Levo Gen 4 Genie vs X2

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Dude the genie is way better than the X2
Well better than last year's version anyways.

What are you looking for out the shock?
I found it very plush. I've even added a spacer for mid stroke support.

Maybe you're just not setup right?
 
Very possible….
Just seems to come to a dead stop when landing drops. But not a bottom out stop. Almost as if the last bit is sooo progressive it goes from smooth to wall of harshness. Not sure I’m explains it right.
 
The new Levo suspension is not very progressive. Specialized compensated for this with the crazy progressive genie shock. You do not want a linear shock on a Levo unless you like hard bottom outs.
 
DuncanDoughnuts said:
Very possible….
Just seems to come to a dead stop when landing drops. But not a bottom out stop. Almost as if the last bit is sooo progressive it goes from smooth to wall of harshness. Not sure I’m explains it right.
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150 mm is not enough for hitting big drops. No shock will get around to the total travel. Only solution would be buying a cascade link or different bike.
 
Well on drops its most likely an aircan/pressure/spacer problem. Have you experimented with that? You could also just swap the shocks to isolate the problem. The Genie is basically a high flow float X with a fancy air can design. Most likely it isn't the tune of the shock or the kinematics because they should be rather similar.

I didn't ride the Gen 4 but from what I've read it seemed to be optimized on small bump/chunk sensitivity which will naturally reduce big hit resiliency at that amount of travel.

As you're bottoming out on both shocks I'd also check tire pressure and compare tires (thinner casing will feel harsher on everything).
 
DuncanDoughnuts said:
my gen 3 has no problem and feels much smoother ..... it has a float x on
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The Gen3 frame is a bit more progressive than the Gen4 — maybe that’s what you’re noticing.
If I were you, I’d try removing a token from additional aircan or using a smaller one in main can, and increasing air pressure.

What you're describing sounds exactly like my 2021 Stumpjumper. Specialized suspension designs are often very linear — while that's great for traction and a smooth ride, it doesn’t handle big impacts or g-outs that well.
I managed to find some mid-stroke support, but lost a bit of initial sensitivity on my stumpy. Overall, it's better now, but still not great. I actually really like the suspension design of the Gen3 a lot more, but sometimes wish it to be even more progressive.
 
DuncanDoughnuts said:
Very possible….
Just seems to come to a dead stop when landing drops. But not a bottom out stop. Almost as if the last bit is sooo progressive it goes from smooth to wall of harshness. Not sure I’m explains it right.
Click to expand...
change the green bottom out stopper for the small one, if it's not already in. That will make a huge difference. Add another mid stroke spacer too, you will lose a touch of top end subtleness but the support is great further through the stroke. There are some nice youtube vids out there to do it yourself (it's very easy)
Worst part of the job is pumping the thing back up.

 
It's not about rider weight. It's just that 150 mm bikes are usually not designed to withstand the forces of big drops. If you want to ride big drops and and road gaps you have to take a look at bikes that are 160 mm plus. Usually cat 5 is 170-180 mm or more.

Sure you might get away with it on the right landing and the right technique but a heavy rider on the wrong landing might end up with a catastrophic failure.
 
Hitorogoshi said:
change the green bottom out stopper for the small one, if it's not already in. That will make a huge difference. Add another mid stroke spacer too, you will lose a touch of top end subtleness but the support is great further through the stroke. There are some nice youtube vids out there to do it yourself (it's very easy)
Worst part of the job is pumping the thing back up.

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Thanks for this ... this will help me. (y)
 
I hit big stuff on Levo all the time and this is what can happen and they wouldn’t warranty it C-CKS

IMG_5395.jpeg
 
Yeah, this is a cat 4 trail bike. This means heavier people should stick to 0,5-1 m drops with good landings. Anything higher or bad landing will stress the frame too much in the long run. It also depends on shock setup. If bottom outs are harsh all the time like metal on metal sound you need to add air/spacers/compression or a cascade link with more travel.
 
Just a correction, according to cascade components the Levo suspension has a progression ratio of 12%. That’s crazy, way worse than I thought. They offer links that will fix this including a long shock set that adds 20mm of travel with a bigger rear shock.
 
Specialized seems to generate the progression with the genie rather than the kinematic of the frame which I read can be superior in some cases and I've read on here that someone liked the genie better than the flat x2.

But more travel would be hard to beat I guess.
 
Does anyone have the Cascade long travel linkage yet? If so it would be great to get a ride and handling description discussing the shock or shocks used.
 
electricbogaloo said:
It's not about rider weight. It's just that 150 mm bikes are usually not designed to withstand the forces of big drops. If you want to ride big drops and and road gaps you have to take a look at bikes that are 160 mm plus. Usually cat 5 is 170-180 mm or more.

Sure you might get away with it on the right landing and the right technique but a heavy rider on the wrong landing might end up with a catastrophic failure.
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Yep, how my rear carbon stay went on my Gen3. Not big drop at all with nice transition, but landed a little side heavy to back end and she snapped right in two. Gen4 feels stouter, possibly stronger to these kind of loads.

If bottoming easy in Genie, go thicker spacer and more pressure, 25-27% sag. If hitting wall too fast without fulling bottoming out the shock, go air can band for the mid-stroke.

I have my Genie up pretty good for me, but at end of the day, only 150 travel no matter how you slice it, so will hit the end fairly quick with heavy riding. I think the CC link likely the way to go for you for added progression
 
electricbogaloo said:
Yeah, this is a cat 4 trail bike. This means heavier people should stick to 0,5-1 m drops with good landings. Anything higher or bad landing will stress the frame too much in the long run. It also depends on shock setup. If bottom outs are harsh all the time like metal on metal sound you need to add air/spacers/compression or a cascade link with more travel.
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Cat 4 bikes have been sent off much larger features than 0.5-1m drops just fine. Plenty of cat 4 mtbs and emtbs being ridden hard at world level Enduro races. I would have zero worries about the Levo from a durability perspective.
 
