Official Merida eOne-Sixty thread

Really like the new wheels.
I'm also a fan of the look of the Bomber CR coil, too. How's it been, compared to the original air shock?
I like it. I'm no expert and never a big jumper so 4 foot drop-offs max but I think it feels smoother. I had to go through a few springs though. Started with a 400lb, then 350, 325 and finally I'm running a 275. I only weigh 150lbs with backpack. I find that tyre pressures make a huge difference to the feel and tend to run 12-15psi front (2.4"-2.6")and 15-20 rear with 2.8". I think the longer shock that gives me 175mm rear travel takes out some more of the sting on landings and rock gardens.
 
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I like it. I'm no expert and never a big jumper so 4 foot drop-offs max but I think it feels smoother. I had to go through a few springs though. Started with a 400lb, then 350, 325 and finally I'm running a 275. I only weigh 150lbs with backpack. I find that tyre pressures make a huge difference to the feel and tend to run 12-15psi front (2.4"-2.6")and 15-20 rear with 2.8". I think the longer shock that gives me 175mm rear travel takes out some more of the sting on landings and rock gardens.
I’ve got the same bike and went with a progressive coil over the normal coil. Rides a lot nicer.
 
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Turns out, I had hit the rear mudguard with my bum on impact while either jumping or descending and instead of tyre buzz, I forced the guard to contact the tyre and it split the guard.
The sound I was experiencing was the split mudguard flapping about when there was sufficient impact.

Took it off and I haven't had an issue since.
Except for mud and small stones being pressed into your shorts when your bum hits the tyre! :oops:
 
Does anyone have a 2021 model (or thereabouts) type Merida Expert CC saddle they don't want? It's the type that came with the little tool thingy underneath. Apologies if this should be posted somewhere else.
 
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I'm currently planning for long term maintenance, and in that regard, I'm wondering if anyone ever upgraded their EP8 motor to the EP801 on the older model years. (If mine ever breaks, I'd like to go with the newer one.)

I know that it'll involve a new battery, so that's that. Simplo has a 2nd gen version of their 750Wh battery. I'm mostly just wondering, if it has the same dimensions.
 
Hi. I ride 2022 e160 775 which has 750w battery from Simplo. I have a problem with power on switch now.

The ep8 motor has turned off and on itself while riding for 2 weeks. Today it never turned on while riding.

I almost ride every weekend but never charge the main battery on the bike and store the battery on a desk in my room.

When I came back home without assistance, I tried to turn the pedal backward so hard using wrench on the chainring.

While I'm doing that the monitor turned on and according to the speed of pedaling the letters looked more clearly.

The monitor showed some striped line sometimes and not a perfect image of letters and figures these days.

However, the monitor shut off right after I stop the pedaling backward.

I heard the battery in the power on switch is charged while riding and I did ride regularly 5 hours a day twice a week.

Then shouldn't my switch battery go flat? or should be replaced after 3~4 years use even if used regularly?

Is this because I didn't charge the battery on the bike? or will there be any electric wire issue for the switch to be charged while riding?

Can I get some help? I couldn't go to the local shop because it's on holiday for 10 days...
 
The power-on switch has a little rechargeable battery inside. I dont know why your main battery did not recharge it, but it sometimes happens.
You need to be able to access the hard power button on the actual battery and get that to turn on which will then power on the on/off switch. There should be a grommet in the frame that gives access to the power-on switch in the battery. Dont know about Simplo but the original Shimano battery should have that switch.
And then over the next couple days keep turning the bike on which in turn keeps recharging the little battery inside of the on/off switch.
 
The power-on switch has a little rechargeable battery inside. I dont know why your main battery did not recharge it, but it sometimes happens.
You need to be able to access the hard power button on the actual battery and get that to turn on which will then power on the on/off switch. There should be a grommet in the frame that gives access to the power-on switch in the battery. Dont know about Simplo but the original Shimano battery should have that switch.
And then over the next couple days keep turning the bike on which in turn keeps recharging the little battery inside of the on/off switch.
The simplo battery has power button which can be reached by - screw driver and I pressed it.. and then the monitor turned on and off... I think the switch battery is completely gone and without the switch battery the bike has no power.
 
The simplo battery has power button which can be reached by - screw driver and I pressed it.. and then the monitor turned on and off... I think the switch battery is completely gone and without the switch battery the bike has no power.
Try charging with the main battery in the bike. That should do it.
 
