Someone will do something it has to be a common problem. I got ten metres from my house when the first motor went caput so couple weeks waiting for new one with full battery.
Do's and Don'ts for e-bike battery care. What do you do to keep your battery performing at its best?
- Thread starter RiderOnTheStorm
- Start date
I'm not sure if enough people realise you shouldn't leave them at full charge for it to become a mainstream issue that needs solving.
MasterDabber
Active member
This has been interesting. I've learnt a lot.... just pleased my initial question perhaps wasn't so dumb.
RiderOnTheStorm
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #214
Glad you asked your question
... because there's no such thing as the wrong question! 
RiderOnTheStorm
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #215
Fully charging the battery in anticipation of a long ride that gets canceled, and then having the battery sit at 100% for some time, is definitely something I'd try to avoid! 
Some "safe" ways to partially discharge the battery to a storage charge level in my opinion:
Some "safe" ways to partially discharge the battery to a storage charge level in my opinion:
- Go ride around the block in Turbo mode for 30 min or so. You can increase resistance by riding against the wind, or carrying a heavy payload!
- Remove the battery from the bike and ask a friend with a similar bike setup to go ride with your battery.
- Put the bike on a workstand (or lift the rear wheel off the ground), and keep pressing on the Walk Assist button with a clamp. This could take many hours though!
- With a Bosch battery, ask your LBS/Bosch dealer to use the discharge function on a bosch BCT (Battery Capacity Tester) to safely discharge the battery.
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The worst thing you can do to a li-ion battery is storing it fully charged. I charge my bike at night before ride. After ride if it's discharged to less tha 30% I charge it to ~60%. After first 1500 km (10 months) battery is like new. I can make 60-75 km 1500-1650m. I'm 78 kg, bike Spectral On 720 Wh, mix eco and trail. Never tried 100% eco.
Age and using a battery will degrade it, same as us people.
Leaving it stored in a discharged state will kill it for sure.
Battery Management Systems are getting better all the time, they manage the battery so we don’t have to, you can’t overcharge a battery or discharge to absolute zero in use.
Most batteries should still be working just fine, even if they’ve lost a little capacity, for the useful life of the bike.
I think we should ride more and worry less! Worse case scenario, a replacement battery is about the same price as a good set of forks, and we don’t seem to complain about replacing those too much, even when we don’t need to!
Leaving it stored in a discharged state will kill it for sure.
Battery Management Systems are getting better all the time, they manage the battery so we don’t have to, you can’t overcharge a battery or discharge to absolute zero in use.
Most batteries should still be working just fine, even if they’ve lost a little capacity, for the useful life of the bike.
I think we should ride more and worry less! Worse case scenario, a replacement battery is about the same price as a good set of forks, and we don’t seem to complain about replacing those too much, even when we don’t need to!
RiderOnTheStorm
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #219
Thanks @adam89pl for sharing your charging practices! 
While leaving the battery fully charged over time (in storage for example) can degrade the cells, keeping the battery in a deep discharged state will actually do irreversible damage to the cells up to the point that the battery is no longer usable and will need to be replaced.
While leaving the battery fully charged over time (in storage for example) can degrade the cells, keeping the battery in a deep discharged state will actually do irreversible damage to the cells up to the point that the battery is no longer usable and will need to be replaced.
Yes, it's true. I forgot to mention this case.
RiderOnTheStorm
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #221
I think @Alexbn921 and @RipGroove brought up a good point about letting the battery cool off after a ride before recharging it.
From my end, I also let the battery cool down a bit (for 1 hr or so) if I recharge it right before going for a ride.
Really appreciate everyone's feedback on the topic. Went ahead and updated the "suggested charging best practices" post I started earlier. Latest version below. Comments always welcome!
www.emtbforums.com
Updated link
From my end, I also let the battery cool down a bit (for 1 hr or so) if I recharge it right before going for a ride.
Really appreciate everyone's feedback on the topic. Went ahead and updated the "suggested charging best practices" post I started earlier. Latest version below. Comments always welcome!
Do's and Don'ts for e-bike battery care. What do you do to keep your battery performing at its best?
