Vitus E-Mythique LT Enduro EMTB - Bargain of the year

[Zimmerframe]

May be so and the bike was 2 km test drive driven. Now wondering should i go test drive with it with that fork or not... I'm 177 and L size seems to fit nice saddle post is just lover position. Some small problems with the saddle post cabel but I fixed it.

It might be that the motor is run 2km on a Dyno at the factory. Mine showed no signs of actually being ridden.

The most noticeable thing on mine with the fork to test easily is high speed compression. Any drop, even just bunny hop the bike, pop the front and land and it's solid., zero movement.

 

[Tubby G]

There are many online videos of ‘dream builds’ with no expense spared, but all they offer is bike porn as many of us wouldn’t spend so much cash on a bike that ultimately loses value faster than Mo Farah in the 5000m.

What you could be on to here Mr Zimmer is a ‘dream budget build’ which is far more realistic. Do you accept the challenge?

 

[Zimmerframe]

What you could be on to here Mr Zimmer is a ‘dream budget build’ which is far more realistic. Do you accept the challenge?

Totally agree with everything you're saying !

I think @Deriuqer's build it trying to fit that criteria .. Not sure what their or @Anssi's full spec is yet but I think following the same ideology, I'm guessing there are several others.

Hoping to do something similar !!!

 

[Deriuqer]

I won't be able to do a dream build video, but I'll try to take pictures of the various steps.
@Tubby G My build will be a budget build in a way that I will use special offers, mostly from RCZ. So, the parts I will use might not look that cheap at first glance.

 

[Deriuqer]

Rough plan:
- Damper: Fox FLOAT X Performance Elite
- Fork: Rockshox Zeb Select+ (2023) or Fox 38 Factory (both with 170mm)
- Brakes: Formula Cura 4 or Magura MT5

Because I want to reduce the weight, additional changes might be:
- Stem: Newmen Evolution SL 318.4 40mm
- Bar: Newmen Evolution SL 318.25 (Cut down to 780mm)
- Grips: tbd (for personal preferences only, not for weight reduction)
- Front wheel: Dt Swiss EX 1700 (I don't see any reason to ride a special emtb wheel in the front but for aesthetics to have similar rims front and back.) If I find a good offer, I might switch to Newmen SL A.30
- Rear wheel: tbd
- Saddle: tbd
- Seatpost: tbd
- Cranks: tbd | The original look heavy but I do not have any experience with emtb cranks and the various standards

 

[Zimmerframe]

Found my first annoying thing ! The speed sensor magnet is secured with a "security" T20 (it has the little bump, so needs the bit with the hole in). Bafang might have done this to stop people stealing/messing with the magnet. Might be worth swapping the screw out though for something you have on your multitool incase you have trailside issues (could possibly do it with pliers too).

Early in the thread there were concerns that the E-Mythique had lower a lower standard of welding than the E-Sommet for example. I was looking to see if the linkage/rocker could be swapped (Gain travel) and at the same time ended up comparing pictures :

E-Sommet :

E-Mythique :

 

[Zimmerframe]

Rough plan:
- Damper: Fox FLOAT X Performance Elite
- Fork: Rockshox Zeb Select+ (2023) or Fox 38 Factory (both with 170mm)
- Brakes: Formula Cura 4 or Magura MT5

Because I want to reduce the weight, additional changes might be:
- Stem: Newmen Evolution SL 318.4 40mm
- Bar: Newmen Evolution SL 318.25 (Cut down to 780mm)
- Grips: tbd (for personal preferences only, not for weight reduction)
- Front wheel: Dt Swiss EX 1700 (I don't see any reason to ride a special emtb wheel in the front but for aesthetics to have similar rims front and back.) If I find a good offer, I might switch to Newmen SL A.30
- Rear wheel: tbd
- Saddle: tbd
- Seatpost: tbd
- Cranks: tbd | The original look heavy but I do not have any experience with emtb cranks and the various standards

Sounds amazing !

The Cura's would be nice !!

Cranks you might struggle with. One issue with the M510 was finding cranks - these ones are pretty nice for Bafang Cranks !! . I think Miranda do some now.

 

[Deriuqer]

Found my first annoying thing ! The speed sensor magnet is secured with a "security" T20 (it has the little bump, so needs the bit with the hole in). Bafang might have done this to stop people stealing/messing with the magnet. Might be worth swapping the screw out though for something you have on your multitool incase you have trailside issues (could possibly do it with pliers too).

