Levo Gen 4 Specialized Gen 4 Levo - Official Thread

I agree ot got wilder than the initial release SW. I looped out now as well a few times and before it felt more composed in those uphill scenarios. but it's still bitter than what I had on my old kenevo and after 2-3 rides I learned today manage. Sorry to hear you had to pay the lesson hard!
 
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I agree ot got wilder than the initial release SW. I looped out now as well a few times and before it felt more composed in those uphill scenarios. but it's still bitter than what I had on my old kenevo and after 2-3 rides I learned today manage. Sorry to hear you had to pay the lesson hard!
Thanks for confirming that someone else is experiencing this. Did you try changing your assist modes in a customized way that could get around this? The loop out is easier to control now that I am expecting it, but I still am frustrated at not being able to climb these short steep ups at all, so looking for a different customization in settings to be able to manage it. I think I will try the race preset, "no time to waste" initially. Specialized must be aware of this so maybe they'll come out with a fix eventually.
 
Thanks for confirming that someone else is experiencing this. Did you try changing your assist modes in a customized way that could get around this? The loop out is easier to control now that I am expecting it, but I still am frustrated at not being able to climb these short steep ups at all, so looking for a different customization in settings to be able to manage it. I think I will try the race preset, "no time to waste" initially. Specialized must be aware of this so maybe they'll come out with a fix eventually.

This is the conclusion of the evaluation of this updated motor at the E Mountain Bike magazine website: The S-Works 3.1 stands out above all for its incredible adaptability, and thanks to a range of smart features, you can fine-tune the motor’s character to suit your riding style. Out on the trails, it delivers impressive traction, consistent power delivery and confident control. In everyday use, it’s backed up by a fast charger, range extender and the best app in the entire test field. Minor weaknesses only become noticeable when riding aggressively, and while they cost it a few points in the final ranking, they don’t take away from its overall performance. All in all, it’s a well-thought-out, practical and extremely versatile motor system with a strong ecosystem, built into an outstanding bike.


icon_top_darkmode.png

Tops​

  • Enormous adjustability of the motor system
  • Excellent traction
  • Best app and connectivity in the test
  • Fast charger
icon_flop-darkmode.png

Flops​

  • Slightly delayed response on technical uphills
  • Fairly bulky motor area

I disagree that this is a slightly delayed response on technical uphills. This could result in serious injury.
 
This is the conclusion of the evaluation of this updated motor at the E Mountain Bike magazine website: The S-Works 3.1 stands out above all for its incredible adaptability, and thanks to a range of smart features, you can fine-tune the motor’s character to suit your riding style. Out on the trails, it delivers impressive traction, consistent power delivery and confident control. In everyday use, it’s backed up by a fast charger, range extender and the best app in the entire test field. Minor weaknesses only become noticeable when riding aggressively, and while they cost it a few points in the final ranking, they don’t take away from its overall performance. All in all, it’s a well-thought-out, practical and extremely versatile motor system with a strong ecosystem, built into an outstanding bike.

icon_top_darkmode.png

Tops​

  • Enormous adjustability of the motor system
  • Excellent traction
  • Best app and connectivity in the test
  • Fast charger
icon_flop-darkmode.png

Flops​

  • Slightly delayed response on technical uphills
  • Fairly bulky motor area

I disagree that this is a slightly delayed response on technical uphills. This could result in serious injury.
A man got to know his limitations......
 
Thanks for confirming that someone else is experiencing this. Did you try changing your assist modes in a customized way that could get around this? The loop out is easier to control now that I am expecting it, but I still am frustrated at not being able to climb these short steep ups at all, so looking for a different customization in settings to be able to manage it. I think I will try the race preset, "no time to waste" initially. Specialized must be aware of this so maybe they'll come out with a fix eventually.
Well on the old kenevo I usually did a lot of mode switching on the uphills to avoid looping out. On the L4 I initially felt this isn't needed anymore due to better reaction on rider input. After the update it's still manageable to stay in turbo on most uphills but I sometimes now dial back to trail. My trail setting is less powerful than yours, something like 60:100 or so. Also I run with full overrun, zero shuttle, fast power delivery. Maybe I have to try to dial back the delivery settings. But I see you already run Slow and still run into the same problem of looping out
 
How much do you weigh? With loop out you mean the motor power isn't enough and you stall in the uphill and tip over/back?

