Orbea Rise upper axle grease and thread lock only maintenance.

[richlock]

UK based with around 150 miles on my M10. Bike has been washed/gentle hose only. Pretty sure I've got the creak developing from the upper axle. Reading Ron's excellent tutorial on full linkage strip down and service.
Could somebody just confirm that I can in the first instance, just try the clean grease and thread lock the splines job.

If so what is the simplest way walkthrough to completing that job. Can I leave the shock in situ etc.
Many thanks for any help.

 

[Rod B.]

UK based with around 150 miles on my M10. Bike has been washed/gentle hose only. Pretty sure I've got the creak developing from the upper axle. Reading Ron's excellent tutorial on full linkage strip down and service.
Could somebody just confirm that I can in the first instance, just try the clean grease and thread lock the splines job.

If so what is the simplest way walkthrough to completing that job. Can I leave the shock in situ etc.
Many thanks for any help.

Richlock,

Yes, you can do just a quick abbreviated maintenance procedure. I've often done an upper service, i.e. grease the axle, without removing the upper shock or servicing the bearings.

Bicycle creaking is an annoying and frustrating issue which can drive a person crazy. Identifying the creak can be difficult. Two of the most common causes of creaking on a Rise while pedaling are:

1) The linkage arm (Right, Drive Side) has slipped on the pivot axle spline. The aluminum axle can now make small creaking shifts side to side across the upper pivot bearings. If enough play has developed, you may also feel a "Bending/Loose" sensation in the rear triangle as if the bike is wrapping around you on hard cornering.

2) The second cause of creaking is a lack of grease on the upper and or lower pivot axles where they ride on the upper and lower frame mounted pivot bearings.

Note: A third known cause of Rise creaking is excessive wear/play in the rear wheel hub bearing (Right, Drive Side) and the two small freehub bearings which the cassette spins on. The torque produced by eBike motors is extremely hard on rear wheel hub and free hub bearings. Lift the rear wheel off the ground. Spin the rear wheel and place your finger on the chain stay or seat stay. You should feel an absolute smooth sensation as the wheel spins. If you feel any rough or notchy vibration, it means you have a wheel hub bearing (Usually drive side) going out. If your bike has a creaking noise while pressing down hard on the pedals, this may indicate a freehub bearing is also going bad. If I have to change one bearing, I change all the bearings.

Abbreviated Procedure:
1. Place the bike in a repair stand. Remove the rear wheel.

2. Remove the pivot hardware and disconnect the left and right chain stays from the linkage arms. Refer to my previous posts on upper and lower pivot axle maintenance.

Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service

Thank you to those who have contributed their experiences thus far to make this article better. I service the linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, axles, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months on my Rise. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. Very wet or powdery dirt...

www.emtbforums.com

PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article. In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing...

www.emtbforums.com

3. Remove the drive side linkage arm from the upper pivot axle by loosening the linkage arm pinch bolt and wiggling the linkage arm off of the axle. I often use a "Soft" black rubber mallet to help tap the linkage arm off. The soft mallet prevents marring the linkage arms.

4. Use the soft rubber mallet to tap the axle completely out of the frame mounted pivot bearings. I like to use a combination of taping the axle and tapping the linkage arm. Do not use anything hard, i.e. metal to drive the axle out of the pivot bearings. The aluminum pivot axle is soft and will warp if struck with something hard.

5. Loosen the left, non-drive linkage arm pinch bolt and separate the linkage arm from the axle. You can usually hold the axle in one hand and tap the linkage arm with a soft rubber mallet to separate the two items.

6. Perform an inspection of the bearings as explained in my previous posts. Clean everything up. Wipe away all the dirty grease from the bearings, linkage arms, linkage arm hardware bolts, and axle splines.

7. Apply a film of water proof grease (I like to use Schaeffer 219 synthetic green waterproof and extreme pressure grease) to the pivot bearing races which the axle will slide into. Give the shoulders of the pivot axle which will ride upon the pivot bearings a film of grease also.