Early in the thread there were concerns that the E-Mythique had lower a lower standard of welding than the E-Sommet for example. I was looking to see if the linkage/rocker could be swapped (Gain travel) and at the same time ended up comparing pictures :

E-Sommet :

View attachment 124512

E-Mythique :

View attachment 124513

I have been thinking the same, if it would be possible to use Sommet's rocker link. Since I haven't found it as a spare part, I haven't followed this idea any further.

 

[Zimmerframe]

It's not much, but 200kms

No issues other than the one brief lack of assistance which I think was the speed sensor.

Tested amps today. Peak in B and R was 18.98,.call it 19. The battery also charged to 42 today so peaks of 798w.

Peak in T was 17 Amps.

Voltage before ride :

It also got to 100% charge. Light went green .. but carried on pulling 200ma as it cell balanced.

Did a short climb today where I struggle with the Jam2, it went up like it was flat. Climbs like a goat.

Been staying away from the usual fun trails, the fork is just painful.

Tried a cheapo phone mount on the stem.(Needed to for monitoring current) Works well, doesn't obscure the display.. GUB G-85. Suspect pre load was torqued too tight, but they may have tightened the top cap afterwards.

Ordered a 120 link SRAM PC1130 11 speed chain to try on the Microshift. Should be fairly strong and long lasting. Slightly thinner plates than the 10 speed other than that all the spacings are the same.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

Tried a cheapo phone mount on the stem.(Needed to for monitoring current) Works well, doesn't obscure the display.. GUB G-85. .

I've used a couple of these over the years in different off road vehicles and have been really pleased with them. Very secure and well built for the money.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

Early in the thread there were concerns that the E-Mythique had lower a lower standard of welding than the E-Sommet for example. I was looking to see if the linkage/rocker could be swapped (Gain travel) and at the same time ended up comparing pictures :

I was comparing geo's between the Mythique and the Sommet the other day and they are strikingly similar.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Waiting for forks, brakes, pedals, chain so quickly swapped the Lyric 180's with 27.5 on .

180/160 27.5/27.5 E-Mythique :

WOW ! What a bike ! Agile, flickable. Really rideable ! Those faulty Suntours are super scary. So nice to be able to ride fast on things, pop off things, drop off things, turn without the front randomly washing out.

The bike felt a lot like the Kenevo with that fork on, plus the setup was over 1kg lighter !!! Will update the fork shock thread with more info.

Plus a PR on a climb (In Race mode) - so the M510 can pull more than the Brose/Gen4.

 

[mustclime]

This bike is reminding me of my old car club days. I was in a car club that rented race tracks for track days. There were the fast guys in the v8’s and Porsches and there were the guys with old civis and Miata’s that they had dumped $20-$50k into. These guys did it just so they could say “ I’m almost as fast as a vette or 911”. When you sat down and added up the money spent, they could have bought the cars they were trying to beat on the track.

 

[Zimmerframe]

This bike is reminding me of my old car club days. I was in a car club that rented race tracks for track days. There were the fast guys in the v8’s and Porsches and there were the guys with old civis and Miata’s that they had dumped $20-$50k into. These guys did it just so they could say “ I’m almost as fast as a vette or 911”. When you sat down and added up the money spent, they could have bought the cars they were trying to beat on the track.

As long as it's giving you some joy reminiscing

Not sure of the connection though ? The VRS in stock form is as capable as a Strive:ON or Kenevo (from someone who's ridden them).

Mine has a totally crap fork (suspected not working as in this day and age it would be hard to design a fork that bad), so swapping it out to test (which has dropped the nose by 20mm, involved changing from a 29 front to a 27.5 front and changed the geometry so it's nowhere near optimum) shows that the bike actually rides great - so with a stock working fork, it should also be great.

Yes, I wanted to prove that you can buy a none stupid priced bike, leave it stock and just ride and enjoy it. Sadly the sh1te fork doesn't enable that at the moment.

Like we also said earlier in the thread, some people have specific parts they prefer. No matter what bike they buy, they'll change them. Others just like to try different things and make it theirs. You know this is a bike forum ? It's where lots of people exchange ideas and wonder what will make their bike BETTER - because it's something lots like to do.

