Looking for some user experiences with brakes..

[Charliep]

If you need to use more than one finger ever, then IMO your brakes are not good enough for the terrain you ride. It should not require lots of hand strength either.

What brakes do you run?

Downhill runs not the mt7 have improved everything and the xt with a 203 icetech on heckler also very good. The sram guide that the bullit came with o don’t rate literally no feel ended up with squishy lever feel and got caught a few times as they do eventually lock. Notice fade on bigger runs too on sram not so with my new mt7

 

[militantmandy]

Downhill runs not the mt7 have improved everything and the xt with a 203 icetech on heckler also very good. The sram guide that the bullit came with o don’t rate literally no feel ended up with squishy lever feel and got caught a few times as they do eventually lock. Notice fade on bigger runs too on sram not so with my new mt7

I guess you've hit the nail on the head. Mt7 should not need more than one finger in any situation. Guides are just not very good.

 

[Planemo]

Magura MT7: wow, what brakes! Amazing power! But honestly I am very unhappy because of the bleeding needs. Bleed is required pretty often, much more than on other brakes I owned.

I'm surprised to hear this, my MT5's haven't been touched since I bought the bike nearly 2 years ago now and the awesome bite point/power hasn't changed in the slightest.

There really should be no need to bleed brakes other than to replace fluid as it should be a totally sealed system. If air is getting in then there must be a leak/not enough fluid in the system. Given the MT series don't even really have a reservoir it's not like the fluid can even get 'low' really so you must have had air in them since the get-go.

 

[unclezz]

I'm surprised to hear this, my MT5's haven't been touched since I bought the bike nearly 2 years ago now and the awesome bite point/power hasn't changed in the slightest.

There really should be no need to bleed brakes other than to replace fluid as it should be a totally sealed system. If air is getting in then there must be a leak/not enough fluid in the system. Given the MT series don't even really have a reservoir it's not like the fluid can even get 'low' really so you must have had air in them since the get-go.

I was surprised too. But I installed them two times and in both cases I experienced the same.

I followed the steps: installation, first bleeding, tuning ok.
Then after a while (several weeks) bleeding needed again.

But now you made me thinking a bit.... I am now suspecting that the reason of the above can be linked to the siringe and hose system I was using with my old bleeding kit.. Maybe it was somehow letting air entering the system?

We will see in few more weeks after the last bleeding with the Magura kit.

 

[Planemo]

But now you made me thinking a bit.... I am now suspecting that the reason of the above can be linked to the siringe and hose system I was using with my old bleeding kit.. Maybe it was somehow letting air entering the system?

I'm not convinced of that as you would feel it immediately you locked everything off after removing the bleeding kit. Air is air and you would have a spongy lever from the outset. If a lever becomes spongy after a period of time then the only explanation is that air has got in. The bite point on mine is rock solid and hasn't changed since new.

I will add though that after purchasing the bike (and whilst still in the shop) both levers felt spongy to me and I said to them I wasn't overly happy with how they were. They were certainly spongier than the XT's I had been riding with on my old bike. The salesman said he would get his mechanic to bleed them but that 'these Maguras can be a bit of a pain to bleed'.

When I picked the bike up a few days later the levers had a lovely firm bite and like I say haven't changed since. So even some LBS's may struggle with bleeding them if it makes you feel a little better!

 

[James_C]

I'm tired of fiddling with my Guide REs.

problems:

• discs always warping, always trying to true them
• pistons get regularly gummed up
• squishy levers, always seem to be bleeding
• really struggled at bike park wales recently, just couldnt clamp down enough to stop (conditions were poor admittedly)

do MT7s or Shimano XT make that lot above all go away?

 

[Scford]

I'm tired of fiddling with my Guide REs.

problems:

• discs always warping, always trying to true them
• pistons get regularly gummed up
• squishy levers, always seem to be bleeding
• really struggled at bike park wales recently, just couldnt clamp down enough to stop (conditions were poor admittedly)

do MT7s or Shimano XT make that lot above all go away?

