Norco Range VLT Gen 4 2026

[chasmoftheclam]

@chasmoftheclam

As far as those 27.5 x 3.0 Wrathchilds... what clearances do you have in the rear to the seat/chain stays and where is it closest?

I seem to have ~10mm clearance around the chainstays (each side and top of tire). It’s harder to tell at the seat stays as I have a mudguard fitted, but it appears to be similar or maybe 1-2mm more clearance.

 

[Healy]

Really like the Norcos but they seem to be a very rare beast in the UK. Anyone know a dealer in UK of any note?

Pedals syndicate in the forest of dean

 

[Healy]

go straight to the importer?

https://www.silverfish-uk.com/brands/norco.html

I have a 2023 Norco Range VLT C1 and if the other / newer Vlt bikes are anywhere as good I'd happliy buy another (although I don't need another bike currently )

Just posted my 2024 on pinkbike dude

 

[chasmoftheclam]

A few photos of the Range in winter mode. Studded tires and pogies make this a capable winter ride. Trail speed is slower typically, but there is still fun to be had on untracked steeper trails that aren’t groomed

 

[chasmoftheclam]

Link to a short Youtube video I made of the Norco Range VLT
Norco Range VLT 2026 First Look

 

[peep]

Reposting from the Sight forum because I just learned about this one. Here is my size S4 C1, which I picked up mid-January.

Made the following mods:
•Hayes 220 rotor in front
•Moved Shimano 203 front rotor to back
•Kiox 400c display
•Super Deluxe Ultimate coil shock
•PNW carbon 38mm riser bars
•Maxxis Assegai 2.5 in front
•3M glossy vinyl wrap over top tube (I believe the all white top tube makes her look more proportional.
•Powermore range extender (we have huge vert out the door)

I am 6’ 0” 210 lbs, and the reach on the S4 is a nonissue for me. Spring rate on the coil is 500 lbs.

 

[chasmoftheclam]

Reposting from the Sight forum because I just learned about this one. Here is my size S4 C1, which I picked up mid-January.

Made the following mods:
•Hayes 220 rotor in front
•Moved Shimano 203 front rotor to back
•Kiox 400c display
•Super Deluxe Ultimate coil shock
•PNW carbon 38mm riser bars
•Maxxis Assegai 2.5 in front
•3M glossy vinyl wrap over top tube (I believe the all white top tube makes her look more proportional.
•Powermore range extender (we have huge vert out the door)

I am 6’ 0” 210 lbs, and the reach on the S4 is a nonissue for me. Spring rate on the coil is 500 lbs.

View attachment 178722

View attachment 178723

View attachment 178724

View attachment 178725

That build and colour way looks
Did you try the bike with the X2 air shock or move straight to the coil? Are you planning to use the Powermore on all rides? I have the RE too, but I’m expecting to bring it out for bigger missions only.

 

[peep]

That build and colour way looks
Did you try the bike with the X2 air shock or move straight to the coil? Are you planning to use the Powermore on all rides? I have the RE too, but I’m expecting to bring it out for bigger missions only.

Thanks! Rode both x2 and coil, but prefer the plushness of the coil. Will keep the x2 to use situationally (and as backup). I am not a small man but can get 6000+ vertical feet without the range extender (on emtb setting), so RE will be reserved for big days and big-ish days where for whatever reason I need to rely on turbo. I am in Ashland, OR where there is up to 5700 of climbing in 16 miles from my front door.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Finally here, C2 build... was between this and C3 Sight. Preferred the colorway on the Range and I planned on going with a 38/ZEB regardless of build. Honestly, would have ended up with a "Range" regardless.

Humble brag, this has been the easiest RideWrap install I've done to date and I've done probably 7-8 at this point. Between the larger cross-section frame members and lack of super weird bends/crevices definitely help. Only gotcha was around the linkage (film sections on top and seat tube), which required unbolting the shock and swinging it forward to allow moving the rear triangle (up/down) to adhere the film around the linkage.

