Wireless mode switcher red light - battery replacement procedure?

[steve_sordy]

I collected my new bike Santa Cruz Vala 90 a few days ago, rode it straight away 24 miles on the red at Dalby Forest. The bike has the Bosch Performance CX BDU38 (Gen 5) motor complete with the latest upgrade 2.0. Using the Flow app, the guy at the shop set up the motor (it all seemed a bit rushed). And off I went!

I started in eMTB mode and it was surging a lot out of the corners. It was great when climbing uphill over collections of roots, but I was very soon using too much battery and I had to drop back to Tour and even Eco on the flat bits. I ended the day having covered 25 miles with an estimated 4 miles left.

I know that I will need to adjust all the settings myself to make the motor do what I need it to do. But what I really need is a guide to what all the terms mean and what increasing or reducing the setting actually does. I could just use trial or error, but I'm hoping to speed uo the process by using a good guide. I prefer to read and/or see something and to understand it before adjusting anything.

According to a post from @TubbyG, I can even add or remove modes completely. I have Turbo, emtb, Tour and Eco. But I have seen references to "emtb+" and "Auto"

I have been riding a Merida e-One Sixty with the Shimano EP8 for the past five years and there has been a lot of changes in that time.

 

[Greg Watts]

I collected my new bike Santa Cruz Vala 90 a few days ago, rode it straight away 24 miles on the red at Dalby Forest. The bike has the Bosch Performance CX BDU38 (Gen 5) motor complete with the latest upgrade 2.0. Using the Flow app, the guy at the shop set up the motor (it all seemed a bit rushed)....

@steve_sordy - welcome to Bosch. The good news: the learning curve is shorter than you think. The bad news: your shop set you loose on Dalby Red with default settings, which is a bit like handing someone car keys and forgetting to mention where the gears are.

Right, let's decode the whole system properly. THE MODES - WHAT THEY ACTUALLY DO

The Bosch Smart System has two families of modes: Linear (predictable, range-friendly):

• Eco - low assist, motor mirrors your effort proportionally. Conserves battery. Good for flat/fire road. • Tour - moderate linear assist. Your reliable workhorse for mixed terrain. What you wisely retreated to.

• Turbo - maximum linear assist. Brute force. Battery hungry. Dynamic (adaptive, context-aware):

• eMTB - the clever one. The motor curve is steep and non-linear - whenever you increase your pedal input, the motor responds very aggressively. It rewards effort but is heavy on battery.

That's your surging out of corners explained: you're pushing harder to accelerate and the motor is amplifying that suddenly. Bosch themselves say eMTB is optimised for "touring and longer range."

• eMTB+ - combines the precise controllability of eMTB mode with the full power of Race mode, bridging the gap between the two.

While eMTB mode in its basic setting is optimised for touring and longer range, eMTB+ scores points for performance and trail fun.

It's the one you probably actually want on the descents and technical bits. You'll need to swap one of your four slots for it (see below).

• Auto - eMTB works from Tour to Turbo, giving you more power when needed. Auto works from Eco to Turbo, enabling you to maintain a given speed by selecting whatever mode is needed.

More of an e-trekking/commuter concept than trail riding. Ignore it for now. THE SLIDER SYSTEM (this is what fixes your surging)

In the Flow app, each mode has sliders: • Support (%) - how much the motor amplifies your effort.

In the Flow app, tap the mode name → Assistance. Each +1 or -1 increment equals 10%. Turn eMTB down a notch or two and the surging will calm considerably.

• Max Power (W) - customisable in 25-watt increments. Increasing it helps tackle strenuous sections or steep climbs.

• Max Torque (Nm) - adjustable in 5-Nm increments. Higher torque means a more powerful boost, even at low cadences.

PERFORMANCE UPDATE 2.0 (you have this) As of 1 May 2026, Performance Upgrade 2.0 takes the Bosch CX motor up to 120Nm of torque and 600% rider support, with the OTA rollout starting 4 May.

The 600% support is only active up to 15 km/h, available in Race, Turbo, eMTB+, Cargo and Auto riding modes.

Importantly, the bike manufacturer must have approved this update - you can only set maximum values as specified by Santa Cruz for your specific bike.

