What gizmo to help my Fox 38

[cj3waker]

I have a Husqvarna HC5 that came with a 29 fox factory 38 e tuned grip 2 with 180mm of travel. It's the nicest fork I've ever owned, and it kinda sucks.

I'm 175lbs, I've tried all sorts of configs and I've ended up at 90psi (which is too little) and no tokens with HSC and LSC almost all the way open and it is the best overall configuration I've found. It still makes my hands go numb 10 mins into rocks or stuff with lots of small bumps, and will blow through the whole fork if I go nose down off something biggish. I can't go lighter, and going heavier or adding tokens makes it feel like a rigid fork on the small stuff.

I've sent it back to fox (they said nothing is wrong with it) and tried resetting my axle and air and played with a ton of tokens, settings, and psi. At this point I think I'm ready to throw money at it. I want what everyone wants, which is a super supple fork that still handles big stuff well and won't bottom out on 5 foot drops. But to be more specific, I'd like to be able to run it at factory settings where it handled everything except small bumps well, but add small bump suppleness at the top of stroke.

So far I'm considering the Noken, fluid focus' damper kit, luftkappe, DSD runt and maybe even the secus, I'm also open to other suggestions. So I'm just looking for any input from anyone that has been in a similar situation and was able to make it a bit better. Also, has anyone ever combined some of these options? I don't plan on doing this but theoretically you could put in a Noken, buy the custom damper parts, add a luftkappe to the piston and add a secus. I'm sure that would make for a terrible fork where all the components fight each other, but is there a known combination that works well?

Thanks

 

[keenxxx]

I have a Husqvarna HC5 that came with a 29 fox factory 38 e tuned grip 2 with 180mm of travel. It's the nicest fork I've ever owned, and it kinda sucks.

I'm 175lbs, I've tried all sorts of configs and I've ended up at 90psi (which is too little) and no tokens with HSC and LSC almost all the way open and it is the best overall configuration I've found. It still makes my hands go numb 10 mins into rocks or stuff with lots of small bumps, and will blow through the whole fork if I go nose down off something biggish. I can't go lighter, and going heavier or adding tokens makes it feel like a rigid fork on the small stuff.

I've sent it back to fox (they said nothing is wrong with it) and tried resetting my axle and air and played with a ton of tokens, settings, and psi. At this point I think I'm ready to throw money at it. I want what everyone wants, which is a super supple fork that still handles big stuff well and won't bottom out on 5 foot drops. But to be more specific, I'd like to be able to run it at factory settings where it handled everything except small bumps well, but add small bump suppleness at the top of stroke.

So far I'm considering the Noken, fluid focus' damper kit, luftkappe, DSD runt and maybe even the secus, I'm also open to other suggestions. So I'm just looking for any input from anyone that has been in a similar situation and was able to make it a bit better. Also, has anyone ever combined some of these options? I don't plan on doing this but theoretically you could put in a Noken, buy the custom damper parts, add a luftkappe to the piston and add a secus. I'm sure that would make for a terrible fork where all the components fight each other, but is there a known combination that works well?

Thanks

The biggest improvement by far on my Fox 36 was going to a coil. I tried a Secus, Runt, custom tune all with meh results. Vorsprung makes a kit for the 38.

 

[RustyIron]

So far I'm considering the Noken, fluid focus' damper kit, luftkappe, DSD runt and maybe even the secus, I'm also open to other suggestions.

Call Fluid Focus and talk to either Ryan or Johnny. These boys know their šħįť, but they still take the time to talk to regular jamokes like you and me. My recommendation is to do whatever they suggest. It won't be cheap, but it will be good.

 

[Highland Wheels]

Luftkappe and a full service made a huge difference to my 38s on my old Eeb, Will be doing the same to the ones on my acoustic along with a damper upgrade as well of some sort this time round

 

[Svarun]

Best permanent solution is the Smashpot coil kit.

 

[Ou812]

Smashpot would be your best bet, other than that sell it and get a different fork. I hated the 38 on my bike, not really been a fan of any Fox suspension products though.

 

[Wilonrs]

I had one 38 that was rough. I found out that leaning over it made it lock at some point of travel - around 60%. Without mass applied via handlebar it worked normal. It happend to be bushings. Replaced them and fork works as it supposed. Second thing: try 1-2 tokens. I'm same weight as you. I've done alot testing and it works best at 1 or 2 tokens. Right now I'm riding 94 psi 2 tokens, LSC 5 from open, HSC 2 from open (first click count as 1). I also ride pretty fast rebound and low tire pressure (dh casing and cushcore ). With higher tire pressure I need to slower rebound.

 

[TheBob]

To me it sounds like the fork is binding up and not moving as it should. I've experienced this on a 36 in the past and have had it fixed under warranty. If I were you, I'd speak to a suspension that can side the bushings and make sure the fork stanchions etc are properly aligned. Once it is confirmed the bushings need resizing or a new CSU is needed (worst case scenario and then Fox should come to the party with warranty) you can re-evaluate if the fork works for you. I'd also have them service the air spring and make sure it is not choked with grease.