8. Slide the pivot axle into the upper pivot bearings with the threaded side of the axle facing towards the drive side. Insure the axle is centered between the two bearings.

9. Clean the splines on the axle with isopropyl alcohol to insure the splines are free of grease. Apply a "Small" dab amount of Loctite 638 cylindrical retaining compound to the left, non-drive side axle splines. Spread it around on the splines with your finger. Do not go heavy with the retaining compound. If you apply a heavy amount, it will make future removal difficult. You want to think of the cylindrical retaining compound as being like RED Loctite.....less is more, just a dab.

10. Holding the axle with the palm of your hand so it won't move, tap the left, non-drive linkage arm fully onto the splines and torque the pinch bolt to specification. Note, I install the axle first and then clean the splines before applying the retaining compound.

11. After installing the left linkage arm, gently tap the arm towards the drive side of the bike. Insure the linkage arm is bottomed out against the pivot bearings. If it is not fully bottomed out, you will have an issue with setting proper pre-load.

12. Insure you have the purple colored upper pivot axle preload tool nearby and at hand. You don't need to rush the preload procedure. There is plenty of working time in regards to the retaining compound. Apply retaining compound to the right, drive side axle splines. Slip the right linkage arm onto the splines. Thread the purple pre-load tool into the axle threads.

NOTE: This is important...insure the black fiber washer on the preload tool is centered in the linkage arm hole and will not be pinched by the linkage arm as you thread the tool into the axle. If you pinch the fiber washer it will damage the washer's thickness and hinder setting proper pre-load.

13. Thread the pre-load tool into the axle until you meet firm resistance. Using the soft rubber mallet, once more gently tap the left, non-drive linkage arm inwards to insure it is fully bottomed out against the pivot bearing. Check the pre-load tool once more to insure it is fully tightened. After taping the left linkage arm, you may get an additional bit of turn out of the pre-load tool.

NOTE: Do not crank down tight on the pre-load tool. It just needs to be firmly tightened. If you overly tighten the pre-load tool, it will damage and pancake the fiber washer to a thinner thickness. This in turn, will cause your preload to be too tight, which will cause inadequate play in the upper pivot assembly.

Follow my steps in my previous upper and lower linkage maintenance posts for reassembly instructions on the linkage hardware. I would suggest that after you have assembled the upper linkage, remove the lower pivot axle and give it a shot of grease just because you love your bike....Wahoo!

I hope this helps you out. If you run into problems, shoot me a message and I'll help you out.

Cheers
Rod

 

[FloridaDan]

Perfect, this is exactly what I’ve been planning to try. My bike is quite new as well. I’m having a hard time picturing some of this procedure but I’ll figure it out as I go. Thanks!

 

[Rod B.]

Perfect, this is exactly what I’ve been planning to try. My bike is quite new as well. I’m having a hard time picturing some of this procedure but I’ll figure it out as I go. Thanks!

Dan,

I originally did a Part # 1 and Part # 2, technical write up on servicing the upper and lower pivot axles and bearings. The articles have diagrams which will help you visualize what I refer to in the thread above. The tech series details an extensive "Full Blown" servicing of the M series Rise, upper and lower pivot axles and bearings.

Richlock who started this thread wanted to know if it was possible to due a short and abbreviated service without servicing the bearings, removal of the shock, chain stay, etc. My answer is yes. I frequently perform an abbreviated service that only involves greasing the upper axle and setting linkage arm pre-load. The process I wrote in the thread above sounds complicated but actually is easy and takes about 30 minutes to perform.

Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service

Thank you to those who have contributed their experiences thus far to make this article better. I service the linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, axles, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months on my Rise. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. Very wet or powdery dirt...

www.emtbforums.com

PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article. In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[FloridaDan]

Dan,

I originally did a Part # 1 and Part # 2, technical write up on servicing the upper and lower pivot axles and bearings. The articles have diagrams which will help you visualize what I refer to in the thread above. The tech series details an extensive "Full Blown" servicing of the M series Rise, upper and lower pivot axles and bearings.

