Levo Gen 4 Levo Cutting out Issues (Orange Screen of death)

[DuncanDoughnuts]

Hi
I would like to build a knowledge base of some of the issues some folks have been having with there levos cutting out.

If you have had a problem, did you manage to sort it out? and how? And what caused it? (landing a flat drop, large compression. or JRA)

Not sure specialised is going to be much help with this and with many clever folk on here I'm sure we can come to the root cause of this.

 

[MattinCO]

My bike has this issue. From what I’ve seen on FB, it seems to be an issue affecting the early production bikes, purchased mine 4/15 and it has 375 miles. It happens to mine when riding rocky trails, starts with the assistance cutting out for a split second periodically along with a click noise from the gear lash and usually progresses to the red screen error message, where I usually pull the battery and put it back in, then all is good for another 10-20 miles until it happens again. The computer logs error codes that the shop can see.

It’s been back to the shop 3 times for this issue. First time, they didn’t have a fix yet, but were aware of the issue. Second time, they adjusted the alignment of the battery and motor, but I still had the issue. Third time, battery and motor adjusted again, but the issue persists.

I’ve done some testing with the battery from my wife’s bike and didn’t have any cut outs while using her battery, so it could be battery related, but more testing is needed. She hasn’t had any cut outs, but doesn’t ride as hard and rides way less than me, inconclusive if her bike will have the issue with more riding.

 

[luna87824]

My bike has this issue. From what I’ve seen on FB, it seems to be an issue affecting the early production bikes, purchased mine 4/15 and it has 375 miles. It happens to mine when riding rocky trails, starts with the assistance cutting out for a split second periodically along with a click noise from the gear lash and usually progresses to the red screen error message, where I usually pull the battery and put it back in, then all is good for another 10-20 miles until it happens again. The computer logs error codes that the shop can see.

It’s been back to the shop 3 times for this issue. First time, they didn’t have a fix yet, but were aware of the issue. Second time, they adjusted the alignment of the battery and motor, but I still had the issue. Third time, battery and motor adjusted again, but the issue persists.

I’ve done some testing with the battery from my wife’s bike and didn’t have any cut outs while using her battery, so it could be battery related, but more testing is needed. She hasn’t had any cut outs, but doesn’t ride as hard and rides way less than me, inconclusive if her bike will have the issue with more riding.

Put your battery in her bike, than take it for a hard ride and see what happens..........

 

[MattinCO]

Put your battery in her bike, than take it for a hard ride and see what happens..........

Great idea, her bike is much smaller, will have to try it out, plus see if she’s good with me taking it out for a solid ride. I’m out of town until early July, hopefully the shop will have a better solution by then.

 

[luna87824]

Great idea, her bike is much smaller, will have to try it out, plus see if she’s good with me taking it out for a solid ride. I’m out of town until early July, hopefully the shop will have a better solution by then.

Did you get it fixed yet?

 

[MattinCO]

Did you get it fixed yet?

Still out of town, but did get a message from the bike shop about a “new battery nest and preload assembly” being shipped from Specialized.

It will probably be mid July until I can get in 3-4 rides to know if their solution fixed the issue.

 

[braaten22]

Hey i have the same issues with my bike, i got respons today that there is a version 2 of the battery mount on its way now. Crossong my fingers this is the cause! Will report back after i install it

 

[Lithium]

I thought I heard clunking during a rocky descent, stopped half way down but couldn't work out what was making the noise. All OK until I finished the trail and started climbing back up, the bike cut out and I had this orange screen & the bike restarted. Then cut out twice on the way back to the car.

Mechanic said that the battery nest had slipped - took the motor out and adjusted it back into position and all has been fine since. Suspect the fixing bolts weren't torqued right in the first place. Otherwise, the bike is great (Levo Gen 4 Pro)

 

[MattinCO]

Got the bike back with the new battery nest installed. It has some springs underneath it so it can move and keep the connection with the battery. Also takes a bit of downward force on the battery to get it seated enough for the upper bolt hole to line up.
Hoping this is the final solution to the problem. I’ll get some rides in over the next few days and report back.