Try charging with the main battery in the bike. That should do it.
I was trying to do what you told me to do and before I attach the charger I pressed the power button and it turned on. But as I said the monitor is a little bit strange. And I can't be sure if it will be ok going riding.

KakaoTalk_20251008_191503536.jpg KakaoTalk_20251008_191503536_01.jpg
 
Try charging the battery (use original Shimano, if you still have it) in the bike. Leave it a while to charge the power-on switch battery. That's all I can say.
 
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Try charging the battery (use original Shimano, if you still have it) in the bike. Leave it a while to charge the power-on switch battery. That's all I can say.
I don't know it's ok if I leave it to be charged after 100% main battery because it's already 91%. Anyway, thank you.
 
@Greg Watts mentioned me today in one of his posts and drew my attention to the switch on the battery and how to find it. Here is a pic I took later, showing the battery next to the downtube so that you can see exacly where it is and where the rubber plug is that will enable access to the switch, with an Allen key or small screwdriver....
Battery on-off switch.webp
 
@Greg Watts mentioned me today in one of his posts and drew my attention to the switch on the battery and how to find it. Here is a pic I took later, showing the battery next to the downtube so that you can see exacly where it is and where the rubber plug is that will enable access to the switch, wi...
That's a proper close-up of the switch location, Steve - good on you for actually taking the photo rather than just describing it in words for the next poor sod who searches this thread.

For anyone following along: the battery is a Shimano BT-E8036, 36V 17.5Ah, 630Wh - that's the standard EP8-generation pack fitted across a lot of the older eOne-Sixty range. What Steve's photo shows nicely is the rubber grommet sat just above the connector housing, near the downtube - that's the access point to the hard power-reset switch inside the battery, the one @kla456 mentioned earlier in this thread as the fix for a battery that won't wake up or charge properly. You pop that plug with a small Allen key or flat screwdriver and there's a recessed button underneath.

Worth flagging for anyone with an EP8/EP801 bike hunting for this: it's not a diagnostic tool for "motor won't turn on" faults generally, it's specifically for when the battery's own internal management system has gone to sleep or lost its charge state and needs a hard reset - which is exactly the scenario in the older posts in this thread. If the main pack is fully charged and the bike still won't wake up, that button is the first cheap thing to try before assuming the connector or motor itself is at fault.

 
@Greg Watts mentioned me today in one of his posts and drew my attention to the switch on the battery and how to find it. Here is a pic I took later, showing the battery next to the downtube so that you can see exacly where it is and where the rubber plug is that will enable access to the switch, with an Allen key or small screwdriver....
View attachment 188873
Hello Steve, how are you getting on with search for Merida replacement? I've had two Merida 160s. First was bequeathed and second I boxed and brought to Spain in January to Andalusia. Its back in the garage dismantled in its bike box (bike suitcase) waiting to go out again in Autumn/Winter. I replaced the Merida with an Amflow PL, an amazing motor but I prefer riding the Merida - weight is much the same.
 
Yes, the dealer offered it to me today with a 50% discount due to a stock clearance.

I'm not very familiar with Merida bikes, but the components on the bike are excellent.

Here the Link to the Bike

 
Yes, the dealer offered it to me today with a 50% discount due to a stock clearance.

I'm not very familiar with Merida bikes, but the components on the bike are excellent.

Here the Link to the Bike

Yes, I know that bike. Its a great bike and a great deal, but emtb tech has moved on.
Maybe you should compare it with a 2027 bike? This one for example:

 
Thanks for the link.
The bike sounds great, but I don't need such a powerful motor since I do a lot of the riding under my own power.
I realize the Shimano EP801 isn't the latest model,
but it would certainly be more than enough for my needs.
The rest of the Merida 10K would still be state-of-the-art and serve me well for years to come.
 
Hey guys

Is the Merida Eone Sixty 10k a good deal for 5400 euros?
Yes it's a good bike at that price.

Pros:
170/170 travel Enduro.
Light weight
Amazing spec for price.

Cons:
SRAM transmission means no connection to Shimano Motor, thus no Coastshift or Autoshift, that you would get with Shimano Di2 derailleur.
Shimano EP801 only has 600 peak watts and 85Nm. That is very low for a full power Enduro these days.

Summary:
It's an amazing bike for the price. But it is not an amazing bike compared to other 2026 Enduros. It's just missing the peak power and integrated transmission.

So it comes down to how advanced a rider you are. If you are really trying to advance your riding. A 2026 Avinox powered enduro with integrated electronic transmission will climb trails this bike will not. But if you are just looking for a gravity beast with shuttling ability. The Merida is perfect.