Richlock who started this thread wanted to know if it was possible to due a short and abbreviated service without servicing the bearings, removal of the shock, chain stay, etc. My answer is yes. I frequently perform an abbreviated service that only involves greasing the upper axle and setting linkage arm pre-load. The process I wrote in the thread above sounds complicated but actually is easy and takes about 30 minutes to perform.

Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service

Thank you to those who have contributed their experiences thus far to make this article better. I service the linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, axles, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months on my Rise. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. Very wet or powdery dirt...

www.emtbforums.com

PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article. In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing...

www.emtbforums.com

Thank you Rod. I have seen the articles; they are fantastic and much appreciated. I was going to use the first to try and do what you described here, so it was fortunate timing for me to see this. I do most of my own work but I'm definitely not advanced. Though I do already have that torque wrench you recommended, it works very nicely.

 

[Rod B.]

Thank you Rod. I have seen the articles; they are fantastic and much appreciated. I was going to use the first to try and do what you described here, so it was fortunate timing for me to see this. I do most of my own work but I'm definitely not advanced. Though I do already have that torque wrench you recommended, it works very nicely.

Awesome! If you have any questions, shoot me a message and I'll help you out.

Be safe,
Rod

 

[FloridaDan]

So I have everything except maybe the most important, the preload tool. I bought my bike from JensonUSA and I don’t think the tool made it though to me. I’ve asked them about it twice now and waiting for another response.

i also can’t find it anywhere to purchase. I don’t suppose there is a substitute?

 

[Rod B.]

So I have everything except maybe the most important, the preload tool. I bought my bike from JensonUSA and I don’t think the tool made it though to me. I’ve asked them about it twice now and waiting for another response.

i also can’t find it anywhere to purchase. I don’t suppose there is a substitute?

Dan or anybody else interested,

You can purchase a pre-load tool on Orbea's website. Shipping is slightly more due to the parts being shipped from Spain on DHL. It's been my experience that it usually takes two to three weeks to receive parts from Orbea, this includes usually about a week to just process the order.

I would encourage you to purchase Rise wear items along with the tool. I will list below several items which I've found to wear fairly quickly, especially if you ride your Rise three to four times a week. Buying everything all at once will save on additional future shipping costs or possibly having to wait for additional parts when you need them right now.

Orbea

Bicycles, helmets and cycle clothing. Orbea develops technology applied to products for bike lovers.

www.orbea.com

1) Once on Orbea's "USA" website, you will need to open an account/Register in order to purchase parts. Orbea's web format is not user friendly. With a little patience it's eventually easy to figure out. Note that Orbea has multiple websites for various continents/countries. Make sure you are on the Orbea USA website and not another country's website. If you are on an incorrect website, you will not be able to order parts.

To confirm you are on the correct website, check to see if US/EN is listed in the upper far right corner. If you don't see US/EN, click on US/EN and it will take you to a drop down menu which will allow you to select America as the continent and United States the country.

Orbea USA web page picture

Orbea Great Britain web page picture

2) In you have not registered your Rise or opened an account, you can do so by clicking on the person icon located on the right side of the upper header bar.

When you register/open an account, you will be asked for your national ID and Date of Birth. I think this might be a Euro thing. I leave the National ID blank and list a fictitious date of birth. Note that when you do purchase parts, you will also encounter a similar box titled "National/Foreign ID." You can leave this box blank and the order will still process. The order will not process without a date of birth listed.

3) To purchase parts, click on the opening webpage, upper header bar word "Gear." When Gear opens up, click on "Spare Parts." When "Spare Parts" page opens up, you have two ways of searching for Rise parts. On the left side of the webpage you can search for parts specific to the Rise by inputting your Rise's frame serial number. On the right side of the page your can search by bicycle model, i.e. Rise, Rallon, etc.

I recommend searching for parts by serial number. This avoids purchasing parts for the wrong model, i.e. Hydro, Carbon, Rallon, Occam, etc.

You can find your Rise's 11 digit serial number located on the bottom side of the down tube near where the head tube and down tube meet.

