Anyone with a well setup SRAM 10-52 cassette able to help?

jamied

jamied

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I've just installed a SRAM 10-52 cassette with the AXS system. I followed the SRAM guide for setting the chain length and it was total crap, the chain was so long it had sag in the smallest cog. I've shortened the chain a bit more and it's better but I'm not sure if it's still a little too long.

Would someone with a well setup SRAM 10-52 cassette be able to take a photo of their derailleur in the biggest and smallest cog so I can see what it looks like compared to mine?
 
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Did you use the chain gap tool? It's pretty foolproof.

TL6573_x1024.jpg
 
Jersey Skier said:
Did you use the chain gap tool? It's pretty foolproof.
Click to expand...

The chain gap tool is for setting the b tension gap, which is the distance between the derailleur pulley wheel and the cassette. This is a totally different thing than the length of the chain, which is what I'm interested in.
 
Seem to recall when I did mine the SRAM video said.
Round the largest cog with all the air out of the shock fully compressed plus 2 links.


 
highpeakrider said:
Seem to recall when I did mine the SRAM video said.
Round the largest cog with all the air out of the shock fully compressed plus 2 links.
Click to expand...

Like I said, I followed the sram guide and it was way too long.
 
jamied said:
The chain gap tool is for setting the b tension gap, which is the distance between the derailleur pulley wheel and the cassette. This is a totally different thing than the length of the chain, which is what I'm interested in.
Click to expand...

If B tension is not correct, your chain will seem way too long in the highest gear. This is why I asked.
 
i’d install the chain through the derailleur and put on largest cog , let all the air out of the shock and fully compress the suspension and see how slack the chain is and reduce links if the chain is to slack. That way you know you can use full travel without putting stress on the system.
 
Not being funny but you've definitely done something wrong, the Sram instructions will get you perfect chain length if followed exactly. Not got pictures to upload but the cage should hang just below horizontal when in smallest cog, if the cage is all the way up it can't provide any tension. If I were you I would just take out another set of links.
 
Jamied,

I've attached pictures of my AXS on the small and big cogs.

Here is my method for replacing the chain on a new drivetrain where the old chain length is not applicable due to change of cassette or chain ring size. There are a lot of methods out there for chain counting, measuring, etc., this method is simple and has always worked perfectly for me:

1. Shift your derailleur down to the smallest cassette cog.

2. Wrap the new chain around the front chain ring clockwise and pull the chain around until it's about half way to the derailleur. Note, you want the loose chain end hanging beneath the chain stay and not above the chain stay.

3. Take the other loose end of the chain and feed it over the smallest cassette cog. Thread the chain through the derailleur arm and around the derailleur wheels. Pull the chain through the derailleur wheel until the loose end meets the other loose end of the chain beneath the chain stay.

4. Firmly hold the chain ring side of the chain in one hand. Firmly hold the derailleur side of the chain ring in the other hand.

5. Begin pulling the two chain ends together. As you pull the two ends of the chain together, watch the derailleur arm as it begins to tension and move forward. Keep pulling the chain ends until the derailleur arm is in the horizontal position.

6. While maintaining the chain tension, note where the two chain ends meet. Keep in mind you will be adding a quick link to join the two chain ends together, so accommodate for the quick link length. With your thumb, mark the spot on the chain where you need to remove the unnecessary links. Join the chain ends together with the quick link.

7. Here's the trick...With the chain on the smallest derailleur cog and the derailleur arm tensioned horizontal, you will always have the correct chain length when shifted onto the largest derailleur cog. Simple, and it works.

Note: If you have a double or triple chain ring on the front of your bike, you want to start with the chain on the largest front chain ring.


IMG_0654.JPG


IMG_0653.JPG
 
jamied said:
I've just installed a SRAM 10-52 cassette with the AXS system. I followed the SRAM guide for setting the chain length and it was total crap, the chain was so long it had sag in the smallest cog. I've shortened the chain a bit more and it's better but I'm not sure if it's still a little too long.

Would someone with a well setup SRAM 10-52 cassette be able to take a photo of their derailleur in the biggest and smallest cog so I can see what it looks like compared to mine?
Click to expand...
Hi Here are pictures of my AXS SRAM but I have swapped to a SRAM 10-50 cassette at the moment. When I first changed the chain I counted the number of links on the existing as it was changing ok before.
When I went from a 52 to a 50 I measured the circumference of each largest cog on the cassette and took that many links out...I think it was one but maybe two.
My derailleur doesn't seem as vertical as yours in largest cog position and your B gap a bit closer but it changes ok.

IMG_5512.jpeg


IMG_5513.jpeg
 
Hi Jaimed,

I was actually looking into getting the AXS and yesterday watched the How To: SRAM AXS Eagle Drivetrain Install & Setup (Step-by-Step)


Chain install is at 9:54

HTH
 
My SRAM 12 speed is the same as above. ln the smallest rear sprocket the derailleur is pretty much horizontal with an even gap between lower chain run and derailleur cage.
 
