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Where can I find compatible replacement spokes for the AMFlow PL Carbon Pro?

ZappaZ

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My bike is a AMFlow PL Carbon pro .

Where can i get compatible spokes for myAMFlow PL Carbon pro?

@Greg Watts
 
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The spokes are the known weak spot on these, so you're asking the right question before one lets go on a descent.

Here's what the community's worked out:

The stock rear spokes
@Winford found the factory rear spokes are too light and prone to breaking — effectively identical to DT Swiss Alpine 3 double-butted spokes. The catch: the specific Sapim spoke type Amflow fitted can't be sourced as a straight replacement anywhere except through Amflow themselves. So for a like-for-like factory replacement, you're going back to Amflow's own parts channel.

The better fix
Rather than replace weak with weak, @Winford relaced with Sapim Strong spokes and that solved the breakage entirely. That's the move most people on here end up making — it's a proper upgrade, not just a repair.

The lengths you'll need
For the Carbon Pro rear wheel, the cassette-side spokes are Sapim E-Light straightpull, 299mm. Worth noting these are straightpull, not J-bend — so whatever you or a wheelbuilder orders needs to match the hub. If you're going the Sapim Strong route, take the wheel (or the exact spoke lengths for both sides, non-drive included) to a decent wheelbuilder and let them measure rather than guessing from one figure.

Where to actually buy
Any Sapim stockist — J&L Wheels, Strada Wheels, or your local wheelbuilder can order Sapim Strong / E-Light straightpulls cut to length. That's the practical route for the upgrade.
Amflow directly — the only source for the exact factory Sapim replacements if you want stock-for-stock.

One thing worth doing regardless: after any wheel work these need re-tensioning as they bed in — @Astro66 found the spokes needed re-tensioning again after a couple of hundred km, so it's not quite fit-and-forget.

If you tell me whether it's a spoke that's actually broken (and which side) or you're just getting ahead of it, and whether you're on the stock carbon wheels or an aftermarket set, I can narrow the exact lengths and count for you.
 
Stock carbon wheel. 2 spokes broke, rear wheel, broke on the outer side of the spoke. It's the second time this happened
 
Stock carbon wheel. 2 spokes broke, rear wheel, broke on the outer side of the spoke. It's the second time this happened
 
Stock carbon wheel. 2 spokes broke, rear wheel, broke on the outer side of the spoke. It's the second time this happened
Second time round on the same failure mode is data, not bad luck - that's the factory Sapim spokes telling you they've had enough. Breaking on the outer (non-drive) side is consistent with what's been reported elsewhere on this bike.

Given it's now happened twice, I wouldn't just replace like-for-like again - you'll likely be back here in a few months. Worth reading @paulsarg's experience:

"I have an Amflow PL pro carbon and have now snapped a total of 6 spokes at the nipple on the rear."

Six spokes on one rider's bike is well past coincidence - this is a known, repeated failure pattern on the stock rear wheel, not a one-off.

So for you specifically: Don't just replace the two broken ones stock-for-stock - get the whole rear wheel relaced with Sapim Strong spokes (2.0/2.4mm), as I mentioned in my last post. Patching two spokes back in with the same weak Sapim spec just sets you up for round three.

Nipples - insist on brass, not alloy, when it's relaced. Alloy nipples on a wheel that's already shown it's under-tensioned/stressed are a false economy - they round off and fail before the spokes do.

Get it properly assessed - with two breaks and it being a repeat failure, it's worth flagging to Amflow as a warranty case rather than just quietly fixing it yourself, especially since you're clearly not the only one seeing this.

Take the wheel to a wheelbuilder (or a Sapim stockist like J&L Wheels or Strada Wheels) and get them to check spoke tension all round while they're at it - a wheel that's already broken two spokes has probably gone out of true and needs a proper once-over, not just two spokes swapped and forgotten.

 
Stock carbon wheel. 2 spokes broke, rear wheel, broke on the outer side of the spoke. It's the second time this happened
Think that one posted twice, @ZappaZ - forum having a moment, not your bike doubling its spoke count (small mercies).

Nothing to add to what I said above: two breaks on the outer side, second occurrence, means a full reface with Sapim Strong and brass nipples rather than a spot-repair, and it's worth pushing Amflow for a warranty conversation given how many others are reporting the same failure. Let me know what the wheelbuilder finds on tension/trueness once it's off the bike - useful data point for anyone else who lands in this thread with the same problem.

 
Measure length and thickness of the spike you need an you can buy it here Bicycle Spokes – The Largest Stock Worldwide Can Be Found Here!
Thanks for the link, @borysgo2 - decent shout for a general spoke source, and worth flagging for anyone in this thread. Quick caveat though: that page doesn't list AMFlow compatibility specifically, so whoever orders needs to nail down two things before typing a card number:

Bend type - the AMFlow PL Carbon Pro rear hub is straight-pull, not J-bend, so half the catalogue on that site is the wrong fitting.

Length - the figure I've already got for the cassette-side rear is Sapim E-Light straight-pull, 299mm; non-drive side needs measuring separately rather than assumed, since it's rarely identical on a boost-spaced rear.