4) There are two Rise "Pre-load" tools offered in the Spare Parts inventory. There is a "Green" colored pre-load tool and a "Purple" pre-load tool.

The green pre-load tool is used on Rises which came with a 210mm x 55mm rear shock.

The purple pre-load tool is used on Rises which came with a 210mm x 50mm rear shock.

My Rise came from the factory with a 210mm x 55mm shock, yet I also received a "Purple" colored pre-load tool. I believe you can use either pre-load tool to set the pre-load adjustment. The fiber washer itself sets the pre-load tolerance and I believe it's the same for either color.

The pre-load tool is also used as a rear shock, sag gauge. If you plan to use the pre-load tool to set sag on your rear shock, you will need the correct colored tool.

5) Rise - High Wear Parts:

a) The black rubber chain stay guard on the Rise tends to wear out rapidly. If you are running the standard 32T chain ring that comes with your Rise, the chain tends to rub on the chain stay guard, near the upper end of the chain stay by the chain ring. If the wear is allowed to continue, the chain will eventually eat into the actual chain stay itself. Keep a close eye on the rubber guard.

Note: I've used silicon tape to wrap several turns of the tape around the chain stay and guard at the rub site. The tape doesn't look pretty, but it's very effective against preventing further rub through.

b) Another high wear item is the black rubber head on the chain guide. After about a thousand miles or so, the arms on the black rubber head will become paper thin and no longer offer enough guide protection. Keep in mind, an eBike motor is powerful and if for whatever reason you do happen to drop a chain, especially while hammering it in boost mode, that chain is going to act like a chain saw and cause a lot of damage to the frame. Make sure the chain guide height is adjusted correctly and have a spare on hand for when it does begin to wear out.

c) Lastly, let's talk pivot bearings. How long the bearings will last on your Rise is dependent upon many things, such as rider weight, terrain the bike is ridden upon, how often the bike is ridden and weather conditions. Orange County California, which is where I'm from, is dryer than a popcorn fart in the summer time. The trails feature soil the consistency of concrete, which has been sprinkled over with about an inch of fine talcum power dirt. My linkage arm bearings lasted 2,800 miles, whereas my upper and lower pivot axle bearings which are unprotected on the Rise, lasted 1,500 miles. I gave up replacing the rear axle chain stay bearings. Orbea's milling for the bearing bores is so poor, the bearings themselves never worked correctly even when the bike was new.

The Rise Blue Paper lists the bearing sizes needed for the upper and lower pivot axles, linkage arms and rear axle. You can source these individually on the internet or you can buy a complete set from Orbea for $42.

I would not make a single purchase of bearings from Orbea. The cost of shipping does not make it practical. It's cheaper to source bearings individually on Amazon, eBay, or Jenson USA, etc. However, as a whole group parts purchase, the cost of $42 for an entire set of suspension bearings makes it a good deal.

I hope you find this useful.

Be safe,
Rod

 

[FloridaDan]

Wow Rod, yes that is definitely useful. I suspect I hadn’t found the US site since I couldn’t find any purchase option. Thank you for pointing this out and for the suggestions, much appreciated.

 

[Rod B.]

Wow Rod, yes that is definitely useful. I suspect I hadn’t found the US site since I couldn’t find any purchase option. Thank you for pointing this out and for the suggestions, much appreciated.

If you run out of luck with Jenson USA (Good luck, Jenson has horrible customer service), I have a spare purple pre-load tool which you can have. The only issue is the fiber washer is partially damaged. Remember the part where I said be extra careful to make sure the fiber washer doesn't become pinched against the linkage arm. Well....there you go. I speak from experience. Shoot me a PM with your address and I'll send it to you.

 

[FloridaDan]

Thanks for that offer Rod! So before ordering from Orbea I decided to go through the shipping box and materials one more time. And in the bottom of the box, in a dark corner, laying by itself, I found a green preload tool with the washer intact. So relieved. Getting ready to do the work now.

