LETS SEE YOUR RIDE FOOTAGE

Mikerb said:
what mount are you using and what camera resolution?
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Unless i accidently changed something it'll be running 4k60 with hypersmooth on (not boost). The angle thing was mainly due to moving the camera about, so the top of the helmet view was pointed too far down. i need to find a reliable way to mark out angles for different camera positions. When it is on the chin i mainly just push it all the way down then back up 5-10 degrees and that's ok for my own view but not ideal for following others (hence the top of the helmet position). I've been trying to stay away from the chesty mount but now that i have a chest protector i might just give in and use that as i do like still having part of the bike in shot rather than just a floaty camera pointing forwards.

I'm just constantly messing with the camera positions so when i get to wales i actually have enough good footage to use (that includes other people)

Also likely to start doing voiceover on the video so i don't feel really weird talking to nobody when out.
 
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Rahr85 said:
Bit of a weird one. Go pro angle was all over the place on a bunch of the clips rendering that footage useless (unless you like to watch the ground go by) and i managed to pick up a puncture on the way. Regardless, it's the weekly attempt to play about with editing and try to make something bordering on watchable.

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Top Job !

Your Blyke Whyte looks the danglies.
 
Rahr85 said:
Unless i accidently changed something it'll be running 4k60 with hypersmooth on (not boost). The angle thing was mainly due to moving the camera about, so the top of the helmet view was pointed too far down. i need to find a reliable way to mark out angles for different camera positions. When it is on the chin i mainly just push it all the way down then back up 5-10 degrees and that's ok for my own view but not ideal for following others (hence the top of the helmet position). I've been trying to stay away from the chesty mount but now that i have a chest protector i might just give in and use that as i do like still having part of the bike in shot rather than just a floaty camera pointing forwards.

I'm just constantly messing with the camera positions so when i get to wales i actually have enough good footage to use (that includes other people)

Also likely to start doing voiceover on the video so i don't feel really weird talking to nobody when out.
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With any body mounted Gopro POV a 16:9 format is always going to give problems precisely for the reasons you have identified. A 4:3 format gives you a taller frame to work with so camera angle is less critical...........it does however require need to be converted to 16:9 in post edit properly which is an issue if you do not have both the knowledge of how to do that or a video editor with the right functionality. There is an easy solution however! Use Superview..........it provides the same frame height as 4:3 whilst combining that with the more than 16:9 width. Depending which model Gopro you are using check which resolutions offer the use of Superview. I use the Gopro Hero 7 Black and the resolution I use most of the time is 2.7k @ 50 fps Superview. If you check my video " Old Harry Rocks" above in this thread you can check the framing it gives. The Gopro was mounted on a chinguard mount ( Telesin). The Gopro is mounted upside down and the angle is set at 2 finger widths between the back of the Gopro and the chin guard....and once set I never need to move it.
 
that's probably what did it. i usually had it set to 4k30 with superview on, but 60 drops it down to wide. i think i might just record in 2.7k/60 for the next few sessions and see. I just get sucked into the temptation to use 4k as it becomes more of a standard. Using 2.7k will make my cpu a bit happier. Whilst i'm getting the hang of the edit i don't really want to have to be reframing video so it's best to have the raw footage as close to the finished product as possible.

2.7k/60 or 4k/30.
 
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Rahr85 said:
that's probably what did it. i usually had it set to 4k30 with superview on, but 60 drops it down to wide. i think i might just record in 2.7k/60 for the next few sessions and see. I just get sucked into the temptation to use 4k as it becomes more of a standard. Using 2.7k will make my cpu a bit happier. Whilst i'm getting the hang of the edit i don't really want to have to be reframing video so it's best to have the raw footage as close to the finished product as possible.

2.7k/60 or 4k/30.
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I will probably draw disagreement......BUT..........in my opinion 4k is a nonsence as far as action cameras are concerned. It is primarily designed for use when on a fixed platform ( tripod) in excellent light and preferably a scene with few moving elements. OK it uses the complete sensor but the biggest limiting factor of the Gopro is processing power and buffering. There are some gains from using higher resolutions however provided that resolution is actually achieved and not limited by other factors. Ultimtely there is little point then rendering in anything above 1080 when the most common viewing platforms are phones, and PC screens...or even HD TVs the majority of which are 1080P. I can show you a 4k video and a 2.7k video and guarantee you will not see a difference apart from the fact that for a mobile mount in less than ideal light and the image is a moving target, the 2.7k is likely to be better.
2.7k 16.9 Superview also uses the more common H264 codec rather than the HEVC codec which many editing suites still do not implement very well. By avoiding HEVC and 4k you also avoid the need to push the editing suite into auto proxy edit mode. I also use Protune to get more control over exposure and colour. I explain the settings I use on a video on my YT channel ( mikerbwind) called "4th Nov" if you are interested.
 