Because as a light rider it's hard to imagine that a modern motor would be too weak in this scenario. My problem is that if it's steep and technical and I set the motor up too strong the bike does a wheelie and I get thrown off.

Like this is the limitation, not the motor if it gets too steep the front rises. But that's not called loop out? You mean stall?
 
I am wondering what's going on with the App.
It used to automatically count my rides and seemed to understand that when I turn off the bike the ride is over.
Now even if I bring the app up after a ride it doesn't seem to notice that I was just riding so there is nothing for me to Finish.
But after I drive home it shows up so I can finish the ride, but it includes my drive home.

It seems like it is getting confused with the Garmin Connect app.

I've had it work properly, but it seems like it messes up more than getting things right.

This week it messed up 2 of my 3 rides.
 
I always turn of the the bike when I leave it but today I forgot it and it was still on after one hour but I thought it should turn off itself after 15 minutes like Levo 3 did.
Anyone else noticed it?
 
How much do you weigh? With loop out you mean the motor power isn't enough and you stall in the uphill and tip over/back?

Because as a light rider it's hard to imagine that a modern motor would be too weak in this scenario. My problem is that if it's steep and technical and I set the motor up too strong the bike does a wheelie and I get thrown off.

Like this is the limitation, not the motor if it gets too steep the front rises. But that's not called loop out? You mean stall?
I have the same lack of understanding. Loop out makes me think excess power is raising the front end of the bike, but the description sounds like some are experiencing a loss of power.

A screenshot of my settings is below. I really run Turbo 99% of the time, and really just tuned Trail for when I'm following an analog since 100/100+Shuttle High+Fast Responsiveness can make the bike a bit jumpy behind a slow rider. I don't believe I've ever used Eco. Been considering putting Overrun to the high setting.

IMG_2105.webp
 
Looped out to me is a wheelie that got out of control and you are on your ass. Bike is somewhere in front of you

Endo, your ass flew over the bars somehow. Front heavy landings, excessive front lever grabbing….bike is somewhere behind you

Then there’s various slide outs, caused by off camber turns, normal turns🤣. Various other reasons. Bike is somewhere in the blackberries, safe, laughing saying “come on, you did this”

I usually ride in eco, trail mode uphill. Honestly climbing on these new updates on Turbo makes me feel kinda weird, it’s excessive.
I have looped out trying to wheelie. With no direct control over motor, it’s a bit tough.
I have not had the bike apply to much power, or stop all assist on a challenging uphill. It just pulls me up.

I’m sure some have (as stated above) had crashes related to various software things. To me, Crashes do not indicate a bike issue. 100% of my crashes have been my own fault.
 
Looped out to me is a wheelie that got out of control and you are on your ass. Bike is somewhere in front of you

Endo, your ass flew over the bars somehow. Front heavy landings, excessive front lever grabbing….bike is somewhere behind you

Then there’s various slide outs, caused by off camber turns, normal turns🤣. Various other reasons. Bike is somewhere in the blackberries, safe, laughing saying “come on, you did this”

I usually ride in eco, trail mode uphill. Honestly climbing on these new updates on Turbo makes me feel kinda weird, it’s excessive.
I have looped out trying to wheelie. With no direct control over motor, it’s a bit tough.
I have not had the bike apply to much power, or stop all assist on a challenging uphill. It just pulls me up.

I’m sure some have (as stated above) had crashes related to various software things. To me, Crashes do not indicate a bike issue. 100% of my crashes have been my own fault.
yes exactly, since the update there's a power boost in a way I didn't notice before and its resemblance is more like the kenevo I hade where it's really delicate to control. Before the update I feel it was easier to control the power output via one's power input so to say.
An abrupt power loss I didn't notice yet. What I mean is to get thrown off the back of the horse.. Sure, braking helps, it was just better/easier to control before.. in my opinion

I'm weighing ~85kg
 
Sounds a bit like the race motor from Bosch. The question would be if you can tune it down a bit vis the software to get to the sweet spot how it was before. You probably need to tinker with all the variables a bit.

I also see people regularly going into steep/technic uphills not in on the biggest cog/lightest gear.

I set it up in a way where turbo is only slightly stronger than trail. So I have 40/70 trail and maybe 45/80 turbo.