I didn't notice there was more replies here, I didn't get notified for some reason. Thanks @Rod B. & @Giff that's perfect. I can see that I need to take a link or 2 out as when in the largest cog there is more slack in the derailleur on mine which I thought was the case.

I followed the SRAM guide to the letter, I didn't even have a derailleur installed when I sized the chain to it wasn't wrapped around it. The only thing that possibly could have happened is I cut a different chain link that I intended, but I am fairly certain I cut the one I had picked out.
 
I think I know what’s going on. Just checked the chain again and it’s actually 1 link shorter than if I followed the guide to hitch makes sense as I remove 1 extra link.

So I’m wondering is it’s because I have 170mm rear travel.There would be more distance between fully compressed and normal ride heightwhich would introduce more slack into the system making. If the photos on the above bikes are140-150mm then I assume the chain would be a little tighter than mine.

Now do I remove a link or 2 more to get better tension and assume that I’m never going to be in the largest cog when I hit full suspension compression, or do I leave it as it is? I’m getting more chain noise than I’m expecting in the largest cog and I wonder if that’s because the chain is not wrapped around the cog as much as is shown in the other photos.

here’s what it looks like currently at full compression

E10B1170-FB5C-46C4-BA10-7132B298D9E2.jpeg
 
That's right on the limit, l would suggest you add one link, if that's possible.

Although, don't worry too much if you can't, because what's the likelihood of you fully compressing the suspension when in the largest rear sprocket when actually riding the bike?

Just make it one link longer next time you replace the chain.
 
lightning said:
Although, don't worry too much if you can't, because what's the likelihood of you fully compressing the suspension when in the largest rear sprocket when actually riding the bike?
Click to expand...

That was my thinking too, never going to happen.

there’s just more slack than I was expecting and can see on other bikes When the suspension is not compressed so thought is must be wrong. There is more noise than I was expecting in the largest cog and it’s correctly adjusted, I’m very particular about my gears, to the point were I would normally have to readjust the gears to operate perfectly after a shop has adjusted them, so can notice it. But maybe that just how they sound due to the number of gears and the chain line.
 
My SRAM 12 speed doesn't make any noise in the large sprocket

However if you fit a new chain to a used cassette, it can be noisy in the most used gears for a few rides.
 
lightning said:
My SRAM 12 speed doesn't make any noise in the large sprocket

However if you fit a new chain to a used cassette, it can be noisy in the most used gears for a few rides.
Click to expand...

I went for a test ride and it wasn’t noticeable, just when in the stand a slight bit of noise.

new cassette, new chain, it’s a kmc chain rather than sram so don’t know if that has anything to do with it.
Maybe it will quiet down after a few rides.
 
jamied said:
I went for a test ride and it wasn’t noticeable, just when in the stand a slight bit of noise.

new cassette, new chain, it’s a kmc chain rather than sram so don’t know if that has anything to do with it.
Maybe it will quiet down after a few rides.
Click to expand...

I tried a KMC for about 4 rides hoping things would get better. Shifting was louder and slower. The chain also held on to the front sprocket so it made some additional noise there. I eventually found an Eagle chain and everything is dead quiet again. This is on a cassette and chainring wih about 700 miles of use.
 
Jersey Skier said:
I tried a KMC for about 4 rides hoping things would get better. Shifting was louder and slower. The chain also held on to the front sprocket so it made some additional noise there. I eventually found an Eagle chain and everything is dead quiet again. This is on a cassette and chainring wih about 700 miles of use.
Click to expand...

I’ll see how I get on. The kmc is an ebike chain so I thought it would be better as it’s stronger than a sram. I didn’t have any issues shifting on my short test ride So hopefully that will continue.
 
Rod B. said:
Here's an interesting article on 12 speed chain compatibility. I imagine KMC is no different than SRAM or Shimano.

mtbengineer.blogspot.com

Shimano vs Sram 12-speed chains

Comparison of the Shimano and Sram 12-speed Eagle MTB chains and compatibility review
mtbengineer.blogspot.com mtbengineer.blogspot.com
Click to expand...

thanks, that’s interesting and may be why it’s not 100% perfect. I did go for a ride today and it’s running smoother now so maybe it just needed some bedding in. I don’t think my brother was too happy with the ride, started out with about 2km of steep technical climbing and he’s on a regular bike, then on the way back down he blew his tire on a rock, probably in a large part due to him having a hard tail. Oops lol, I don’t think I’ll do that route again with him.

I thought it would be better to have an “ebike” chain over a sram but maybe that logic is flawed.
 
jamied said:
thanks, that’s interesting and may be why it’s not 100% perfect. I did go for a ride today and it’s running smoother now so maybe it just needed some bedding in. I don’t think my brother was too happy with the ride, started out with about 2km of steep technical climbing and he’s on a regular bike, then on the way back down he blew his tire on a rock, probably in a large part due to him having a hard tail. Oops lol, I don’t think I’ll do that route again with him.

I thought it would be better to have an “ebike” chain over a sram but maybe that logic is flawed.
Click to expand...

That's funny, my brother had the same experience with me...Brothers are made for messing with.
 
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