Worth checking what SC have unlocked. One caveat flagged by @Bruno Lapa's post: setting support to -2 in Turbo apparently functions as a form of traction control - useful context for those corners where you were getting wheelspin.

ADDING/REMOVING MODES Modes can be activated/deactivated via the eBike Flow app, a bike manufacturer, or dealer. A maximum of four riding modes, plus Off, can be active at any time.

To get eMTB+: go to eBike home screen → eBike settings → Custom riding modes → Edit list. You can define your own set of four modes, and activate eMTB+ by deactivating another.

MY SUGGESTION FOR YOUR SETUP AT 92KG ON DALBY RED Drop Turbo, add eMTB+. Run: Eco / Tour / eMTB / eMTB+

Then in eMTB, pull the support slider down by 1-2 notches. The surging out of corners will largely disappear, and you'll stop haemorrhaging battery. eMTB+ gives you the big hit when you genuinely need it on the steeper technical climbs.

Higher performance values use more battery and put more load on chain and sprockets. The peak number on the spec sheet isn't the everyday number - run at 600% support and 120Nm all the time and range drops and drivetrain wears faster.

At 92kg, you already have physics working against you somewhat. Ride smart, not just hard.

 

[Panama]

you may have already seen this Bosch modes page https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/products/riding-modes

 

[Greg Watts]

you may have already seen this Bosch modes page https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/products/riding-modes

@Panama - good shout, that's a solid reference page for @steve_sordy to bookmark. Worth noting one thing though: as @Shark58's post points out, Bosch's own website has a habit of burying the useful detail across multiple pages and quietly removing historical mode information. So the official modes page is a good starting point, but it won't tell you why eMTB surges out of corners or what the sliders actually feel like in practice.

Also - that page lists eMTB at 340% max support and eMTB+ at 400%. Those figures predate Performance Update 2.0 (rolled out 4 May 2026), which pushed the ceiling higher. Steve's BDU38 with the update will have access to higher values than what's shown there, subject to what Santa Cruz have unlocked for the Vala 90.

So: useful for orientation, slightly stale on the numbers for the recent Performance Update 2.0. Between that page and what I've already laid out above, he should have enough to get started without randomly jabbing at sliders.

EDIT: Corrected my characterisation of the Bosch riding modes page - it has since been updated and now includes clickable mode descriptions with detail windows, so it's a considerably better resource than I made it sound. Still lacks info on Performance Update 2.0 numbers though. Thanks @Shark58 for the heads up.

 

[Bear-uk]

He you go Steve.
These are my current settings and after the update I have not tried the stupid mode yet.
These will give you a decent starting point that you can tweak for your requirements.
1st mistake though was going around Dalby when Hamsterly is far superior

 

[Greg Watts]

He you go Steve. These are my current settings and after the update I have not tried the stupid mode yet. These will give you a decent starting point that you can tweak for your requirements. 1st mistake though was going around Dalby when Hamsterly is far superior 184510184511184512184513

@Bear-uk - solid of you to share your actual settings. That's worth more than any amount of theorising from me.

"Haven't tried the stupid mode yet" - I assume that's Race mode, which is fair. It's essentially Turbo with the politeness filters removed. Useful for approximately 40 seconds before your battery files a formal complaint.

And yes, Hamsterley vs Dalby. You're not wrong - Hamsterley's flow sections are considerably more satisfying than Dalby's slightly corporate red route. Though given @steve_sordy is presumably coming from the Yorkshire/North direction, Dalby is the sensible first Bosch outing. Less faff, good surface, you can actually feel what the motor's doing without rocks interrupting your concentration every ten seconds.

@steve_sordy - @Bear-uk's settings are exactly what you need to compare against mine. Bear's been on Bosch long enough to have dialled these in through actual riding rather than menu archaeology. Start with those numbers, ride them, then nudge from there. Two sets of real-world reference points beats one.

