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$/vertical footAnybody got any stats on the amount of hours or battery vs cost?
Thanks!When I bought my e-MTB I initially kept very careful track of the cost per mile (actually per km…), just out of curiosity, together with many other parameters. At the time I was living in the Canary Islands, where electricity cost 0.13–0.18 €/kWh, so a full charge of a 625 Wh battery was just a few cents.
Since I was usually riding for many hours in ECO mode on a single charge, the cost was so negligible that I quickly stopped bothering about it.
Electricity is more expensive here, but even so the cost per mile or per hour is still almost irrelevant, unless you’re referring to the total cost of a new battery amortized over the distance ridden. But even in that case, we’re talking about well a few cents per mile.
Replace but Pagheca's info is informative as well.Are you asking how to charge the battery or to replace it?
To charge, here in New England the electrical rate is ~ $0.34/kWh... so a 600-800 wH battery would be $0.20-0.27. This doesn't take into account charger efficiency, so it'll be a little more in reality.
Thanks!If just considering the replacement cost of the battery... If we are to assume that a battery costs 1000.00 and it has a life of 500 to 1000 charge cycles and you charge 3 times a week, then the battery depreciation costs could possibly be about $13 to $26 per month, depending on how gently you treat it. That averages out to about 6 cents per mile if you ride 25 miles per charge.
Another cost is the amount of electricity consumed (At 0.30 per Kwh) which is so low that it is basically a rounding error at $0.088 per mile. Which would negate any savings from buying a solar panel system to charge it. The solar system would not ever pay for its self. For context a car at 30 mpg averages $0.13 per mile in fuel at 4.00 a gal.
On the other side of the scale is a single engine piston aircraft like a Cessna 182. The costs including engine reserve and maintenance is $1.60 per mile or $260.00 per hour. So consider ourselves lucky to have an affordable sport.
So I have heard but if your buying a bike second hand it's impossible to determine what kind of charging regime the person who owned it was using.Charging to 80 percent and discharging to 20 percent helps as well as not having them sit with a low or high charge. Best to have them at about 70 % charge for storage.
That one is easy if you factor into the price, the items of risk, 1000 for the battery and 1000 for a new motor, to cover the eventualities, and no I am not joking when you consider the potential for having a bad day. At least that is the formula I use for buying a used emtb.So I have heard but if your buying a bike second hand it's impossible to determine what kind of charging regime the person who owned it was using.