New to E-MTB Having problems with rail 7 gen 3

MT2SS

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Hi all, my wife and I are new to E-MTB bikes and just recently purchased 2023 Rail 7 Gen 3 bikes with Shimano Deore M6100, 10-51, 12 speed cassette's. We ride both trails, roads, and the beach and have been riding between 10-30 miles a day when we can. When we first got the bikes I rarely used the electric assist except when absolutely necessary. After putting somewhere in the range of 275 miles my bike on the smallest gear (10 tooth) was starting to skip so much it sounded like a pop gun going pop, pop, pop rapidly and not giving much pull. The next gear up was doing the same thing but nowhere near as bad. My wifes bike was also starting to do so a little on the smallest gear. Neither of us knew that it was recommended to shift to the larger gears when coming to a stop so that it would be easier on the bike when we start off and to make sure we shift regularly through gears. We also both prefer more resistance when pedaling and the ability to go faster when on the road or parts of trails where the easy gears are not required. That being said we took our bikes to the trek store and they told us we couldnt spend as much time in one gear and that we needed to start on the larger gear. After repairing both of our bikes and replacing the two smallest gears we started riding and making sure that we were shifting and using the full range of gears and minimal assist. We also were only using the smallest gears once we had gotten to speeds the larger gear could not easily keep up with ( basically maintaining a higher cruise speed with almost no load). After 40 miles the chain started slipping on the lowest gear yet again. I now have 125 miles on the new gears and it slips more and I have barely even used the smallest gear after what the tech at the store said. We also have been making sure to not shift under load and we always make a point to shift to the larger gears like they instructed to prevent starting on the smallest gear putting it under high load and torque.

How is it even possible to wear a gear out that fast? ( I know people are going to question or not believe how I said we are riding but I can assure you I have given a complete description of how we ride and the care we have been taking to do exactly what we have been told)

It makes little sense to me considering I have never worn out a gear on an MTB before and I always used the smallest gears especially when starting because I wanted high torque and power and to go fast. This being said I would understand a little more if I was using the motor due to the higher torque it would put on the gears but I have barely used it and when I do I have mainly used the lowest two settings but for the most part I have left it off. There is no way I create that much torque to destroy the gears that quick.

After reading some other post on this forum I have decided to temporarily change the chainring to a 38t from 34 so that I get more pull on the larger gears where more chain can spread any torque across more teeth at once. I plan to change the cassette and shifter later to a linkglide 11 speed cassette because from what I can tell they are supposed to be able to handle more torque and seem to be better quality to me.

I would love to hear some suggestions and thoughts. Are these shimano deore 12 speed cassettes poor quality? the gears definitely seem to be subpar material.
 
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Hi MT2SS

I think it’s unlikely that the cogs or chain is worn out (few miles).

It sounds like the shifter cable needs some more adjustment.

The cables don’t stretch …they relax in place. Another barrel adjustment may be necessary. If the High And Low and B screw are setup properly …the derailer cable may need a bit more …usually with the barrel adjustment (1/4 turn at a time).

Usually a bike mechanic at your local Bike Shop can do this in minutes if you’re unsure.

Btw, a cadence of 80 (crank rpm) is a safe place to be regardless of what gear you’re in.
 
Hi MT2SS

I think it’s unlikely that the cogs or chain is worn out (few miles).

It sounds like the shifter cable needs some more adjustment.

The cables don’t stretch …they relax in place. Another barrel adjustment may be necessary. If the High And Low and B screw are setup properly …the derailer cable may need a bit more …usually with the barrel adjustment (1/4 turn at a time).

Usually a bike mechanic at your local Bike Shop can do this in minutes if you’re unsure.

Btw, a cadence of 80 (crank rpm) is a safe place to be regardless of what gear you’re in.
Well this really makes me question the knowledge of the techs at the trek store as they looked at the bike and said the gears were worn out and needed replaced which they did and it is doing the same thing again so that tells me they either arnt very knowledgeable and missed that a cable needed adjustment in which case I wouldnt want to take it to them to adjust or it was truly the gears. Now the question is how do i determine which it is?
 
Yeah, it does seem strange. It seems like too little mileage for extreme wear and tear. (Unless you’re smashing through the gears while under load at a low cadence).

