Levo Gen 2 Removal of turbo levo free hub body?

[DaveNewing]

I have just changed the rear cassette on my 2020 turbo levo comp and noticed the cassette wobbles slightly. It appears that the free hub body rattles slightly against the hollow shaft that passes through the whole hub. I can't work out how to remove the free hub body. I have taken off the cassette an undone the little boss (with spanner flats on) that covers the first bearing. How do you get the actual free hub body off?

 

[Mikerb]

Assuming it is the same as the 2019 Levo it just pulls off if you have removed the hub axle locknut. It has the hub axle going through the 2 bearings in the freehub but nothing further holding it against the hub with the pawl section inside the outer edge of the hub. You either have the axle seized or partially sealed on one of those bearings or possible a pawl not properly seated. So you should be able to wiggle it off. If not, pull the axle out from the non drive side.

 

[DaveNewing]

Thanks Mikerb I'll try that.

 

[Ridgeway Rider]

Thanks Mikerb I'll try that.

As Mikerb states it just pull off. Here is a pic of the free hub from my 2020 Levo which I removed to replace bearings

 

[DaveNewing]

As Mikerb states it just pull off. Here is a pic of the free hub from my 2020 Levo which I removed to replace bearings

View attachment 49624

Thanks for the photo. I tried to pull off the free hub body but it didn't move. I'll use a bit more force next time.

 

[DaveNewing]

As Mikerb states it just pull off. Here is a pic of the free hub from my 2020 Levo which I removed to replace bearings

View attachment 49624

Finally removed the free hub. The bearings had started to rust and that seized them onto the shaft. Do you know what size/type of bearings fit into the free hub body?

 

[DaveNewing]

Finally removed the free hub. The bearings had started to rust and that seized them onto the shaft. Do you know what size/type of bearings fit into the free hub body?

I think I've found out the bearings are size 6903.

 

[Mikerb]

6903 are the bearings for the rear hub. I think you will find the freehub bearings are 6902 ( same as the front wheel hub) but you can easily check by drifting one of the bearings out and check the number stamped on it. Note that the freehub bearings have a spacer shaft between them. It can be pushed aside enough to get a drift onto the bearing shell.

 

[Mikerb]

To avoid a repeat not that the freehub is not very well sealed against the elements.........and certainly not well sealed enough to withstand a pressure wash or strong flow from a garden hose. So it well worthwhile stripping the hub every 6 months or so ( depending on the conditions you ride in) to clean and regrease.

 

[DaveNewing]

To avoid a repeat not that the freehub is not very well sealed against the elements.........and certainly not well sealed enough to withstand a pressure wash or strong flow from a garden hose. So it well worthwhile stripping the hub every 6 months or so ( depending on the conditions you ride in) to clean and regrease.

Thanks for the information. I ride in all weather's so I will try to service the hub every 6 months, or so.

 

[Ridgeway Rider]

Thanks for the information. I ride in all weather's so I will try to service the hub every 6 months, or so.

Thanks for the information. I ride in all weather's so I will try to service the hub every 6 months, or so.

Mikerb is correct. 6902 for the Free hub bearings. Outer one drifts out, inner held in with circlip.

 

[DaveNewing]

Mikerb is correct. 6902 for the Free hub bearings. Outer one drifts out, inner held in with circlip.

Thanks

 

[EME]

Hi
I seem to be having the same issue - 2020 Turbo Levo Comp - 3000km. Started with the occasional chain slip so changed the chain. Issue got worse afterwards and realised I had a lot of lateral play in the cassette. Started investigating and got to this stage. There does seem a lot off play still, but I have no idea how to get the free hub body out/off after which I will change / upgrade to a XD hub. Can you help what do I do next to remove it -- is the install easy -ish ?

 

[DaveNewing]

The boss that pokes out the end of the free hub has two flats to suit a spanner. The other end of your hub (disc brake side) also has two flats. Use a spanner on both sets of flats at the same time and it comes undone. These bosses aren't supposed to be done up very tight. Once the boss comes off you can pull off the free hub body by hand with a bit of wriggling.

 

[Mikerb]

After 3000km it is likely your chain and cassette...and chainring are toast. So you need to change all 3 together.
To get the freehub off you need to remove the nut on the end of the axle. It is a reverse thread nut so clockwise to remove ( hold the locknut on the non drive side to prevent the axle turning).

