Magura MDR-P rotors

[Philly G]

Hi everyone ! I'm looking closely at the Magura MDR-P 220mm rotors. I have Hope E4 brakes, but the Magura rotors are a bit cheaper and easier to get hold of at present (I'm in NZ). One concern I have come across in reading reviews is that play can develop in the outer ring , as in this video
A few people have had this happen, has anyone on here experienced anything like that with these rotors? Seems like quite a clever design otherwise

 

[Billybopsbasher]

Not used them, like you I'd considered some as they seem easy to get in 220mm flavour but after watching that I think I'll look elsewhere. That can't be good surely? Even allowing for thermal expansion, that seems like a hefty gap.

 

[Philly G]

That can't be good surely? Even allowing for thermal expansion, that seems like a hefty gap.

To be fair, many people seem to be very happy with them, but this issue pops up enough to make me think twice. Here's another example

 

[Billybopsbasher]

Yeah.. Not for me.
I'm using shimano 4pots otherwise I'd opt for some trp 2.3mm wide rotors. Think I'll wait for shimano's 220mm offerings to become more widely available.
In your situation I'd be looking at the standard steel hope rotors in 220mm.(that is, like you say.. If you can get them)

 

[urastus]

That's up and down movement - is that a problem? It may even solve the warping problem that must be amplified with larger diameter rotors.

 

[Philly G]

That's up and down movement - is that a problem?

Well I should think it would move when you brake wouldn't it? Not very confidence-inspiring

 

[urastus]

Well I should think it would move when you brake wouldn't it? Not very confidence-inspiring

I don't know - I imagine (well, it would make sense) that lateral movement is very minimal because width expansion would be negligible, so just enough lateral clearance for movement. Those jigsaw type slots show space for forward and back movement, but we don't know what the bolts are doing. There may be no movement forward or back, although back movement is the only one that matters for braking. Going by that video it looks as though the movement is limited to up and down - but I don't know that. My questions would be 1. any movement of the rotor backwards? 2. any significant lateral movement of the rotor? I'm not an engineer, but I'd expect it would be just up and down, if my theory is correct.

OK, just looked at the 2nd video - the dude shows that the rivet or some rivets have come loose; so more lateral movement than intended.

 

[Philly G]

My questions would be 1. any movement of the rotor backwards? 2. any significant lateral movement of the rotor? I'm not an engineer, but I'd expect it would be just up and down, if my theory is correct.

The 2nd video definitely shows what I would call significant lateral movement, he's wiggling it side to side quite a bit of movement there. The design is supposed to allow for heat expansion it's not supposed to actually move. As I said a lot of people have no issues and love these rotors but some have also had this issue...no way of knowing how many, but it does make me think twice about buying these, even though they look sick and I appreciate the theory behind the design

 

[urastus]

The 2nd video definitely shows what I would call significant lateral movement, he's wiggling it side to side quite a bit of movement there. The design is supposed to allow for heat expansion it's not supposed to actually move. As I said a lot of people have no issues and love these rotors but some have also had this issue...no way of knowing how many, but it does make me think twice about buying these, even though they look sick and I appreciate the theory behind the design

Yes, you're right; I wouldn't buy them. I imagine that they will make a change in materials used or the design. I too like the theory of the design.

 

[MrSimmo]

Ive been running 220/203mm MDR-P’s on my Levo for months now in DH/Enduro/XC/rain/sun/dry/wet without any overheating or warping or noises. I’m using the MT5/7 calipers (theyre the same) and sintered pads

 

[Pyr0]

I've got the 203's on my Levo. I run them with Shimano calipers. Just checked the pair on this wheelset and they seem fine so far...

 

[StuE]

Hi everyone ! I'm looking closely at the Magura MDR-P 220mm rotors. I have Hope E4 brakes, but the Magura rotors are a bit cheaper and easier to get hold of at present (I'm in NZ). One concern I have come across in reading reviews is that play can develop in the outer ring , as in this video
A few people have had this happen, has anyone on here experienced anything like that with these rotors? Seems like quite a clever design otherwise

I've had that with an Hope rotor

 

[Shjay]

I have the 220 front 203 rear on my Rise, I have the gaps like above but not checked to see if any sideways movement, had them on the E-Sommet before!

 

[Philly G]

I've had that with an Hope rotor

Have you? I guess with the semi-floating riveted designs there will always be the odd one that develops play...I am sure the vast majority of riders have no issue with their Hopes or Maguras...I guess it comes down to how well a company stands by the warranty if any issue arises

 

[StuE]

Have you? I guess with the semi-floating riveted designs there will always be the odd one that develops play...I am sure the vast majority of riders have no issue with their Hopes or Maguras...I guess it comes down to how well a company stands by the warranty if any issue arises

I have a few Hope rotors and it's the only one to develop any movement

 

[millemille]

They appear to be fully floating discs and are identical to motorbike fully floating discs in terms of design and resultant movement between the carrier and the rotor. So long as there is no significant axial movement between the carrier and the rotor then there's no issue.

 

[cappuccino34]

They're supposed to do that.

 

[cappuccino34]

'floating' discs are made to allow expansion of the friction area due to heat without causing the 'cold' centre (or 'bell') part to 'pull' it distorted. If held tight they can become 'wavy' causing pad knock-back. They are absolutely standard fit on racing cars, bikes and aircraft, but their benefit on a pedal bike is less pronounced because they don't run nearly as hot and the centre part is usually very flimsy with curved or angled radial spokes to reduce distortion.

