Same boat, have tried a couple times with a really small flathead, can't get the clip pried away enough to get another one behind it. I need to get a metal pick I guess
PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE
- Thread starter Rod B.
- Start date
I was able to get the c clip removed pretty easily with a metal pick tool. I couldn't get it behind the open section but I managed to pry it behind the clip on the opposite closed side where the clip was more exposed, slipped in a small screwdriver and pop out it came.
Still waiting on bearing tools to do the job, quick question for those that have done the lower pivot maintenance can the swingarm be moved out of the way to do the job without removing the tubes/brake line/shifter cable? I was hoping to press in new bearings there but looking at it not sure the swingarm is gonna move out of the way enough.
Still waiting on bearing tools to do the job, quick question for those that have done the lower pivot maintenance can the swingarm be moved out of the way to do the job without removing the tubes/brake line/shifter cable? I was hoping to press in new bearings there but looking at it not sure the swingarm is gonna move out of the way enough.
Got the pivot overhaul completed, new bearings throughout. The Bearing Pro tools are nice altho the bearing removal tools didn't work as advertised on the rear pivots and the bearings in the linkage arms. They clamp on to the inner bearing race and are tapped out bearing/tool together, I couldn't get the bearing to budge at these locations I had to mock up a setup with the bearing press tool and press them out using sockets. Worked fine tho no biggy
I got in a ride and the susp feels so smooth and is quiet now, I also feel like I was getting better traction. One of the rear pivot bearings was completely seized and I think that was making the susp feel harsh and maybe locking up on the smaller chatter type stuff
I got in a ride and the susp feels so smooth and is quiet now, I also feel like I was getting better traction. One of the rear pivot bearings was completely seized and I think that was making the susp feel harsh and maybe locking up on the smaller chatter type stuff
Is there a trick to getting the collet wedge out?This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article.
In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service" I discuss:
Preface:
- Upper linkage disassembly and reassembly.
- Pivot bearing inspection and type of Enduro bearings used on the Rise.
- How to remove a bearing seal, clean the bearing and re-lubricate the bearing.
- Bearing greases recommended by Enduro.
After you've been riding your Rise for awhile, you may notice your Rise has started to make a creaking noise while riding. The sound will sound similar to a creaking seat post or seat. You may also notice that the rear suspension may begin to feel stiff and not as plush as it used to be. You may question your shock/settings due to the stiffness in the suspension. In most circumstances, there is nothing wrong with your rear shock, the seat post or saddle rail clamp. The stiff suspension and or creaking noise may be attributed to a upper or lower pivot axle, linkage arms and or bearings in need of cleaning and lubrication.
Like many things on a bike, the pivot linkage needs the occasional bit of love. As a personal rule, I like to full service clean, inspect and lube the suspension linkage on my bikes every six months. I grease the upper and lower pivot axles every few months. This keeps noises to a minimum and the suspension functioning smoothly. You don't want to skip servicing the suspension linkage on your bike, it will make a good bit of difference in how your bike performs. Depending upon the frequency of your rides, distance covered, the riding climate and type of terrain your ride, you may only need to service your linkage once a year, or you may need to do it more frequently than every six months.
It’s important to keep in mind that the upper and lower pivot axles on the Rise do not have any seals or O rings which prevent water or dust from working its way into where the alloy axle contacts and rides upon the steel bearings. I’ve found that if the bike is exposed to frequent moisture or powdery dust, it will eventually wash out or dry up the pivot axle grease. Depending upon which axle runs dry of lubrication, it will start making a creaking noise caused by the alloy axle rubbing on the steel pivot bearing races. As I stated before, the noise will sound exactly the same as a seat post or saddle creaking. It’s also been my experience the upper pivot axle needs to be lubricated more frequently than the lower pivot axle.
View attachment 89869
To determine the condition of your rear suspension, place the bike in a bike stand. Remove the rear wheel. Wrap a soft rag around the front area your rear shock. Remove the shock's front mounting bolt. Lower the shock down so that it rests on the downtube. The rag will protect the paint.