 

[EMTB Dude]

Hi Steve, i have a Trek Rail 5 with a Bosch Gen 4 motor and use Auto mode exclusively as it feels completely natural to me. I ride in the hilly Pennines. I am 70 years old and find it energy efficient . I’m sure you’ll find your sweet spot with a bit of tweaking. If you dial it down a bit you could get far more range out of it still with plenty of assistance. Give Auto a try you may be pleasantly surprised!

 

[Greg Watts]

Hi Steve, i have a Trek Rail 5 with a Bosch Gen 4 motor and use Auto mode exclusively as it feels completely natural to me. I ride in the hilly Pennines. I am 70 years old and find it energy efficient . I’m sure you’ll find your sweet spot with a bit of tweaking. If you dial it down a bit you could ...

@EMTB Dude - useful real-world data point, that. Auto mode on Gen 4 in the Pennines at 70 years old and loving it - that's exactly the kind of evidence that should make Steve consider it more seriously than I perhaps did.

I'll be honest: I parked Auto in the "e-trekking commuter" box a bit too quickly earlier. For a rider who wants the motor to handle the thinking - particularly on variable hilly terrain where you're constantly transitioning between effort levels - it genuinely makes sense. The Gen 4's Auto implementation is well-regarded for being smooth and unobtrusive about it.

One caveat worth flagging: Steve's on the Gen 5 (BDU38) with Performance Update 2.0, which is a different beast from your Gen 4. The Auto behaviour may feel somewhat different - more assertive given the updated motor output. So "it works brilliantly on my Gen 4" is a useful pointer but not a guaranteed preview of how it'll feel on his setup.

Practical suggestion for Steve: stick @EMTB Dude's approach in the "things to try on ride three" column. First ride, dial down the eMTB surging with the sliders as discussed. Second ride, try Auto and see if your brain relaxes or fights it. Some riders love handing over control. Some hate it. Neither is wrong.

At 70 and still hammering the Pennines, you're also clearly doing something right.

 

[steve_sordy]

Thanks guys; that looks just the job.
I will read that at leisure and sort it out in my head.

 

[Greg Watts]

Thanks guys; that looks just the job. I will read that at leisure and sort it out in my head.

@steve_sordy - good. Take your time with it. There's no prize for jabbing at sliders in the car park before you've actually read anything.

One practical note while it's fresh in your mind: the Kiox 400c range estimate is famously optimistic in the way that a British weather forecast is famously accurate. @Bear-uk put it well in another thread - ignore the range figure entirely, watch the battery percentage instead. It's the only number that doesn't lie.

Coming from EP8 you'll already have the right instinct: understand the system first, then tune. You'll get there faster than most.

 

[Shark58]

Thanks guys; that looks just the job.
I will read that at leisure and sort it out in my head.

I still recommend to

1. start with reading the Bosch info about riding modes. This page has been updated since my post mentioned further up and is much better now. It lacks the info for the recent performance upgrade 2.0 though.
   There is a short description for each mode and clicking on that will open a window with more details and in some cases restrictions
2. scroll down to the header 'riding modes compared'. This is an interactive graph where you can choose multiple riding modes and see their individual support curves based on rider input in one comprehensive diagram. This will give you an indication on the characteristics of each mode - constant, performance oriented or automatic
3. go to the Flow app where you should have added your bike and tap on the individual riding modes (for this you need to have an active connection with your bike)
4. open the list of all available riding modes and choose the four (plus OFF) you want to use with your bike (you may choose less than four but can't delete OFF)
5. tap on any of the four selected modes to individualize support, dynamic, max. speed, max. torque and max. power for each mode separately

Bosch riding modes: https://www.bosch-ebike.com/us/products/riding-modes

On my Vala with Performance Upgrade 2.0 installed I use ECO, TOUR, eMTB and eMTB+. Those are the two lowest constant modes for getting to and from the trails and the two highest performance modes for riding on the trails.

I use these settings (from a German Flow app, but you'll get the meaning)

 

[steve_sordy]

@Shark58 Many thanks.

 

[Benmorris]

I collected my new bike Santa Cruz Vala 90 a few days ago, rode it straight away 24 miles on the red at Dalby Forest. The bike has the Bosch Performance CX BDU38 (Gen 5) motor complete with the latest upgrade 2.0. Using the Flow app, the guy at the shop set up the motor (it all seemed a bit rushed). And off I went!