To squeeze more useful cycles out of my battery, I've been fine tuning my charging routine based on all your helpful tips and inputs 🍻 thanks! So here goes, 🆕 SUGGESTED E-BIKE BATTERY CHARGING BEST PRACTICES ✅ Charge to 80% before most rides, or charge to 100% just before a long ride. After...
www.emtbforums.com
Updated link
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RiderOnTheStorm
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #222
While lithium-ion batteries naturally degrade (or age) over time, finding the root causes of abnormal battery degradations or failure is not trivial due to the sheer complexity of battery technologies and the many factors affecting battery lifespan and condition.
We know by now that battery health issues can often be linked to battery care and maintenance. But is the degradation happening gradually over the life of the battery, or quickly and unexpectedly? What are early signs and causes of accelerated battery wear, which could lead to battery failure and require a costly battery replacement?
Interested in this topic, I've gathered a list of common battery problems along with potential causes (and remedies) which have helped me so far. Here it is.
COMMON BATTERY ISSUES
TIP #1 - CHECKING BATTERY HEALTH
I would check the health of the battery by measuring its voltage over time and inspecting the battery temperature.
To do that with my Bosch-powered bikes, I would have my LBS periodically run a full motor and battery diagnostic report to gather state of health or capacity, voltage, min and max temps. Some dealers use a BCT (Battery Capacity Tester) tool to assess battery health.
I would keep a history of the measurements collected over time, starting when the bike/battery was new for comparative analysis and early detection of any abnormal degradations.
TIP #2 - FINDING DEGRADATION CAUSES
If battery health % or capacity measured seem lower than expected, I would try to identify the causes or culprits of an accelerated (abnormal) degradation and then make corrective actions.
I would try to assess the severity of the degradation and determine if the battery is failing (and may need to be replaced) or if I just need to improve how I take care of my battery going forward. See best practices and tips for battery care here.
Keep in mind though that a 5 to 10% capacity loss over 3 years, or a 10 to 20% capacity loss over 6 years when given proper care, could be considered 'normal'. Refer to your battery warranty conditions to find out the capacity guaranteed by the manufacturer over a given number of years.
I've outlined below some of the major degradation causes for batteries, sorted by severity (from more to less severe):
TIP #3 - READING BATTERY ERROR CODES AND FLASHING LEDS
Understanding the error code shown on the bike display or the blinking lights on the battery itself is critical for troubleshooting battery issues.
If the ebike shows a battery-related error code on the bike display/controller, or if I notice flashing LED lights on the battery pack, I would check the battery manufacturer's Customer Support or Help Center site to find details about the error, what could be causing it, and what corrective actions I should take.
As an example, here is a link to the Bosch support site where you can search a specific error code and find details about it. Each manufacturer offers a similar service.
www.bosch-ebike.com
I've listed below common battery-related error codes and LED flash codes for the Bosch CX Gen 4 non-smart motorization.
ERROR CODES - Bosch battery
TIP #4 - RESETTING THE BATTERY
To clear a battery related error, I would try resetting the battery. With Bosch batteries, after removing the battery from the bike, a battery reset is done by pressing and holding the battery power button for 10 seconds and then reinstalling the battery in the bike.
If the power button is not immediately visible or accessible, you may need to use a tool e.g. screwdriver, small punch or thin rod, to reach and gently press the power button through the hole or opening in the battery cover.
TIP #5 - CONSULT YOUR EBIKE OWNER'S MANUAL
Read what your ebike/battery manufacturer says about battery care, maintenance and problem troubleshooting. Take a look at this post for manufacturers guides and other resources available to e-bike owners.
TIP #6 - ASK A PROFESSIONAL
Always reach out to your nearest bike shop/dealer or battery manufacturer for professional expertise and assistance with using your battery, troubleshooting or resolving battery-related issues. Don't rely on contents posted on social media and public forums for professional advice. In other words, take everything you read or watch on social media with a grain of salt!
We know by now that battery health issues can often be linked to battery care and maintenance. But is the degradation happening gradually over the life of the battery, or quickly and unexpectedly? What are early signs and causes of accelerated battery wear, which could lead to battery failure and require a costly battery replacement?
