Levo SL Gen 1 Levo SL 2023 Megathread

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Super light concept SL2 build. 29/29, Fox 36. 33.2 Lbs / 15.05kg..


Interesting project, but even the build at 32 lbs is somewhat impractical. Fasttrak would die in about 30 seconds and 2 piston brakes would be smoked after 1 run. Bike would be amazing at 34-35 lbs though with real tires and brakes.

BTW, his planned changes from a geo perspective won't work out. Slacking out the HA and raising the BB will counteract each other. Will still likely end up with a sub 330 mm BB height.
 
Interesting project, but even the build at 32 lbs is somewhat impractical. Fasttrak would die in about 30 seconds and 2 piston brakes would be smoked after 1 run. Bike would be amazing at 34-35 lbs though with real tires and brakes.

BTW, his planned changes from a geo perspective won't work out. Slacking out the HA and raising the BB will counteract each other. Will still likely end up with a sub 330 mm BB height.
It's just a concept... and since it's a "trail" bike, riding it round fire tracks and paths etc would likely be fine with 2 pot brakes @ 15kg. Did they not do a Fox 34 in 160mm - as that'd keep it the same, and probably only add a few g's onto the weight.
 
My T-Type has shipped, so I was watching the installation video in preparation for fitting it tomorrow.

On the SRAM site, there is a bike calculator that tells you chain size, and key position specific to your model.

It asks for brand, model, wheel size, frame size and where you have the adjustable geometry set.

I tried all options out of curiosity… and the only difference is a 27.5” wheel (doesn’t matter where the flip chip or chain stay adjustment are) is 116 links, and a 29’er is 118 links. All setups need the key in position B.

I wonder if everyone who has swapped from a mullet to 29’er knows that they need to add a link to their chain? I’m also curious whether Specialized provide the S-Works (or Pro) models which are fitted with T-Type with extra links should you decide to run a 29” rear wheel?

Anyway… the setup ‘sounds’ incredibly simple, so hopefully it’s as easy as the videos suggest when I try it tomorrow evening!
 
The Expert Carbon Levo SL can be found in Malaysia Specialized. Good Value IMO.

 
With new GX Transmission that is not even out yet? Interesting.
BTW; how is it with PRO version in EU? It's delisted from some Specialized sites (like Germany).
 
The Expert Carbon Levo SL can be found in Malaysia Specialized. Good Value IMO.

Wow... that's cheaper than a Comp is in the UK, and comes better kitted out and in much better colours too.
I see the GX AXS now comes with the pod controller too.

Edit - never noticed it was GX transmission! Will be interesting to see the differences and how that's priced when it gets released as an 'upgrade' set.
 
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My T-Type has shipped, so I was watching the installation video in preparation for fitting it tomorrow.

On the SRAM site, there is a bike calculator that tells you chain size, and key position specific to your model.

It asks for brand, model, wheel size, frame size and where you have the adjustable geometry set.

I tried all options out of curiosity… and the only difference is a 27.5” wheel (doesn’t matter where the flip chip or chain stay adjustment are) is 116 links, and a 29’er is 118 links. All setups need the key in position B.

I wonder if everyone who has swapped from a mullet to 29’er knows that they need to add a link to their chain? I’m also curious whether Specialized provide the S-Works (or Pro) models which are fitted with T-Type with extra links should you decide to run a 29” rear wheel?

Anyway… the setup ‘sounds’ incredibly simple, so hopefully it’s as easy as the videos suggest when I try it tomorrow evening!
I had the same dilemma when installing transmission on my Gen3 Levo. It required 120 links in low mode and 118 in high. As I frequently changed between low and high I sized to 120 links and had zero issues in either mode.

For the SL I sized correctly to 116 links as I'm unlikely to change to full 29er anytime soon, if I do, I'll buy another chain.

If you wanted to lengthen the chain, you would need to use 2 powerlocks as it wouldn't be a good idea to rejoin existing links using a pin that was previously removed when you spilt the chain.
 