With your hands, slowly raise and lower the rear triangle. With your ears listen for noise as you move the triangle up and down. There should be no grinding, grittiness, or squeaking noise. With your fingers, feel for resistance in the movement, any stiff spots, as you rotate the triangle. The movement should be smooth and easy. If you encounter noise and or, resistance, then your linkage needs service.
In most instances during disassembly and inspection, you will find the pivot bearings on your Rise will be fine. You will only need to clean and re-lubricate the exterior contact points where the bearing touches bolts, linkage arm and or the axle.
Occasionally, you will come across a pivot bearing that is frozen or stiff to spin. This may be because the bearing has flat spots, dirt has contaminated the bearing grease and or, water has worked past the bearing seal and rusted the steel bearing components. Stiff bearings will cause your Rise suspension to perform like an overinflated rear shock and your bike will track poorly on rough terrain.
If you encounter a frozen or hard to spin pivot bearing, you will need to determine why the bearing isn't functioning. To do this, remove the bearing's outer seal, fully clean the bearing, and inspect it for function. If after cleaning, the bearing spins freely without any bumpy or rough feeling, then all you will need to do is re-lubricate the bearing. If after cleaning the bearing does not spin easily, or exhibits a rough feeling, then the bearing will need to be replaced.
Enduro recommends the following greases for the bearings used on the Rise:
Grease and Lubricants
www.endurobearings.com
I do not cover replacing the pivot bearings in this tech series. While it's not too difficult to replace a pivot bearing, it does require some mechanical skill and a few specialized tools. If you don't know what you are doing, you can easily damage the frame where the bearing inserts, the paint, or the new bearing itself by improper installation. If you do not possess the mechanical skills or tools to replace a pivot bearing, I recommend taking your Rise to your local bike shop and have the bearings replaced.
Here are several good YouTube videos on servicing a pivot bearing and also the removal and replacement of pivot bearings should you wish to do the work yourself.
The Lower Main Pivot Assembly:
The lower main pivot axle bearing assembly consists of two Enduro bearings which are housed in the main frame. The two bearings differ in size. The left, non-drive side of the frame, uses is an Enduro 6803LLU Max BOSL (Black Oxide Coating) bearing. The right, drive side of the frame, uses an Enduro 6802LLU Max BOSL bearing.
Note: "LLU" refers to the seal design used on the bearing, which is a "Dual Lip" and "Full Contact" seal. This is one of the better designs at keeping contaminants out of the bearing. "Max" refers to the absence of an inner bearing retainer and allows room for the "Maximum" amount of bearings to be installed in the bearing. Refer to Part One in my series for further explanation on "LLU" and "Max" terminology.
The Lower Main Pivot Axle Assembly:
View attachment 80984
View attachment 80985
View attachment 80986
You have the option of removing the upper and lower linkage and allow the rear triangle to hang off the bike of the bike. Or, as I personally like to do, remove and replace the upper and lower pivot sections one at a time as separate procedures. Either way will work.
How the lower main pivot axle functions:
The Orbea Rise, Blue Paper diagram below details the lower pivot axle assembly and grease points. Also listed are the proper torque settings.
View attachment 80992
How it all works:
A split bronze bushing is inserted into the opening located on the left, "non-drive" chain stay. The lower pivot axle is threaded on one end and machined on the inside to accept an 8mm hex wrench. The axle is inserted through the bushing, the left chain stay, through the two frame pivot bearings and threaded into the right, drive side chain stay. A 8mm hex driver is used to tighten the axle to the correct torque setting.
The axle is prevented from backing out due to the split bushing and collet wedge. After the axle has been threaded into the chain stay, the collet wedge and collet wedge bolt are threaded into the end of the axle. As the collet wedge is tightened, it expands the head of the axle outward, which in turn expands the split bushing and locks the axle in place. Some mad engineering going on here.....
