What did you buy your ebike this week?

Spesh Butchers (and the older butcher eliminator combo prior), which I thought were pretty decent prior to my experience with these Albert's!
I thought the Butchers were decent as well but, the back tire was worn out at 315 miles and the front at 460. I replaced the rear with the Albert and was very surprised by its incredible grip. Once the front Butcher was shot (it probably had another 50 miles in it), I put an Albert on the front and have been thoroughly satisfied. Hopefully the Alberts last longer than the Butchers but given their performance, I'm sticking with them from here out.
 
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I fitted the B1 tuning kit and much prefer it, more control, not locking the rear as much and lighter lever but the power is still there when you need it

View attachment 180588


Nice
 
Converted bikes to Clik valves.

  • Clik valves
  • Lezyne Clik head for floor plump
  • Clik mechanical pressure gauge (my Accu-Gage isn't compatible)
  • Clik adapter in my pack
What are the benefits? I have no issues with presta.
 
I bought one of these to go on my old very shagged lifeline track pump
had to cut the hose diameter down, but it works a treat now
1775047240950.webp
 
I bought one of these to go on my old very shagged lifeline track pump
had to cut the hose diameter down, but it works a treat now
View attachment 180702
Apparently there’s another air valve on the market besides schrader, presta, Filmore and Click. (Read about it yesterday) .
Promises more air flow, lower profile, ease of use etc.

Trojan? Legion has launched its Trojan tubeless valve, a high flow variant marketed.

IMG_1209.webp
 
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Apparently there’s another air valve on the market besides schrader, presta, Filmore and Click. (Read about it yesterday) .
Promises more air flow, lower profile, ease of use etc.
I'm absolutely fine with Presta on all our bikes, having a decent pump head stops you from bending the little brass thread (I use a Specialized Air Tool Big Bore Pump off road) and the replacement valves are pennies if you don't want to ungunk em.
 
I'm absolutely fine with Presta on all our bikes, having a decent pump head stops you from bending the little brass thread (I use a Specialized Air Tool Big Bore Pump off road) and the replacement valves are pennies if you don't want to ungunk em.
Ive been fine with tubes for past 60 years so definitely not changing now.
 
I'm absolutely fine with Presta on all our bikes, having a decent pump head stops you from bending the little brass thread (I use a Specialized Air Tool Big Bore Pump off road) and the replacement valves are pennies if you don't want to ungunk em.
I’ve been using Filmore valves for a few years. A fairly good solution for air loss, similar to any presta, but you can’t inject Mucoff sealant through the valve. (Clogs up).

I break the tire bead instead.
 
Apparently there’s another air valve on the market besides schrader, presta, Filmore and Click. (Read about it yesterday) .
Promises more air flow, lower profile, ease of use etc.

Trojan? Legion has launched its Trojan tubeless valve, a high flow variant marketed.

View attachment 180703
Currently use Muckoff big bore which works fine with our Presta floor pump (Joe Blow Mountain X). That's interesting, and very low profile too, will look into it. (y)

Edit: needs a special pump adapter. 👎
 
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The one thing that Muc-Off don't tell you about the Big-Bore valve is something that I could have worked out for myself if only I had thought about it enough beforehand. :unsure:

Yes, I know it uses a ball valve as the actual valve. And therefore I sort of knew that the valve needed twisting through 90 deg to open up the valve for inlet.

What caught me by surprise was the first time I pumped up the tyre after installation. I simply removed the pump hose and all the air in the tyre pissed out explosively! :eek: Those big bores really let the air out fast!

Next time I closed the valve before removing the pump hose. :)

Same procedure when checking the tyre pressure. That caught me out once as well! But I'm a quick learner. :giggle:
 
Well I read all the instructions on the Muc-Off website, silly me, smack my hand ;)

Edit: one thing to be wary of is that when letting air out before a tyre change the air comes out so fast that it can blast a fine layer of sealant onto the hub. Readily solved of course by holding something like a piece of workshop paper above the valve as the air comes out.
 
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I was the mechanic for a 5 bike at a time DH family on those stupid Presta valves . I would’ve killed for these Clik valves out on the trail a few years ago.
I used Presta because it’s there, not cause it’s great. Clik are much easier. Ridiculously easy. Sorry guys
Presta are old tech
Expensive? To some yes
I am 100% satisfied with my Clik swap on all 6 of my bikes.
 
Expensive? To some yes

Not trying to be an evangelist, but here are costs I've experienced for those interested.

The per-bike cost for valves was $10-$12 and the one-time cost for pump adapters and a tire gauge was $30.

In the US, a pair of Clik valves is currently $10-$12 (comes with caps and a valve tool, branded by Clik or Schwalbe). A metal pump adapter that works with schrader valves is $15 but when I ordered valves from Clik's website, they threw in the adaptor for free. You can also buy a pair of valves bundled with a plastic adapter for ~$15. Use the adapter with floor or hand pumps and some CO2 cartridges. Then Lezyne sells a Clik adapter for their ABS Pro chucks, got it for $10 for my floor pump. Clik sells analog and digital tire gauges - the former cost me $20.
 
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