Interested in this topic, I've gathered a list of common battery problems along with potential causes (and remedies) which have helped me so far. Here it is.
SUGGESTED E-BIKE BATTERY CARE AND TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS
COMMON BATTERY ISSUES
- Battery doesn’t take you as far as it did when it was new.
- Battery health % or capacity is decreasing abnormally and battery feels like it's draining faster.
- Battery doesn’t charge as fast as it did when it was new, or cannot be fully charged.
- Battery is not holding or maintaining its charge.
- Battery generates error codes on the bike's display or controller.
- Blinking LEDs (or no lights at all) on the battery pack.
TIP #1 - CHECKING BATTERY HEALTH
I would check the health of the battery by measuring its voltage over time and inspecting the battery temperature.
To do that with my Bosch-powered bikes, I would have my LBS periodically run a full motor and battery diagnostic report to gather state of health or capacity, voltage, min and max temps. Some dealers use a BCT (Battery Capacity Tester) tool to assess battery health.
I would keep a history of the measurements collected over time, starting when the bike/battery was new for comparative analysis and early detection of any abnormal degradations.
TIP #2 - FINDING DEGRADATION CAUSES
If battery health % or capacity measured seem lower than expected, I would try to identify the causes or culprits of an accelerated (abnormal) degradation and then make corrective actions.
I would try to assess the severity of the degradation and determine if the battery is failing (and may need to be replaced) or if I just need to improve how I take care of my battery going forward. See best practices and tips for battery care here.
Keep in mind though that a 5 to 10% capacity loss over 3 years, or a 10 to 20% capacity loss over 6 years when given proper care, could be considered 'normal'. Refer to your battery warranty conditions to find out the capacity guaranteed by the manufacturer over a given number of years.
I've outlined below some of the major degradation causes for batteries, sorted by severity (from more to less severe):
- Time spent at very low state of charge. Has the battery been over-discharged (10% or less) while in use or left discharged in storage for an extended time period? Has the battery often been recharged from very low charge levels, basically running the battery nearly empty on most rides?
Time spent in very low temperatures. Has the battery been charged, discharged (ridden) or stored at low temperatures below 0°C (32°F)?
Time spent in high temperatures. Has the battery been charged, discharged (ridden) or stored above 35°C (95°F) heat?
Time spent at very high state of charge. Has the battery been left fully charged (100%) for a long period of time?
Number of charging cycles. Has the battery reached or exceeded the max number of useful charge cycles per the manufacturer warranty limit? See here.
High charging current. Has the battery often been charged using a fast charger (6A-10A) rather than a 2A or 4A charger?
High discharging current. Has the bike been ridden with the highest motor assistance most of the time e.g in Turbo mode all the time?
Battery age/cell aging. How old is the battery? Find the age of your Bosch battery here. Has the battery exceeded the number of years under warranty? See here. Was the battery left on the shelves for several years before getting sold to the customer or being fitted in the bike?
TIP #3 - READING BATTERY ERROR CODES AND FLASHING LEDS
Understanding the error code shown on the bike display or the blinking lights on the battery itself is critical for troubleshooting battery issues.
If the ebike shows a battery-related error code on the bike display/controller, or if I notice flashing LED lights on the battery pack, I would check the battery manufacturer's Customer Support or Help Center site to find details about the error, what could be causing it, and what corrective actions I should take.
As an example, here is a link to the Bosch support site where you can search a specific error code and find details about it. Each manufacturer offers a similar service.
Help Center
www.bosch-ebike.com
ERROR CODES - Bosch battery
- Error 423 Battery pack connection problem. Check electrical connections and clean contacts.
Error 540 Battery pack error. Switch off the ebike, remove the battery pack and then reinsert it. Restart the ebike.
Error 602 Battery pack error while charging. Unplug the charger from the battery pack. Restart the ebike. Plug the charger back into the battery pack.
Error 603 Internal battery pack error, sometime while charging. Unplug the charger, stop and restart the ebike.
