Trek rail fork upgrades / extra thick crown

[coregrind]

look for the notch generally on the back of the race, use a small enough screwdriver and wedge it there with a mallet or hammer. It should pop up a bit and work your way around the race till it’s free. Putting a few drops of oil around race wouldn’t hurt either.

And if that proves too much of a challenge, or if the race is damaged in the process, I’ve replaced my original with an aluminum 1.5” race from FSA. Cane Creek also has a suitable replacement, but not identical to the original...obviously.

 

[davem85]

And if that proves too much of a challenge, or if the race is damaged in the process, I’ve replaced my original with an aluminum 1.5” race from FSA. Cane Creek also has a suitable replacement, but not identical to the original...obviously.

Thank you guys!
So the original race isn't really a specific one - you can use different 1.5" races from other manufacturers? Any numbers that have match apart from 1.5" tapered?

I'll try getting it out first.
How much damage would be acceptable? Little marks from the screwdriver on the edge already too much? It obviously needs to stay flat.

Did you use a plastic pipe to install it on the new fork or a specific tool?

And what about the races with a cutout on the side? Can you use these too? Installation and removal seem a lot easier. Any disadvantages?

 

[Iggy_BBR]

Thank you guys!
So the original race isn't really a specific one - you can use different 1.5" races from other manufacturers? Any numbers that have match apart from 1.5" tapered?

I'll try getting it out first.
How much damage would be acceptable? Little marks from the screwdriver on the edge already too much? It obviously needs to stay flat.

Did you use a plastic pipe to install it on the new fork or a specific tool?

And what about the races with a cutout on the side? Can you use these too? Installation and removal seem a lot easier. Any disadvantages?

The Race wouldn't have the cutout the crown of the fork would have it.

As long it lays flat for the bearing to rotate smoothly is important.

If you're brave, you could cut a thin slit into the race, so its easier to install and remove. What I have done to install races without a tool at home, is actually installing the bottom race, bearing, install into the frame, slide the top bearings and other parts including the stem with spacers, making sure the stem sits above the top of the fork. Now put the stem compression cap on and clamp it down till the race is seated, it shouldn't take much to do so. Just make sure to grease up the crown before put the bottom race on.

 

[coregrind]

Thank you guys!
So the original race isn't really a specific one - you can use different 1.5" races from other manufacturers? Any numbers that have match apart from 1.5" tapered?

Did you use a plastic pipe to install it on the new fork or a specific tool?

The angle of the bearing interface has to match, but it's pretty standard since the bearing specifications aren't unique for the Knock Block headset. I've used 1.5" races from FSA with UPCs:

• 400310034113
• 400310019905

Personally, I've got a proper tool for race installation. However, I'd think an appropriate size PVC or ABS pipe that is long enough would do the trick too.

 

[davem85]

The Race wouldn't have the cutout the crown of the fork would have it.

As long it lays flat for the bearing to rotate smoothly is important.

If you're brave, you could cut a thin slit into the race, so its easier to install and remove. What I have done to install races without a tool at home, is actually installing the bottom race, bearing, install into the frame, slide the top bearings and other parts including the stem with spacers, making sure the stem sits above the top of the fork. Now put the stem compression cap on and clamp it down till the race is seated, it shouldn't take much to do so. Just make sure to grease up the crown before put the bottom race on.

Got it out almost unharmed. ?
Actually it was pretty easy using some WD40, a screwdriver for the initial mms and a spatula for the rest.
What really helped was cooling down the steerer tube with cooling spray.

I somehow like the idea pressing it in using the headset itself. Need to take care to stay aligned perfectly I guess.

 

[Iggy_BBR]

Got it out almost unharmed. ?
Actually it was pretty easy using some WD40, a screwdriver for the initial mms and a spatula for the rest.
What really helped was cooling down the steerer tube with cooling spray.

I somehow like the idea pressing it in using the headset itself. Need to take care to stay aligned perfectly I guess.

IMO and tinkering with my bikes for many years, I have learned to use what I have, but also it would be nice to have certain tools. Then again installation of certain things like headset race are way easier now compared to my BMX days, sitting there with a harden steel screwdriver, hammer and 15-30 minutes with trying to wedge it off the fork.