When I see a very technical steep section coming up I close the damper platform, shift into the lowest gear before the steep section starts and pedal into it with trail. The point to only switch into turbo when you need is to avoid going in too fast so that you miss the line. But sometimes you also have to go in full turbo. It depends. Also be sure to go really low with the torso over the bars and lower the seat post.

And if the difference between trail and turbo is too big switching mid climb can lead to the front rising and you get trown off.
 
Sounds a bit like the race motor from Bosch. The question would be if you can tune it down a bit vis the software to get to the sweet spot how it was before. You probably need to tinker with all the variables a bit.

I also see people regularly going into steep/technic uphills not in on the biggest cog/lightest gear.

I set it up in a way where turbo is only slightly stronger than trail. So I have 40/70 trail and maybe 45/80 turbo.

When I see a very technical steep section coming up I close the damper platform, shift into the lowest gear before the steep section starts and pedal into it with trail. The point to only switch into turbo when you need is to avoid going in too fast so that you miss the line. But sometimes you also have to go in full turbo. It depends. Also be sure to go really low with the torso over the bars and lower the seat post.

And if the difference between trail and turbo is too big switching mid climb can lead to the front rising and you get trown off.
Cadence is one of the most overlooked skills on a EMTB. I am confident that’s why we see so many motor failures. High torque, low revs. Recipe for destroying an electric motor. Huge amp draw. Levos want 75-90 rpm for best performance and longevity . Thats pretty fast. I rarely see anyone pedal that fast.
 
Since I’m resting my twisted knee and missing my usual Tuesday night ride; I’m left to tinker. Decided to test the long chainstay setting. Since I’m concerned about lowering the bottom bracket height in my super rocky terrain; I also moved to the Long shock extension setting to half the difference. I was already thinking to testing the -1° headset angle adjustment, so the -0.4° headset angle this position provides is welcomed.

Total impact on geo:
Chainstay length +9mm (444mm)
Headtube angle -4° (64.1°)
BB height -6mm (344mm)

(My S4 has a 480mm Reach)

Mostly concerned about the 344mm BB height. I ride a lot of tight switchbacks so it’ll be interesting to learn if they become an issue, but I’m not expecting a big problem. We’ll see!

IMG_2133.webp
 
Since I’m resting my twisted knee and missing my usual Tuesday night ride; I’m left to tinker. Decided to test the long chainstay setting. Since I’m concerned about lowering the bottom bracket height in my super rocky terrain; I also moved to the Long shock extension setting to half the difference. I was already thinking to testing the -1° headset angle adjustment, so the -0.4° headset angle this position provides is welcomed.

Total impact on geo:
Chainstay length +9mm (444mm)
Headtube angle -4° (64.1°)
BB height -6mm (344mm)

(My S4 has a 480mm Reach)

Mostly concerned about the 344mm BB height. I ride a lot of tight switchbacks so it’ll be interesting to learn if they become an issue, but I’m not expecting a big problem. We’ll see!

View attachment 179196
This is the route I plan on going..... High shock chip, Long chain stay and slag head angle.....
 
Those were my concerns too, but meanwhile I run it in long, low & neutral headset with a 170mm fork. So far only 1 major rock strike, and I'm planning to install a metal skid plate. But otherwise it's not much of an issue for me. I definitely expected more.
 
Cadence is one of the most overlooked skills on a EMTB. I am confident that’s why we see so many motor failures. High torque, low revs. Recipe for destroying an electric motor. Huge amp draw. Levos want 75-90 rpm for best performance and longevity . Thats pretty fast. I rarely see anyone pedal that fast.
Yeah, people are trying to 'shift' with their motors.
 
Yeah, people are trying to 'shift' with their motors.
I think most EMTB riders don’t have any idea the motor strain of low rpm, high torque situations over and over. Poor climbing technique, the cumulative effect of making the motor ask for more juice while restricting its rpm , creates intense strain on the motor.
When I hear , I’m on my second or third motor, I can’t help but think….is it the motor or the pedaler. Without victim blaming too much…..🤣
Cadence 1000% matters to the longevity of our Emtbs electronics. Shift down and get those feet moving!!!
 