Talking of Forums, you also know that repeatedly commenting negatively in threads that don't even remotely interest you is generally called Trolling ? Unless of course you're just worried that the bike might actually be ok and people might actually enjoy riding their bikes ? Which would mean all your pre-conceived ideas about the bike, which you have no experience with, are wrong .. and maybe ... your more expensive bike is only as good as a cheaper bike ...

 

[Zimmerframe]

Boring bits :

Tubes 332g.

Tubeless valves 5g.

Stock rear wheel/tyre/tube/cassette (10 speed steel lump), 2.3 mm disk : 3950g

Stock front wheel/tyre/tube/disk : 2720g

Zeron with caliper/no axle - also 2720g - presumably made of magnesilead. (Edit 2520g for fork with axle, no caliper, no mudguard)

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

I am currently in the market for a new bike. I almost pulled the trigger on a YT Decoy MX because of the incredible sale they are currently having but this bike keeps nagging at my brain.

This bike is not so much about being cheap as it is longevity for me. The Decoy uses a Shimano motor. After talking to the only place in the US that rebuilds and services ebike motors they no longer service Shimano motors. So once something happens and your out of warranty you are forced to buy a new motor ($$$) if you can even find one.

With this bike the options are limitless. Parts are surprisingly cheap and readily available. New motors and batteries are surprisingly cheap too. I have no doubt the bike will be servicable for years to come.

 

[Zimmerframe]

This bike is not so much about being cheap as it is longevity for me.

This was the main driver for me. Yes, I can get my Brose repaired, but you can't get the Spesh batteries re-built and the ones they sell seem to be old stock, so it will die at some point. I did consider a new Kenevo, but that's end of life now and the next gen Levo is different, so there will be obsolescence again with batteries. The Bosch gen4 is a great motor, but the circuit board gets destroyed with moisture ingress and then it's new motor time. I had a Voima lined up as the next toy with Trick stuff and so on, but got fed up waiting for the fancy wheels and just got bored of it and I'm not sure I want to be stuck with a Bosch Smart system down the line. The Shimano's ... enough has been said.

I wanted something with a motor I could repair/replace easily. With a battery system I could either re-build or replace down the line, possibly upgrading it later.

On a bike with decent geometry. The bikes with the Polini motors appealed, but I still don't think you'd have the same longevity of the source bike down the line due to battery availability/upgradability in the future.

I might be sitting swearing at it trailside in a weeks time, but that could happen with any bike. In the meantime, I have a bike I'm actually interested in, which seems amazingly well put together, finally is showing some of it's riding potential and I have a new bike which out climbs the Kenevo.

 

[B1rdie]

I already knew it! Since David Bowie’s little china girl, that in the end Xi wins and we all gonna need to learn mandarin to source our bikes.

 

[Deriuqer]

This bike is reminding me of my old car club days. I was in a car club that rented race tracks for track days. There were the fast guys in the v8’s and Porsches and there were the guys with old civis and Miata’s that they had dumped $20-$50k into. These guys did it just so they could say “ I’m almost as fast as a vette or 911”. When you sat down and added up the money spent, they could have bought the cars they were trying to beat on the track.

I see your point, but at the very first day, you could have bought the cheapest model for 2699€ because of a wrong price in the bikster online shop. I combined that with a discount code, so I paid only ~2335€ (incl. shipping). That ist hard to beat.

 

[Deriuqer]

Boring bits :

Tubes 332g.

Tubeless valves 5g.

Stock rear wheel/tyre/tube/cassette (10 speed steel lump), 2.3 mm disk : 3950g

Stock front wheel/tyre/tube/disk : 2720g

Zeron with caliper/no axle - also 2720g - presumably made of magnesilead.

Good to know that by swapping the fork, I will save ~300g for sure.
Thanks a lot for the information!

 

[Zimmerframe]

The TRP's arrived.

The TRP Slate EVO calipers appear to be virtually identical to the Tektro 4 pots apart from the brake line mounting and the right hand half on the TRP's aligning better with the left side. Maybe the oil ways pass round both sides of the caliper on the TRP's ? :

The TRP levers much more closely resemble a Zee/XT style lever, unlike the Tektro one - so fingers crossed we have a bit more power. The Zee's on the 27.5 obviously feel considerably more effective than the Tektro's.

TRP Caliper with 180/200 adapter and front hose was 224g. TRP lever is 121g.

Found 5 minutes to swap the 29 front wheel to tubeless. The front Vee came off far more easily (by hand on and off) than the heavier rear Vee (struggled to persuade it out of the bead) . The supplied valves seem decent enough, but they need to be more than finger tight to pull the tapered seal in.