Also it seems they've increased the gap slightly between pieces. I recall years ago, you had to almost install a few pieces in a row to make sure they were aligned near perfect, so they wouldn't interfere with one another.

 

[chasmoftheclam]

Welcome to the club and happy NBD!
Did you do a full custom ridewrap or an essentials type? I had the essentials installed and have added helitape in a few discrete locations to bolster the minimal essentials wrap.
Do you have any changes planned for the components?
I just had the Bosch cable installed to turn the wireless GX AXS derailleur into a wired version straight off the main 800Wh battery. This means there's one less battery to remember to charge!
No more changes planned for my Range currently. Just praying for warmer weather and dry trails!

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Welcome to the club and happy NBD!
Did you do a full custom ridewrap or an essentials type? I had the essentials installed and have added helitape in a few discrete locations to bolster the minimal essentials wrap.
Do you have any changes planned for the components?
I just had the Bosch cable installed to turn the wireless GX AXS derailleur into a wired version straight off the main 800Wh battery. This means there's one less battery to remember to charge!
No more changes planned for my Range currently. Just praying for warmer weather and dry trails!

I could write an essay on my RideWrap experience lmao... for me, brand new bike = tailored (custom cut) kit. $125 USD for a very nice kit that covers your entire frame. A drop in the bucket in the scheme of things to keep the bike looking sharp, for a bit at least.

However, I've been burned on bikes (w/ carbon frames) which have cracked in short order. Pissing away the time and money spent. For example, I'm on my 4th Pivot Firebird frame in 3 years and redoing the film each time got annoying, not to mention fully rebuilding the bike. One of those frames came right before a trip to BC (shore/squamish/whistler) and
I didn't have time to wrap it. Didn't take long before the glossy finish was so scuffed and looking like crap, but that frame cracked fairly quickly (like 2 months). So on my current Firebird I just went with the RW covered kit. Pivot warranty has been really good and I don't plan on selling it. Based on our rocky terrain, my riding and crashing... especially the longer travel bikes, they just take a beating and look it after a season or two.

On my prior eMTB (SCOR), I also applied a tailored RW kit... only for the rear triangle to crack in 6 rides! SCOR could only provide an entire replacement frame. Once again, transferring everything over sucked having to deal with all the "E" parts on top of it. Then the warranty frame cracked in the same spot a few rides later. Yea, I'm traumatized...

The tailored kit is custom-cut, covers more and is more expensive. The covered kit is the opposite, generic cuts, less coverage and lower cost. However, I've found that to "fit" the covered kit to my liking... I spend time placing, marking, cutting the pieces. Doesn't save any time and the finished product isn't as "good" in terms of coverage and look.

I've also used AMS honeycomb film in some higher-impact areas in the past, but it didn't seem to make a big difference in terms of protection. Drop, slide or lay the bike into rocks and you'll likely have some degree of paint and/or frame damage. With a new bike, it just feels right to keep it looking newer for as long as possible.

Save the upgrades for a part II...

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

As I get my bike ready, I've been impressed with the build quality of the frame and the various details on it. The cable management is really nice with the external port covers and full internal tube routing. Even the little funnel detail between the front and rear triangles. There's a ton of protection around the frame, from the rock guard between the triangles, to the motor guard which fully wraps around the frame attachment in the rear. I've damaged a frame in that very spot. Even the burly chainstay guard. On every bike, they eventually start to unglue and pull away from the frame.

Now the not so good...

• Not properly torqued hardware, included the front rotor bolts and lower shock bolt.
• Tubeless tape on front rim cut (both layers) to far at valve stem (beyond the rubber stem seal).
• Rear rim runout terrible at 2.6 mm of lateral and 0.7 mm of radial. Even the spoke tensions weren't that uniform.
• All metal UDH
• TRP Slate Evo brakes on C2 build come with resin pads.
• 180 mm rear rotor
• Water bottle fitment

Check your hardware. Last bike from same retailer (JensonUSA) and things were not properly torqued as well. Last time it was the cassette. However it felt like every bolt loosened very quickly on that bike.