No experience with maguras, I’ve head good things but xt’s eliminated all the above problems for me!

 

[militantmandy]

I'm tired of fiddling with my Guide REs.

problems:

• discs always warping, always trying to true them
• pistons get regularly gummed up
• squishy levers, always seem to be bleeding
• really struggled at bike park wales recently, just couldnt clamp down enough to stop (conditions were poor admittedly)

do MT7s or Shimano XT make that lot above all go away?

Yes, but I'd probably go MT5 over 7.

 

[Jurassic]

I've always been super happy with my XT and Saint brakes on my other bikes but the new XTs on my eeb are a bit less satisfactory so far. The front lever travel is inconsistent despite multiple bleeds and changing pads (twice) and swapping to a thicker rotor (220x2mm from 200 x1.8mm). My next attempt to fix it is going to be changing fluid to Putoline GPR 6 as suggested earlier in this thread. I'm surprised to be having this issue with the front brake only tbh, I would have expected it to be better than the rear given the shorter hose and thicker rotor but it's definitely not.

 

[Charliep]

I'm tired of fiddling with my Guide REs.

problems:

• discs always warping, always trying to true them
• pistons get regularly gummed up
• squishy levers, always seem to be bleeding
• really struggled at bike park wales recently, just couldnt clamp down enough to stop (conditions were poor admittedly)

do MT7s or Shimano XT make that lot above all go away?

Yes xt go ice tech and mt7 so far with green pads and the e-bike rotor work far better than anything else great feel when back wheel off the ground under heavy braking can tip it in with accuracy

 

[JP-NZ]

I'm tired of fiddling with my Guide REs.

problems:

• discs always warping, always trying to true them
• pistons get regularly gummed up
• squishy levers, always seem to be bleeding
• really struggled at bike park wales recently, just couldnt clamp down enough to stop (conditions were poor admittedly)

do MT7s or Shimano XT make that lot above all go away?

XT 4 pot M8120. YES!

 

[Dax]

Shimanos really lack modulation, they’re very on/off compared to a well bled set of codes. Great in the alps with massive descents, unpleasant in the UK.

 

[Jurassic]

Shimanos really lack modulation, they’re very on/off compared to a well bled set of codes. Great in the alps with massive descents, unpleasant in the UK.

Modulation is what you get used to, Shimanos are absolutely fine if you're accustomed to brakes that aren't spongey like SRAM.

 

[ilostmypassword]

Can't go wrong with XT brakes. I doubt you can tell much difference from SLX- Deore- or XT in the real world.

 

[Mteam]

Just ordered a set of mt7 for my trek fuel exe.

I have sram code rsc on my normal bike - they're really good.

I have shimano xt 8120 on my other ebike (wild fs)- they're also really good.

 

[James_C]

Do you mind me asking why mt7 then?

Just ordered a set of mt7 for my trek fuel exe.

I have sram code rsc on my normal bike - they're really good.

I have shimano xt 8120 on my other ebike (wild fs)- they're also really good.

 

[Mteam]

Do you mind me asking why mt7 then?

No worries, no good reason really, I just fancied trying something new,and they get great reviews, and the price was good at 240 euros for the pair

 

[unclezz]

Just as a follow up... I did the quick bleeding on my Magura MT7 and found out that on the front brake had the bleed screw a bit loose :|
I use the Magura kit, so I will see how much it lasts now

 

[Doug Stampfer]

I'm wanting to replace my broken rear shimano slx caliper 4 piston with either a slx or xt 2 piston caliper . I don't want to replace the lever & run a new brake line etc so only want to replace the caliper. Most of the 2 piston ones I've seen for sale locally have a banjo adapter. Is this normal for 2 pots or are they a previous model?
Anyone in NZ got a 2nd hand one on their garage they want to sell?

 

[Mteam]

My Mt7 Pro brakes arrived the other day, I only have one ride on them so far, but they seem really good. They seem to have the power (well, probably more power actually) of sram code rsc with the modulation of hope brakes.

