Advice please. Bike is 2022 E160 RSX. I have a minor problem with the dropper post. When slammed if I then operate the lever to raise the post it releases the post but I have wait a couple of seconds for it to lock in place. I tried removing the post and despite removing the battery and feeding more cable into the top tube grommet I cannot pull the dropper clear of the seat stem. Is there a cable fixing where the dropper cable passes over the motor? If so is that accessible by removing the non drive side crank and then the motor cover?
Whyte Dropper Post Removal
- Thread starter Mikerb
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- #2
Well I have tried everything short of removing the dropper. Since the dropper operates smoothly both up and down I do not believe it is a cable issue. I have also now noticed that when slamming the post there is a "squish" type noise in the last 50 mm of travel so I have come to the conclusion it is more likely a cartridge issue. Luckily I have been able to buy a brand new replacement dropper...same as the existing complete with cable......in the Merlin sale for half price, so I intend to just replace the post. My existing remote lever is of course compatible and I have fully serviced it.
So my question now is whether it is possible to somehow join the new cable to the old and pull it through the internal routing. Anyone changed a dropper on this bike??
So my question now is whether it is possible to somehow join the new cable to the old and pull it through the internal routing. Anyone changed a dropper on this bike??
I replaced the dropper cable , external and internal on my E160 RSMX 2023, without dropping the motor , it is a pig of a job, but there is just about enough space to do so with a bit of perseverance , it a tight turn from the frame to the seat post , my original cable was badly kinked and causing a problem with the dropper actuation , I attached the new external to the old with a barb and pulled through , the routing is a pain in the ass, best would be to drop the motor really, or even better replace with a wireless
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OK thanks. Did you need to remove the non drive side crank and motor cover ? Does that even give any visibility of the cable as it passes over the motor?I replaced the dropper cable , external and internal on my E160 RSMX 2023, without dropping the motor , it is a pig of a job, but there is just about enough space to do so with a bit of perseverance , it a tight turn from the frame to the seat post , my original cable was badly kinked and causing a problem with the dropper actuation , I attached the new external to the old with a barb and pulled through , the routing is a pain in the ass, best would be to drop the motor really, or even better replace with a wireless
Giff
Active member
I have done it on the same bike. I used a barb and put grease on the cable and was very gentle and wiggled it through.
No breathing during the process but it worked.
…..but I have just installed a new version of the AXS and they are brilliant and just work….no fuss!
No breathing during the process but it worked.
…..but I have just installed a new version of the AXS and they are brilliant and just work….no fuss!
Ark
Active member
under the seat is valve to pump up the cartridge like you do on suspension. ( I never had to pump mine yet, but I think I need to now 2 years later, sometimes it falls about an inch when I sit on it.
assuming its the same dropper as in the White e-160S from 2022 which more than likely is.
I needed to adjust mine from the shop cos it wasn;t high enough.
It was a proper solid job, I had to remove the battery and feed the dropper cable in to the front of the frame as much as possible.
Then when I pulled the dropper/seatpost out I found the dropper cable wound around inside the seat tube twice like a stretching coil.
It was super hard to pull the dropper post out I had to use a lot of force.
Then the cable detached and fell into the frame... cue me trying to fish it out for about 20 minutes, because of the coil it was super hard to try and tug back out.
It's like when they fitted the dropped they inserted it into the frame and then spun the seat around a few times.
It's impossible to straighten the cable as well.
On mine the little pin on the end of the dropper that activates it sometimes get's stuck if I haven't used the bike for a few months, and I have to take the dropper out and whack the pin with a rubber mallet.
Maybe your cable is pinned by the motor though, only he battery seemed to pin mine.
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- #7
I think mine is a sealed cartridge and it still works fine provided I give it about a second or 2 after operating the lever before siting on the saddle. Weird thing is I did a ride on one of the hottest days we have had and it all worked great! Makes me think a wireless dropper is worth the cost.
Ark
Active member
yea they expensive as hell, but no more fiddling with wires seems worth it.
Shortly after I purchased the Trek Rail I changed to the AXS Reverb dropper. There were a couple of reasons for changing.
Removing the original cable operated dropper for service was an event. The motor compartment looked like a rats-nest of wires, hoses and cables. The sharp bends in the cable housing caused poor dropper action. The dropper housing may have pinched the rear brake line causing issues there.
I intend on adding/installing an AXS reverb dropper to my Fuel EXE also. But they are expensive. I don’t mind charging the battery occasionally and the paddle controller is simple and fast. There is a small weight penalty to the Reverb dropper but I balanced that by adding carbon cranks…which were friggen expensive too.
Cleans up the cockpit also
leaving more room for a chicken 
horn 