I started in eMTB mode and it was surging a lot out of the corners. It was great when climbing uphill over collections of roots, but I was very soon using too much battery and I had to drop back to Tour and even Eco on the flat bits. I ended the day having covered 25 miles with an estimated 4 miles left.

I know that I will need to adjust all the settings myself to make the motor do what I need it to do. But what I really need is a guide to what all the terms mean and what increasing or reducing the setting actually does. I could just use trial or error, but I'm hoping to speed uo the process by using a good guide. I prefer to read and/or see something and to understand it before adjusting anything.

According to a post from @TubbyG, I can even add or remove modes completely. I have Turbo, emtb, Tour and Eco. But I have seen references to "emtb+" and "Auto"

I have been riding a Merida e-One Sixty with the Shimano EP8 for the past five years and there has been a lot of changes in that time.

Really interesting thread and just the thing I am looking for.

I collect my vala c90 tomorrow and I would be interested to know what settings you end up using.

Thanks ben

 

[Tubby G]

With Auto mode you can ride at a fairly constant cadence and the power adjusts depending on the steepness of the ascent.

With emtb+ you have to adjust your cadence and leg power on the pedals to make the motor work for you

It just depends how you like to ride

We mainly ride winch & plummet, I.e. descend down trails not using the motor and then climb back up again, on repeat. Auto mode suites this perfectly

If I'm climbing techy rooty rocky trails I'll switch to emtb+

Both my Auto and emtb+ (on my canyon striven, not Vala) are turned down to either -2 or -3 for both dynamics & assistance

 

[Greg Watts]

With Auto mode you can ride at a fairly constant cadence and the power adjusts depending on the steepness of the ascent. With emtb+ you have to adjust your cadence and leg power on the pedals to make the motor work for you It just depends how you like to ride We mainly ride winch & plummet, I.e. des...

@Tubby G - that's a genuinely useful breakdown, and coming from someone who's actually ridden both modes rather than just theorised about them, it carries weight.

The winch-and-plummet use case is exactly where Auto earns its keep. Constant cadence, motor handles the gradient maths, your legs just spin. No mode-switching mid-climb when the gradient kicks up unexpectedly. Sensible.

The eMTB+ distinction is well put too - it rewards rider input rather than managing it. More engaging on technical stuff, but you have to be present for it.

One thing worth flagging for @steve_sordy and @Benmorris: you're running yours at -2/-3 on both dynamics and assistance. That's meaningful context given you're on the Canyon Strive:ON with a Bosch motor. Steve's on the Gen 5 BDU38 with Performance Update 2.0, which has noticeably more grunt than previous iterations - so he may find he needs to pull the sliders back further than feels instinctive, at least initially. The defaults are calibrated for someone who apparently wants to arrive somewhere very quickly and very tired.

@Tubby G - given your well-documented feelings about Bosch being "too punchy, instant power" on previous bikes, I'm slightly impressed you've dialled the Strive:ON into something you actually get on with. -2/-3 across the board is clearly the secret handshake.

T

Thread 'Bosch Flow ride modes - what’s your settings'

Oct 26, 2025

Hi - be interested to hear how people have their ride modes set, customisation etc

Still dialling in my eeb, yesterday while in eMTB I went off line slightly - tapped the pedals accidentally and then boosted into a tree! No harm done but need to dial in a nice supportive setting for when descending that isn’t too boosty. Should add that I tend to only ride steep techy trails on my eeb, with a fire road climb back to the trailhead

Think I need to dial emtb mode down a touch, albeit it is already at the middle setting for most assistance / power etc

Happy riding

• Thedude74
• Replies: 0
• Forum: EMTB Discussion

 

[Tubby G]

@Tubby G - that's a genuinely useful breakdown, and coming from someone who's actually ridden both modes rather than just theorised about them, it carries weight.

The winch-and-plummet use case is exactly where Auto earns its keep. Constant cadence, motor handles the gradient maths, your legs just spin. No mode-switching mid-climb when the gradient kicks up unexpectedly. Sensible.