Going faster yesterday and last night produced a large increase in the number of Ghost shifts when under power (you wouldn't notice when not pedalling...), I also backed the B-screw off slightly too see if that helped, but I think that made it worse. I eventually started tracking gears and it wasn't delayed or random changes, it was rough terrain either causing the chain to slip or most likely the derailleur to move as if shifting and then return. I had something similar in the Kenevo at the start and had to play with the cable routing as the suspension movement was inducing ghost shifts from cable tension.

It could also be something to do with the way the Microshifts ratchet clutch works. I get about 5mm of play before it hits a ratchet, which allows some chain movement. You can increase clutch tension by removing the cover and tightening the screw, but that won't change the movement allowed between ratchets.

I need to check the cable routing and also try an 11 speed XT derailleur (don't have anything deore lying around which would fit more with the "eco" pricing theme..) - I think the pull ratio is the same with the Microshift Advent as the Shimano 11 speed - So it would be the same as the 10 Speed Shimano Cues system and presumably then also Linkglide.

And finally...

Lots of frame clearance with fully compressed rear :

 

[Zimmerframe]

Rear Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select R Trunnion, 205*65. (VR & VRS stock shock).

First few rides, this felt awful, seemed fair to expect that with the fork not working. Slowed re-bound one click and it felt a bit better.

With a working fork it felt MUCH better without changing anything. But, it still felt a bit harsh on fast square edged hits.

I'd set it with about 30% sag, which was 135 PSI. Rockshox suggested about 141PSI.

I wasn't sure which way to go with it as the only adjustment is rebound so you can't change high speed compression. Do you keep the same pressure, take out a token and make it more linear and work on the theory that the square edge thunk is part way through the stroke, or reduce pressure, add tokens to make it more progressive and work on the theory that the square edge thunk is earlier in the stroke, but the tokens lower the air volume so you don't bottom out.

The easiest thing to do was just drop the pressure to 120PSI and see.

Keep in mind I want to try and get this to feel as close as possible to an Ohlins TTX22 Coil, if I can't do that, I'll probably end up swapping to a coil.

Tonights trails were nothing crazy. Lots of fast jiggly bits, fast and rocky bits and a few fast jumps and drops which are probably only about a meter high. When you do hit rocks, you hit them pretty hard. After two runs both times I'd used 90% rear travel and 70% front (180 fork off the Kenevo). However, the rear actually felt AMAZING ! It soaked up everything, even the nasty root lips off a couple of drops which normally kick you.

Therefore, maybe the stock shock actually has potential with this bike. Need to order some negative tokens , add, ride, see.

23 Rockshox Deluxe Select (RS-DLX-SEL-C1) Volume Spacer code : 11.4118.051.005

The bike on the whole :

Really impressed with everything about how it felt tonight. I had this crazy dream that I wanted the stability of the Jam2 (hardly ever fall off it) with the speed, ability and agility of the Kenevo - but without it's murderous nature (fall off it extensively). It really did feel like a blending of the two bikes. Hopefully the Zeb and a 29 Front will just improve that even more.

Microshift shifter keeps growing on me, I use the triple shift (often twice) extensively.

Latest Anomalies :

Ghost Shifting was far less tonight after cycling the rear through it's full range, still felt it go slightly twice though. Deore M5100 Shadow+ (clutch) 11 speed is about €35 so might get one as a spare/to try/stock. It's about half the price of a Microshift Derailleur if/when I wreck that.

Twice now I've had a weird thing where power drops off lots. It's as if the torque sensor re-calibrates (incorrectly) mid ride. Switch modes and they all stay proportional to each other, but check the Watts and you're getting about 30%. The first time it went back to normal after about 30 seconds. Today I didn't wait and tried turning it off and on, which then confuses it more and gives you no assistance as you're riding along - so you have to stop, turn it off and on and voila, it works again. I haven't tried just switching it to 0 to see if that re-calibrates it. Could be something to do with the ghost shifts giving a strange torque reaction back through the chainring.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

I need to check the cable routing and also try an 11 speed XT derailleur (don't have anything deore lying around which would fit more with the "eco" pricing theme..) - I think the pull ratio is the same with the Microshift Advent as the Shimano 11 speed - So it would be the same as the 10 Speed Shimano Cues system and presumably then also Linkglide.