Constant chain slippage on the cassette could cause premature wear …but that could be from a poor initial setup.

Derailer hanger bent? Frozen chain link? Wrong chain? Post some pics or a video.
 
I have taken several bikes to my local Bike Shop (Trek) for the initial setup. I later do some fine tuning myself after 50+ miles once things settle in or relax in place.

My new SRAM transmission was an exception though. None of the mechanics knew how to set this up. It took 5 of us at the bike shop to figure out the procedure. T-type AXS 12 speed derailer. Amazing shifting after that.
 
I have taken several bikes to my local Bike Shop (Trek) for the initial setup. I later do some fine tuning myself after 50+ miles once things settle in or relax in place.

My new SRAM transmission was an exception though. None of the mechanics knew how to set this up. It took 5 of us at the bike shop to figure out the procedure. T-type AXS 12 speed derailer. Amazing shifting after that.

Yeah, it does seem strange. It seems like too little mileage for extreme wear and tear. (Unless you’re smashing through the gears while under load at a low cadence).

Constant chain slippage on the cassette could cause premature wear …but that could be from a poor initial setup.

Derailer hanger bent? Frozen chain link? Wrong chain? Post some pics or a video.
I will try and get some pics of the derailer tomorrow and the cassette. The chain does not have a frozen ling and the derailer is not bent either. I definitely plan to really start learning everything I can about our bikes and I plan on doing my own maintenance and I want to customize the bikes a bit for us and make what improvements I can. Part of why I joined this forum is to learn from others and be able to get some good advice on good products and where to buy them.
 
I will try and get some pics of the derailer tomorrow and the cassette. The chain does not have a frozen ling and the derailer is not bent either. I definitely plan to really start learning everything I can about our bikes and I plan on doing my own maintenance and I want to customize the bikes a bit for us and make what improvements I can. Part of why I joined this forum is to learn from others and be able to get some good advice on good products and where to buy them.
Hopefully, if you can post a few pics, some of the members here may have some ideas.
 
Hopefully, if you can post a few pics, some of the members here may have some ideas.
What is your opinion on changing the chain ring from a 34t to a 38t to put the chain up on a bigger gear allowing the torque to be spread across more teeth? I prefer speed and resistance from the bike when pedaling. Also do you have an opinion on the linkglide 11 speed vs the deore 12 speed?
 
What is your opinion on changing the chain ring from a 34t to a 38t to put the chain up on a bigger gear allowing the torque to be spread across more teeth? I prefer speed and resistance from the bike when pedaling. Also do you have an opinion on the linkglide 11 speed vs the deore 12 speed?
When you install a slightly larger chainring, you may get clearance issues from the lower chain stay …but it is possible. I’m happy with a 34t ethirteen chainring. I did experience some chain alignment issues with the new 34t ethirteen chainring. I had to remove the brass “O” ring but left the plastic “O” ring, and greased that area accordingly. I also removed the plastic chain-guard …not needed imo.

Regarding the cassette size; I need, want, use all 12 gears. I use 8100 Shimano chain and try to keep my cadence around 80.

I also use a hybrid AXS/Sram/Simano transmission ( works great). But the new T-type sram AXS transmission is awesome.
 
When you install a slightly larger chainring, you may get clearance issues from the lower chain stay …but it is possible. I’m happy with a 34t ethirteen chainring. I did experience some chain alignment issues with the new 34t ethirteen chainring. I had to remove the brass “O” ring but left the plastic “O” ring, and greased that area accordingly. I also removed the plastic chain-guard …not needed imo.

Regarding the cassette size; I need, want, use all 12 gears. I use 8100 Shimano chain and try to keep my cadence around 80.

I also use a hybrid AXS/Sram/Simano transmission ( works great). But the new T-type sram AXS transmission is aw
I just talked to trek corporate and oddly enough they told me the same stuff about shifting gears and starting in the lower gear (bigger cog) and about the torque and how it can start to degrade the cog and chain. The same associate also said that his advice is to treat it and ride it as if it was not an ebike. I told him that was the problem to start with that we did just that and destroyed the cogs the first time. I did ask about his opinion on switching to the linkglide 11 speed and he confirmed that it is able to handle more torque and while not necessary would require less maintenance and servicing in the long run which is good news if we do switch. Trek decided to replace the cassettes and chains for both of our bikes and are working with our local trek dealer to get this done for us which we are greatful for but definitely looking at upgrading in the future.
 