 

[cookie70]

Rise 2023 carbon blue paper is out be interesting to see if upper axle can be used on the older model

 

[neilo]

Rise 2023 carbon blue paper is out be interesting to see if upper axle can be used on the older model

Comparing the two, it looks like the shock yoke (shock extender) might need to be replaced too? The connection between the shock yoke and the linkage arms uses different sized bearings now. The connection between the linkage arms and the seat stays looks the same, and the upper pivot axle bearings haven't changed, so it looks somewhat promising.

It's possible the addition of the pivot axle bearing seals has necessitated a change to deepen the machining of the frame where those 6804 bearings seat, to allow the seal to fit inside the recess? If so, you might find the the linkage arm will not seat home on the axle fully, and the arms will end up too far apart and will not line up with the seat stays??

 

[Rod B.]

Rise 2023 carbon blue paper is out be interesting to see if upper axle can be used on the older model

Cookie,

The Rise Blue Paper for both models (Years 21/2022 & 2023) show that the upper axle pivot bearings have stayed the same (Enduro 6804). Therefore it may be possible to do the conversion. To have a better idea, we need to know if the design of the chain stay arm where it mounts to the linkage assembly has been changed. Lastly we need to know if the 2023 Rise frame width at the upper axle bearing mount is the same or has it been widened or narrowed?

The one glaring difference between the old and new Rise is the shock yoke, it has been changed quite a bit in design. I have not seen a 2023 Rise Carbon in person so the following is an absolute guess, If the 2023 Rise Carbon chain stays have not been changed and the frame have not been narrowed or widened at the upper axle mount, then a conversion is possible.

Note, to affect a conversion of the older model Rise carbon, you would need to purchase a shock yoke, linkage arm/axle assembly, left linkage arm, linkage hardware kit, upper axle seal kit, shock mount bolt kit and the axle trail tool.

Lastly, Orbea is not currently offering the 2023 linkage arm/axle assembly. It is listed as "Unavailable" on Orbea's website. One wonders if the unavailability is done on purpose. If the assembly was to be made available and the conversion possible, then many people would likely do it and not feel the need to purchase a new Rise.

2021-2022 Rise Carbon Shock Yoke Assembly

2023 Rise Carbon Shock Yoke Assembly

 

[FloridaDan]

Following Rod's instructions, and with some additional help from Rod as well, I successfully fixed my creaking bike. Having never done this before, and because of some problems, it took me a very long time.

Trouble spots: getting chain stay washers to stop falling out (Rod suggested thick grease like bearing grease, I just had Polyblube); trouble getting the axle centered, because when I tapped the axle with the rubber mallet, the bearing on the opposite side wanted to come out (solved using large sockets on each side to tap them back in); and the biggest problem of all, I could not get the chain stay bolts to thread for the life of me. I actually took everything back apart and started over at one point. I thought I had stripped the bolts, but what I eventually found out was that the threads on the shock extender would not line up with the threads on the chain stay, so I had to push, pull, and twist the chain stay and bike frame, while binding the bolt with the hex wrench, to get the bolt to thread. It was very difficult.

But man was it all worth it to have a quiet bike! Thanks again to Rod for putting these instructions together.

 

[richlock]

Richlock,

Yes, you can do just a quick abbreviated maintenance procedure. I've often done an upper service, i.e. grease the axle, without removing the upper shock or servicing the bearings.

Bicycle creaking is an annoying and frustrating issue which can drive a person crazy. Identifying the creak can be difficult. Two of the most common causes of creaking on a Rise while pedaling are:

1) The linkage arm (Right, Drive Side) has slipped on the pivot axle spline. The aluminum axle can now make small creaking shifts side to side across the upper pivot bearings. If enough play has developed, you may also feel a "Bending/Loose" sensation in the rear triangle as if the bike is wrapping around you on hard cornering.

2) The second cause of creaking is a lack of grease on the upper and or lower pivot axles where they ride on the upper and lower frame mounted pivot bearings.

