Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

wheelsx2 said:
No issues with clearance. It is VERY close though. I can only say that I am confident it fits a large size frame.

The biggest thing for me has been getting anywhere near full travel. So far, the Vivid is working better. I was very happy with the Float X on my Ripley and Ripmos. The large air spring of the vivid is helping with getting more travel. I installed a shock wiz over the weekend and am on my first round of tuning. Removed the 1 stock volume reducer, increase air pressure, less rebound and less LSC. I made all those changes and will ride tomorrow morning.

Because I could, I installed the compression adjuster on the stock Float X. In the process, I discovered that it was set to -4 of 10 from the factory. That could be why I was not getting full travel. Too much compression damping. Once the Vivid is Dialed, I may through the Float X back on and see if that was the case.
Click to expand...
Thanks for feedback, what are your HBO settings on the Vivid? Have you played with that?
 
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Garmin Edge Powermount working through the Smartbox via a custom built cable.


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Bradleybourbon said:
They are having a sale right now. 20% off and it comes with a free pair of socks.
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Nice! Well even at 20% off the e-thirteens Helix cranks are still about $100 Australian dollars cheaper. Its all moot of course as I've already got the e-thirteens, just haven't installed them yet. I'll keep the FORX in mind if it doesn't work out with e-thirteen (y)

The 5Dev cranks are also very nice looking and good option at 155mm as well...

I just think Trek should have spec'ed these with 155mm cranks as standard given that its an e-bike. Yes you get less torque with shorter cranks, but you also have the motor to help you out in that scenario and the low BB in mullet mode is no joke! I know people will say that I need to learn how to ride but at a measured 330mm or so bb height in mullet with 2.4 inch wide tyres that's lower than many XC meat powered bikes!
 
Nugget said:
Nice! Well even at 20% off the e-thirteens Helix cranks are still about $100 Australian dollars cheaper. Its all moot of course as I've already got the e-thirteens, just haven't installed them yet. I'll keep the FORX in mind if it doesn't work out with e-thirteen (y)

The 5Dev cranks are also very nice looking and good option at 155mm as well...

I just think Trek should have spec'ed these with 155mm cranks as standard given that its an e-bike. Yes you get less torque with shorter cranks, but you also have the motor to help you out in that scenario and the low BB in mullet mode is no joke! I know people will say that I need to learn how to ride but at a measured 330mm or so bb height in mullet with 2.4 inch wide tyres that's lower than many XC meat powered bikes!
Click to expand...
I run mullet on my EXe with 160 fork. I was getting a ton of pedal strikes. I put some 155 5Dev cranks on the bike and pedal strikes are now minimal. Highly recommend the 155 5Dev cranks. The 5Dev’s have a much narrower profile than the E-thirteens, which also helps.
 
konamac said:
Thanks for feedback, what are your HBO settings on the Vivid? Have you played with that?
Click to expand...
So far, not needed. I am not much of a hack to flat rider though. Still working on baseline tune. I pulled the 1 volume spacer and need to see how that affects the ride.
 
wizard604 said:
Anyone running a fox X2 shock on their exe? How are you liking it compared to the original shock
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I asked the same thing a few days back. I have a brand new one on the way, that I got really cheap. I’ve done a lot of research and a lot of people are saying the new 2024 X2 is very reliable. It’s essentially a new shock on the inside. And, are saying that the Fox recommended settings are a good starting point. Those recommended settings are based on how much pressure you need to run to get 30% sag. Which really makes sense as a way to come with starting settings to get you close. It no doubt, will be an upgrade from the Float X.
flowmountainbike.com

2024 Fox Float X2 Review | The big hit brawler has returned to its squelch free former glory

Reviewing the Fox Float X2 | With oodles of adjustability and control, the Fox Float X2 is the brand's answer to air suspension for big travel bikes. It seems Fox finally has an answer to keep the air separate from the oil on this long squish rear shock.
flowmountainbike.com flowmountainbike.com
 
I made an interesting observation today. Normally I go on my long loop and only use Eco mode. Today, I decided to see if I could do my whole short loop in High mode. My short loop is an out and back with a mix of moderately technical and flowy singletrack, with a couple short steep pitches and one steep long climb. The long climb is about 900 feet of elevation in 3/4 of a mile. Usually in Eco mode it takes 11% of my battery to climb this hill. Today I climbed it in High mode, in the same gear and used 9% of my battery. Now 1% coud be due to the fact that battery percentage isn’t shown to us in tenths of a percent. So there’s room for some error there. But still, that surprised me. I used less battery to climb the hill in High mode. Although, in High mode I’m covering ground faster than Eco Mode. When I ride in Eco Mode my Average Rider Power is always higher than the Average Motor Power. That’s been a goal of mine. Today in High Mode my Average Motor Power was higher. That could be because in some places in High mode, I just can’t go any faster. In some places, I’m carrying a lot of speed. When I left this morning my estimated mileage in High Mode was 17 miles. I covered 17.4 miles with 16% battery left. It’s nice to know it calculates on the safe side. So, the hill climb got me thinking, there must be a milage sweet spot. I just assumed the Low Mode would always get me further. So, next ride I’ll go out in Mid Mode and see how much battery it uses on the same ride and same long climb. When I do my long loop of 26 miles and 3,000 feet exactly of climbing, in Eco Mode, I get back to the house with about 4% battery left. I’m going to see if I can do the same ride in Mid Mode.