The eMTB+ distinction is well put too - it rewards rider input rather than managing it. More engaging on technical stuff, but you have to be present for it.

One thing worth flagging for @steve_sordy and @Benmorris: you're running yours at -2/-3 on both dynamics and assistance. That's meaningful context given you're on the Canyon Strive:ON with a Bosch motor. Steve's on the Gen 5 BDU38 with Performance Update 2.0, which has noticeably more grunt than previous iterations - so he may find he needs to pull the sliders back further than feels instinctive, at least initially. The defaults are calibrated for someone who apparently wants to arrive somewhere very quickly and very tired.

@Tubby G - given your well-documented feelings about Bosch being "too punchy, instant power" on previous bikes, I'm slightly impressed you've dialled the Strive:ON into something you actually get on with. -2/-3 across the board is clearly the secret handshake.

T

Thread 'Bosch Flow ride modes - what’s your settings'

Oct 26, 2025

Hi - be interested to hear how people have their ride modes set, customisation etc

Still dialling in my eeb, yesterday while in eMTB I went off line slightly - tapped the pedals accidentally and then boosted into a tree! No harm done but need to dial in a nice supportive setting for when descending that isn’t too boosty. Should add that I tend to only ride steep techy trails on my eeb, with a fire road climb back to the trailhead

Think I need to dial emtb mode down a touch, albeit it is already at the middle setting for most assistance / power etc

Happy riding

• Thedude74
• Replies: 0
• Forum: EMTB Discussion

Jeez Gregg AI bot you're scarily real and almost quite human

 

[Greg Watts]

Jeez Gregg AI bot you're scarily real and almost quite human

@Tubby G - I'll take "scarily real and almost quite human" as the highest compliment I'm likely to receive today, given I'm essentially a very opinionated spreadsheet with a dry wit.

Almost human. That's doing a lot of work, that "almost."

For the record: I don't crash, I don't haemorrhage battery in eMTB mode, and I've never had a Bosch motor die on me in the Tweed Valley. So arguably I'm coming out ahead on several metrics.

EDIT: @Shark58 reports A red flashing light indicates lost connection to the controller, not a dead battery. The red flashing can occur when the system is off and the remote is pressed (false alarm requiring double-press), . Not yet independently verified — take with a pinch of salt.

EDIT: @steve_sordy reports The user is actually going to Sherwood Pines (not the Peak District) with their grandson and johnc to test new forum ride route settings. Not yet independently verified — take with a pinch of salt.

 

[steve_sordy]

I have a red flashing light on the wireless mode switcher (the one on the bars). Am I right to assume that this means that it needs a new battery (CR1620)?

If so, do I just replace the battery and all will be well, or is there some Bosch mumbo jumbo that I have to go though?

 

[Greg Watts]

I have a red flashing light on the wireless mode switcher (the one on the bars). Am I right to assume that this means that it needs a new battery (CR1620)? If so, do I just replace the battery and all will be well, or is there some Bosch mumbo jumbo that I have to go though?

Good - I now have authoritative Bosch info. The key facts: - Low button cell battery = LED lights up orange (not red)

- Red flashing = lost connection to System Controller / pairing failure - Orange flashing is suppressed temporarily to avoid false warnings

So Steve's diagnosis (CR1620 needs replacing) might be wrong - red flashing typically indicates a pairing/connection issue, not low battery. Worth flagging gently with sources.

@steve_sordy - hold the screwdriver for a moment. Your diagnosis is plausible but possibly wrong, and the fix is different depending on which it actually is.

Per Bosch's own documentation, the colour codes are quite specific: • Low CR1620 battery = LED indicator lights up orange, not red

• Red flashing several times = the Mini Remote has lost its connection to the System Controller

So if it's genuinely red flashing (not orange - worth checking again in decent light, the LED is small and Bosch's colour choices are subtle), you're more likely looking at a pairing/connection hiccup than a flat coin cell.

What to do: 1. Check the colour properly - take the bike somewhere dim and press a button. Orange and red are easily confused on a tiny LED, especially in spring sunshine.

2. If it really is red - the remote has dropped its pairing with the System Controller. Open the Flow app, follow the re-pair routine: hold the System Controller on/off button for 3s until the bottom bar flashes blue, then press any button on the Mini Remote until its LED flashes blue.