The wheel set on the C2 build is lackluster... Bear Pawls hubs with 24T engagement and WTB ST i30 rims, which from a JKW video may indicate their WTB "light" spec (vs. tough), more XC/light trail rims. He promptly flat spotted one after casing a jump. The rear rim I touched up on the trueing stand as it was gross. I've punished some alloy sets and they've had less run-out. On the front rim, I replace a section of the tubeless tape to prevent leaks.



All metal UDH is interesting. I've broken a few when smashing derailleurs. I suspect the frame will be fine, but I hope it doesn't cause more damage to the RD. Easier and cheaper to replace the UDH.

Resin pads... why? Spec sintered pads.

180 mm rear rotor... same, why? Spec a 200/203 mm.

Water bottle fitment is limiting. Why did they choose to put the mounting bosses so high up on the down tube. Easily could have been lower. A 22 oz purist bottle fits fine with a Specialized Zee cage. I'd like to run the 26 oz bottle, but it doesn't really "fit" and adding a OneUp EDC pump/mount will make things worse. I've ordered a couple Blackburn side load cages with longer slots, hoping to slide the bottle further down.



I'll edit this if I find any more things during the "build"...

 

[enato]

Wolftooth and Aliexpress have bottle mount offsets that allow you to shift the bottle back or forth a decent amount.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Wolftooth and Aliexpress have bottle mount offsets that allow you to shift the bottle back or forth a decent amount.

Next step if these Blackburn side loading cages can't be positioned low enough.

 

[peep]

Water bottle fitment is limiting. Why did they choose to put the mounting bosses so high up on the down tube. Easily could have been lower. A 22 oz purist bottle fits fine with a Specialized Zee cage. I'd like to run the 26 oz bottle, but it doesn't really "fit" and adding a OneUp EDC pump/mount will make things worse. I've ordered a couple Blackburn side load cages with longer slots, hoping to slide the bottle further down.

View attachment 179016

I'll edit this if I find any more things during the "build"...

Bottle mount has to be where it is to accommodate range extender.

 

[Blownoutrides]

I could write an essay on my RideWrap experience lmao... for me, brand new bike = tailored (custom cut) kit. $125 USD for a very nice kit that covers your entire frame. A drop in the bucket in the scheme of things to keep the bike looking sharp, for a bit at least.

However, I've been burned on bikes (w/ carbon frames) which have cracked in short order. Pissing away the time and money spent. For example, I'm on my 4th Pivot Firebird frame in 3 years and redoing the film each time got annoying, not to mention fully rebuilding the bike. One of those frames came right before a trip to BC (shore/squamish/whistler) and
I didn't have time to wrap it. Didn't take long before the glossy finish was so scuffed and looking like crap, but that frame cracked fairly quickly (like 2 months). So on my current Firebird I just went with the RW covered kit. Pivot warranty has been really good and I don't plan on selling it. Based on our rocky terrain, my riding and crashing... especially the longer travel bikes, they just take a beating and look it after a season or two.

On my prior eMTB (SCOR), I also applied a tailored RW kit... only for the rear triangle to crack in 6 rides! SCOR could only provide an entire replacement frame. Once again, transferring everything over sucked having to deal with all the "E" parts on top of it. Then the warranty frame cracked in the same spot a few rides later. Yea, I'm traumatized...

The tailored kit is custom-cut, covers more and is more expensive. The covered kit is the opposite, generic cuts, less coverage and lower cost. However, I've found that to "fit" the covered kit to my liking... I spend time placing, marking, cutting the pieces. Doesn't save any time and the finished product isn't as "good" in terms of coverage and look.

I've also used AMS honeycomb film in some higher-impact areas in the past, but it didn't seem to make a big difference in terms of protection. Drop, slide or lay the bike into rocks and you'll likely have some degree of paint and/or frame damage. With a new bike, it just feels right to keep it looking newer for as long as possible.