If I wind up with one it'll get xt linkglide, but the 10 speed cues stuff is very appealing. I currently have standard xt on my bike and would love to be able to shift under load.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805610727055.html?aff_fcid=388ce669aaea43df9682c0e8d11ab999-1694656818323-01881-_DF0yo8r&tt=CPS_NORMAL&aff_fsk=_DF0yo8r&aff_platform=shareComponent-detail&sk=_DF0yo8r&aff_trace_key=388ce669aaea43df9682c0e8d11ab999-1694656818323-01881-_DF0yo8r&terminal_id=ded390fd4b1a483d95659f33fa88760e&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

 

[Zimmerframe]

Nothing exciting really ... Tightened the clutch on the Microshift (questionable if it makes any difference).

Hit 300k. No issues. No further power drops or spikes.

Motor has got quieter over that period and is now quieter than the Bosch.

Microshift works well still. Zero Ghost shifts today, but was E+ testing and trying to be calmer rather than flat out.

T is quite addictive and makes you want to go faster and faster all the time.

E+ range worked out at 1km per % today on average/flatter trails. That would drop on steeper terrain.

The bike itself, might be the honeymoon period, but it feels like it stays on line better and changes line better than the Kenevo or the Jam2, even though it has the Kenevo fork/wheel. So could be total B/S Does feel like a far more stable platform than either no matter what you're doing and easier to recover when you are off line.

Nukeproof pedals have arrived. Never tried them before but was trying to stay Nukeproof/Vitus where possible with this bike just for the sake of it.

11 Speed chain as arrived so can swap that over.

The SICOM two part rear mudguard doesn't fit for anyone who does want to try it.

 

[Shjay]

Boring bits :

Tubes 332g.

Tubeless valves 5g.

Stock rear wheel/tyre/tube/cassette (10 speed steel lump), 2.3 mm disk : 3950g

Stock front wheel/tyre/tube/disk : 2720g

Zeron with caliper/no axle - also 2720g - presumably made of magnesilead.

About the same weight as a set of Hope Fortus wheels

 

[Deriuqer]

Should there be a bolt?
I am preparing my bike for a first ride and checking all the bolts.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Should there be a bolt?
I am preparing my bike for a first ride and checking all the bolts.View attachment 124927

I have the same hole. It looks blanked off, II guess it's for a mounting a different chain guide or guard :

 

[Zimmerframe]

Just swapped out the Noddy XLC freeby pedals for the Nukeproof somethings (didn't pay a lot of attention).

The freeby's do work, but they're a bit clunky .. and heavy :

Also swapped over the 10 Speed KMC chain for the SRAM 11 Speed PC1130 solid link 120 link chain and removed three links.

Just for reference the 11 Speed SRAM chain was 4g lighter !!

Anyone using the Microshift, I've noticed that the adjustment screws seem to be doing their own thing !! Especially the B screw one !! So loctite or superglue your threads.

By my maths, I must be down to about a 17kg or 18kg build by now... (If you don't count the back wheel/front wheel or fork .. They're all kind of touching the ground so don't actually weigh anything ..... )

Ignoring random maths ..

Did a quick weigh in. Now tubeless, lighter pedals, 4g lighter chain....., Kenevo's 180 forks/wheel/tyre.

24.7kg. Therefore, 200g more than the Kenevo with a 500wh battery and 1kg less than the Focus Jam2 6.9 150/150.

This will jump up about 300g when it gets it's Zeb and 29" front.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Jumping briefly back to the question of can you convert the spoke magnet to a disk magnet.

This was on one of the DIY builds yesterday, a custom mount :

A build worthy of admiring in it's own right. Lyric, 900wh battery, 18.45kg !

M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)

has anyone tried running the 930 in a mullet setup with 29 front and 27.5 rear? I'm going to build my one in a mullet, with a 170mm fork up front on my wife's and 180 on my build, coil shock rear and I'm looking at 160mm crank arms. I ordered the frame and motor 20 days ago (but paint will be a...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Deriuqer]

First ride today. Mostly on alphalt and no real mountainbike terrain.
The fork is just a waste of resources. Rebound seems to have infinite clicks and compression sometimes and only in one direction. The front tire seems to have better shock absorption than the fork.
I will open a warranty case. Fortunately my Fox 38 came yesterday. So I will be able to swap forks.
I definitely need to ride more to get a better impression of the bike.