 

[Wayne-O]

Nice to see you got the new nest installed. I have heard that the new nest may help to alleviate rattle noise as well. Will be interesting to see if rides any quieter as well.

 

[Mikerb]

Springs? So what happens when they become weakened over time? I fear the only way to ensure reliable contact between a battery and the main connector is for them to be bolted to each other.

 

[DuncanDoughnuts]

Springs? So what happens when they become weakened over time? I fear the only way to ensure reliable contact between a battery and the main connector is for them to be bolted to each other.

If it is in two years specialised will give you a new one .... after 2 years you on your own - That's been my experience with the company

 

[tubylas]

Can you post an SKU part number please of this nest?

 

[MattinCO]

I don’t have a part number, maybe someone else can provide that.

I have gotten in 2 rides, total of 33 miles and 5,700’ vertical and no disconnect issues.

 

[luna87824]

I don’t have a part number, maybe someone else can provide that.

I have gotten in 2 rides, total of 33 miles and 5,700’ vertical and no disconnect issues.

So you climbed for 16.5 miles and 5700 feet and then you coasted back down 16.5 miles and lost 5700 feet? Is that almost the same as riding on flat ground for 33 miles?

 

[Mikerb]

So you climbed for 16.5 miles and 5700 feet and then you coasted back down 16.5 miles and lost 5700 feet? Is that almost the same as riding on flat ground for 33 miles?

its a valid point! I am often bemused when guys talk a bout range and quote distance and "vertical" because as you just pointed out for ever metre you climb you invariably get a metre of freewheel downhill!!

 

[MattinCO]

Wasn’t trying to pull a fast one on anyone, if there’s a better way to explain ride distance and vertical, let me know.

By stating the distance and vertical, I meant to give some context on what my rides entailed. Each ride had the same beginning and end point, along with both uphill and downhill.

 

[DylanJM]

Wasn’t trying to pull a fast one on anyone, if there’s a better way to explain ride distance and vertical, let me know.

By stating the distance and vertical, I meant to give some context on what my rides entailed. Each ride had the same beginning and end point, along with both uphill and downhill.

I wouldn’t worry about it. Almost everyone uses ride distance and climbing elevation on here for describing rides (descent is assumed). Not sure why those posters are being so pedantic about it.

 

[luna87824]

Wasn’t trying to pull a fast one on anyone, if there’s a better way to explain ride distance and vertical, let me know.

By stating the distance and vertical, I meant to give some context on what my rides entailed. Each ride had the same beginning and end point, along with both uphill and downhill.

It was just a joke!!!​

 

[Mikerb]

Well.......having a discussion is not necessarilly pedantic...it can be informative. I just wonder if there is not a better way to evaluate the impact on range in a ride description.
So if a ride consists point a to point b and it consists a constant steady incline the difference in elevation between start and finish is relevant.......like a hill climb event. If the ride then consists a to b and b to a the elevation ( when considering battery use/range) is far less relevant.
The elevation is relevant when describing any particular ride because it adds some context......but as a way of assessing range it needs far more detail which our bikes dont record to be relevant.
Note.....can't think of any vehicle manufacturer that does that. Cars etc are tested for mpg or km/litre on level circuits.

 

[Flashpunk]

Sorry for bumping an old thread. I just got my gen4 back from the shop after having this fix done. I think I ordered the first few days after announcement of this bike (the day before the tariffs increased the price of the bike) - so I suspect I got an early model.

The battery seems to fit a lot tighter in the cavity now. I haven’t been able to ride it yet so can’t say for sure if it’s fixed.

 

[WatermanJim]

i have an early one and i dont think it matters. I read on another thread that a guy with a new nest had the same problem. i read about the problem then mine started doing it. when I realigned the nest with the bike upside down and i noticed the bolts are all on one side. not the best design , as it allows the nest to bend and move creating wear on the terminals. I got it seated as straight and hard as possible and added some dielectric grease to the terminals and so far so good. im sure they will change this design in the future.

 

[Flashpunk]

dielectric grease sounds like a good idea - but I've had to remove the battery so many times because of this issue, id be worried dust would just get stuck to the terminals.