Save the upgrades for a part II...

Recently stress tested the frame casing a 30 footer (250lbs geared up). Hope that lends some confidence to your ridewrap time investment lol

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Bottle mount has to be where it is to accommodate range extender.

I didn't think about that and when looking at my S3, there's plenty of clearance to shock reservoir (Vivid). With the pump mounted under the top tube, what size bottle are you running OR do you just run the extender full time?

Checked Bosch, the PowerMore dimensions: 7.9 x 3.5 x 3.0 in which is very close to the 22 oz purist bottle. The PM being a touch wider at 3.5 in, but length and height are near spot on.

I wear a hip pack (Lab Austere) for extras, but its certainly nice to have a OneUP EDC in the stem, pump with CO2 + extras and bottle on frame for most missions.

 

[peep]

I didn't think about that and when looking at my S3, there's plenty of clearance to shock reservoir (Vivid). With the pump mounted under the top tube, what size bottle are you running OR do you just run the extender full time?

Checked Bosch, the PowerMore dimensions: 7.9 x 3.5 x 3.0 in which is very close to the 22 oz purist bottle. The PM being a touch wider at 3.5 in, but length and height are near spot on.

I wear a hip pack (Lab Austere) for extras, but its certainly nice to have a OneUP EDC in the stem, pump with CO2 + extras and bottle on frame for most missions.

Normally I run a 22 oz bottle on my s4. I run the PowerMore on big days (5500’ +) and wear an Evoc Hip Pack Pro 3 w/ 1.5L bladder.

 

[friendo]

here's my further impressions after a month of ownership. getting out about once per week and have now had it on some of the higher speed rowdy trails as weather slowly improves: i'm not sure where bikes and suspension goes from here. i don't know if it's the RS stuff, (has to be to a large degree) or the overall design and itrack rear end but it is better than anything i've ever ridden by some margin. at low speeds, it's great, but so are most modern bikes. at high speeds it's something else. i don't know how to explain it, but it's the most comfortable, confidence inspiring, stable thing i've been on the faster i go. it begs to push harder and test my limits.

the overall size of the bike, which is a bit bigger than my previous eeb, and the better pedal clearance and bb, make it a better climber as well. cockpit is a bit roomier and taller. the bike neither feels or rides large for me, just perfect.

i use only the middle 2 settings of the motor, finding either eco or turbo to be impractical. level 3 is good on roads, double track or wide open climbs, but not so much on single track, which is where i use the blue tour mode. i tried bumping up the 'assistance' and 'dynamic' to +2 out of curiosity, and after a few rides, went back down to 0 or neutral. i find this better for technical climbing as most of our trails are covered in slippery roots and rocks and this mode feels like a 1:1 ratio and more natural, easier to maintain rear wheel traction. anything extra is just a bit harder to control. i didn't play around with any motor settings on my Giant but the Bosch is quite different. it feels like it's thinking an sensing all the time, and i've read that's exactly what it does and sometimes i just want the most neutral, natural feeling like it's all my legs, just from 20 years ago.... so a bit of experimentation. the app is also so much better and easy to change, compared to before.

trying to find any faults and i'm struggling.... the only thing stock is the TRP slate brakes (though i have 220/200 rotors) and while they are pretty good with good feel, of course i'm curious about the some of the super powerful options. there's some trails not currently rideable that have much longer descents where i might want for easier gobs of power, but so far these are fine. i may look at the new Hopes or Hayes options when i hit those trails in spring.

i have no idea how this bike compares to bikes costing 5 grand+ more, such as the Yeti and SC Bullit, which i'm sure are also amazing, but i couldn't be more impressed with this rig at this point.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

here's my further impressions after a month of ownership. getting out about once per week and have now had it on some of the higher speed rowdy trails as weather slowly improves: i'm not sure where bikes and suspension goes from here. i don't know if it's the RS stuff, (has to be to a large degree) or the overall design and itrack rear end but it is better than anything i've ever ridden by some margin. at low speeds, it's great, but so are most modern bikes. at high speeds it's something else. i don't know how to explain it, but it's the most comfortable, confidence inspiring, stable thing i've been on the faster i go. it begs to push harder and test my limits.