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Canyon Shawn said:
I asked the same thing a few days back. I have a brand new one on the way, that I got really cheap. I’ve done a lot of research and a lot of people are saying the new 2024 X2 is very reliable. It’s essentially a new shock on the inside. And, are saying that the Fox recommended settings are a good starting point. Those recommended settings are based on how much pressure you need to run to get 30% sag. Which really makes sense as a way to come with starting settings to get you close. It no doubt, will be an upgrade from the Float X.
flowmountainbike.com

2024 Fox Float X2 Review | The big hit brawler has returned to its squelch free former glory

Reviewing the Fox Float X2 | With oodles of adjustability and control, the Fox Float X2 is the brand's answer to air suspension for big travel bikes. It seems Fox finally has an answer to keep the air separate from the oil on this long squish rear shock.
flowmountainbike.com flowmountainbike.com
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Thanks for the info... my original plans were to run a Marzocchi Bomber CR coil but there appears to be clearance issues between the frame and the piggy back reservoir. Also the bike maybe be borderline progressive for running a coil. Meaning you likely will need some bottom out control or a progressive spring to make it work properly. So hence the decision to go to the X2. I don't have it mounted yet. Waiting for the 40x8mm shock hardware which has been out of stock in Canada for months now 😪
 
Canyon Shawn said:
I made an interesting observation today. Normally I go on my long loop and only use Eco mode. Today, I decided to see if I could do my whole short loop in High mode. My short loop is an out and back with a mix of moderately technical and flowy singletrack, with a couple short steep pitches and one steep long climb. The long climb is about 900 feet of elevation in 3/4 of a mile. Usually in Eco mode it takes 11% of my battery to climb this hill. Today I climbed it in High mode, in the same gear and used 9% of my battery. Now 1% coud be due to the fact that battery percentage isn’t shown to us in tenths of a percent. So there’s room for some error there. But still, that surprised me. I used less battery to climb the hill in High mode. Although, in High mode I’m covering ground faster than Eco Mode. When I ride in Eco Mode my Average Rider Power is always higher than the Average Motor Power. That’s been a goal of mine. Today in High Mode my Average Motor Power was higher. That could be because in some places in High mode, I just can’t go any faster. In some places, I’m carrying a lot of speed. When I left this morning my estimated mileage in High Mode was 17 miles. I covered 17.4 miles with 16% battery left. It’s nice to know it calculates on the safe side. So, the hill climb got me thinking, there must be a milage sweet spot. I just assumed the Low Mode would always get me further. So, next ride I’ll go out in Mid Mode and see how much battery it uses on the same ride and same long climb. When I do my long loop of 26 miles and 3,000 feet exactly of climbing, in Eco Mode, I get back to the house with about 4% battery left. I’m going to see if I can do the same ride in Mid Mode.


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I've wondered whether using more power for less time (IE a higher speed) is actually more efficient than less power for more time (lower speed).

It probably varies depending on loads of factors,would be nice to have a wh per km data metric to view on the screen
 
Mteam said:
I've wondered whether using more power for less time (IE a higher speed) is actually more efficient than less power for more time (lower speed).
Click to expand...

Mteam said:
When I first got the EXe, I rode a combination of eco, mid and high assist. I later changed to mid and high assist only. I no longer use eco, only mid and high assist. I try to keep the cadence high. I get just as many miles and elevation as before.
Click to expand...
 
ha , forgot I wrote that, but seems its not just me.

There must be a most efficient speed... probably varies a lot depending on various factors.
 
Who is using the TQ app. I noticed today that the Trek central app and TQ app are working totally differtent when adjusting motor settings. The % assistence in the TQ app is totally different vs adjusting the % in the Trek app. Strange.
 
Balboa said:
Who is using the TQ app. I noticed today that the Trek central app and TQ app are working totally differtent when adjusting motor settings. The % assistence in the TQ app is totally different vs adjusting the % in the Trek app. Strange.
Click to expand...
The TQ app is very buggy (or at least the android version is) - the assist percentages displayed at the top of the page next to the "dials" is different to the assist percentage displayed on the slider bars.
 
No had the chance to drain the range extender several times. The changeover is not great but probably just the way it does business. At full charge on both main and RE the display reads 150%. At about 105% the display starts flashing the green status bar. When you get to 100% its seems to hang there for longer than usual then all the power goes out for about 3 seconds. Tricky part is that the torque sensor gets confused and the motor starts making noise. If you shut down the bike to reboot too soon it seems to stay confused. If you wait till the main says 99% then it seems to reboot and work normally. Still trying to get a system worked out that makes the bike and rider happy.