In terms of the "play" you do not say if that play is side to side or in line with the axle. If the play is in line with the axle ( and assuming the cassette lock nut was torqued correctly, and drive side nut was also correctly adjusted) the play is in the hub axle not the freehub. That may just require re adjusting using the cone nut and lock nut on the non drive side. If the cassette was "rocking" that suggests the hub bearings have worn or even collapsed. Simple and cheap job to renew both bearings if so.
No idea why you want to change to an XD freehub! Firstly it is not as strong as the shimano style freehub, secondly I do not think your existing hub can be modified to take an XD driver so it means a new hub and wheel rebuild...for no real benefit. Fix and service what you have.

 

[EME]

Thanks @DaveNewing and @Mikerb . Ill get on that tomorrow.

To respond to your questions and observations.

Play is / was left to right ie in line with axle , same movement now cassette has been removed. Cassette lock nut was correctly torqued -- I checked that yesterday. I have to say I don't know what the drive side nut is let alone correctly adjusted ?

That wheel set has actually had two cassettes and about 4 chains in its life to date. I agree that I now need to change all 3 together ( I was trying the chain as I had one around and thought I had more life left in all the components) as I have to change the whole set anyways.

Why XD ? I also have a set of carbon wheels (with XD Hub) which are getting new Maxxis tyres for the summer. As I'm "in between " as it were I decided to upgrade everything to 12-speed at the same time.

Im very much still learning about both MTB itself and maintenance and really enjoy the learning. To be honest Id rather "Try" Eagle 12-speed as I'm still NX / GX and slowly look at upgrades different 'levels' of drivetrain. I don't need to worry about having to do a wheel rebuild. In fact Id enjoy the challenge as my riding wont be compromised if/when I screw it up.

Not sure Ive explained all that fully but I can see a way through -- if my aspirations can be matched to my capabilities! Thanks Again for being so thorough.

 

[Mikerb]

To explain your "side" play.
The rear hub has an axle running on 2 bearings, on either side of the hub, and then through the freehub which also has 2 bearings. Once you remove the nut on the drive side the freehub will just pull off exposing the extended end of the axle on which the freehub runs. The nut on drive side is there to hold the freehub onto the axle. It is a reverse thread so has no lock nut. If you were to merely service the freehub and slide it back on, you would then put the reverse thread nut back on and tighten finger tight plus a quarter turn.
With the freehub taken off, you can now go to the non drive side where you will see 2 nuts on the axle.....one tightened against the other to lock it in place. You need a cone spanner to hold the inner nut whilst you unscrew the outer nut ( both standard thread). With both nuts removed the axle will now slide out from the drive side.
Now is you change to inspect the bearings in the hub and freehub and clean up.

I know you intend using a different wheel, but if you were now to re assemble your existing hub, you insert the axle from the drive side. Then put the non drive side cone nut back on and tighten until you feel some resistance to rotation on the axle. Then back off the cone nut a quarter turn such that the axle moves freely. Now check that the axle does not have any side play. Slightly tighten the cone nut if so until any sideplay is gone. Now hold the cone nut in position and tighten the other nut ( locknut) against it.

 

[Loe Rider]

Just replaced the bearings in my fh521. 15 minute job, half hour being leisurely. 6902 bearings but trying stainless to see if they last better. Far cheaper than a new freehub and zero play now. ? I used a bearing puller but you can drift them. Pulled the first one, removed the central spacer, removed the circlip, pulled the second one. Degrease the freehub, dry, lube pawls, press in is reverse of disassembly. Really straightforward.

 

[EME]

Thanks everyone for the advise especially @Mikerb and @DaveNewing ,I've replaced mine as well.

Also checked over by my LBS to make sure I hadn't lost the plot. My knowledge on bike bits' names is poor in English, so non-existent in other languages but I don't mind paying to have my work checked out as I enjoy the work itself.

Much easier than I thought, but couldn't do it without your advice on here -- nw all set up with new Cassette and all issues gone away with 'old' wheels set up with winter tyres. I went 11-speed as I couldn't get 12-speed parts from LBS and suited me to change as little as possible in any case as I upgrade and try new things slowly.

Thanks again.

 

[Ben Turbo]

I also have a problem with the hub, bearing totally gone. Less then 1500km... Brought the wheel to a specialized dealer 10 minutes from my house (not where i bought the bike (because it is a 2 hour trip) he wanted to replace both bearings but a spacer is missing. So this was not in there from day 1...
It is this spacer as seen in this video

So am i just unlucky?

The cost of a new body is around 40 euro so not a very big problem but no ride for me tomorrow