the overall size of the bike, which is a bit bigger than my previous eeb, and the better pedal clearance and bb, make it a better climber as well. cockpit is a bit roomier and taller. the bike neither feels or rides large for me, just perfect.

i use only the middle 2 settings of the motor, finding either eco or turbo to be impractical. level 3 is good on roads, double track or wide open climbs, but not so much on single track, which is where i use the blue tour mode. i tried bumping up the 'assistance' and 'dynamic' to +2 out of curiosity, and after a few rides, went back down to 0 or neutral. i find this better for technical climbing as most of our trails are covered in slippery roots and rocks and this mode feels like a 1:1 ratio and more natural, easier to maintain rear wheel traction. anything extra is just a bit harder to control. i didn't play around with any motor settings on my Giant but the Bosch is quite different. it feels like it's thinking an sensing all the time, and i've read that's exactly what it does and sometimes i just want the most neutral, natural feeling like it's all my legs, just from 20 years ago.... so a bit of experimentation. the app is also so much better and easy to change, compared to before.

trying to find any faults and i'm struggling.... the only thing stock is the TRP slate brakes (though i have 220/200 rotors) and while they are pretty good with good feel, of course i'm curious about the some of the super powerful options. there's some trails not currently rideable that have much longer descents where i might want for easier gobs of power, but so far these are fine. i may look at the new Hopes or Hayes options when i hit those trails in spring.

i have no idea how this bike compares to bikes costing 5 grand+ more, such as the Yeti and SC Bullit, which i'm sure are also amazing, but i couldn't be more impressed with this rig at this point.

Are you running the stock organic/blue pads? I was thinking of ditching the TRPs and putting on a set of base Mavens I bought for this exact purpose and never got around to installing them on my prior eMTB.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Spoke too soon on the cable management... swapping out the stock TRPs for base Mavens and here's where I'm at:

The rear brake hose didn't want to pull through the guides and kept getting caught up. So I dropped the motor and that was easy, but it didn't help the situation. Proceeded to remove the battery and that proved to be a bigger challenge. The three plastic tubes/guides make pushing the battery out very difficult as it's really crammed in the down tube and the exit of the down tube requires the guides to be straighter out towards where the motor would be versus turning up towards the seat tube.

Even with the motor and battery removed the brake hose faught me to the end. At one end the guide tube had a bit of a kink and at the other I'm not sure. The derailleur and dropper housings slide very easy, but their also smaller in diameter and have a smoother/plastic finish on the exterior. Whereas the TRP hose is a bit more rubbery and obviously a touch larger in diameter.

Pro Tip: add some silicone grease to the brake hose when you install to help your future self.

Another Tip: the system controller cable is supposed to have foam tubing around it (to keep it from rattling) and mine did NOT. Good thing I had some laying around from prior build.

What else... put a Tannus pro insert in the rear and new DH tires on the stock (C2 build) rims. Confirmed with WTB the i30 rims are a "light" duty OE-only spec similar to the KOM light, which is available aftermarket. I could tell when manipulating the DH tires on that the rim was quite flexy.

I wanted to pull the freehub on the Bear Pawls hub and check the condition of the grease.... forget it. These hubs are not very serviceable for something as simple as cleaning and re-greasing the freehub mechanism. First you need two 17 mm cone wrench to remove the axle. Then to remove the freehub, the outer bearing in it has to be knocked out and a 14 or 16 mm allen key is required to unthread the freehub from the hub. Obviously I stopped after removing the axle and put it back together in disgust. I was already looking at some potential wheel sets. I've run NOBL TR37 and WAO Triads on my analog bikes. These new HUNT v3 carbon enduro wheels peaked my interest after a recent review by NIC ADV.