I think most EMTB riders don’t have any idea the motor strain of low rpm, high torque situations over and over. Poor climbing technique, the cumulative effect of making the motor ask for more juice while restricting its rpm , creates intense strain on the motor.
When I hear , I’m on my second or third motor, I can’t help but think….is it the motor or the pedaler. Without victim blaming too much…..🤣
Cadence 1000% matters to the longevity of our Emtbs electronics. Shift down and get those feet moving!!!

couldnt agree with you more pissman, you always see people grinding away in the lower gears with high motor setting.
 
couldnt agree with you more pissman, you always see people grinding away in the lower gears with high motor setting.
Yip, My partner does that .... stays in the smallest gear and uses the power settings as the gears ..... I was wondering why I have to keep replacing her chain and cassette every few months ...... all the other teeth are untouched expect the 10 and 12t
 
Since I’m resting my twisted knee and missing my usual Tuesday night ride; I’m left to tinker. Decided to test the long chainstay setting. Since I’m concerned about lowering the bottom bracket height in my super rocky terrain; I also moved to the Long shock extension setting to half the difference. I was already thinking to testing the -1° headset angle adjustment, so the -0.4° headset angle this position provides is welcomed.

Total impact on geo:
Chainstay length +9mm (444mm)
Headtube angle -4° (64.1°)
BB height -6mm (344mm)

(My S4 has a 480mm Reach)

Mostly concerned about the 344mm BB height. I ride a lot of tight switchbacks so it’ll be interesting to learn if they become an issue, but I’m not expecting a big problem. We’ll see!

View attachment 179196
I moved the shock extension into the long position to gain a little more BB clearance. I've kept the chainstay length shock since like you, I need to navigate the tight switchbacks on many of our trails. For my riding, I'm more concerned with lower speed, tight handling than high speed stability. That being said, I'm probably not good enough to tell the difference if you handed me the same bike with different settings and had me ride the same section back to back.
 
Since I’m resting my twisted knee and missing my usual Tuesday night ride; I’m left to tinker. Decided to test the long chainstay setting. Since I’m concerned about lowering the bottom bracket height in my super rocky terrain; I also moved to the Long shock extension setting to half the difference. I was already thinking to testing the -1° headset angle adjustment, so the -0.4° headset angle this position provides is welcomed.

Total impact on geo:
Chainstay length +9mm (444mm)
Headtube angle -4° (64.1°)
BB height -6mm (344mm)

(My S4 has a 480mm Reach)

Mostly concerned about the 344mm BB height. I ride a lot of tight switchbacks so it’ll be interesting to learn if they become an issue, but I’m not expecting a big problem. We’ll see!

View attachment 179196

Just looped Big Sister trail 4x testing the long stay geo (and my knee). I’m surprised to find the bike seemed to handle better in every way. Even quick S turn sequences were better. I have to ride it more, but my concern over the bike feeling too stable appear to be unwarranted. There’s a little adjustment in positioning my body in relation to the rear wheel in turns, but that will become instinctive really soon. Literally the only downside is the bottom bracket being lower… but the issue is real.
For now I’ll ride it but if the BB height becomes untenable, I’ll be considering setting it to short chainstay, long shock extension, but with the -1° headset cups. That would give me a similar head angle with short chainstays and higher than stock BB height.

IMG_2144.webp

IMG_2147.webp
 
Yip, My partner does that .... stays in the smallest gear and uses the power settings as the gears ..... I was wondering why I have to keep replacing her chain and cassette every few months ...... all the other teeth are untouched expect the 10 and 12t

Yeah two of my friends who only ever rode ebike both have 2+ motors done and always need new drive units. My gen 3 levo had no motor issues in 2 years and 2000 something miles, Definitely think correct shifting and use makes a big difference.
 
Looking to buy a gen 4 but worried about buying one and a new one come out soon but with the R just announced does anyone think there will be an updated 4?
 
I bought a Levo 4 early doors and have had an absolute blast, I did feel for my needs the 150 rear wasn’t enough so I added a cascade link for 160 and upped fork to 170 which has been a total improvement. The way I see it you could buy a discounted Levo now, stick the money into either of the cascade links (160 or170) if you felt the need and be on one now rather than procrastinating.
 
Not for another 3 years at the least.
There is a longer travel version coming. But it’s a gen4 with bigger legs
Between the less than stellar recation and Brose being bought by Yamaha I think Specialized will cut their losses on this platform long before 2029. I think they will have to bring something new in 2027.
 
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