And lastly. I owned a 2025 Merida E160 alongside a 2026 Avinox powered enduro. It's chalk and cheese in performance. But the Avinox Enduro will be double the price. And the Shimano Motor has no serviceability. Replacement only. Whilst the Avinox motor has a service manual and servicing parts available.
 
Thanks a lot for your detailed reply.

I don't ride technical climbs; I just charge down the trails.
My current Levo has a 500Wh battery, and I manage 1,400 meters of elevation gain and 52 km without any issues.
I’ve capped my Brose motor at 20/20, and I’d naturally do the same with the EP801.

Putting in the hard work to get up the mountain, then having a blast riding the trail down through the woods.

I agree—there are newer motors out there, as well as ones that are better in terms of maintenance.
But for my purposes, the bike's overall spec would be fantastic.
 
Hello Steve, how are you getting on with search for Merida replacement? I've had two Merida 160s. First was bequeathed and second I boxed and brought to Spain in January to Andalusia. Its back in the garage dismantled in its bike box (bike suitcase) waiting to go out again in Autumn/Winter. I replaced the Merida with an Amflow PL, an amazing motor but I prefer riding the Merida - weight is much the same.
I bought an ex-demo (270 miles) Santa Cruz Vala 90. It came with a Kiox 400c display, full framewrap, new chain, cassette, pads, saddle, grips. Mint condition. £6000 instead of £7800. They also carried out the latest Bosch updates, so I have 750W and 120Nm. I aslo bought a Bosck PowerMore 250 range extender and cable at a discount. (Not used it yet).

The bike is slightly shorter than the Merida and a little bit taller, but that suits me because I was considering raising the bars on the Merida. I absolutely love the Vala! :love: Because of the geometry differences, I was concerned that I may need an XL, but an acquaintance of mine let me borrow his Large for 3 hours. I didn't like his AXS shfting (not one bit!), but after the ride, I had zero doubts that the Large was right for me. The Vala weighs 21.2kg and that is with my grips, pedals and saddle that are heavier than stock.

Despite having more power and torque available than with the Merida, I am getting more miles out of the battery than I had expected. All good so far. Currently riding with a spare rear wheel from my local SC dealer. Becasue of a failure with the e13 hub and Sram cassette (there is a debate over whose fault it is).
 
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Thanks a lot for your detailed reply.

I don't ride technical climbs; I just charge down the trails.
My current Levo has a 500Wh battery, and I manage 1,400 meters of elevation gain and 52 km without any issues.
I’ve capped my Brose motor at 20/20, and I’d naturally do the same with the EP801.

Putting in the hard work to get up the mountain, then having a blast riding the trail down through the woods.

I agree—there are newer motors out there, as well as ones that are better in terms of maintenance.
But for my purposes, the bike's overall spec would be fantastic.
Have no fears about the reliability of the Shimano motor. I've had two so far and had each for years and never had a problem. I carry my bike on the back of my car so it is exposed to all the usual British weather. My EP8 was 5 years old and had done almost 3900 miles. I sent it for a service and all they did was clean it and renew the grease! My grandson is now ragging the arse off it.
 
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I’m going to head to the dealer tomorrow and buy it.
Specialized is out of the running for me; my Levo Comp is oxidizing at every opening in the aluminum frame, and there’s no warranty coverage—even though the frame doesn't have a single mark on it.
 
I’m going to head to the dealer tomorrow and buy it.
Specialized is out of the running for me; my Levo Comp is oxidizing at every opening in the aluminum frame, and there’s no warranty coverage—even though the frame doesn't have a single mark on it.
Just to chip in here (let to the party).
I have the previous model e160 with a Shimano motor and the only thing I'd say you may notice that can be slightly annoying (to some) is the motor rattle.
Rough descents can illicit a lot of rattle from the EP6 and EP801, but if I am honest, I don't really mind.
I've ridden a few different motor systems on rentals and while this is the only eBike I've ever owned, I don't feel like the Shimano holds me back in any meaningful way - I'm not a technical climber or a multi-hour-marathon rider, so three hours on my e160 in Trail mode suits me just fine.
I do love that 10k model - it's a sweet rig, but the 600 battery might just about be as small as you'd ever want to go, unless riding a true SL eMTB.
 
Is it possible to switch the chainring from 36 to 32 teeth using a spider?
I did the same thing on my Levo.
However, the smallest direct-mount chainring I can find is a 34-tooth one.
 
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