SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)

Ktronik said:
sure, air is mostly a insulator, and on the TSDz2 motor, they found that there was a poor 'thermal path' for the heat to travel to the outside, as the hot bits, did not connect to the metal case well, in this case, the parts of the motor was over heating, as it could not dissapte the heat well, in this case of the TSDz2, it would thermal regulate its self.
After heatsinking pads was added. that came in contact with the case, the issue was fixed, not saying this is happening, just it might still be a possablity till we count out.
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Missing a gap pad is just a terrible design but what does that have anything to do with a cold motor? Or are you saying the motor housing being cold is caused potentially by a missing gap pad? That i agree with, thats why im hoping to get some pics to troubleshoot.
 
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92se-r said:
Missing a gap pad is just a terrible design but what does that have anything to do with a cold motor? Or are you saying the motor housing being cold is caused potentially by a missing gap pad? That i agree with, thats why im hoping to get some pics to troubleshoot.
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in this case, I was meaning a cool motor shell, after use, may not mean motor is not overheating some chips on board, as it could be due to unpotted electroincs, it might be a possability till we have a good look inside....

at work we always use a thermal camera so we can tell if we are hitting thermal regulation on the chips we use... if needed we add better thermal paths or extra heatshinking, I know this was the case some motors in the past, so its worth looking into.

I would not expect this to happen on low power, but if on higher power, it happens, then it might be worth looking at

maybe there are some pics of it open around???
 
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when we design LED lighting, we want the case to be warm, this shows we got the heatshinking and thermal path correct, if its cold, then we stuffed up and it will cook itself on the inside...
 
Guys, I see a lot of new versions for firmwares in 36 and 48V but nothing for 43V.
Do you know if we have a recent for 43V?
 
Myalteregohamish said:
Well now it does nothing at all. I’ll power it up in the morning and see if anything’s changed.
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In my experience, if they do not do thermal calculations properly, you can run into overtemp conditions that can compromise thermal transfer pads, depending on which type is used. Some have a soft substrate that can run if it is overtemped, causing an air gap eventually. Thermal grease can also exhibit similar behavior. Thats why i am so interested in taking a look inside the unit.
 
92se-r said:
In my experience, if they do not do thermal calculations properly, you can run into overtemp conditions that can compromise thermal transfer pads, depending on which type is used. Some have a soft substrate that can run if it is overtemped, causing an air gap eventually. Thermal grease can also exhibit similar behavior. Thats why i am so interested in taking a look inside the unit.
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for what is worth its a inrunner motor, at least its not a out runner, so I am guessing this is part does not have a heat issue...

inrunner.jpg
 
92se-r said:
In my experience, if they do not do thermal calculations properly, you can run into overtemp conditions that can compromise thermal transfer pads, depending on which type is used. Some have a soft substrate that can run if it is overtemped, causing an air gap eventually. Thermal grease can also exhibit similar behavior. Thats why i am so interested in taking a look inside the unit.
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I think this is a M820's inside.... worth adding some conformal coating if there is none...

motor M820.jpg
 
patdam said:
You can test the torque sensor functioning ? how ? since the M510 i can't read torque sensor characteristic and calibrate it.
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I just tested both besst function yesterday and its pass the the test. Maybe u can try this. There another motor diagnostic function but i am lazy to test it because i need to rise my rear wheel up n pedal it.

20240208_192219.jpg
 
Is there a way to tune the M820 motor overrun? The motor seems to keep running a second after she stops pedalling.

Sometimes my wife even has to brake while pedalling uphill around a corner :eek:
 
spokemon said:
Is there a way to tune the M820 motor overrun? The motor seems to keep running a second after she stops pedalling.

Sometimes my wife even has to brake while pedalling uphill around a corner :eek:
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Lower the power and u should have this problem solve, i dont feel it on E or reduce acceleration timing by using Bafang go+ or besst.
 
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calvintys said:
Lower the power and u should have this problem or reduce acceleration timing by using Bafang go+ or besst.
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I have the same question to, seems like no matter what the acceleration is at, the over run is still a second after pedaling stops. I also have to use my brake to control it.

Is the 510 the same?
 
Myalteregohamish said:
I have the same question to, seems like no matter what the acceleration is at, the over run is still a second after pedaling stops. I also have to use my brake to control it.

Is the 510 the same?
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which controller software rev you have ? i don't feel that with the 2 48V that i have tested.
 
Myalteregohamish said:
I have the same question to, seems like no matter what the acceleration is at, the over run is still a second after pedaling stops. I also have to use my brake to control it.

Is the 510 the same?
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There is a slight overrun, but not for 1 second. It’s easy to get used to it, just learning to use the extra push to overcome obstacles. I like the behavior very much…
 
Have 2 ebikes for sale. Based on CEF50 and 860Wh (LG 21700-M58). Blue one are L and came with 5A charger, Green one are M and 2A charger. BLue has 70km odo (demo bike), green one 1km odo. They were just for photos and small test for big customer from Saudi Arabia. Could offer green one for 2800 EUR/netto and blue one for 6100 EUR/nett :)
The spec of ble one are neat. incl full carbon parts liek Roval rims, analog carbon handlebar, Lupine Headlight set, wireless shifting :)
Shipping around the world.

20230823_144727.jpg 20230823_143317.jpg
 
thaeber said:
There is a slight overrun, but not for 1 second. It’s easy to get used to it, just learning to use the extra push to overcome obstacles. I like the behavior very much…
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100%. My first bafang emtb also has this and it threw me off at first but now I pedal up to the obstacle (rocks for me), level the pedals, and up and over you go! No pedal strike.
 
giczalec said:
Have 2 ebikes for sale. Based on CEF50 and 860Wh (LG 21700-M58). Blue one are L and came with 5A charger, Green one are M and 2A charger. BLue has 70km odo (demo bike), green one 1km odo. They were just for photos and small test for big customer from Saudi Arabia. Could offer green one for 2800 EUR/netto and blue one for 6100 EUR/nett :)
The spec of ble one are neat. incl full carbon parts liek Roval rims, analog carbon handlebar, Lupine Headlight set, wireless shifting :)
Shipping around the world.

View attachment 134244 View attachment 134245
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Hmm…on FB You offer the blue bike for 5.999€ with 50km on it. Mistake?
 
This is how I prefer to run my M820 on my CEF50👍🏿
20240216_151741.jpg

20240216_151759.jpg

My startup angle is set so that the motor engages instantly. But the acceleration has been dialed back to give the motor more of a natural feeling. I use a 32t chainring and see no point going higher (imo).
Truth be told, I find that I use thr bike overall in level 2-3 (Sport & Sport+). Boost is for riding with full-fat emtbs for fire road climbs👍🏿 20240216_151838.jpg
 
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