Shimano E8000 range

In addition what @mark.ai says it's worth noting that for a reasonable fit and strong rider the Trail mode can actually consume the battery as fast as the Boost, if you use The Force of your legs.

Both modes allow the maximum assistance torque and power (without tinkering the factory settings), so if you're strong enough, you'll reach the max assistance no matter if you use Boost or Trail and after that moment there's no difference fuel consumption wise (between these two modes). When you're after those KOMs and you've got the guns and ammos, the difference between Trail and Boost is almost non existent.
 
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As this thread demonstrates there are so many variables that effect battery range - i reckon tyre choice alone can get you an extra km or two out of the battery, a heavy DH casing tyre being run with tubes, vs a mid weight XC tyre running tubeless with have a significant effect on unsprung weight/rolling resistance, enough to effect the range.
 
I don't know exactly where I got it... but everywhere from the net, I guess. Isn't it like public domain info:

Mode: Assist ratio-% / Max torque
--------------------------------------------
Eco: 60% / 30 Nm
Trail: 90 % / 70 Nm
Boost: 300% / 70 Nm

The difference between Trail and Boost is in the Assist ratio, which is the percentage how much the motor assists on top of your own input. Both give the maximum torque of 70 Nm and after that there's no difference, motor is giving all it has to give, no more.

In Boost you just need less input from your legs, but if you're fit and strong, it's not a big deal, you'll reach the max assist anyway in Trail, too.

freemax.PNG
 
Thanks for explaining. I hadn't realised that's how it worked. And yes I often topout the assistance bar in Trail.
Makes more sense now that boost doesn't always drain my battery hugely faster than trail does. (I also run trail in MID tho)
 
I agree that i can actually climb faster in trail rather than boost - boost for me is more of a cruise back up a fire road etc if feeling lazy.
 
On smooth roads/fireroads BOOST is still awesome though isn't it?, Yeah, you just sit and spin the cranks fast but it's effortless to cruise uphill at world class elite athlete sort of speeds. :D

They should really rename it DOPE ;)
 
Hello

I'm using the Spectral:ON for two month now with my 80kg ready to ride.
My rule of thumb is currently when using more or less only ECO (only on really, really steep climbs, Trail) and also switching off the motor sometimes, that the arithmetic product of distance and height (both in km) is between 50-60.
Examples:
65km*0,7hkm=52 (95% ECO 5% Trail or Off)
35km*1,6hkm=56 (95% ECO 5% Trail or Off)
If you use mainly Trail and Boost it's around half of it.
22km*1,1hkm=25 (80%Trail 20%Boost)

Bye

PS:
@Kev Henson = factor 32, somewhere in between ECO and mostly Trail/Boost
@Rockyw = factor 23, seems to be only Trail or Boost all out.
@R120 = ? How much elevation do you gain with your two rides?
 
Last edited:
Hello

I'm using the Spectral:ON for two month now with my 80kg ready to ride.
My rule of thumb is currently when using more or less only ECO (only on really, really steep climbs, Trail) and also switching off the motor sometimes, that the arithmetic product of distance and height (both in km) is between 50-60.
Examples:
65km*0,7hkm=52 (95% ECO 5% Trail or Off)
35km*1,6hkm=56 (95% ECO 5% Trail or Off)
If you use mainly Trail and Boost it's around half of it.
22km*1,1hkm=25 (80%Trail 20%Boost)

Bye

PS:
@Kev Henson = factor 32, somewhere in between ECO and mostly Trail/Boost
@Rockyw = factor 23, seems to be only Trail or Boost all out.
@R120 = ? How much elevation do you gain with your two rides?

That's an interesting calculation to see, and simple to use too, I like it :)
 
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