Loose cassette (fixed)

[Maxb]

My cassette keeps coming loose on my E160 I tighten it to 40 nm then it’s loose within 30 min. Obviously something is wrong I’m not sure what? Does anyone know if there should be a spacer on the free hub body that sits behind the cassette?

Cheers Max

 

[Bear-uk]

Why don't you try a washer and see if it works?
Some freehubs have a very thin washer that the cassette buts up too.
On a weekend away a mate had just had a new wheel fitted by a local shop and the cassette wobbled when tightened. So I bodged it with some fence wire which was all I could find.
It's still working 2 years later
You could cut a plastic milk bottle up and make a washer from that too try

 

[irie]

Exactly which cassette is it, might been incorrectly assembled to start with?

 

[Maxb]

It’s a sram nx cassette. My E150 didn’t have a spacer but I think that was a formula hub and I this is a joytec.

That’s a good idea on making a spacer I will try that.

Max

 

[irie]

If this is your cassette (NX Eagle PG-1230 12 speed) then could be a misplaced or missing spacer ...

 

[Mike james]

Had same with my E160 took it to my bike shop and they fitted a 1mm shim perfect ever since
Think it was a sram part

 

[Evelhornet]

My cassette keeps coming loose on my E160 I tighten it to 40 nm then it’s loose within 30 min. Obviously something is wrong I’m not sure what? Does anyone know if there should be a spacer on the free hub body that sits behind the cassette?

Cheers Max

The Sram Eagle NX (PG1230) doesn't come with a spacer to go behind it on the freehub - I've changed several on my bike. But the freehub definately has a thin plastic washer that is usually fitted from new,which stops the cassette sitting too tight to it. Without the washer, you're probably running out of thread on the cassette locking, hence it not staying on tight.

 

[Maxb]

The Sram Eagle NX (PG1230) doesn't come with a spacer to go behind it on the freehub - I've changed several on my bike. But the freehub definately has a thin plastic washer that is usually fitted from new,which stops the cassette sitting too tight to it. Without the washer, you're probably running out of thread on the cassette locking, hence it not staying on tight.

Interesting mine definitely does not have that plastic washer I have ordered a set of thin shims for it I’m hoping that will solve the issue.

Thanks

 

[Maxb]

Thanks for the reply’s .

I seem to have resolved the problem I put a 1mm spacer between the cassette and the hub it needed a slight tweak on indexing and the cassette is nice and solI’d after a 20mile test ride

 

[Ark]

I replaced my pg1230 cassette the other week.
I think there was a metal washer on before the cassette.
When I tightened to 40nm it didnt seem tight enough as the bolt was still kinda easy to turn., I did 45 instead, it felt like a washer or something "slipped" or flattened into place properly with the extra torque. so maybe it caused my torque wrench to ping to soon.

no issues so far in 30miles

 

[ottoshape]

When I tightened to 40nm it didnt seem tight enough as the bolt was still kinda easy to turn., I did 45 instead

@Ark Torque specs are set to not exceed the strength of the materials used in the threads of the assembly. More torque can strip the threads and too much torque can weaken the connection.

 

[Ark]

@Ark Torque specs are set to not exceed the strength of the materials used in the threads of the assembly. More torque can strip the threads and too much torque can weaken the connection.

theres a rubber washer felt like it was getting stuck and then slipping and giving false torque readings.
the one I took off from thew factory was pretty squashed and they are one-use so assume it;s normal.
I know what roughly 40nm feels like in resistance and that wasn;'t it

 

[GrumpyMTB]

Sorry to piggyback on this thread, but I've got a similar problem with my E180-S and play in the SRAM 12-spd cassette. I don't have side to side play however, I have rotational play forwards and back. The freehub body looks fine, no visible damage, and the teeth on the insides of each cassette sprocket also look ok. It makes a really annoying rattle noise on whichever set of sprockets the chain isn't on. Is this just terrible manufacturing tolerances, have I just been unlucky getting a sloppy cassette/freehub body? Anyone else have this?

 

[Bear-uk]

Sorry to piggyback on this thread, but I've got a similar problem with my E180-S and play in the SRAM 12-spd cassette. I don't have side to side play however, I have rotational play forwards and back. The freehub body looks fine, no visible damage, and the teeth on the insides of each cassette sprocket also look ok. It makes a really annoying rattle noise on whichever set of sprockets the chain isn't on. Is this just terrible manufacturing tolerances, have I just been unlucky getting a sloppy cassette/freehub body? Anyone else have this?

You might have a broken pawl inside the freehub.

 

[Evelhornet]

I've changed many of these cassettes on several bikes over the years, most movements is usually down to either worn splines, missing spacers or not tightening the cassette nut enough. As above, it's worth checking no broken components or play in the freehub 1st.

 

[steve_sordy]

Sorry to piggyback on this thread, but I've got a similar problem with my E180-S and play in the SRAM 12-spd cassette. I don't have side to side play however, I have rotational play forwards and back. The freehub body looks fine, no visible damage, and the teeth on the insides of each cassette sprocket also look ok. It makes a really annoying rattle noise on whichever set of sprockets the chain isn't on. Is this just terrible manufacturing tolerances, have I just been unlucky getting a sloppy cassette/freehub body? Anyone else have this?

I had a similar fault. On my Shimano XT cassette, the gears were in groups that were rivetted together. The rivets on one cluster had failed allowing the gears to move relative to one another. That was a warranty claim, paid without question once they saw the pics.

Sram cassettes may be made in a similar way; worth checking?

 

[GrumpyMTB]

Thanks guys, it's I think it's just a shit HG driver on the Whyte/Formula freehub. Pretty sure it's not the pawls, as the bigger sprockets that are riveted together rotate forward/back independently from the smaller ones which are separate. I've checked the cassette and can't see any issues and tightened up the lock nut to 40Nm and used loctite, still the same. Unfortunately, I don't have another wheel with a HG driver to try at the moment.