Does this look weird to you? (rear derailleur)

deksawyer

E*POWAH Master
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Fife, Scotland
New cassette, 11-46 (from 11-42)
New derailleur (same as before)
New chain.

The chain started with 120 links. I removed 4 complete links but chain was still a bit droopy on smallest cog. Removed 2 more and this is where we're at. Chain tension seem fine but derailleur looks really folded up and there's minimal clearance between top and bottom chain line.

Is chain still too long?

Original 11-42 setup had 114 links.

Cheers

Deek.
IMG20210224150740.jpg
IMG20210224150721.jpg


IMG20210224152303.jpg
 
Last edited:
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New cassette, 11-46 (from 11-42)
New derailleur (same as before)
New chain.

The chain started with 120 links. I removed 4 complete links but chain was still a bit droopy on smallest cog. Removed 2 more and this is where we're at. Chain tension seem fine but derailleur looks really folded up and there's minimal clearance between top and bottom chain line.

Is chain still too long?

Original 11-42 setup had 114 links.

Cheers

Deek. View attachment 53986View attachment 53987

View attachment 53988
Personally I'd remove one more link , looks close but that's just my opinion ?
 
I like to see the mech arm pointing forward at 45 degrees when in the biggest gear at the back. Before riding, fully compress the suspension to check that the chain is still long enough, or bad things may happen.
 
SRAM 11 speed designed around 42T max. Have seen it used with a 46t cassette but won’t be perfect. Could probably do with losing another link, but deflate shock first and cycle the suspension through its travel.
Guy I knew who raced DH was always snapping mech hangers. Turns out he was running chain too short and when he hit a drop in wrong gear, the mech hanger was weakest link in system.
 
I would suggest making a hook from wire to take up some slack in the chain to get an idea if the suspension will cause problems. If when bottoming out suspension at standstill, the chain is too tight the wire will then release the link. Having said that I thought the suspension design was such that it shouldn't make much difference in extension or compression.
 
Remove the air from your shock and compress the rear suspension until max chain growth point and then shorten your chain as short as it can in the largest sprocket.
As you have it now you have fuck all tension in the chain on your highest gear so fast descending will create a load of chainslap.
 
I have another chain with 2 less links (inner & outer) fitted that and all is well. Thanks everyone.
 
As this is a chain topic i might just post it here.
I changed my front sprocket fro 20t to 18t do i need to shorten the chain or is it ok?
 
Well, watch this....although it didn't seem to work too well on a bike with the smaller bosch chainring hence my question in the 1st place.

I'd fit it and see.

Yea i do have a smaller bosch front chainring.
Sram
SmartSelect_20210301-194124_OneDrive.jpg

parktool
SmartSelect_20210301-194856_Opera.jpg

Those dont look the same or do i see that wrong?
 
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