The Blackburn clutch water bottle cage... dang, almost worked perfectly. Its not quite a side-entry and so putting the bottle in or taking it out isn't ideal. It really hits the top tube and needs to be mashed into place. So I ordered a Wolftooth B-RAD rail and hopefully I can use my Specialized Zee cage.

 

[Bigly JC]

Spoke too soon on the cable management... swapping out the stock TRPs for base Mavens and here's where I'm at:

View attachment 179298

The rear brake hose didn't want to pull through the guides and kept getting caught up. So I dropped the motor and that was easy, but it didn't help the situation. Proceeded to remove the battery and that proved to be a bigger challenge. The three plastic tubes/guides make pushing the battery out very difficult as it's really crammed in the down tube and the exit of the down tube requires the guides to be straighter out towards where the motor would be versus turning up towards the seat tube.

Even with the motor and battery removed the brake hose faught me to the end. At one end the guide tube had a bit of a kink and at the other I'm not sure. The derailleur and dropper housings slide very easy, but their also smaller in diameter and have a smoother/plastic finish on the exterior. Whereas the TRP hose is a bit more rubbery and obviously a touch larger in diameter.

Pro Tip: add some silicone grease to the brake hose when you install to help your future self.

Another Tip: the system controller cable is supposed to have foam tubing around it (to keep it from rattling) and mine did NOT. Good thing I had some laying around from prior build.

What else... put a Tannus pro insert in the rear and new DH tires on the stock (C2 build) rims. Confirmed with WTB the i30 rims are a "light" duty OE-only spec similar to the KOM light, which is available aftermarket. I could tell when manipulating the DH tires on that the rim was quite flexy.

I wanted to pull the freehub on the Bear Pawls hub and check the condition of the grease.... forget it. These hubs are not very serviceable for something as simple as cleaning and re-greasing the freehub mechanism. First you need two 17 mm cone wrench to remove the axle. Then to remove the freehub, the outer bearing in it has to be knocked out and a 14 or 16 mm allen key is required to unthread the freehub from the hub. Obviously I stopped after removing the axle and put it back together in disgust. I was already looking at some potential wheel sets. I've run NOBL TR37 and WAO Triads on my analog bikes. These new HUNT v3 carbon enduro wheels peaked my interest after a recent review by NIC ADV.

The Blackburn clutch water bottle cage... dang, almost worked perfectly. Its not quite a side-entry and so putting the bottle in or taking it out isn't ideal. It really hits the top tube and needs to be mashed into place. So I ordered a Wolftooth B-RAD rail and hopefully I can use my Specialized Zee cage.

View attachment 179300

Is it possible to use the slate hose? Haven't checked on inner diameter but I plan to run Mavens if I end up getting a Range.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Is it possible to use the slate hose? Haven't checked on inner diameter but I plan to run Mavens if I end up getting a Range.

Well the TRP Slates use a banjo at the caliper end, so it'd have to be non-base Mavens. Not sure how universal those banjos are... I know folks do the Shigura setup but that mingling occurs at the lever end. Magura hose and Shimano olive/barb into Shimano lever body.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

First ride over the weekend... stoked. Still needs tweaking.

Made the following mods:

• RideWrap tailored kit
• Trail1 Hell's Gate grips
• OneUp 180 v2 dropper & Ergon SM Pro saddle
• Wolftooth Pro Remote dropper lever
• Shimano XT Shifter
• Base Mavens & 200 HS2 F/R
• Wolftooth B-Rad WB Cage Rail
• Wolftooth Waveform pedals (or Shimano XT trail)
• Shimano Deore RD "downgrade" (save XT for analog bike lmao)
• VEE Attack HPL DH Full40/ FSX GXE Full40 (F/R)
• Tannus Pro Insert (R)

I am 5'9" 190 lbs, and the cockpit/reach on the S3 is very akin to my medium Firebird. I will probably drop to a 35 mm stem and 35 mm rise OneUp carbon bars.

