Levo Gen 3 Magura MT7 or Shimano XT 4 pots?

[Renton]

So to update this thread... In the end I went with the MT7 and so far I have mixed feelings about them.

They are immensely powerful brakes, no doubt about that.

The back one has been perfect, no rub and seems to wearing evenly.

The front one however is constantly rubbing, no matter how many times I adjust it you can guarantee that it will start rubbing again. I've checked the pistons and they done seem to be sticking so not sure why.

If I was to do it again Id probably revert back to Shimano.

 

[Stihldog]

Occasionally I need to service and clean the Mt7 calliper. Usually when I change the pads (Magura Performance). I also extend and clean each piston individually. This exercises each piston and helps any sticking issues. There is a small plastic tool that helps with this.
I find that breaking in 220mm rotors and pads can take a bit more effort. The chances of calliper misalignment is slightly greater with the larger (220mm) rotors also. Carefully inspect for a misaligned calliper.

 

[unclezz]

So to update this thread... In the end I went with the MT7 and so far I have mixed feelings about them.

They are immensely powerful brakes, no doubt about that.

The back one has been perfect, no rub and seems to wearing evenly.

The front one however is constantly rubbing, no matter how many times I adjust it you can guarantee that it will start rubbing again. I've checked the pistons and they done seem to be sticking so not sure why.

I experienced the same with a larger disk brake (203mm) constantly rubbing.

After a few rides though it aligned by itself. I am not sure if this is a good thing or not but at least to me the issue is gone.
I struggled a lot with Magura brakes and even though I agree they ar super powerful they are definitely not the easiest brakes to manage (as amateur).

 

[unclezz]

Occasionally I need to service and clean the Mt7 calliper. Usually when I change the pads (Magura Performance). I also extend and clean each piston individually. This exercises each piston and helps any sticking issues. There is a small plastic tool that helps with this. View attachment 102282
I find that breaking in 220mm rotors and pads can take a bit more effort. The chances of calliper misalignment is slightly greater with the larger (220mm) rotors also. Carefully inspect for a misaligned calliper.

Do you have a link to downlaod the stl?

 

[Stihldog]

Do you have a link to downlaod the stl?

If you mean the small plastic tools …R3Pro

Search google. I think he’s based in the UK. Seems to be expanding his 3D Printing solutions. Especially for brakes.
I’ve ordered a few items from him and they were delivered, no problem, to BC

 

[Stihldog]

After a few rides though it aligned by itself. I am not sure if this is a good thing or not but at least to me the issue is gone.

The break-in procedure for new pads is very important. You can align the calliper as best as you can but the wheel may not spin smoothly or there may be a ticking noise when the brakes are applied.
As you may know, the holes/slots in the rotor will shave the surface of new pads very slightly. That’s a necessary part of the break-in process. Soon your brakes will be quiet, smooth and effective. Unless the pads and/or rotor is contaminated. Or the calliper is misaligned. Or the wrong type of pad material is used.

 

[Cell4soul]

I haven’t run Magura brakes, but would strongly suggest looking at XTR instead of XT. up until my most recent bIke build, all my bikes had XT brakes. On my current bike, I am running XTR brakes with Jagwire braided cables and MTX Gold pads. This setup is noticeably better than my XT setups.

 

[whwv]

@whwv how’s your clearance in the back? Any pics? Which spacer did you use?

Clearance just makes it. No issues with the river, but if the rotor gets tweaked good the lower piece will run against the mount until it’s bent back.

 

[cappuccino34]

Clearance just makes it. No issues with the river, but if the rotor gets tweaked good the lower piece will run against the mount until it’s bent back.

View attachment 102502 View attachment 102503

It looks in the picture like the inner face of the caliper mounting lug is more inboard than the left inner face of the disc pathway in the caliper, which is very silly if that's the case.

 

[RickBullotta]

Particularly with MT7's, the old technique of "loosen the bolts, squeeze the lever, tighten the bolts" isn't always effective. I eyeball the pad/rotor position with a light source behind them and adjust accordingly, manually. Also, I have found that the hemispherical washers that come with Shimano and other brakes are counterproductive when trying to set up Maguras. Don't know why. It just "is".

Once set up, mine have been perfect for a few hundred miles of riding thus far.

 

[James_C]

what is the point of those dished washers, I've never understood it. what are you supposed to do with them?!

 

[cappuccino34]

Particularly with MT7's, the old technique of "loosen the bolts, squeeze the lever, tighten the bolts" isn't always effective. I eyeball the pad/rotor position with a light source behind them and adjust accordingly, manually. Also, I have found that the hemispherical washers that come with Shimano and other brakes are counterproductive when trying to set up Maguras. Don't know why. It just "is".

Once set up, mine have been perfect for a few hundred miles of riding thus far.

I have exactly the same procedure.

I'm doing a little mod to mine which involves fitting grub screws into the side of the caliper so that they have a 'stop' that can be returned to whenever the caliper has to be removed, to save myself the faff.

 

[cappuccino34]

what is the point of those dished washers, I've never understood it. what are you supposed to do with them?!

They're misalignment washers, because the spacer is often tapered so the bolts are askew to the clamping surface without the convex/concave washers that fix the misalignment.

 

[whwv]

It looks in the picture like the inner face of the caliper mounting lug is more inboard than the left inner face of the disc pathway in the caliper, which is very silly if that's the case.

Yes, but that’s where it needs to be for everything to line up. It does limit the adjustment on the caliper as the pads wear. That’s where the clearance just makes it. On the old setup I didn’t care much if I had a lazy piston, but in this one I have make sure they are all working the same.