DylanJM said:
Cat 4 bikes have been sent off much larger features than 0.5-1m drops just fine. Plenty of cat 4 mtbs and emtbs being ridden hard at world level Enduro races. I would have zero worries about the Levo from a durability perspective.
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Levo4 likely more durable structurally than the Levo3, but too soon to tell? Within two years my Levo Comp Carbon 3 was broken badly, so not strong enough for me in the end or should of unloaded it after first motor replaced. Went thru Levo4 motor under 6 weeks of use. Being replaced now. Overall, frame feels stronger though, so should stand some abuse
 
If you're light and know what you are doing you might get away with riding a Levo in the bike park all the time. But don't expect it to last on all gaps all the time when you have a bad case etc. Its not a dh or freeride bike, not even a proper enduro plus the weight of the motor and battery further strain the frame. And also making an ebike frame light and constructing it around a motor and battery with openings for a big battery/display/motor might make it more structurally vulnerable.

If you want to go big all the time you need something with more travel and a cat 5 rating. If you're riding mostly lift/shuttle assisted stuff I wouldn't even get an ebike.
 
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I bought the new x2 shock for my gen3 and been riding it for two months and it hasn’t blow up yet levos do like to eat air shocks but I thought I would give this one a go
 
DS. said:
I bought the new x2 shock for my gen3 and been riding it for two months and it hasn’t blow up yet levos do like to eat air shocks but I thought I would give this one a go
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I had to warranty 3 2023 x2’s for my Kenevo. The new side ways piggy back x2 is a single tube unlike the old one. The float x is also a single tube shock, just fewer clickers. Personally I am done with x2’s but each their own…. Btw, any bike with a shock yoke is tough on all shocks. The yoke is just an extra lever arm that can overload shock shafts.
 
I've read in a few reviews that the new X2 is not as sensitive as the old one. I wonder if that's due to the monotube design or a firmer valving.

Because I remember when the cance creek double barrel shocks became popular over 10 years ago and everyone was raving about how sensitive they are, I think it was also said because of the thin piston, it might have had to do with them being the first twin tube mtb shock. The double barrel basically started the twin tube hype and I had one in my dh bike and apart from one time pulling air it worked pretty good over the 4 years that I owned it.

With the X2 it has to be said that they are more prone to leaking air into the oil circuit the higher the pressure is. So if someone is heavy its probably best to avoid the old X2.

I'm a lighter rider and ran a 2024 X2 for one season without issues (I bought it as a 2023 that didn't have the new sealhead that was introduced in mj2024 fitted and was gurgling when I got it from the shop and got it replaced for the mj24 by fox). My sister had a 21/22 model that had air in the oil from the factory. So hard to say if this is due to it being pressured to high from the factory, the old sealhad or the two factors combined. The model year 2025 twin tube X2 has a slightly reinforced sealhead compared to model year 2024 but the people servicing them say its still not enough for higher pressures.

But I also read some reports that from model year 2024 on with the new seal head they are more reliable.
 
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Like I said, I have 2023 Kenevo, it came with a Rockshox super deluxe select…… total POS… imo. Tried the fox x2, sold the 4th one. Tried the fox dhx, that sucked air as well. Tried a fox float x, great trail shock but not plush. Got a great deal on a ohlins ttx1 air (the small can, more progressive shock). Best air shock I have tried on the Kenevo. Then I saw a YouTube video by this guy OTTER MTB SPORTS, and he loved the Suntour Voro coil, so I picked one up for the Kenevo ($400)and it is a great shock. That’s currently my favorite shock for the Kenevo it is, seems it’s GUTS were designed by DVO who use suntour to manufacture all their shocks and forks. Do I think the voro is a great shock? Not really, it’s just well tuned for the Kenevo and it has a 14mm steal shaft that should not snap with the shock yoke….. my advice, skip rockshox And Fox and try Ohlins and ext…. Maybe Formula…..
 
I mean nowadays if you buy an aftermarket shock it depends on the valving if it suits your frame and weight.
 
mustclime said:
Like I said, I have 2023 Kenevo, it came with a Rockshox super deluxe select…… total POS… imo. Tried the fox x2, sold the 4th one. Tried the fox dhx, that sucked air as well. Tried a fox float x, great trail shock but not plush. Got a great deal on a ohlins ttx1 air (the small can, more progressive shock). Best air shock I have tried on the Kenevo. Then I saw a YouTube video by this guy OTTER MTB SPORTS, and he loved the Suntour Voro coil, so I picked one up for the Kenevo ($400)and it is a great shock. That’s currently my favorite shock for the Kenevo it is, seems it’s GUTS were designed by DVO who use suntour to manufacture all their shocks and forks. Do I think the voro is a great shock? Not really, it’s just well tuned for the Kenevo and it has a 14mm steal shaft that should not snap with the shock yoke….. my advice, ship rockshox And Fox and try Ohlins and ext…. Maybe Formula…..
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electricbogaloo said:
I mean nowadays if you buy an aftermarket shock it depends on the valving if it suits your frame and weight.
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Yea, there are companies that do retuning. Avalanche racing for example, the can retune a Dhx for around $250…. Though about them …. Maybe one day.
 
It's cheaper to check if the valving suits your bike. Because of covid there are many oem shocks for cheap on the market. The ones indended for the ibis hd6 have a valving that works with the cascade long link for the levo gen3.
 
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