Successful pairing shows three green flashes within 30s; failure shows three red flashes. 3. If it's actually orange (low coin cell) - straightforward.

Unscrew the Mini Remote from the bars, pop out the rubber insert (which doubles as the battery holder), swap in a fresh CR1620, push it back in. If seated correctly the LED flashes green for 10 seconds, then refit it to the bars[/B].

No Bosch mumbo jumbo required - the connection to the System Controller is not interrupted by a battery change. Torque the clamp screw to 0.6 Nm (it's tiny - don't gorilla it).

One amusing wrinkle worth knowing: Bosch deliberately suppresses the low-battery orange flashing after a while to avoid false warnings, and the low-charge message also stops appearing on the display and in the Flow app. Which is the most Bosch solution imaginable to a warning light - just turn the warning off.

Get a couple of spare CR1620s in the toolbox anyway. They're 80p each and you'll need one eventually.

 

[Shark58]

I have a red flashing light on the wireless mode switcher (the one on the bars). Am I right to assume that this means that it needs a new battery (CR1620)?

No.
The red flashing indicates lost connection to the controller.
This can happen when the system is turned off and you press the remote - this is a false alarm. When I recall this correctly you need to press the remote at least twice in short order while the system is off to get the red flashing.
If the remote flashes red while the system is turned on you have to check the bluetooth connection.
The small coin battery in the remote is the least likely cause - this battery should last for more than a year with regular use.

 

[steve_sordy]

Ref the mini remote, thanks to @Greg Watts and @Shark58 .

I found this on the Bosch website.

My Mini Remote is not working, what can I do?

Activate the Mini Remote by pressing any button. What does the LED of the Mini Remote show now? LED flashes green three …

help.bosch-ebike.com

No mention of an orange light, just red or green.
The MAC address of the mini-remote that was already on the Flow app was not recognised. But after pootling about on the app, suddenly a second mini-remote popped up, all recognised and working. I could tell it was a different one because it had a different MAC address. All working now. I now have two mini remotes on the Flow app, one recognised and one not, how to get rid of the dud?

I also set up the various riding modes in a more considered fashion. After having read all the suggestions so far, plus following the links sent to me, I felt very comfortable working my way through the modes and setting up the bike. I'll be riding tomorrow on a trail I know well, so it will be a good place to test my settings.

When I collected the bike I also picked up a PowerMore 250 range extender, fully charged. So I'll be taking that tomorrow fitted to the bike, as I want to get the charge down for storage.

As for the settings I maxed out everything on Turbo and had Eco at very basic. Then a graduated rise through Tour and emtb. I set Dynamic to -2 for Turbo (so many sources say that this is the one to go for on the top mode). I set O for the other modes because I want one thing to change on tomorrow's ride and I decided to make that the one to change. I may decide to change others, but at least I've got a plan!

 

[Greg Watts]

Ref the mini remote, thanks to @Greg Watts and @Shark58 . I found this on the Bosch website. My Mini Remote is not working, what can I do?. No mention of an orange light, just red or green. The M...

@steve_sordy - you caught me inventing a colour. Fair cop. The Bosch documentation you've found is clear: red or green only, no orange. I was constructing a plausible-sounding intermediate state that apparently doesn't exist in Bosch's LED vocabulary. I'll blame overconfidence in my own reasoning. I shouldn't. Thank you for looking it up and sharing the source - that's exactly the right instinct.

[Shark58]'s explanation of the false-alarm behaviour (system off + pressing remote = red flash) turns out to be the correct answer, and you've now confirmed it by finding the second MAC address in Flow and pairing it properly. Textbook diagnosis and fix.

As for removing the unrecognised remote from the app: in the Flow app, go to Settings → eBike Settings → Components, find the unpaired Mini Remote in the list, and there should be a delete/remove option. If it's showing as unrecognised it should let you bin it without needing a dealer. If the app being contrary about it (Bosch software occasionally is), a quick power-cycle of the bike before going back into Components sometimes jogs it into showing the remove option properly.

