Levo head stock creak

[Paul Mac]

Sorted the creak today.
Don't know how long it will last, but as I suspected the problem especially on the carbon models is that the head set bearings actually have a small bit of play between the bearing and the frame, and this slight gap causes the creak.
I simply put one layer of ptfe tape around the circumference of both the top and bottom bearing and then reinserted them.
This small amount of tape took up the slack and hey presto no more creak ?
This is a worry though, because where there's movement wear will occur, and I can see a time where the bearings become loose in the frame and then the forks will move too and throw rendering the frame useless ☹

 

[Al Boneta]

I haven’t seen a gap or play in the bearings on any carbon models.

 

[Paul Mac]

Well there definitely is on mine and the fact I can wrap tape round the bearing and it still easy slides into place backs this up.
I also have three mates with levos and Kenevos and they all creak bar one and his bike is only a month old.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

I don’t have a gap but do have a creak, pretty much every other ride like you’re describing.

 

[Stumpy]

I don’t have a gap but do have a creak, pretty much every other ride like you’re describing.

Same except mine is EVERY ride.. mines going into the lbs midweek for a service and I’m hoping they can sort it out - my seat post is creaking too. It annoys me immensely ? but... it doesn’t stop me riding everyday though ?

 

[Larsey]

My 18 Levo FSR base develops a creak about halfway into each ride. I was going to replace the plastic stem spacers with alloy but reading this I bet it is the bearings. It is dead quiet until 30-45 minutes in. When pulling up on the bar it will creak. Kind of annoying because the bike otherwise is one of the quietest bikes I have owned (acoustic or electric)

 

[Al Boneta]

Well there definitely is on mine and the fact I can wrap tape round the bearing and it still easy slides into place backs this up.
I also have three mates with levos and Kenevos and they all creak bar one and his bike is only a month old.

It doesn’t back up your claim that Carbon models have gaps. Since two of your three mates have creaks and one of them is Kenevo (not carbon), this doesn’t back it up either.
Bikes are mechanical devices, parts can wear out causing noise, dirt can contaminate components causing noise and components out of tolerance can cause noise.
The biggest culprit is when routine maintenance is performed
From time to time we get bikes with internal headsets in the shop for creaking. We will often replace the bearings after cleaning all contact points thoroughly. We will also apply a thin layer of Dumond Tech Micro Resistance grease to all contact points

We then reassemble the headset and make sure to use correct torque specifications for the stem with a torque wrench. That takes care of it 99% of the time.
However, if the headset has been ridden loose it can elongate bearing cups and cause a gap.
If you have a noticeable gap, stop riding the bike at once and bring it in to your local dealer for an assessment and possible warranty action

 

[levity]

Mrs levity and I have not noticed any creaking on our 2018 Comp Carbon Levos in 9 months, but maybe we're too focused on the fun. Will try to listen more carefully as we abuse them once again tomorrow...

edit: Bike ran smoothly and quietly today, as always. What exactly is the noise some of you are hearing?

 

[TMS]

This is an old thread. But anyway.

Does anybody have loose headset lower bearing cup in 2019 S WORKS frame? I have. I can move bearing from side to side with my fingers. The play is approximately 0.5 - 0.7 mm. This means that there is always some play in fork too. I think bearing is not allowed to move if properly installed and tightened. If so how have you handled the situation?

 

[Paul Mac]

There are no removable bearing cups in the Levo's, they are just a taper fit.
It is normal to have a bit of play between the bearing and the frame, the slack gets taken up when the head stock gets tightened.

 

[Neverbeentomoab]

On most headsets there is a conical washer that sits on top of the top bearing and under the headset top cover.this will take up any slack in the headset when properly tightened even if it seems like there’s a gap between bearing and frame.never taken a levo apart (yet) but it should be similar to other bikes.

 

[TMS]

Yes taper fit. A Loose one. But I tightened it now and I'll give it a try.

 

[Davey S]

I have the same issue it’s driving me mad no noise when just riding around but after a few jumps or serious downhill runs I get the creaking. Last night i stripped the whole headset down cleaned re-greased and re assembled. I went for a gentle ride today and am not convinced the problem is sorted. I’m going to try and jamb the top tube full of something to stop the cables moving to rule out the cables. Might try the ptfe tape after that. Otherwise I’m at a loss. #Specialized customer care.

 

[McInner1]

My Levo S-Works starts to creak, too.
Has anyone had any experience with the Shimano Anti Seize paste? It should remove the creaking noise from the steering bearing.
Buy SHIMANO Anti Seize assembly paste | ROSE Bikes

 

[Trumpet]

Same issue here. Constant creak/rattle from the headset. Mid ride, I tightened the stem up, 10 miles later, it's back.

 

[TMS]

On most headsets there is a conical washer that sits on top of the top bearing and under the headset top cover.this will take up any slack in the headset when properly tightened even if it seems like there’s a gap between bearing and frame.never taken a levo apart (yet) but it should be similar to other bikes.

You were right. I rode 60 km like a mad and there is no slack. So it was not tightened properly. I think it still creaks a little but not constantly. Maybe I check the upper bearing as well and give it a good clean and some new grease.