 

[Snoggin]

MRP damper, smashpot. I have both in my 38. nice

 

[BikeBert]

Avalanche open bath cartridge
+ Smashpot coil conversion
+ SKF dual compound seals
+ 330 ml of oil
= Ultimate suspension setup

AVALANCHE vs. FOX Grip2

 

[Onetime]

I have a Husqvarna HC5 that came with a 29 fox factory 38 e tuned grip 2 with 180mm of travel. It's the nicest fork I've ever owned, and it kinda sucks.

I'm 175lbs, I've tried all sorts of configs and I've ended up at 90psi (which is too little) and no tokens with HSC and LSC almost all the way open and it is the best overall configuration I've found. It still makes my hands go numb 10 mins into rocks or stuff with lots of small bumps, and will blow through the whole fork if I go nose down off something biggish. I can't go lighter, and going heavier or adding tokens makes it feel like a rigid fork on the small stuff.

I've sent it back to fox (they said nothing is wrong with it) and tried resetting my axle and air and played with a ton of tokens, settings, and psi. At this point I think I'm ready to throw money at it. I want what everyone wants, which is a super supple fork that still handles big stuff well and won't bottom out on 5 foot drops. But to be more specific, I'd like to be able to run it at factory settings where it handled everything except small bumps well, but add small bump suppleness at the top of stroke.

So far I'm considering the Noken, fluid focus' damper kit, luftkappe, DSD runt and maybe even the secus, I'm also open to other suggestions. So I'm just looking for any input from anyone that has been in a similar situation and was able to make it a bit better. Also, has anyone ever combined some of these options? I don't plan on doing this but theoretically you could put in a Noken, buy the custom damper parts, add a luftkappe to the piston and add a secus. I'm sure that would make for a terrible fork where all the components fight each other, but is there a known combination that works well?

Thanks

Get an MRP V2 Lift damper and a Noken air cap. You will be happy.

 

[darwink1]

Sounds like you need a Zeb with a runt in it. Everyone always says my fork rides like butter lol.

D

 

[Rhitter]

I put an MRP damper in mine. That fixed it for me.

The 38 handled big hits very well, but I felt like I was getting buzzed to death on anything else.

MRP damper added more ability to deal with that.

 

[Downhillr]

I have a Husqvarna HC5 that came with a 29 fox factory 38 e tuned grip 2 with 180mm of travel. It's the nicest fork I've ever owned, and it kinda sucks.

I'm 175lbs, I've tried all sorts of configs and I've ended up at 90psi (which is too little) and no tokens with HSC and LSC almost all the way open and it is the best overall configuration I've found. It still makes my hands go numb 10 mins into rocks or stuff with lots of small bumps, and will blow through the whole fork if I go nose down off something biggish. I can't go lighter, and going heavier or adding tokens makes it feel like a rigid fork on the small stuff.

I've sent it back to fox (they said nothing is wrong with it) and tried resetting my axle and air and played with a ton of tokens, settings, and psi. At this point I think I'm ready to throw money at it. I want what everyone wants, which is a super supple fork that still handles big stuff well and won't bottom out on 5 foot drops. But to be more specific, I'd like to be able to run it at factory settings where it handled everything except small bumps well, but add small bump suppleness at the top of stroke.

So far I'm considering the Noken, fluid focus' damper kit, luftkappe, DSD runt and maybe even the secus, I'm also open to other suggestions. So I'm just looking for any input from anyone that has been in a similar situation and was able to make it a bit better. Also, has anyone ever combined some of these options? I don't plan on doing this but theoretically you could put in a Noken, buy the custom damper parts, add a luftkappe to the piston and add a secus. I'm sure that would make for a terrible fork where all the components fight each other, but is there a known combination that works well?

Thanks

Sounds too simple but Fox tends to pack too much grease in air spring from the factory, clogging ports and resulting in harsh initial travel. I’d just have a reliable, experienced rebuilder go through your fork before moving on to expensive fixes.

 

[cj3waker]

Well, everyone likes everything....

I suppose I ought to go through the fork first. I thought sending it back to FOX might do that for me. With no air in the fork and the upper open to atmosphere it's still very difficult to pull or extend the forward, it feels like it builds a vacuum and will "rebound" back to fully closed, is that normal?

That's a terrible explanation, maybe I'll take a video

 

[Downhillr]

Well, everyone likes everything....

I suppose I ought to go through the fork first. I thought sending it back to FOX might do that for me. With no air in the fork and the upper open to atmosphere it's still very difficult to pull or extend the forward, it feels like it builds a vacuum and will "rebound" back to fully closed, is that normal?

That's a terrible explanation, maybe I'll take a video

Just something else to check if you’re having much elevation change from home to start of ride… push pressure release buttons on fork, although shouldn't matter unless big elevation change. (simple to forget, I’ve done it on sea-level to 4,000’ ride and it affected fork response).

 

[Onetime]

Well, everyone likes everything....

I suppose I ought to go through the fork first. I thought sending it back to FOX might do that for me. With no air in the fork and the upper open to atmosphere it's still very difficult to pull or extend the forward, it feels like it builds a vacuum and will "rebound" back to fully closed, is that normal?

That's a terrible explanation, maybe I'll take a video

That is normal with the fork compressed with no air in it. As you put air in it, and compress it past half travel several times as you increase the air pressure, the positive and negative chambers will equalize and the fork will be fine. Just put in a MRP Lift V2 damper and Noken and you’ll be stoked on it.