Note: A third known cause of Rise creaking is excessive wear/play in the rear wheel hub bearing (Right, Drive Side) and the two small freehub bearings which the cassette spins on. The torque produced by eBike motors is extremely hard on rear wheel hub and free hub bearings. Lift the rear wheel off the ground. Spin the rear wheel and place your finger on the chain stay or seat stay. You should feel an absolute smooth sensation as the wheel spins. If you feel any rough or notchy vibration, it means you have a wheel hub bearing (Usually drive side) going out. If your bike has a creaking noise while pressing down hard on the pedals, this may indicate a freehub bearing is also going bad. If I have to change one bearing, I change all the bearings.

Abbreviated Procedure:
1. Place the bike in a repair stand. Remove the rear wheel.

2. Remove the pivot hardware and disconnect the left and right chain stays from the linkage arms. Refer to my previous posts on upper and lower pivot axle maintenance.

Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service

Thank you to those who have contributed their experiences thus far to make this article better. I service the linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, axles, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months on my Rise. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. Very wet or powdery dirt...

www.emtbforums.com

PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article. In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing...

www.emtbforums.com

3. Remove the drive side linkage arm from the upper pivot axle by loosening the linkage arm pinch bolt and wiggling the linkage arm off of the axle. I often use a "Soft" black rubber mallet to help tap the linkage arm off. The soft mallet prevents marring the linkage arms.

4. Use the soft rubber mallet to tap the axle completely out of the frame mounted pivot bearings. I like to use a combination of taping the axle and tapping the linkage arm. Do not use anything hard, i.e. metal to drive the axle out of the pivot bearings. The aluminum pivot axle is soft and will warp if struck with something hard.

5. Loosen the left, non-drive linkage arm pinch bolt and separate the linkage arm from the axle. You can usually hold the axle in one hand and tap the linkage arm with a soft rubber mallet to separate the two items.

6. Perform an inspection of the bearings as explained in my previous posts. Clean everything up. Wipe away all the dirty grease from the bearings, linkage arms, linkage arm hardware bolts, and axle splines.

7. Apply a film of water proof grease (I like to use Schaeffer 219 synthetic green waterproof and extreme pressure grease) to the pivot bearing races which the axle will slide into. Give the shoulders of the pivot axle which will ride upon the pivot bearings a film of grease also.

8. Slide the pivot axle into the upper pivot bearings with the threaded side of the axle facing towards the drive side. Insure the axle is centered between the two bearings.

9. Clean the splines on the axle with isopropyl alcohol to insure the splines are free of grease. Apply a "Small" dab amount of Loctite 638 cylindrical retaining compound to the left, non-drive side axle splines. Spread it around on the splines with your finger. Do not go heavy with the retaining compound. If you apply a heavy amount, it will make future removal difficult. You want to think of the cylindrical retaining compound as being like RED Loctite.....less is more, just a dab.

10. Holding the axle with the palm of your hand so it won't move, tap the left, non-drive linkage arm fully onto the splines and torque the pinch bolt to specification. Note, I install the axle first and then clean the splines before applying the retaining compound.

11. After installing the left linkage arm, gently tap the arm towards the drive side of the bike. Insure the linkage arm is bottomed out against the pivot bearings. If it is not fully bottomed out, you will have an issue with setting proper pre-load.

12. Insure you have the purple colored upper pivot axle preload tool nearby and at hand. You don't need to rush the preload procedure. There is plenty of working time in regards to the retaining compound. Apply retaining compound to the right, drive side axle splines. Slip the right linkage arm onto the splines. Thread the purple pre-load tool into the axle threads.

NOTE: This is important...insure the black fiber washer on the preload tool is centered in the linkage arm hole and will not be pinched by the linkage arm as you thread the tool into the axle. If you pinch the fiber washer it will damage the washer's thickness and hinder setting proper pre-load.

13. Thread the pre-load tool into the axle until you meet firm resistance. Using the soft rubber mallet, once more gently tap the left, non-drive linkage arm inwards to insure it is fully bottomed out against the pivot bearing. Check the pre-load tool once more to insure it is fully tightened. After taping the left linkage arm, you may get an additional bit of turn out of the pre-load tool.

