TQ HPR50 Grinding Noise

Do newer HPR 50s still have this grinding noise?
And what is about the new HPR 60?
Quote from a article review article about the new 60 motor. ( I can't find anything mentioning whether the new motor has the same grind as the old 50 )

"When it comes to natural ride feel, the older HPR50 still has the edge. It responds more smoothly and offers better modulation. That’s something a software update could likely improve – but at the time of testing, it made a small difference. The HPR60 also doesn’t increase the support that much at higher cadences. At some point, you’re left wondering: is the power coming from the motor or your legs?
 
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Quote from a article review article about the new 60 motor. ( I can't find anything mentioning whether the new motor has the same grind as the old 50 )

"When it comes to natural ride feel, the older HPR50 still has the edge. It responds more smoothly and offers better modulation. That’s something a software update could likely improve – but at the time of testing, it made a small difference. The HPR60 also doesn’t increase the support that much at higher cadences. At some point, you’re left wondering: is the power coming from the motor or your legs?
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I picked up my TQ equipped Trek a week ago and noticed a strange growling sound coming from the motor under certain conditions. It turns out that that happens under conditions of high cadence and/or low pedal force that can occur after shifting. It does seem to be associated with a temporary mismatch between motor and pedal speeds that disappears once the motor catches up. Give what I am reading here, I am going to assume the behavior is normal and not worry about it unless it gets significantly worse.
Chuck
 
I picked up my TQ equipped Trek a week ago and noticed a strange growling sound coming from the motor under certain conditions. It turns out that that happens under conditions of high cadence and/or low pedal force that can occur after shifting. It does seem to be associated with a temporary mismatch between motor and pedal speeds that disappears once the motor catches up. Give what I am reading here, I am going to assume the behavior is normal and not worry about it unless it gets significantly worse.
Chuck
I am very interested in your motor sound. The original one that was talked about most on this thread, in which I probably started and may have used the word "mismatch ", which was not actually a good word, that sound comes from a partial or incomplete engagement of the Sprague clutches which occurs come as acknowledged by TQ, when there's only 10 or 15% output by the motor. This low output by the motor occurs when there's low torque applied by the writer to the crank. When you apply more torque the motor puts out more power and more torque itself and that goes ahead and engages fully the Fraud clutches.. I don't think it relates to the peddling cadence except that coincidentally after you shifted into a lower gear you may be peddling at a higher cadence in order to catch up to that Geer and also applying minimal torque on the riders part until the bike slows down enough to offer some back resistance therefore the writer applies more torque therefore the motor goes ahead and puts out more torque itself and engages it's sprague gears fully.
This typically happens when you downshift approaching a hill And you're paddling faster but haven't yet felt the resistance of the hill. In that circumstance The motor only puts out a little power in torque. You can reproduce this phenomenon even on level ground by downshifting from seventh gear to fifth gear and peddling a little faster but not applying any torque on your part. I can keep the sound going indefinitely by fine-tuning minimal torque. I can also make it happen on any TQ bike, at least the three different ones that I've tried, and fellow riders who had not appreciated this phenomenon at all. ( but I did not tell them about it because I didn't want them to start noticing it or feel bad about it) it's harder to do when some TQ motorbikes than others. I would be interested in hearing if you can do this on your bike, in order to know if yours is a different phenomenon.
 
I am very interested in your motor sound. The original one that was talked about most on this thread, in which I probably started and may have used the word "mismatch ", which was not actually a good word, that sound comes from a partial or incomplete engagement of the Sprague clutches which occurs come as acknowledged by TQ, when there's only 10 or 15% output by the motor. This low output by the motor occurs when there's low torque applied by the writer to the crank. When you apply more torque the motor puts out more power and more torque itself and that goes ahead and engages fully the Fraud clutches.. I don't think it relates to the peddling cadence except that coincidentally after you shifted into a lower gear you may be peddling at a higher cadence in order to catch up to that Geer and also applying minimal torque on the riders part until the bike slows down enough to offer some back resistance therefore the writer applies more torque therefore the motor goes ahead and puts out more torque itself and engages it's sprague gears fully.
This typically happens when you downshift approaching a hill And you're paddling faster but haven't yet felt the resistance of the hill. In that circumstance The motor only puts out a little power in torque. You can reproduce this phenomenon even on level ground by downshifting from seventh gear to fifth gear and peddling a little faster but not applying any torque on your part. I can keep the sound going indefinitely by fine-tuning minimal torque. I can also make it happen on any TQ bike, at least the three different ones that I've tried, and fellow riders who had not appreciated this phenomenon at all. ( but I did not tell them about it because I didn't want them to start noticing it or feel bad about it) it's harder to do when some TQ motorbikes than others. I would be interested in hearing if you can do this on your bike, in order to know if yours is a different phenomenon.
Hi, I am certain it is the same phenomenon. As you said it is associated with the motor re-engaging the clutch after the rider has momentarily caused motor torque to drop by reducing their own pedaling input as when shifting. Interestingly it hardly happened at all on today's ride because instead of down shifting for hills I simply triggered Level 2 or 3 from the motor as needed. The worst scenario seems to be falling into a high cadence with little force on the pedals, as when down shifting for a hill (in my experience). In any case, it doesn't seem to be a serious problem.
Chuck
 
Hi, I am certain it is the same phenomenon. As you said it is associated with the motor re-engaging the clutch after the rider has momentarily caused motor torque to drop by reducing their own pedaling input as when shifting. Interestingly it hardly happened at all on today's ride because instead of down shifting for hills I simply triggered Level 2 or 3 from the motor as needed. The worst scenario seems to be falling into a high cadence with little force on the pedals, as when down shifting for a hill (in my experience). In any case, it doesn't seem to be a serious problem.
Chuck
Thanks for this feedback. You expressed the phenomenon much more clearly and succinctly than I do. It does seem to vary in degree from hour to hour or day-to-day. At first I thought it was a matter of temperature in the environment, or motor heat, which may actually have some subtle influence since it's a tipping point kind of thing. Also it seems to start on some bikes, new bikes, at 30 to 100 km. It did not start on my first TQ trek until about 200 miles and was getting worse and worse until the dealer swapped the motors. The new motor seemed to cure it completely until about 60 miles when it restarted, but much less than the first motor. The best cure is to ignore it. If One is really lucky he will never notice it in the first place
 
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