Anyone have issues with their cranks coming loose?

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Regardless of the bike brand if new it is a good idea to check the torque value of the crank bolts for the first few rides as they settle in. Was much worse with square taper cranks but splined cranks also need that initial attention.

But wait, I thought you just got a Rise and now you have a Trek?
 
Yep mine kept coming loose no matter what locktight I used .. once they start becoming loose they don't stop.. usually the non drive side... I bought some Praxis works cranks and haven't had an issue since ?
 
And here I thought I was the only one. I have to tighten the cranks every time I ride.
 
If your cranks keep coming loose and you are correctly torquing up the crank bolt it's because the female part of the spline has been damaged by the steel axle and no amount of tightening will sort it. It's not strictly speaking a warranty issue, but it is an issue with the PDI done by the shop so you need to get them to sort it.
 
Doomanic said:
If your cranks keep coming loose and you are correctly torquing up the crank bolt it's because the female part of the spline has been damaged by the steel axle and no amount of tightening will sort it. It's not strictly speaking a warranty issue, but it is an issue with the PDI done by the shop so you need to get them to sort it.
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Do the crank bolts not come torqued properly from the factory? I think that you've had your Rail for a while. Do you think that it's still a problem?
 
My non drive side crank came loose once, when my bike was about 6 months old. I did it up as soon as I noticed (which is arguably too late as the crank is already moving on the axle at this point so the damage may already be done) and rode home. Then I took it off, cleaned up the mating surface and refitted applying the correct torque. I then checked it after every ride for a month (so 4 times a week at that point) and it hasn’t come undone since.
 
Four Flusher said:
Do the crank bolts not come torqued properly from the factory? I think that you've had your Rail for a while. Do you think that it's still a problem?
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I have no idea if the cranks are even fitted at the factory or at the LBS during the PDI but it certainly doesn’t hurt to check them periodically.
 
40Nm
 
The Rail has a Bosch motor, which is 40Nm. Shimano figures are irrelevant and potentially confusing in this thread.
 
Doomanic said:
The Rail has a Bosch motor, which is 40Nm. Shimano figures are irrelevant and potentially confusing in this thread.
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Yup - he mentioned a Rise as well. Thanks for the clarification though and sorry for causing any confusion. Cheers.
 
No amount of loctite or torquing is going to stop those eThirteen cranks from coming loose and the pedals will eventually strip. It is a known, common problem with them on the Rail. Replace them with something else and save yourself a lot of inconvenience.
 
runjhike said:
No amount of loctite or torquing is going to stop those eThirteen cranks from coming loose and the pedals will eventually strip. It is a known, common problem with them on the Rail. Replace them with something else and save yourself a lot of inconvenience.
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Do you know what options are out there for bosch cranks in 160 or 165?
 
It does seem to be a fairly common problem and usually the non-drive side. I had it happen once and lost the crank bolt which made for an interesting ride home. I now check them fairly regularly just to be sure.
 
Check my post here: Waiting is over - EMTB Forums

In short this was a huge problem. Trek replaced my crank, but i bought a replacement first because I was tired of waiting. Do not bother with thread locker - it does not work and just makes a big mess. Once the crank has come loose, you can't tighten it any more. The soft aluminum is damaged.

My recommendation is to torque to 40 NM right after you get it, then after a few miles, then again after a few rides. In my experience, it doesn't come loose after that. I do this after EVERY time I pull the crank.
 
Gutch said:
Just curious if this is happening. Thanks
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My jam2 lost the non drive side crank twice on the last ride. Only had the multi tool so did not get great torque. My fault as it does come loose and needs constant checking. Think locktight may be the go on next service
 
Just saw this post, or maybe did not read it well in prior searches.
Anyway, I ordered Race Face 165mm this morning as the last hope to loosening of the drive-side crank arm after each ride.
I was going to let the LBS look at it, but they take forever to have a look and love to tell me this is the first time we have ever heard of that issue and of course look at me like I have marbles dropping from my ears. Then if they warranty stuff it is a wait and wait and wait and of course no proactive check-in calls. Sometimes I get lucky and the guy wrenching on the $50 kids' bike will school me on how MTB's work. I sure Luv this pandemic.
There seems to be hope that the issue is related to the cranks - fingers crossed and now an 8mm allen wrench rides with me.

Just goes to show "If it's not Scottish, It's Crap!"
 
I have replaced the E13 cranks with Raceface Aeffect cranks. So far, so good. The RF Cranks state 45ftlb of torque. I tighten them in stages, cause 45 seemed super tight. All went well, 15miles of hills streets and jumps, not a budge. E13 drive side was needing a tighten 3-4 times during the same ride.

Pics of both cranks below -
Hard to see in the photos, but the RF crank has much tighter tolerances in the splines and gap between the bolt.
The non-Drive side needed a puller to come off - $17 - pic of tool attached

E13Drvside.jpg


RFdrvside.jpg


image0.jpeg


image4.jpeg


image5.jpeg
 
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Rail 7.
Is the left side non drive side right handed normal threads and the right side left handed threads? I have about 55 miles and want to check the torque, but I don't want to loosen them to find out I went the wrong direction.
 
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