I am still impressed with how much capability the RE has. I am getting over 1300 feet of elevation and using Trail and some Boost.
 
I wonder why Trek’s RE is so clumsy???
Specialized has their REs integrated smoothly.
Can you run both Trek batteries down simultaneously?
 
Nope- the RE takes priority on the drain side and the main battery gets preference on the charge side. The whole 150% thing is a struggle for me as I find myself trying to convert all the time. 100% is just 66% effectively at the changeover. Garmin Connect does not care for it either.
 
Is it not possible to ride with the RE unplugged initially, then if the main battery gets down to, for example, 10%, plug it in then?
 
Swingset said:
Confirm that the lock ring/chainring/cranks are all tight?
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First think i checked when the noise startet.

At First it was very rare.
Few seconds Every now and then.
Later it appears More frequent.
Now Every Ride.

Mostly in Mode 3 and when the Motor is warm.

I don’t Need to put much Force into the Pedal to Make the Motor Sound that way, in my Video i vary my Input Power from much to almost none without having a effect on the Noise.
 
Decolocsta said:
First think i checked when the noise startet.

At First it was very rare.
Few seconds Every now and then.
Later it appears More frequent.
Now Every Ride.

Mostly in Mode 3 and when the Motor is warm.

I don’t Need to put much Force into the Pedal to Make the Motor Sound that way, in my Video i vary my Input Power from much to almost none without having a effect on the Noise.
Click to expand...
I'd say take it back to the dealer. I'm thinking that sounds like a new motor though.
 
Decolocsta said:
First think i checked when the noise startet.

At First it was very rare.
Few seconds Every now and then.
Later it appears More frequent.
Now Every Ride.

Mostly in Mode 3 and when the Motor is warm.

I don’t Need to put much Force into the Pedal to Make the Motor Sound that way, in my Video i vary my Input Power from much to almost none without having a effect on the Noise.
Click to expand...
Let us know what happens. Mine just started a very similar noise and circumstance. The shop has the video and are looking into it. And yep, everything is tight and the software is up to date.
 

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Canyon Shawn said:
I made an interesting observation today. Normally I go on my long loop and only use Eco mode. Today, I decided to see if I could do my whole short loop in High mode. My short loop is an out and back with a mix of moderately technical and flowy singletrack, with a couple short steep pitches and one steep long climb. The long climb is about 900 feet of elevation in 3/4 of a mile. Usually in Eco mode it takes 11% of my battery to climb this hill. Today I climbed it in High mode, in the same gear and used 9% of my battery. Now 1% coud be due to the fact that battery percentage isn’t shown to us in tenths of a percent. So there’s room for some error there. But still, that surprised me. I used less battery to climb the hill in High mode. Although, in High mode I’m covering ground faster than Eco Mode. When I ride in Eco Mode my Average Rider Power is always higher than the Average Motor Power. That’s been a goal of mine. Today in High Mode my Average Motor Power was higher. That could be because in some places in High mode, I just can’t go any faster. In some places, I’m carrying a lot of speed. When I left this morning my estimated mileage in High Mode was 17 miles. I covered 17.4 miles with 16% battery left. It’s nice to know it calculates on the safe side. So, the hill climb got me thinking, there must be a milage sweet spot. I just assumed the Low Mode would always get me further. So, next ride I’ll go out in Mid Mode and see how much battery it uses on the same ride and same long climb. When I do my long loop of 26 miles and 3,000 feet exactly of climbing, in Eco Mode, I get back to the house with about 4% battery left. I’m going to see if I can do the same ride in Mid Mode.


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I had a similar experience a few weeks ago. A trail I ride called Lost Valley in Missouri, is about 21 miles with about 1300 feet of elevation change. Pretty flowy and flat. I typically ride it in Trail (mid) mode and use about 60% of my battery. The other day I rode with a buddy on a full fat eBike and I rode everything in High mode. I only used 5% more battery (65%).
that surprised me. I was riding about 15 minutes faster than usual so the Ride time has something to do with it. The fact the trail is a fast XC trail also seems to make a difference. The other day I was on a more technical trail and rode 22 miles in high mode. There I used 93% of the battery where I would have used about 70-75% in trail mode.
 
wheelsx2 said:
Figured out an annoying rattle in the frame. The connectors under the display. I wrapped some packing foam around them to alleviate the issue. Worked like a charm.
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I've been chasing a rattle/knocking sound for a while and I thought it was that. Local hardware store had some upholstery foam scrap blocks that were free- easy to remove the display and stuff a few of those into the void behind the head tube.

That did quiet my bike down some, but I still have a knocking sound that I think is my Ohlins shock (well due for a rebuild). I have a year on the bike now and my remote failed recently, picking it up today after warranty replacement. That's taken a week and I've done a few rides on my hardtail, OUCH.
 
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