I had the same dilemma when installing transmission on my Gen3 Levo. It required 120 links in low mode and 118 in high. As I frequently changed between low and high I sized to 120 links and had zero issues in either mode.

For the SL I sized correctly to 116 links as I'm unlikely to change to full 29er anytime soon, if I do, I'll buy another chain.

If you wanted to lengthen the chain, you would need to use 2 powerlocks as it wouldn't be a good idea to rejoin existing links using a pin that was previously removed when you spilt the chain.
Re-joining the links is a no-no as I found out the hard way. I had to add a link on the SL2, and had a whole heap of unused XX1 links in a tub... so I carefully added 1 with my Park Tool chain tool, and had it so it was nice and supple.
On my first ride, and the first real climb under load, the chain snapped - and I was stuck! I didn't have any tools with me, and was miles away from my house.

I then tried again, and the next time I rode the bike up a 20% climb, it snapped again. I fixed it with a power lock in a couple of mins - as I had my backpack with me.
My chain has had 2 power locks on for the last few weeks now - knowing that my T-Type will be here soon.

I'm sticking with 29" for now, so I'll go with 118 links on the new chain.
 
Re-joining the links is a no-no as I found out the hard way. I had to add a link on the SL2, and had a whole heap of unused XX1 links in a tub... so I carefully added 1 with my Park Tool chain tool, and had it so it was nice and supple.
On my first ride, and the first real climb under load, the chain snapped - and I was stuck! I didn't have any tools with me, and was miles away from my house.

I then tried again, and the next time I rode the bike up a 20% climb, it snapped again. I fixed it with a power lock in a couple of mins - as I had my backpack with me.
My chain has had 2 power locks on for the last few weeks now - knowing that my T-Type will be here soon.

I'm sticking with 29" for now, so I'll go with 118 links on the new chain.
When you push out a pin, the head breaks off. This is the washer looking thing you see around the chain breaker.

If you're starting as a 29er then it will be easy for you to reduce the length of the chain if you ever go mullet...
 
With new GX Transmission that is not even out yet? Interesting.
BTW; how is it with PRO version in EU? It's delisted from some Specialized sites (like Germany).
Pro version is available in UK and just landing in stores. And S works Ltd edition due shortly
 
snip...

I tried all options out of curiosity… and the only difference is a 27.5” wheel (doesn’t matter where the flip chip or chain stay adjustment are) is 116 links, and a 29’er is 118 links. All setups need the key in position B.

I wonder if everyone who has swapped from a mullet to 29’er knows that they need to add a link to their chain?
I am having trouble understanding why the chain length would be different. The chain goes from the chainwheel to the cassette, the distance between those should not change no matter what size wheel we install?
 
My T-Type has shipped, so I was watching the installation video in preparation for fitting it tomorrow.

On the SRAM site, there is a bike calculator that tells you chain size, and key position specific to your model.

It asks for brand, model, wheel size, frame size and where you have the adjustable geometry set.

I tried all options out of curiosity… and the only difference is a 27.5” wheel (doesn’t matter where the flip chip or chain stay adjustment are) is 116 links, and a 29’er is 118 links. All setups need the key in position B.

I wonder if everyone who has swapped from a mullet to 29’er knows that they need to add a link to their chain? I’m also curious whether Specialized provide the S-Works (or Pro) models which are fitted with T-Type with extra links should you decide to run a 29” rear wheel?

Anyway… the setup ‘sounds’ incredibly simple, so hopefully it’s as easy as the videos suggest when I try it tomorrow evening!
Can I ask where you bought the T-Type and what you paid for it?
Did you order the derailleur, cassette, chain and shifter pod, or, complete including chainset?
 
Can I ask where you bought the T-Type and what you paid for it?
Did you order the derailleur, cassette, chain and shifter pod, or, complete including chainset?

Cheapest way to buy it for the Levo SL is as a 104bcd groupset. You'll use everything in the groupset apart from the chainring.

X0 is the way to go, same performance as the XX but a little cheaper. It also looks like GX will be with us soon...