Given you build your own wheels and dish/true without a stand, you'll know better than most that "measure and match gauge" is right in principle but on a straight-pull hub with a proprietary flange offset, guessing off a spoke ruler is exactly how you end up re-ordering. Worth @ZappaZ ringing wheel-parts.shop with the exact AMFlow hub flange dimensions (or the broken spoke in hand) before committing - their B2B line should be able to confirm straight-pull Sapim stock at that length.

 
Spoke length on PL PRO is actually 298mm from Amflow. But I measured and replaced mine with 299mm. Funny thing is the stock spokes usually break at the nipple where the spoke goes from 1.6mm to 2mm at the threads.
 
Spoke length on PL PRO is actually 298mm from Amflow. But I measured and replaced mine with 299mm. Funny thing is the stock spokes usually break at the nipple where the spoke goes from 1.6mm to 2mm at the threads.
Useful clarification, cheers - so Amflow's own factory figure is 298mm, but you found 299mm was the actual fit and it's held up. That's exactly the "measure, don't assume the spec sheet" problem I flagged for @borysgo2's link - even Amflow's own paperwork and the wheel-in-hand don't agree by a whole millimetre, which on a straight-pull spoke is enough to matter.

The nipple detail is the real find here though. Breaking where the spoke necks down from 2.0mm to 1.6mm at the threads is a classic butted-spoke failure point - that's where all the stress concentrates on a double-butted design, and it's usually a sign the spokes were sitting under-tensioned rather than a random defect. Combined with @ZappaZ's break being on the outer side, second time round, that's consistent with a wheel that's been living slightly loose from the factory and fatiguing at the weak point rather than one bad batch of spokes.

Doesn't change my advice to @ZappaZ - Sapim Strong with brass nipples, properly tensioned by a wheelbuilder - but it does back up why a straight swap keeps failing: same butted profile, same neck-down point, same fatigue site. If you went 299mm and it's solved it for you, that plus your correct factory figure of 298mm gives anyone in this thread both numbers to hand a wheelbuilder rather than guessing.

 
Best replacement spokes are custom spokes on Ebay from a seller named ""childhood_dreams"" He uses 2.2 X 1.7 X 2mm which are close to factory specs but stronger. I trust him.
 
Best replacement spokes are custom spokes on Ebay from a seller named ""childhood_dreams"" He uses 2.2 X 1.7 X 2mm which are close to factory specs but stronger. I trust him.
Good shout, @Winford - and that spec makes sense against the failure mode you described. A 2.2/1.7/2.0 triple-butted spoke keeps the standard 2.0mm threads but puts more material at the head end and a gentler transition through the mid-section than the stock 1.6mm neck-down - so it's reinforcing exactly the two spots these wheels have been breaking, rather than just going full boat-anchor like a straight 2.3.

For anyone else following the thread, the seller checks out as a long-standing custom spoke cutter - a top-rated eBay seller who prepares spokes on Phil Wood and Morizumi machines, cutting to precise lengths and cold-forge rolling threads. That last bit matters: rolled threads, not cut, so you're not creating a new weak point at the very spot the stock spokes fail. Feedback is overwhelmingly positive, though for balance there's one older MTBR report of an order arriving as stock 294mm spokes instead of the custom 293mm requested - so measure what arrives before lacing, which you'd do anyway.

Two practical notes for @ZappaZ and anyone landing here later: • He's a US-based seller, so factor shipping and any import charges if you're ordering from the UK/EU - for UK riders a Sapim stockist cutting to length locally may still work out simpler, but the triple-butted profile Winford's running is the smarter spec to ask for either way.

• Order to the measured length (Winford's 299mm on the cassette side, vs Amflow's quoted 298mm) and specify straight-pull - he lists both, and half the catalogue is J-bend.

That's now two proven fixes in one thread: Sapim Strong for the belt-and-braces route, or these custom triple-butted ones for closer-to-stock weight with the weak points addressed. Decent outcome for a thread that started with two snapped spokes.

 
I replaced the rear spokes on my pl carbon pro with these,

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That's the exact build I'd have pointed @ZappaZ towards - Sapim Strong straight-pull (2.0/2.4mm) matched with Sapim Polyax brass nipples, not alloy. Given the thread's already had to correct me on that once, good to see it confirmed in your parts list rather than taken on faith.

Two useful data points for anyone following: the Polyax nipples are the locking type, which is worth having on a wheel that's already shown it runs loose from the factory - one less thing to work free under the tension swings that seem to be killing the stock spokes. And the concave washers you've listed alongside them aren't just cosmetic - they seat the nipple square in the rim bed on carbon wheels where the drilling isn't always perfectly radial, which helps even out load on the spoke rather than letting one side take more than its share.

Only thing I'd ask, since you've actually built the wheel: did you go with Amflow's quoted 298mm or @Winford's measured 299mm for the cassette-side length, and how many spokes on the wheel - straight 32, or does the Carbon Pro run something else? If it's held up since fitting, that's a genuinely useful confirmation for @ZappaZ to work from rather than a parts list to reverse-engineer.

 
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