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that overshoot at the beginning could have gone very wrong! Great vid, place to ride.
 
My first try of recording my ride. Warning. It's actually a bit boring since the ride contains loads of transportation (meaning; cycling on gravel and asphalt). But I'm happy with the quality. The GoPro 7 is mounted in the handle bar almost centered. Should I choose to go with a wider focal length so the front wheel is visible?

The interesting bit is between 5:00 and 7:00. The rest is incredibly dull and unexciting.


Bonus points if you spot the roe deer and double points for spotting a cat ;)

The Swedish title is translated to "An evening ride in the Sorunda forest".
 
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Yes getting the bars into the shot provides a reference both for speed and also for context. If you are going to continue using a mount on the bars you need a better front mudguard to stop the lens getting splattered but I would recommend a chesty as a better alternative.
 
Mikerb said:
Yes getting the bars into the shot provides a reference both for speed and also for context.
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Good point. Thanks! I'll google some mounts and see what I find. Most of the chesty and helmet mounted videos aren't very well produced and when I watch some it feels like I want to tilt my head backwards to look up and get a better view, if you know what I mean.

Right now I'm thinking about an extension arm that's pointing backwards. That might do the trick.

Mikerb said:
If you are going to continue using a mount on the bars you need a better front mudguard to stop the lens getting splattered but I would recommend a chesty as a better alternative.
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I noticed ? It was an insane mud splatter when I rode over the field.
 
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PaleSkinnySwede said:
Good point. Thanks! I'll google some mounts and see what I find. Most of the chesty and helmet mounted videos aren't very well produced and when I watch some it feels like I want to tilt my head backwards to look up and get a better view, if you know what I mean.

Right now I'm thinking about an extension arm that's pointing backwards. That might do the trick.


I noticed ? It was an insane mud splatter when I rode over the field.
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Using a mount on the bars creates a lot of camera shake. Image stabilisation smooths that out but uses a lot of processing power in the process. Adding an extension will be even less stable. The 3 optimum mounts on a bike are helmet mount, chinbar mount (full face helmet) and chesty mount. Helmet mount and chinbar mount are the most stable because your neck acts as a gimbal. Helmet mount is however also the highest and the higher the mount the more Gopro flattens the terrain and also the less the impression of speed becomes. You also have to be aware that everytime you look to one side you are panning and a fast pan is not pleasant to watch on a video. It is also a little more difficult to operate the buttons and of course you cannot see any of the indicator LEDS. The chesty overcomes many of those issues. Its 2 main drawbacks are that you cannot pan to the side and you have to adjust the camera angle when you go from a seated to a standing on the pedals position. Personally after years of using a chesty mount, I now prefer to use a chinbar mount. It is stable, you can pan, reach the buttons easily, and do not need to adjust angle once you have found the ideal one because regardless your position on the bike your head should be at the same angle looking ahead on the trail. It does mean wearing a full face helmet but that is something I now do on every "proper" mtb ride anyway.
 
I’ll switch from chesty to chin mount for full face days . A lot of people use the chesty but have it too low , the higher on the chest the better and the less sit/stand movement is noticeable . I like to see some frame and bars for a more sense of speed plus my gloves are ??
 
You're a braver Man than me, Bambam! :)

My legs wouldn't stand up to those landings nowadays...:(
 
A quick-ish burn round the sunny south downs. My saddle creaks, I know.

 
dixie600mhz said:
Spider Mountain Bike Park just outside Austin, Texas.

then a crash on a local drop after 26 mile enduro run. Almost home. Shouldn't have tried it on this day.
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Dude hope you’re ok , that could’ve been nasty ! We’re you going too slow ?
 
#lazy said:
Dude hope you’re ok , that could’ve been nasty ! We’re you going too slow ?
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Thanks! Opposite, going too fast. There's a 1 foot no mans land gap you need to clear but if you go too fast the 4' drop becomes a +6' drop. It was on the way home after a really long day. Shouldn't have done it that day. Was tired and didn't even try to keep the front up. Cracked a few ribs right when covid outbreak started. It hurt to laugh about it at the time. Luckily I'm still here and dodged the virus : )
 
I'm going to put the rest up later in the week when i piece together the videos and have the camera angle from the go pro that didn't fall off when i hit the ground hard.

this is why novices should never try jump lines when they aren't feeling up to it that day.
 
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