 

[Cris]

I use these rotors and I swear by them, mine have had a small amount of play develop but only when they’re close to needing replacement, it never affects the function and doesn’t bother me, as I’ve had more play on new motorcycle discs that are stopping twice the weight from 10 x the speed

 

[Nvigr8]

These came on my 2020 Cannondale Habit Neo along Maura brakes. I used them for several months. 220 fr 200 r. These were my impressions in no particular order.

1. Excellent stopping power.
2. Look really cool.
3. Fairly quiet.
4. There is rotational play but that's built-in and doesn't negatively affect performance.
5. There is a very small amount of lateral play which also doesn't affect performance.
6. Built in hole for the sensor magnet is neat.

I did stop using them mainly because that rotational play is annoying to me. Upon stopping, it feels like something in the fork or headset has too much play in it and that just bothered me. I like a more solid feel. Plus I don't do a lot of riding that would produce enough heat for the design to be useful. Replaced with Sram rotors then brakes. In fact I'll sell them if anyone is interested.

 

[Shane(NZ)]

I have a hope 225mm which is quite worn now so have replaced with another hope but 220mm this time. When new they are quite but do rattle once they have been through several heat cycles. The rattle is when brakes not applied, touch the lever just a little and noise goes away. I think all floating rotors make noise after same use.
I have a system weight of 135kg+ brakes get worked pretty hard but not had either of the hopes go blue. I'm keen to try the MRD-P see how they go.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

I had these and they developed significant movement. The noise was really irritating. I wouldn't buy again. In the end I got some Galfer rotors which work as you'd expect.

 

[Pyr0]

Still no issues with my 203's when dry, but they did get extremely noisy in the wet a couple of weeks ago with significant loss in stopping power.
They still feel solid though with no movement.
I've rescuffed them with some wet and dry and cleaned everythng with isopropyl and just hope they work better next time its wet

 

[Shane(NZ)]

I had these and they developed significant movement. The noise was really irritating. I wouldn't buy again. In the end I got some Galfer rotors which work as you'd expect.

Lol...I all but pulled the trigger on the Galfer rotors 2 days ago, read a few had warping problems and one mag review had a squealing noise after a few months of use.
You have the Galfer Wave 2.0mm one?
They are a well priced rotor

 

[localone]

I had these and they developed significant movement. The noise was really irritating. I wouldn't buy again. In the end I got some Galfer rotors which work as you'd expect.

Very irritating? I need to replace my rear 203mm Galfer Rotor with 2mm in 3500km now is 1.5mm thickness.

I do not want same Galfer. If Magura is not a good option, Wich Would I buy? If is Centerlock better because my Wild use CL.

Trickstuff? Maybe TRP 2.3mm fit in my Saint Brakes?

Thanks.

PD: I don`t want Ice Tech.

 

[AdmChr]

Very irritating? I need to replace my rear 203mm Galfer Rotor with 2mm in 3500km now is 1.5mm thickness.

I do not want same Galfer. If Magura is not a good option, Wich Would I buy? If is Centerlock better because my Wild use CL.

Trickstuff? Maybe TRP 2.3mm fit in my Saint Brakes?

Thanks.

PD: I don`t want Ice Tech.

Same issue for me, I bought a pair of the Magura MDR-P rotors and initially, I thought they were great. So I bought two more sets for my other bikes. After only a few miles, they are started to rattle like hell. Drove me crazy so I replaced them all with TRP R1 2.3mm 1 piece rotors. While I don't have a ton of mileage on them yet, they are silent and most importantly have stayed completely true (straight). The TRP R1 2.3mm fit my Saints on my DH bike and my Kenevo, also fit XTR on my Kenevo SL. But I like the bite point to be as close as possible.

 

[localone]

Same issue for me, I bought a pair of the Magura MDR-P rotors and initially, I thought they were great. So I bought two more sets for my other bikes. After only a few miles, they are started to rattle like hell. Drove me crazy so I replaced them all with TRP R1 2.3mm 1 piece rotors. While I don't have a ton of mileage on them yet, they are silent and most importantly have stayed completely true (straight). The TRP R1 2.3mm fit my Saints on my DH bike and my Kenevo, also fit XTR on my Kenevo SL. But I like the bite point to be as close as possible.

Thanks, I think I will go for the Magura MDR C CL wich is 2mm .

2.3mm TRP is too much expensive for only one year of use in my case.

 

[MrSimmo]

I've just started seeing the same from my MDR-P's (220/200) unforutunately. Braking performance hasn't been impacted but the two parts now have play between them and rattle. Plus if you hold the brake on you can get the rotors to move independently which isn't great.

There's plenty of life left in them so not urgent but I'll be looking at an alternative brand for rotors. Maybe TRP/Galfer.

 

[cozzy]

I checked mine yesterday. Both 220mm, 5 months old. The back disk is solid, no play. The front one clacks around with noticeable play in the mounts as per the videos.
I haven't noticed it whilst braking yet but it's not ideal.

 

[Just get out there!]

I wonder if they could be tightened with some sort of rivet tool. I'll have to look more closely at mine, but so far they are all still tight. Are there aircraft mechanics or sheet metal fabricators out there who know if there's a way to tighten the existing rivets (or replace them with new ones)?