NOTE: Do not crank down tight on the pre-load tool. It just needs to be firmly tightened. If you overly tighten the pre-load tool, it will damage and pancake the fiber washer to a thinner thickness. This in turn, will cause your preload to be too tight, which will cause inadequate play in the upper pivot assembly.

Follow my steps in my previous upper and lower linkage maintenance posts for reassembly instructions on the linkage hardware. I would suggest that after you have assembled the upper linkage, remove the lower pivot axle and give it a shot of grease just because you love your bike....Wahoo!

I hope this helps you out. If you run into problems, shoot me a message and I'll help you out.

Cheers
Rod

Hi Rod, Just wanted to say thank you for your guide. I have today removed the upper linkage/axle and applied loctite 638. Quick question when it's time for a bearing change how easy is it to then separate the axle from the arm. Just thinking ahead for disassembly separating the 638.
Many thanks Richard
.

 

[Rod B.]

Hi Rod, Just wanted to say thank you for your guide. I have today removed the upper linkage/axle and applied loctite 638. Quick question when it's time for a bearing change how easy is it to then separate the axle from the arm. Just thinking ahead for disassembly separating the 638.
Many thanks Richard
.

Rich

It depends on how much 638 was used. If the 638 was applied sparingly, you can usually take a soft rubber mallet and tap the outer end of the drive side linkage arm back and forth. This should be sufficient to break the bond of the 638 and walk the linkage arm off of the axle.

I never separate the non drive (Left) linkage arm from the axle. I instead remove the axle and left linkage arm as a one piece unit. Unless you plan to replace the upper axle and or, the left linkage arm, then leave the two pieces attached permanently.

However.............que the theme song from Jaws..... if the 638 has been heavily applied, you will need to do a few additional steps to break the bond.

Application Definition

Light Application: You think of yourself as a self made Bob Ross. With a few small drops applied to the axle splines, you spread the 638 around with your fingertips to form a very light coating on the splined interface of the axle and linkage arm. While doing the finger painting, you think of pretty trails and trees.

Heavy Application: You drenched the axle and linkage arm splines thinking to yourself, 'A few drops is for pussies, I say go big. Let's really drench it, I don't want this sucker to ever come off.' Note: I've used the heavy application method and it works....

Okay, so you went big........and really applied the 638.

Remove all the hardware from the right and left linkage arms. Remove the pinch bolt from the drive side (Right) linkage arm. Take a blow dryer and really heat up the linkage arm in the area of the axle. I do this to soften the 638 and make it more pliable. I prefer to use a blow dryer because it won't develop enough heat to damage the frame, paint, bearing etc.

With the linkage arm warmed up, I take my soft rubber mallet and strike the end of the linkage arm in a back and forth manner to loosen the bond between the axle and linkage arm. As I tap the arm, my goal is to walk the linkage arm off of the axle splines.

If heating and tapping the linkage arm doesn't work, I take a thin tapered chisel and insert the tip into the gap where the pinch bolt threads into the linkage arm. I tap the chisel into the gap. My goal is to slowly insert the chisel into the gap and release clamping pressure on the axle. Do not drive the chisel deeply into the gap, you'll ruin the linkage arm. You just want to wedge it firm enough into the gap to slightly spread and release clamping pressure on the axle.

I prefer to use a then tapered chisel so that I do not mar or mushroom the edges of the gap in the linkage arm. I can be more precise with a thin tapered chisel. If you use a thick, wide tapered chisel, you will have to really drive it hard into the gap. This in turn will mar and round over/mushroom the edges of the linkage arm gap. A flat tipped screwdriver will also cause marring. The width/surface area of the screwdriver is too small. Use a thin tapered chisel, it's wide surface area is less likely to cause marring or damage.

With the chisel inserted into the gap on the linkage arm, I once again apply head and use my soft rubber mallet to release the linkage arm from the axle. This method works.

As a side note, I've not had to use the chisel method once I began channeling my inner Bob Ross and sparingly applied the 638. You live and you learn.....

Be safe,
Rod

 

[richlock]

Thanks Rod,
I'm in the light application camp (I hope) and as you say leave the non driveside assembly as one piece.
Many thanks Rich