View attachment 80993
View attachment 80991
Lower Main Pivot Axle Service Procedure:
1. Place your Rise in a bike stand. Remove the rear wheel.
2. Wrap a rag around the front of the rear shock to cushion it. Remove the from shock mounting bolt. Lower the front of the shock until it rests on the downtube.
3. Using a hex driver, remove the collet bolt from the lower pivot axle. Remove the collet wedge from the axle.
4. On the left, non-drive side of the motor a black rubber routing tube which will hinder removal of the axle. The routing tube is used to route the rear brake hose from above the motor to the rear triangle. Clipped to the bottom of the routing tube is the small speed sensor wire coming from the rear triangle speed sensor to the motor.
Right and left routing tubes
View attachment 80994
In order to remove the axle, the left side routing tube will need to be folded slightly out of the way. Don't go crazy with the folding, you don't want to damage the brake hose. You want to fold it over just enough to be able to remove the axle.
The speed sensor wire is attached to the routing tube and held in place via small press fit rubber clamps molded into the bottom of the routing tube. Unclip the speed sensor wire from the clamps. Push excess brake hose from the rear caliper towards the routing tube in order to add slack in the brake hose at the routing tube. Pull up on the routing tube and out of it's mounting holes in the frame. Fold the routing tube slightly over and out of the way. Unthread the axle and remove it.
5. After removing the axle, you will see a split bushing located on the left (Non-Drive) side of the swing arm where the axle is inserted into the triangle. Remove the bushing.
6. With the axle removed, you can now lower or raise the rear triangle out of the way enough to inspect the lower pivot bearings. If the bearings spin easily and smoothly, you need only wipe the surface of the bearings to remove dirt and grime and place a small dab of grease on the inner part of the bearing where the axle will contact it.
If the bearings are rough or hard to spin, remove the rubber seal and clean the bearings. If after cleaning the bearings they still spin roughly or are hard to spin, you should replace the bearing(s). If the bearings spin freely after cleaning, repack the bearings with grease and reinstall the rubber seal with the correct side facing the ball bearings. Wipe excess grease from the bearing and bike frame using a towel.
5. Clean the lower pivot axle, all hardware, the triangle where the axle is threaded and where the bushing is inserted.
Lower pivot assembly installation
1. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of the lower pivot bearings races mounted in the frame.
2. Apply a light film grease to the inside of the split bushing. Insert the bushing into it's housing on the left side of the rear triangle.
3. Apply a small amount of grease to the the threaded end of the axle and the shoulders of the axle where the axle will ride on the frame pivot bearings.
4. Lift or lower the rear triangle into position so it lines up with the bearings. Fold the brake hose guide tube out of the way and Insert the lower pivot axle into the bushing and through the bearings. Thread the axle into the right, drive side rear triangle insert using an 8mm hex driver, torque the axle to 20 N.m.
5. Insert the black rubber routing hose back into the holes in the frame and reattach the speed sensor wire to the guide tube clamps. Pull the brake hose back out of the rear triangle and to it's original position at the rear caliper.
6. Insert the collet wedge into the axle. Apply a film of grease on the collet wedge bolt and thread into place. Tighten the collet bolt to 5 N.m. Orbea does not specify thread locker for the axle or collect wedge bolt.
7. Rotate the rear triangle up and down and insure it moves freely and smoothly and without any side to side play.
8. Cheers.....you've completed the lower pivot axle linkage.
Rear Seat Stay Bearings:
Two Enduro 6803LLU Max, black oxide pivot bearings are located at the end of the chain and seat stay triangle. The pivot bearings facilitate a slight pivot movement between the chain and seat stays at the rear triangle. They do not see a lot of movement, but are important in maintaining rear triangle stability.
They will occasionally need to be examined for play or lack of function, and lubricated.
View attachment 81014
I tried a pick, but mine seems stuck.
