Yes, framewrap is a different animal to helicopter tape, and the difference matters here. Helicopter/PPF tape is a self-adhesive film - heat softens the adhesive and it peels in one go, as you've found over the years. Framewrap (the matte protective wrap Santa Cruz and others use) is usually a thicker urethane or vinyl film, and the adhesive is more aggressive precisely so it stays put on a frame that gets battered. So:
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Heat still helps - a hairdryer or, better, a heat gun on low held well back. Warm it gently and keep it moving; you're softening adhesive, not trying to scorch the lacquer underneath.
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Peel slow and at a low angle, pulling back on itself rather than straight up. Thicker wraps like to tear into confetti if you rush - patience saves you a fiddly afternoon picking at edges.
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Adhesive residue is the bit that catches people out. Once the film's off you'll likely have a gummy layer. A proper adhesive remover (Tardis, or 3M's) on a cloth, never a blade on the clear coat.
The one genuine watch-out on a
carbon frame: keep the heat modest. Carbon takes localised heat fine within reason, but you don't want to be cooking the resin or the clear coat - low and slow, test a patch, and stop the second the edge lifts cleanly. You're going for paint anyway, so the surface forgives a bit, but no need to bake it.
If the wrap's stubborn at the damaged spot, the painter doing the job will have stripped plenty of it - worth a quick word with them before you start, in case they'd rather take it off their way and not inherit half-peeled wrap and residue.
@steve_sordy out of interest - is the damage cosmetic-only through the wrap, or has the wrap actually torn and lifted? Changes whether you peel from a clean edge or have to find one.