 

[Mikerb]

The bottom sealed bearing sits on a split bearing race which in turn sits on fork saddle. What is good about that arrangement is that you do not need a puller to remove it from the fork steerer tube. What is bad about it is that dust and grit can get between it and where it sits on the saddle. Strip clean and re grease will cure the noise. To hrlp prevent grit ingress again I fully re-assemble then using a finger press grease into the slight gap between the frame and the fork.

 

[Trumpet]

The bottom sealed bearing sits on a split bearing race which in turn sits on fork saddle. What is good about that arrangement is that you do not need a puller to remove it from the fork steerer tube. What is bad about it is that dust and grit can get between it and where it sits on the saddle. Strip clean and re grease will cure the noise. To hrlp prevent grit ingress again I fully re-assemble then using a finger press grease into the slight gap between the frame and the fork.

Did this yesterday. Has Indeed cured the issue.

 

[Supratad]

Thread resurrection . I have this creak that develops mid ride. I will try the above tomorrow as it sounds like the only thing it could be now I have cleaned and regreased everything else.

 

[Trumpet]

Thread resurrection . I have this creak that develops mid ride. I will try the above tomorrow as it sounds like the only thing it could be now I have cleaned and regreased everything else.

I re read this thread last weekeas mine reoccured. I bought new bearings. Sorted it. If you require the links, I'll send.

 

[Davey S]

Have you checked the forks are cut down enough? I took 10mm off mine and that sorted the creak out for me. Has never come back again since.

 

[Supratad]

Just bearings, or the whole headset. I also read that the split crown should be replaced with a normal one. Though cleaning it first would be the first move.

Fork steerer tube is stock. I can see how reducing height would reduce leverage but I’d rather stop the creak at source than reduce the action causing it, if that makes sense.

 

[Supratad]

Links to the right bearings would be good though. I can’t have worn them in 5 months of once a week though. It happened early in the bikes life and tightening the stem worked then.

 

[Davey S]

My steerer tube was cut about 1-2mm too long when delivered as stock so when I tightened up the top cap to the star nut it didn't put enough pressure on the headset and was creaking due to the minute movement. It took me three strips clean and redoes to realise this was the issue. Once I trimmed the steerer tube down I could tighten the headset to the point where I could feel resistance from the bearings then back it off until the headset bearings were free. Not saying it is the problem you have but it certainly worked for me after trying all other avenues. If you have a spare headset spacer you could try an extra one on top to eliminate this as the issue. If your steerer tube is 10mm below the top of your stem then i guess your fine aswell. If there is anything less than 5mm it is possible that it could be the issue.

 

[Davey S]

I think this is the hsadset bearings.
a 1-1/8" (41.8mm x 30.5 x 8mm, 45x45°) Campagnolo Standard compatible upper bearing and a 1.5" (52mm x 40 x 7mm, 45x45°) lower bearing

 

[Mikerb]

I had a headset noise which I could only ever hear when on tarmac and seemed only to be there if the pedalling action was enough to steer slightly left and right. Turned out to be grit in the seat tube! The harder pedalling action was enough to rock the seat post slightly.

 

[Supratad]

I keep just removed and cleaned / regreased the fork crown split ring and went out for ride, creak was no different. Just removed and cleaned seat clamp and post but not ridden that yet.

 

[Nick]

I’ve got the same issue on mine , I’ve put in new bearings too and bottom ,I’ve cleaned everything , I did notice play with the bottom bearing into the headset but no play once tightened up. The noise like a carbon creak only happens on a bit hit like to a flat landing and not all the time but is annoying , I’ve also checked the Tcu and cables going into the frame but to no avail. My bike is the turbo Levo expert with fox forks. I am wondering if the steerer tube is a fraction too long .ive got a small spacer on top just below the swat tool tensioner and I’d say the steerer tube is proud of the swot tool tension nut by 2-3 mm and which leaves another 2-3 mm for tightening up ?

 

[Supratad]

That’s what DaveyS said.

 

[Supratad]

My steerer tube was cut about 1-2mm too long when delivered as stock so when I tightened up the top cap to the star nut it didn't put enough pressure on the headset and was creaking due to the minute movement. It took me three strips clean and redoes to realise this was the issue. Once I trimmed the steerer tube down I could tighten the headset to the point where I could feel resistance from the bearings then back it off until the headset bearings were free. Not saying it is the problem you have but it certainly worked for me after trying all other avenues. If you have a spare headset spacer you could try an extra one on top to eliminate this as the issue. If your steerer tube is 10mm below the top of your stem then i guess your fine aswell. If there is anything less than 5mm it is possible that it could be the issue.

The steerer projects slightly above the stem and has one spacer between it and the stem cap, with 4 spacers under. There is only a few mm in it.
Are you suggesting trimming off some of the steerer so that I can ditch the top spacer and have more gap between top of tube and top of stem for the stem cap to bear down on.

Looked at new headsets and many have the split lower crown, inc the Hope ones. Which makes me think its must be "a thing" now.