As far as upgrades, already mentioned the bar & stem. Probably a new wheel set and likely carbon, as I appreciate the lack of maintenance associated with them. A damper upgrade would be nice, fork is easy to drop in a charger 3.1. The shock would require service, so maybe save that for next season. 160 pedals seem fine for now, maybe 155s.

The Kiox would be a splurge I don't really need. Though, I've been thinking of alternates to my Wahoo and I don't care for the stem mount. I've been using top tube mounts (76 Projects) on other bikes, but that won't work with the stock controller/display location.

How is the GPS recording/routing on the Kiox? I don't like using my phone to record as it drains the battery. Strava recording via my iwatch is fine, though I don't find it as accurate as my Wahoo. The biggest thing is riding a new place and having routes planned ahead to follow them. I HATE pulling out my phone every intersection to find myself.

 

[chasmoftheclam]

Any feedback on paint quality or paint chipping easily on their frame? I’ve heard feedback that the paint on Range’s and Sight’s has quality issues.

 

[Healy]

Got
Mine now and love it

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Any feedback on paint quality or paint chipping easily on their frame? I’ve heard feedback that the paint on Range’s and Sight’s has quality issues.

I got two big chips on my NDS chain stay... first one is right in the middle, on the lower edge. Not sure how it happened, as I didn't drop the bike yet at this point. Maybe a rock flew up... I've certainly had them kick up and smack my pedal/crank at times. On my SB120, somehow a rock punched a small hole right under the BB. Just behind the factory skidplate and I even have a OneUp bash guard installed. And that's taken its fair share of hits.

Second one is at the rear stay pivot/axle when I dropped the bike onto a rock and it took a big chunk of paint off...

I'll take some pictures, but par for the course on our rocky terrain I suppose. RideWrap doesn't really help, like I said in the past, for direct impacts above a certain level... anything more than pebbles being pelted at the frame.

As far as quality... it "looks" good, no better or worse than bikes I've had from Yeti, Pivot and IBIS.

 

[chasmoftheclam]

I got two big chips on my NDS chain stay... first one is right in the middle, on the lower edge. Not sure how it happened, as I didn't drop the bike yet at this point. Maybe a rock flew up... I've certainly had them kick up and smack my pedal/crank at times. On my SB120, somehow a rock punched a small hole right under the BB. Just behind the factory skidplate and I even have a OneUp bash guard installed. And that's taken its fair share of hits.

Second one is at the rear stay pivot/axle when I dropped the bike onto a rock and it took a big chunk of paint off...

I'll take some pictures, but par for the course on our rocky terrain I suppose. RideWrap doesn't really help, like I said in the past, for direct impacts above a certain level... anything more than pebbles being pelted at the frame.

As far as quality... it "looks" good, no better or worse than bikes I've had from Yeti, Pivot and IBIS.

Agree that the paint “looks” good and appears to be similar quality to other brands. I have just heard that it appears to be an issue on the range/sight and Norco is aware of it.

Also agree that the ride wrap is good for limiting scuffs etc, but bigger impacts will damage the paint/frame. I ride wrapped mine mostly for resale and am aware that they are machines that should be ridden, not babied.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Agree that the paint “looks” good and appears to be similar quality to other brands. I have just heard that it appears to be an issue on the range/sight and Norco is aware of it.

Also agree that the ride wrap is good for limiting scuffs etc, but bigger impacts will damage the paint/frame. I ride wrapped mine mostly for resale and am aware that they are machines that should be ridden, not babied.

What issues are you hearing specifically? Like the paint is chipping too easily, paint finish, color, etc... as in implying the frame wasn't prepped correctly, paint not adhering well, paint itself not great quality..

 

[peep]

Any feedback on paint quality or paint chipping easily on their frame? I’ve heard feedback that the paint on Range’s and Sight’s has quality issues.

309 miles on my C1 with no ride wrap or other frame protection, and I see no indication the paint is unusually or unacceptably delicate.