 

[unclezz]

My Mt7 Pro brakes arrived the other day, I only have one ride on them so far, but they seem really good. They seem to have the power (well, probably more power actually) of sram code rsc with the modulation of hope brakes.

I have both Sram (code RS) and Mt7…. After a bit of running-in you will realize that mt7 are much more aggressive than Sram… so you feel that they are more powerful (not that they necessarily are…). I like both of them, although they are different. If I had to choose one I think Magura are designed a bit better. For example I love the way you insert pads in caliper with magnets

I am still a bit unhappy about the bleeding that is not so easy for beginners

 

[toby2222]

SRAM Code RSC with SRAM HS2 220MM rotors F&R.

Great modulation, plenty of power & super reliable. These brakes are really confidence inspiring.

Did you have any problems with the rotors rubbing on the pads? I have the same set up but want to run galfer 2mm 223mm rotors but can't seem to set them up without them rubbing on the pads, there's no gap between the rotor and pad!!

 

[unclezz]

Did you have any problems with the rotors rubbing on the pads? I have the same set up but want to run galfer 2mm 223mm rotors but can't seem to set them up without them rubbing on the pads, there's no gap between the rotor and pad!!

I have this setup and I have no issues of rotors rubbing the pads.
However I had to align the brake pistons because one side was coming out much more than the other.

 

[Lee c]

Ordered and on way, thanks for the help guys , I’m going to try and fit them with my current sram 220mm rotors and see if I can get lucky with the current calliper adapters on the focus sam2 for the codes I have a funny feeling them shimano compatible but they may only be for 203mm

Can’t believe it’s been nearly a year since I put the xt brakes on, and tbh they have been game changing!!! Superb brakes, fit and forget so far and offer so much more confidence and control on the steep stuff, I also found after latest bpw trip I didn’t get any finger ache from using the xts but in the past with sram I did, so if any one is on the fence just buy them !

 

[UnreasonableMuppet]

I'm a Hayes Dominion fan. I put a set on my bike and like them a lot. Easy to bleed, and the little grub screws on the calipers make setup easy. I found them on sale, so got a set last year. Great power and modulation. I replaced some Shimano 4piston brakes that also had great power but not great modulation.
The brake set came with resin and metal sintered pads. The resin pads are great, but wore out fast. The metal pads are good and lasting a lot longer.

I have XT 2pots on my lightweight meat powered bike, and those work great, but the lever clamp is weak. Broke one in a crash.

 

[Lee c]

Been hearing lots of good stuff about the hayes brakes, when I decide to upgrade the brakes on my non e bike I’ll have a look at them!

 

[R3Z3N]

The code r is particularly annoying, every few rides I would have to reset the pistons to get a decent lever feel back. Sram uses 2 different pressures one in the hose/caliper and a second in the master cylinder, eventually they equilibrate and need to be reset. That gives the weak bite. Shimano uses 1 pressure hence a more on/off feel and imo a better bite.

At the end of the day a buddy of mine said if you’re thinking about it while riding just get something different because it’s bothering you.

Incorrect, pressure in the system will be the same between master and caliper pistons. However what you mean is it, like many other brakes out there, uses 2 different size pistons.

Why?

Because as the rotor turns, it pulls the pads. The leading edge (edge that hits the rotor first) is pulled inward and the trailing edge is dragging. Therefore the pressure due to the rotational pull (friction) is actually causing uneven wear on the pads. 2 ways to counter this: The usual which is a larger piston at trailing edge to push harder (more power) due to the larger surface area. As the pads/pistons are already contacting the rotor, movement is no longer happening outside of caliper/master/hose and lever flex. The other way to counter is to have the pad material (or even the backing plate but none do this as I am aware) not be simply rectangular/parallel to pad face but rather leading edge is thicker as it wears quicker with equal piston sizes.

So also due to pascals law, 2 piston is not more powerful than 4 or even 6 piston if the two calipers have the same piston surface area. Hence why BMW E36 M3 had a SINGLE (ONE!) piston caliper up front......