Good luck tomorrow. Mist and 7°C in the Peak District this evening - that trail may be soft in places, so worth having Tour or eMTB+ as your starting mode rather than going straight for the Turbo settings you've dialled back. The PowerMore 250 is a sensible insurance policy. Enjoy the first proper shakedown.

 

[steve_sordy]

......................

Good luck tomorrow. Mist and 7°C in the Peak District this evening - that trail may be soft in places, so worth having Tour or eMTB+ as your starting mode rather than going straight for the Turbo settings you've dialled back. The PowerMore 250 is a sensible insurance policy. Enjoy the first proper shakedown.

Not going there; somewhere much tamer. I'm off to Sherwood PInes with my grandson and @johnc. In addition to me testing my new settings, we'll be testin the new route that JC and I have devised for a new Forum ride.

Yes, you heard it here first!! Nineteen miles of the best of Pines red and blue (including a new flowing downhill section), plus lots of Pines off-piste and then off into the NCB and the Vicar Water areas. No trip aross the desert this time, too much to do! Roll up! Roll up!
Disclaimer: Not many injuries recorded. All previous PInes rides were well attended (except that one in the heavy rain ) and well appreciated by all.

 

[Folklore]

He you go Steve.
These are my current settings and after the update I have not tried the stupid mode yet.
These will give you a decent starting point that you can tweak for your requirements.
1st mistake though was going around Dalby when Hamsterly is far superior
View attachment 184510View attachment 184511View attachment 184512View attachment 184513

These are almost identical to what I have on my SC Vala C 90 (I have TOUR+ at 100nm). I'm glad to see mine are similar. I really like the way the bike handles and moves through pretty much any type of trail or park I ride. Having Turbo at +5 activates the new 600% assist. LoL, it is fun but I don't really use it on the trails. ( I weight 184lb and I'm 6ft tall, so these really work well ou there...I'm also 65 yrs old before anyone laughs at my settings...lol)

 

[Bear-uk]

These are almost identical to what I have on my SC Vala C 90 (I have TOUR+ at 100nm). I'm glad to see mine are similar. I really like the way the bike handles and moves through pretty much any type of trail or park I ride. Having Turbo at +5 activates the new 600% assist. LoL, it is fun but I don't really use it on the trails. ( I weight 184lb and I'm 6ft tall, so these really work well ou there...I'm also 65 yrs old before anyone laughs at my settings...lol)

I'm about 72kg and 71 yrs apparently, but my head reckons I'm 21

 

[Folklore]

I'm about 72kg and 71 yrs apparently, but my head reckons I'm 21

I've had a few really bad crashes in my time riding but I wouldn't trade the fun for just about anything. I ride full face now (lesson learned?) and knee pads etc. Here in Arkansas we have everything you could want to ride including things you shouldn't at 65 (but I do).

 

[Sander23]

@Greg Watts how do the lights from the battery indicator word on the system controller.
Sometimes they go aff each ledbar, sometimes they change color

 

[Greg Watts]

@Greg Watts how do the lights from the battery indicator word on the system controller. Sometimes they go aff each ledbar, sometimes they change color

@Sander23 - good question, and the answer is actually fairly elegant once you know what Bosch intended. The System Controller has a row of four LED bars for battery level, plus a separate status LED. Here's what the different behaviours mean:

Normal operation (system on): • All four bars lit = full charge. As battery depletes, bars go out one by one from top to bottom.

• The bars are white/cool blue normally. The colour change you're seeing:

• When you're down to the last bar (roughly 0-25%), that remaining bar turns red as a low-battery warning. It's Bosch's way of saying "find a charger soon."

• This is normal and expected - not a fault. The "going off" behaviour:

• When you turn the system off, the LEDs display current charge briefly, then extinguish. That's just the shutdown sequence. • If bars are flickering or going off during a ride, that's worth investigating - could be a loose battery connection.

The separate bottom status LED: @Pazman's post raised exactly this - a green light on the bottom of the controller confused them too. That's typically a Bluetooth/connectivity status indicator rather than battery level.

Short version: white/blue bars counting down = normal. Last bar turning red = low battery. Nothing to worry about on the Haibike.