What is your opinion on changing the chain ring from a 34t to a 38t to put the chain up on a bigger gear allowing the torque to be spread across more teeth? I prefer speed and resistance from the bike when pedaling. Also do you have an opinion on the linkglide 11 speed vs the deore 12 speed?
Per Trek the max chainring is 34t, but I have used a 36t by placing a 1mm spacer (trek part# 5314732) behind the chainring, and shims behind the chainguide bolts. Check your chainring to see if it is 52mm chainline (printed on chainring). There was a Trek service bulletin (Nov 2023) about issues with shimano drivetrains and dropped chains.
I have installed 11 speed on my Rail bikes for the past five years so I can run different sized cassettes. To convert to Linkglide you will need an HG freehub for the Bontrager rapid drive hub in addition to the shifter, derailleur, cassette and chain.
 
Hi all, my wife and I are new to E-MTB bikes and just recently purchased 2023 Rail 7 Gen 3 bikes with Shimano Deore M6100, 10-51, 12 speed cassette's. We ride both trails, roads, and the beach and have been riding between 10-30 miles a day when we can. When we first got the bikes I rarely used the electric assist except when absolutely necessary. After putting somewhere in the range of 275 miles my bike on the smallest gear (10 tooth) was starting to skip so much it sounded like a pop gun going pop, pop, pop rapidly and not giving much pull. The next gear up was doing the same thing but nowhere near as bad. My wifes bike was also starting to do so a little on the smallest gear. Neither of us knew that it was recommended to shift to the larger gears when coming to a stop so that it would be easier on the bike when we start off and to make sure we shift regularly through gears. We also both prefer more resistance when pedaling and the ability to go faster when on the road or parts of trails where the easy gears are not required. That being said we took our bikes to the trek store and they told us we couldnt spend as much time in one gear and that we needed to start on the larger gear. After repairing both of our bikes and replacing the two smallest gears we started riding and making sure that we were shifting and using the full range of gears and minimal assist. We also were only using the smallest gears once we had gotten to speeds the larger gear could not easily keep up with ( basically maintaining a higher cruise speed with almost no load). After 40 miles the chain started slipping on the lowest gear yet again. I now have 125 miles on the new gears and it slips more and I have barely even used the smallest gear after what the tech at the store said. We also have been making sure to not shift under load and we always make a point to shift to the larger gears like they instructed to prevent starting on the smallest gear putting it under high load and torque.

How is it even possible to wear a gear out that fast? ( I know people are going to question or not believe how I said we are riding but I can assure you I have given a complete description of how we ride and the care we have been taking to do exactly what we have been told)

It makes little sense to me considering I have never worn out a gear on an MTB before and I always used the smallest gears especially when starting because I wanted high torque and power and to go fast. This being said I would understand a little more if I was using the motor due to the higher torque it would put on the gears but I have barely used it and when I do I have mainly used the lowest two settings but for the most part I have left it off. There is no way I create that much torque to destroy the gears that quick.

After reading some other post on this forum I have decided to temporarily change the chainring to a 38t from 34 so that I get more pull on the larger gears where more chain can spread any torque across more teeth at once. I plan to change the cassette and shifter later to a linkglide 11 speed cassette because from what I can tell they are supposed to be able to handle more torque and seem to be better quality to me.

I would love to hear some suggestions and thoughts. Are these shimano deore 12 speed cassettes poor quality? the gears definitely seem to be subpar material.
Did they also replace the chain? They work hand-in-hand and a worn chain will speed up wearing out the cassette cogs. As others said, the shop techs are suspect and may have missed this.
 
When using the smallest chainring it with a lot of support it wears fast, i also switched from 34t to 38t and need to replace the smallest chainrings rather quickly, it also helps to use a high quality chain, i use sram
 
Hi all, my wife and I are new to E-MTB bikes and just recently purchased 2023 Rail 7 Gen 3 bikes with Shimano Deore M6100, 10-51, 12 speed cassette's. We ride both trails, roads, and the beach
Sand can destroy stuff really quickly.
 
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