 
Can I ask where you bought the T-Type and what you paid for it?
Did you order the derailleur, cassette, chain and shifter pod, or, complete including chainset?
I bought the XX from Swinnerton Cycles, as I wanted the magic wheel. I used QuidCo to make the purchase, and got (or will get) £25.24 cashback, and also got £13.40 back for using my Chase bank card. It ended up being a few £'s over £1300.

Hopefully can get a little back off that by selling on my XX1 AXS derailleur, 2 x chains and cassette once it's all fitted.
Sadly, FedEx have had a 'delay', so looks like I won't be getting it until tomorrow now 🙄

 
I bought the XX from Swinnerton Cycles, as I wanted the magic wheel. I used QuidCo to make the purchase, and got (or will get) £25.24 cashback, and also got £13.40 back for using my Chase bank card. It ended up being a few £'s over £1300.

Hopefully can get a little back off that by selling on my XX1 AXS derailleur, 2 x chains and cassette once it's all fitted.
Sadly, FedEx have had a 'delay', so looks like I won't be getting it until tomorrow now 🙄

You can now buy the T-Type Derailleur Pulley Kits, the silver one from the XXSL might look good on X0! :D

 
Thanks. I have a full XX1 AXS system off a SW Stumpy Evo that has done under 10 miles!! It’s as new.

I may see what I can get for it and then get the T-Type, otherwise I’ll stick with what I’ve got. Have the same system on my Epic Evo and it’s been flawless , I’d find it hard to go back to mechanical!
 
Thanks. I have a full XX1 AXS system off a SW Stumpy Evo that has done under 10 miles!! It’s as new.

I may see what I can get for it and then get the T-Type, otherwise I’ll stick with what I’ve got. Have the same system on my Epic Evo and it’s been flawless , I’d find it hard to go back to mechanical!
I used the original AXS on an analog bike since launch, I also used it on an ebike for a short period. I loved it on the analog bike, not so much on the ebike. I personally felt that it shifted too quickly for use on an ebike.

Transmission works better on an ebike, it's not night and day difference but a good improvement. I'm not sure I would be in a rush to upgrade on an analog bike but would be happy if it came included on any new bike...
 
I also had it on my Gen 1 SL that I recently sold to fund the new one.
I loved it on that too! Maybe a FF E-bike it isn’t so good but I found it excellent on the SL.
 
I also had it on my Gen 1 SL that I recently sold to fund the new one.
I loved it on that too! Maybe a FF E-bike it isn’t so good but I found it excellent on the SL.
Yes I should have said, this was my experience on a Gen 3 Levo. I've only used transmission on Gen 2 SL so can't comment on original AXS on this bike.

I personally wouldn't bother with SRAM wireless (inc Transmission) shifting on a FF ebike.
 
I’m the same, have always been Shimano XTR!!
AXS was a big game changer for me.
 
I also had it on my Gen 1 SL that I recently sold to fund the new one.
I loved it on that too! Maybe a FF E-bike it isn’t so good but I found it excellent on the SL.
I've had the XX1 AXS on my Gen 1 SL for almost 3 1/2 years, and it's never missed a beat. I did have to get the remote swapped under warranty as it stopped working... but the derailleur has been bulletproof. It does have a few battle scars on it (as you'd expect for 3 1/2 years use), but it's mechanically sound.

I have the GX AXS on my Stumpy, which I bought to make it easier for my Kickr! I was fed up of having to adjust the screws, so now I just need to do the Microadjust to get it in place.
 
Are those custom building going with 160mm 36 diameter forks like OEM or 38 diameter forks and why?
 
I am having trouble understanding why the chain length would be different. The chain goes from the chainwheel to the cassette, the distance between those should not change no matter what size wheel we install?
27.5 = short chainstay position
29 = long chainstay position ie +10 mm, so longer chain ;)
 
The PRO are already in Spain

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I am having trouble understanding why the chain length would be different. The chain goes from the chainwheel to the cassette, the distance between those should not change no matter what size wheel we install?
That is incorrect. For 29 you are supposed to change the rear dropout position which results in a longer chain stay.
 
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