Error 605 Battery pack temperature error, sometimes while charging. The battery is outside of the permissible temperature range. Unplug the charger and switch off the ebike to allow the drive unit to either cool down or heat up to the permissible temperature. Restart the ebike.
Error 606 Battery pack temperature error. Check the wiring. Restart the ebike.
Error 610 Battery pack temperature error while charging. Restart the ebike.
Error 620 Battery pack voltage error. Replace the charger.
Error 640 Charging error. Restart the ebike.
Error 655 Internal battery pack error. Switch off the ebikes. Remove the battery pack and reinsert it. Restart the ebike.
- 3 LEDs flashing. Battery pack too warm or cold. Disconnect the battery from the charger until the charging temperature range has been reached. Do not connect the battery pack to the charger until it has reached the permissible charging temperature.
2 LEDs flashing. Battery pack is defective. Battery may need replacement.
No LEDs on when charging. Charger plug is not inserted correctly or battery contacts are dirty. Check all plug connections. Carefully clean the battery contacts using a damp cloth.
No LEDs on when charging. Wall socket outlet, cable or charger defective. Check household voltage, have charger checked at your bike dealer, replace the charger as needed.
No LED on when charging. Battery pack is defective. Have the battery checked at your bike dealer, replace the battery as needed.
No LEDs on when pressing the Power button. Battery pack may be fully discharged or may be defective. Try charging the battery for an hour or so. If the battery is not charging (still no LEDs on when pressing the Power button), have the battery checked at your bike dealer, replace the battery as needed.
TIP #4 - RESETTING THE BATTERY
To clear a battery related error, I would try resetting the battery. With Bosch batteries, after removing the battery from the bike, a battery reset is done by pressing and holding the battery power button for 10 seconds and then reinstalling the battery in the bike.
If the power button is not immediately visible or accessible, you may need to use a tool e.g. screwdriver, small punch or thin rod, to reach and gently press the power button through the hole or opening in the battery cover.
TIP #5 - CONSULT YOUR EBIKE OWNER'S MANUAL
Read what your ebike/battery manufacturer says about battery care, maintenance and problem troubleshooting. Take a look at this post for manufacturers guides and other resources available to e-bike owners.
TIP #6 - ASK A PROFESSIONAL
Always reach out to your nearest bike shop/dealer or battery manufacturer for professional expertise and assistance with using your battery, troubleshooting or resolving battery-related issues. Don't rely on contents posted on social media and public forums for professional advice. In other words, take everything you read or watch on social media with a grain of salt!
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RiderOnTheStorm
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #223
Battery health issues and troubleshooting battery degradations seem to be a recurring topic. I've posted a few tips in this thread that may be of interest to anyone having battery issues. Let me know your feedback!
www.emtbforums.com
Do's and Don'ts for e-bike battery care. What do you do to keep your battery performing at its best?
Yeah that would bother me tbh. I've heard of people knocking up DIY solutions to discharging batteries with fans and bulbs and things, be nice if there was an official plug and play device that did it but even better if the energy could be used for something useful like light or heat. Someone...
www.emtbforums.com
The ONLY ‘on the fence’ battery routine I have is where to store the battery BETWEEN rides!
Some ‘experts’ say don’t store battery in the cold or heat, but then some say nothing is lost by keeping battery in the bike between rides, as long as you don’t CHARGE it in the heat!?!?
So, here in SW Florida, during the summer, do a bring it in between rides, or just leave it IN the bike, but charge inside?!?
RiderOnTheStorm
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #225
@leehop71, between rides (short-term storage scenario), battery packs should ideally be kept in a dry location at temperatures between 5°C (41°F) and 20°C (68°F) to maximize their lifespan.
So your battery could stay inside the bike between rides if the bike can be stored at these temperatures. Otherwise, it may be preferable to bring the battery inside at room temperature 15-20° C (60-70°F).
For charging, you're correct, batteries shouldn't be charged in the heat, and never at temperatures above 35-40°C (100°F). Ideally, batteries should be charged at room temperature. They should also be kept out of direct sunlight.
What temperatures and humidity are you getting for this time of year?
