Vala - pulling dropper post & rear mech cable housing

[tryingagain]

I'm looking to swap the current (mechanical) dropper post and groupset for AXS on my Vala. What's the internal routing like for the cabling? Can I just pull them both from the headtube end, or is there a risk of them getting snagged somewhere as they pass the motor? I'd rather not drop the motor if I don't have to. The dropper cable outer currently moves freely; if I'm honest I haven't checked the rear mech yet. Thanks!

 

[5irHC]

Its all internally guided on the main frame.

 

[tryingagain]

Its all internally guided on the main frame.

Excellent, thanks. I'll get pulling with gay abandon (well, a modicum of self-restraint).

 

[Stihldog]

Excellent, thanks. I'll get pulling with gay abandon (well, a modicum of self-restraint).

Welcome to the Exclusive AXS Wireless Dropper Club.

I installed my AXS Reverb a number of years ago (1st gen?) and I don’t regret it. I increased to a 170mm from a mechanical 150mm. I carefully pulled the cable housing through the frame and discovered a few points of resistance. The battery compartment had organizing clips which had to be released on my Trek Rail. The SC may be different.

There are two types of wireless controllers available (pod and paddle type) that both require the cp32 coin size battery. That has lasted me up to 2 years. I prefer the paddle controller.

Once the dropper is paired and the height and seat angle are adjusted, there is some regular maintenance (similar to a regular dropper post) but now you’re cable free.

I hope your “ups” are as fun as you’re “downs”.

 

[tryingagain]

Welcome to the Exclusive AXS Wireless Dropper Club.

I installed my AXS Reverb a number of years ago (1st gen?) and I don’t regret it. I increased to a 170mm from a mechanical 150mm. I carefully pulled the cable housing through the frame and discovered a few points of resistance. The battery compartment had organizing clips which had to be released on my Trek Rail. The SC may be different.

There are two types of wireless controllers available (pod and paddle type) that both require the cp32 coin size battery. That has lasted me up to 2 years. I prefer the paddle controller.

Once the dropper is paired and the height and seat angle are adjusted, there is some regular maintenance (similar to a regular dropper post) but now you’re cable free.

I hope your “ups” are as fun as you’re “downs”.

Cheers, I ran the first version for a few years and have now procured a B1 for the new bike. Got pod for the dropper and rocker for the shifters, so hoping they'll be as ergonomic as the pre-T-type versions.

 

[Stihldog]

Cheers, I ran the first version for a few years and have now procured a B1 for the new bike. Got pod for the dropper and rocker for the shifters, so hoping they'll be as ergonomic as the pre-T-type versions.

A friend prefers the pod controller for both the dropper and derailer. We made the switch instead of purchasing those expensive little controllers.

I haven’t tried the B1 version, but I wonder if the insertion and height is similar to the original AXS Reverb?

 

[Suns_PSD]

Pretty sure the B1 has better insertion and stack depths.

I've used my new B1 for the first time a couple of days ago and it's my first time on an electronic dropper. It's quite nice but I don't understand why I need that huge controller. Just like a manual dropper you only need one button. Any other options out there? Like a small one button controller?

As far as the cables, I was able to just tug them through on my new Wild, the shifter, the dropper and the rear brake all came out easily. But I still had to drop the motor to rerun the new rear brake cable.

Dropping the motor was super easy. I just removed the bash guard (4 small allen screws), loosened the rear engine mount and removed the front engine mount and the motor just swung down giving me full access to everything.

 

[Stihldog]

Pretty sure the B1 has better insertion and stack depths.

I've used my new B1 for the first time a couple of days ago and it's my first time on an electronic dropper. It's quite nice but I don't understand why I need that huge controller. Just like a manual dropper you only need one button. Any other options out there? Like a small one button controller?

As far as the cables, I was able to just tug them through on my new Wild, the shifter, the dropper and the rear brake all came out easily. But I still had to drop the motor to rerun the new rear brake cable.

Dropping the motor was super easy. I just removed the bash guard (4 small allen screws), loosened the rear engine mount and removed the front engine mount and the motor just swung down giving me full access to everything.

Yeah, a simple controller button is all that is needed …but the paddle controller works for me. I only know of the pod controller as an alternative.

I use the paddle controller for the derailer also (different type. Which has the index finger actuator also.