That's what I used one with a bend, make sure your fully behind the wedge there's a lip where the bolt head sits against that I thought was the back of the wedge and I couldn't get it to budge but once I got the pick fully behind it it popped out, it was stuck pretty good tho
I asked Rod this question but he no longer has his Rise, after I did the lower pivot I noticed something I wasn't sure was right but the split bushing protrudes about a 1/16" of an inch or so on the inner side of the chainstay bore, I didn't bother to look at it before I did the service so maybe that's normal? It pivots smoothly and it's stayed tight so I guess it's good, given the width of the bushing and head of the axle compared to the CS bore I don't see how it wouldn't protrude a little bit. There's no lip on the CS bore on the inner side and with the washer and o-ring in place on the other side of the axle head I think it's just pushing it out a little bit.
I asked Rod this question but he no longer has his Rise, after I did the lower pivot I noticed something I wasn't sure was right but the split bushing protrudes about a 1/16" of an inch or so on the inner side of the chainstay bore, I didn't bother to look at it before I did the service so maybe that's normal? It pivots smoothly and it's stayed tight so I guess it's good, given the width of the bushing and head of the axle compared to the CS bore I don't see how it wouldn't protrude a little bit. There's no lip on the CS bore on the inner side and with the washer and o-ring in place on the other side of the axle head I think it's just pushing it out a little bit.
Thank you for the response, I appreciate you, ended up getting frustrated and just ordering a new axle pivot assembly.
I’ve got the Orba wild, and I don’t have any exposed bushing.
Dubreak
Member
Just reviving this thread because it's got the most info about Orbea Rise bearings.
Looking to replace entire Orbea Rise 2022 H30 pivot bearings, maybe headset too. They're getting creaky and after a recent gentle hose wash (I don't jet wash my bikes, bad experiences before) I see there is rusty brown water washing out of the seat stay pivot area, eek. Is there a sticky to list part numbers? Or do I need to check the Blue Paper?
:edit:
Just ordered these:
I went to Orbea and signed in, my bike serial is registered so I found the part numbers easy enough.
Looking to replace entire Orbea Rise 2022 H30 pivot bearings, maybe headset too. They're getting creaky and after a recent gentle hose wash (I don't jet wash my bikes, bad experiences before) I see there is rusty brown water washing out of the seat stay pivot area, eek. Is there a sticky to list part numbers? Or do I need to check the Blue Paper?
:edit:
Just ordered these:
I went to Orbea and signed in, my bike serial is registered so I found the part numbers easy enough.
Last edited:
Rod B.
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #100
Dubreak,Just reviving this thread because it's got the most info about Orbea Rise bearings.
Looking to replace entire Orbea Rise 2022 H30 pivot bearings, maybe headset too. They're getting creaky and after a recent gentle hose wash (I don't jet wash my bikes, bad experiences before) I see there is rusty brown water washing out of the seat stay pivot area, eek. Is there a sticky to list part numbers? Or do I need to check the Blue Paper?
:edit:
Just ordered these:
I went to Orbea and signed in, my bike serial is registered so I found the part numbers easy enough.
Who doesn't love the plush feeling new grease and a new set of suspension bearings provides....nice!
Besides linkage arm slippage, one of the issues I found with the 2022 Rise pivot linkage is a lack of sealing in the area of the axles and bearings. The linakge bearings themselves have inner and outer dust seals, however there is nothing to prevent fine dust from migrating into the axle areas where the upper and lower axles contact the bearings. The dust eventually causes the grease to dry out. Additionally, if you wash your bike frequently or your bike is exposed to a lot of water, grease can be washed out from the bearings themselves and also the areas where the pivot axles make contact with the bearings.
If you're riding involves the bike being exposed to a lot of water or you wash your bike a lot, make sure the assembly grease you use is a "Marine Grade" grease that is water proof and corrosion resistant, has a high shear value and is impact resistant. Doing so will allow the grease to last and protect a bit longer.
If you have any questions about the bearing replacement process, send me a message.
