a cheap crank then have a super stiff crank put more force in to the expensive motor.
 
I have 3pairs and they all come with self extracting bolts.
And some people say that they bend easy but for me that’s a god thing because I rather replace a cheap crank then have a super stiff crank put more force in to the expensive motor.
Quite agree
I have two sets and there affordable to replace
Anyway we don't go bending cranks very often
 
I have 3pairs and they all come with self extracting bolts.
And some people say that they bend easy but for me that’s a god thing because I rather replace a cheap crank then have a super stiff crank put more force in to the expensive motor.
Agree.

My Bosch Gen4 motor is now out of warranty and done over 2,500 miles with no problems whatsoever. If I bend a crank which costs perhaps £30 instead of damaging the motor then that's absolutely fine.
 
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Agree.

My Bosch Gen4 motor is now out of warranty and done over 2,500 miles with no problems whatsoever. If I bend a crank which costs perhaps £30 instead of damaging the motor then that's absolutely fine.
That's a good point!
I have used Miranda Deltas , 5DEV and currently on Pinnd.

The Mirandas were purchased from Amazon and didn't include bolts or self extractors. I bent them riding like a hack to be fair , but I was able to straighten them out with a large hammer and block of wood so I think it's safe to say they are soft , which has both a positive a negative aspect haha.

The 5DEV were the first generation version isis for Bosch. Very stiff , beautifully finished but with one flaw. Doing regular bolt checks , I found that they were coming loose. Not much but enough to re torque them. What was actually happening was each time I re torqued them , they were moving inboard towards the motor on the spline. Eventually the drive side arm was hitting the chainstay protector and the non drive side was rubbing the plastic motor cover. I reported this to 5DEV and after a few months of constant reminders to them , I finally received a replacement set under warranty.
I sold them before fitting them to recoup costs , they were the latest version so I don't know if they suffer the same problem , you'd hope not given the price of the bloody things!

The Pinnd are also quite stiff , also beautifully finished seem to have the widest Q factor of all (The Mirandas were Q16 I think)
 
That's a good point!
I have used Miranda Deltas , 5DEV and currently on Pinnd.

The Mirandas were purchased from Amazon and didn't include bolts or self extractors.

Also bought Mirandas from Amazon without bolts or self extractors, and bought the self extractors separately.

After fitting put some nail polish on them as tell tales so can see if they're loosening.

 
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Yep, I bought 155 Mirandas off Amazon (UK) and they came without any bolts. I planned to use them to prove that I could get on with shorter cranks with a view to upgrading to Hopes if I did. A year later they're still on my bike and still going strong. They bear the usual scars from decking out but other than that have been fine. I can't justify upgrading to lighter cranks as the bike weighs a ton anyway, if I bend or break them I'll probably replace them with Hopes or Pinnd but until then........
 
This guy on YouTube has a take on crank length.

He’s a MTB rider and physical-therapist. He believes that 165mm should be the maximum and 145mm (?)the minimum and explains why.
I see the vid last week, very interesting
 
Installing new cranks, and mainting all current setup (triangle composed of all contact points: saddle/pedal/grips) will require:

#1- update on software, so that the torque sensing is corrected
#2- elevating the saddle to maintain lenght between saddle/pedal
#3- elevating handlebar, to maintain distance between pedal & handlebar

Doing this, will imediatly place your CoG higher, and will lead to other issues (performance).

If you're not into doing #2
you can try your new position, by lowering the saddle by the same lenght you're "cutting" your cranks.

If you're not into doing#3, you can try your new position, by lowering the handlebars by the same lenght you're "cutting" your cranks.


Sure you'll have higher stance and won't hit things so much, but it's not all roses
As someone who's actually done this mod and been riding 155 cranks for over a year (and has been riding mountain bikes since 1989) let me assure you that it pretty much is all roses.
Small adjustment to seat height required as you rightly state but no software changes or adjustments to bar height/positioning required. Centre of gravity change negligible (and certainly not noticeable).
Difference in lack of pedal strikes hugely noticeable, increased knee comfort noticeable, slight change of riding style to get used to the different feel of shorter cranks lasts about ten minutes.
 
It's not an opinion, is just facts.

My opinion?
Try it. It's not that expensive to try using cheap cranks.
I switched crank length on some bikes, and where I found a thrully difference, was on my roadbike (Due to distances - and long time on the saddle - usually 11.000km/year)

On mtbs (riding for over 35years), didn't like the feel of shorter cranks - maybe went to radical.
If you're riding a road bike 11,000km/year then of course also riding a mtb with shorter cranks will be hard because frequently switching between the two different crank lengths must be pretty difficult.

Edit:

You say: "update on software, so that the torque sensing is corrected". How can the Bosch CX Gen4 motor software in my 2022 Trek Rail be changed to take account of shorter cranks?
 
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I thought on the gen4, that if the bike came with 165mm cranks the system was optimized for 165mm or less
I think I read about this on the forum somewhere
 
I did those distances...not now unfortenatly, but yes, now that I think about it, you might be right.

Bosch dealer has the tool to change that.
If you update FlowApp, there is now "eMTB short crank" mode.
As I said you will find that if your bike came with 165mm cranks then the software is already taking into account shorter crank lengths
 
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