 

[PeterHenric]

I had the new nest installed and it was flawless for a few rides then started surging again. Only short term fix was remove the battery then simply replace it. After this happened a few times I ”cleaned” the battery and nest off with compressed air and then put some dielectric grease on it. Been a few rides since with no issues but I’m not ready to declare the problem solved. Will follow up after a few more.

 

[DaveGo]

Have the same issue. Removed battery and it worked again.

Will contact my dealer soon to get it fixed.

 

[PeterHenric]

Have the same issue. Removed battery and it worked again.

Will contact my dealer soon to get it fixed.

So depending on the dealer, you might be able to get it fixed quickly or not. When I was having the issue I called down to the dealer to see if they had any of the cradles in stock. I understand they are in short supply. He told me they had one on hand but wouldn’t promise it to me until they went through a few steps and got approval from Specialized. It wasn’t as simple as just complaining about it and them installing it in my bike. I’ve heard of people having to wait weeks for the whole process to be done. Hopefully it’ll get resolved quickly for you.

 

[RickBullotta]

Keep in mind that dielectric grease, despite mythology to the contrary, is non-conductive. Don't overdo it. It's really meant to help prevent water intrusion and corrosion. Too much, particularly in a loose fitting connector, will have the opposite of the desired effect.

 

[Mikerb]

Keep in mind that dielectric grease, despite mythology to the contrary, is non-conductive. Don't overdo it. It's really meant to help prevent water intrusion and corrosion. Too much, particularly in a loose fitting connector, will have the opposite of the desired effect.

.....and if the issue is caused by a loose connection it will achieve nothing. The only reason to use any grease is to prevent water ingress into a connector, and any grease will do that if applied on the outside of a connector that holds electrical contact pins or contact points. As for the contacts and flat surface of a plug holding those pins, cleanliness is the most important factor. Dielectric grease has a use in the car industry but I see no application for emtbs.
Trek had similar battery disconnection issues with its down tube side loading design. I would guess the issue is probably the same with the gen 4 levo. Supporting a heavy battery at both ends is not sufficient to prevent lateral movement. That lateral movement will weaken and loosen the male contact pin into female connector causing arcing and eventually a high resistance disconnection. The answer must surely be to implement a system in the downtube to prevent any lateral battery movement.

 

[RickBullotta]

.....and if the issue is caused by a loose connection it will achieve nothing. The only reason to use any grease is to prevent water ingress into a connector, and any grease will do that if applied on the outside of a connector that holds electrical contact pins or contact points. As for the contacts and flat surface of a plug holding those pins, cleanliness is the most important factor. Dielectric grease has a use in the car industry but I see no application for emtbs.
Trek had similar battery disconnection issues with its down tube side loading design. I would guess the issue is probably the same with the gen 4 levo. Supporting a heavy battery at both ends is not sufficient to prevent lateral movement. That lateral movement will weaken and loosen the male contact pin into female connector causing arcing and eventually a high resistance disconnection. The answer must surely be to implement a system in the downtube to prevent any lateral battery movement.

I use it liberally for trailer connectors - for electronics, not so much.

 

[Mikerb]

.....and if the issue is caused by a loose connection it will achieve nothing. The only reason to use any grease is to prevent water ingress into a connector, and any grease will do that if applied on the outside of a connector that holds electrical contact pins or contact points. As for the contacts and flat surface of a plug holding those pins, cleanliness is the most important factor. Dielectric grease has a use in the car industry but I see no application for emtbs.
Trek had similar battery disconnection issues with its down tube side loading design. I would guess the issue is probably the same with the gen 4 levo. Supporting a heavy battery at both ends is not sufficient to prevent lateral movement. That lateral movement will weaken and loosen the male contact pin into female connector causing arcing and eventually a high resistance disconnection. The answer must surely be to implement a system in the downtube to prevent any lateral battery movement.

If my analysis is correct the current spesh "fix" appears to be nothing more than the use of some "spring washers" in the cradle to increase top to bottom tension. If I have that right I fear it will not address the root cause of the problem. One answer would be a new cradle and top fixing to which a rigid bar could be attached running along the length of the battery.......or a downtube side opening cover that included a stiff pad and was itself stiff enough, not to allow any flex. Once closed, it would ensure full stability of the battery.