Be safe,
Rod
Hi Guys, thank you for the great guide which I used today to replace all the bearing apart from the main bearings that the linkage axle runs through the frame. The dreaded creaking has stopped though!
I couldn’t figure out how to remove these two bearings even with the RRP extraction tool so any advice/tips would be great as even with a service and re-grease the drive side is a little rough.
I don’t know enough about this so I stopped myself from popping out individual bearings so I could collapse the bearing housing to take them out to replace!
I couldn’t figure out how to remove these two bearings even with the RRP extraction tool so any advice/tips would be great as even with a service and re-grease the drive side is a little rough.
I don’t know enough about this so I stopped myself from popping out individual bearings so I could collapse the bearing housing to take them out to replace!
Rod B.
E*POWAH Master
- Thread starter
- #102
MMc2K25,
I'm happy the tech articles helped you out. Make sure you use an excellent quality marine rated grease on the inner bearings races upon which both the lower and upper axles ride upon. I mention marine grease because they tend to be waterproof and less prone to wash out. You want the grease to have a high shear load and resistance to squeeze out from impacts. Essentially you're trying to prolong the time until you have to disassemble the linkage axles again due to creaking. To do this, you need a grease that's sticks like glue and won't wash away, i.e. Marine Grade Grease.
The axle bearings depicted in diagrams "A" and B" are a snug fit inside their frame bores. They take a bit of effort to drive them out of their bores. To remove the bearings, you'll need to use a long brass drift punch of about 10 or 12 inches in length. I suggest using a brass punch because there is less chance of the bearing splintering like shrapnel which could happen if you hit the bearing with a hardened steel punch.
Brass Drift Punches in various diameters as found of Amazon
Important Note: Brass drift punches come in various lengths and diameters. Please make sure that the brass drift punch you purchase has a small enough diameter to fit through the hole of the axle bearing.
To remove the four upper and lower axle bearings, you will insert the brass punch through the hole on one of the bearings, either side is okay. Place the punch tip against the backside of the other bearing and give the punch a solid "Healthy" hit with a hammer. It will take a bit of force to drive the bearings out of their bores. Because you are replacing the bearings, it does not matter if you damage the bearings while driving them out of their bores.
This is important: When driving the bearings out of their bores with the punch, you want to avoid cocking the bearings sideways in the bore. A cocked bearing can damage the bore. It's a simple process to avoid cocking the bearing. Simply rotate the punch. Place the bearing at 12:00 O'Clock and hit, then 6:00 O'Clock and hit, then 9:00 O'Clock and hit and lastly 3:00 O'Clock and hit. Keep rotating the punch as your drive the bearing out.
Your best chance at success when re-installing new bearings is to purchase a bicycle bearing press kit. You'll find them available on Amazon. The kit comes with a length of all thread, two handles, and matched sets of various sized bearing drivers.
To use the press, you lightly tap the right and left bearings into their bores so that they are started. Make sure the bearings are square and true to the bore. Slide the all thread through both bearings. Place matching bearing drivers on each side. Make sure each drive is large enough to make contact with the outer bearing race, but small enough not to make contact with the frame. Thread the press handles onto each side of the all thread. Slowly begin tightening the handles and watch the drivers as they press the bearings into their bores. Pay careful attention to each bearing as it is being pressed into tt's respective bore. If you see a bearing begin to cock sideways, remove the press tool and using a brass punch, square the bearing so that it is true to the bore.
Important Note: Bearings can be easily damaged. Never install a bearing by driving it into the bore using just the inner bearing race. If you do so, this will dent the ball bearings, likely damage the rubber dust seal and destroy the bearing. Always install a bearing by pressing against the outer bearing race.
I hope this helps,
Be safe,
Rod
You could try a socket extender and use Rod's technique to knock em out, I bought the Bearing Pro Tools set and it has extractors that press on to the inner race of the bearing then you tap em out from the other side tool and bearing together. It worked well for those bearings but I had to rig up a male/female socket setup with the bearing press to get some of the others out.
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