So your battery could stay inside the bike between rides if the bike can be stored at these temperatures. Otherwise, it may be preferable to bring the battery inside at room temperature 15-20° C (60-70°F).
For charging, you're correct, batteries shouldn't be charged in the heat, and never at temperatures above 35-40°C (100°F). Ideally, batteries should be charged at room temperature. They should also be kept out of direct sunlight.
What temperatures and humidity are you getting for this time of year?
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Brutal heat/humidity here in SW Florida from June through October! My routine year round will be to bring battery in between rides.
My battery is designed to shut off when the key is turned and it pops loose from the bike!
Thanks Rider
CarbonMan
Member
My phone has a battery protect function that stop charging at 85%. Should i stop at 85% or so if that's all i need for a ride?
ISTR that can lead to cells being unbalanced if you do that repeatedly.
TBH I don’t see how anyone could know what level the charge is at when charging a bike battery.
Trial and error - easy to check % with STunlocker and then see how much extra after an hour charge. I always boost mine to ~60% for storage and usually get it close enough.TBH I don’t see how anyone could know what level the charge is at when charging a bike battery.
Mine shows the percentage of charge while charging. If yours does not then as others have said just check the percentage before and after a certain amount of charge to see how much it's gone up in that given time and use that for calculating how long to charge it for when starting at any given percentage.TBH I don’t see how anyone could know what level the charge is at when charging a bike battery.
That’s your phone?
What is the device showing the percentage is what I’m asking. You are charging an e-bike battery but what device is that, that show the percentage in the picture?
Oh gotcha, that's the standard Kiox 300 screen that came with the bike.
Mine came with a standard charger that just shows WHEN the battery is fully charged
Does your bike not have any LEDs or anything that show the percentage of charge while charging? The last few bikes I've had have all had some way of seeing the rough charge percentage by way of LEDs or some kind of bar meter where each block represents a certain amount of charge.
It has 3 lights on the battery, red, yellow, and green.
From the research I’ve seen, half of them say charging to 100% is fine, just don’t store it at 100%, some advise the 80% rule.
Basically, from what I understand, the 80% rule only brings minimal life to the battery.
I'm more concerned about what happens when a battery at 100% suddenly lets go . .I am an anal person that keeps charger AND battery inside, between rides, and charge inside using a laptop cooler, but not anal enough to be concerned about the 80% rule.
I've followed all of the rules in this thread and have 9 or 10 partial charges on my battery and exactly 3 full charges.
This morning I did the 3rd full charge in my home (my Relay battery is removable and my garage is pretty hot) and within 5-10 minutes of the chargers full charge indicator light going green it was unplugged.
About an hour later I installed the battery and used the App to check percent of charge and it was at 98% with no pedaling done but it had read 100% charge when I previously gave it a full charge 2x.
So it would appear that at only around 120 miles of use I had lost 2% capacity.
It's not a huge deal but I'm a bit surprised by the quick degradation in spite of me doing all the things (keep battery room temp except when riding, charge to 60% after use, allow to cool before charging, never been below 20%, depart usually at 80% charge except the 2 times at 100% & now one at 98%).
Anything I should be doing differently or is this just par for the course?
If I left it fully charged longer or more often would the battery cells rebalance? Starting to think I'd be better off just charging it to 100% every ride.
This morning I did the 3rd full charge in my home (my Relay battery is removable and my garage is pretty hot) and within 5-10 minutes of the chargers full charge indicator light going green it was unplugged.
About an hour later I installed the battery and used the App to check percent of charge and it was at 98% with no pedaling done but it had read 100% charge when I previously gave it a full charge 2x.
So it would appear that at only around 120 miles of use I had lost 2% capacity.
It's not a huge deal but I'm a bit surprised by the quick degradation in spite of me doing all the things (keep battery room temp except when riding, charge to 60% after use, allow to cool before charging, never been below 20%, depart usually at 80% charge except the 2 times at 100% & now one at 98%).
Anything I should be doing differently or is this just par for the course?
If I left it fully charged longer or more often would the battery cells rebalance? Starting to think I'd be better off just charging it to 100% every ride.
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