front brake squeaks when unengaged. Any idea what might be the cause?

[Underblu]

I had Code RSCs installed on my Heckler MX and ever since that time I’ve gotten brake squeak when moving forward. Oddly, when I move the bike backwards there is no squeak.

I can tell it’s the front break because when I squeeze (engage) the front break the squeaking stops. Could it be a caliper alignment issue and is this something I can do myself?

Other than this annoying squeak, there is no other issue -the brakes work great.

Any insights would be much appreciated.

 

[RustyMTB]

Sounds very much like caliper misalignment. The cure is to put the bike in a stand, loosen the caliper bolts just enough that you can move the caliper, realign it, testing as you go by rotating the wheel & once silent, do the bolts up gently a little at a time so as not to move the caliper & enjoy life. Also, mind your fingers.

 

[Dax]

Bent rotor

 

[RustyMTB]

Bent rotor

I'm yet to see one that isn't!

 

[Mudrider]

best thing to do is pull the pads, check that the rotor is running central in the calliper adjust if necessary, check that the rotor isn't bent slightly try and straighten if necessary, put the pads back in, if you've moved the caliper you may need to push the pistons back slightly, pull the lever see if the pads are moving the same amount and touching the disk at the same time and not forcing the disk over slightly, if not you can manipulate the pads with a flat blade screwdriver. i'm not familiar with sram rsc but this is what i do with my hopes

 

[Underblu]

Sounds very much like caliper misalignment. The cure is to put the bike in a stand, loosen the caliper bolts just enough that you can move the caliper, realign it, testing as you go by rotating the wheel & once silent, do the bolts up gently a little at a time so as not to move the caliper & enjoy life. Also, mind your fingers.

Thank you so much for your insight. I will try that.

 

[RustyMTB]

No problem. Also check for a bent rotor per Dax & if you still have trouble then you may need to clean & lube the pistons in the caliper. A build up of dirt can stop them retracting correctly. There are a bunch of how to's for this on Youtube.

 

[Underblu]

best thing to do is pull the pads, check that the rotor is running central in the calliper adjust if necessary, check that the rotor isn't bent slightly try and straighten if necessary, put the pads back in, if you've moved the caliper you may need to push the pistons back slightly, pull the lever see if the pads are moving the same amount and touching the disk at the same time and not forcing the disk over slightly, if not you can manipulate the pads with a flat blade screwdriver. i'm not familiar with sram rsc but this is what i do with my hopes

Thank you for this additional info! I guess my next move is to get a bike stand as I am not sure if this can be done without one

 

[Dunabunk]

I had Code RSCs installed on my Heckler MX and ever since that time I’ve gotten brake squeak when moving forward. Oddly, when I move the bike backwards there is no squeak.

I can tell it’s the front break because when I squeeze (engage) the front break the squeaking stops. Could it be a caliper alignment issue and is this something I can do myself?

Other than this annoying squeak, there is no other issue -the brakes work great.

Any insights would be much appreciated.

I bought a brake alignment tool and it helps as well, centres the rotor, there are a couple of quid and very helpful

 

[MtBkGrl]

I know this post is already a couple days old, but just in case the OP still has a squeak issue.

Couple easy tips: First make sure the front wheel is centered on the fork. With the bike on the ground loosen the quick release skewer and settle the axle into the fork - tighten. Then loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper just enough to allow it to move - then while squeezing the brake handle (keeping the pads tight to the disc) start tightening the caliper bolts a bit at a time alternating between the two until fully secure. This insures the caliper is square to the disc. (if you just tighten one bolt at a time this will induce a torque twist on the caliper)

This simple adjustment should do the trick. If you still have squeak then you may have a bent disc, check with a straight edge. Happens if you're not careful changing tires or crash into something.

 

[irie]

I know this post is already a couple days old, but just in case the OP still has a squeak issue.

Couple easy tips: First make sure the front wheel is centered on the fork. With the bike on the ground loosen the quick release skewer and settle the axle into the fork - tighten. Then loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper just enough to allow it to move - then while squeezing the brake handle (keeping the pads tight to the disc) start tightening the caliper bolts a bit at a time alternating between the two until fully secure. This insures the caliper is square to the disc. (if you just tighten one bolt at a time this will induce a torque twist on the caliper)

This simple adjustment should do the trick. If you still have squeak then you may have a bent disc, check with a straight edge. Happens if you're not careful changing tires or crash into something.

Three comments from this ^^^ post.

1. When changing tyres always use rotor covers.

2. When changing tyres keep the rotor covers uppermost.

3. When true-ing a rotor take it off the wheel and true it on a sheet of plate glass (which will be dead flat), makes it easy.

 

[Underblu]

Thanks again everyone for all the helpful feedback! I checked the front tire and the calipers look to be in alignment. The back too. I’m wondering if it could be a hub.

What I know it that it really squeaks or creaks. Sounds like an out of tune horn. It is rpm dependent and somewhat intermitten. I think I will take it to my local bike shop.

 

[Dax]

Thanks again everyone for all the helpful feedback! I checked the front tire and the calipers look to be in alignment. The back too. I’m wondering if it could be a hub.

What I know it that it really squeaks or creaks. Sounds like an out of tune horn. It is rpm dependent and somewhat intermitten. I think I will take it to my local bike shop.

Take the pads out and see if the noise goes away.

 

[timo2824]

I know this post is already a couple days old, but just in case the OP still has a squeak issue.

Couple easy tips: First make sure the front wheel is centered on the fork. With the bike on the ground loosen the quick release skewer and settle the axle into the fork - tighten. Then loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper just enough to allow it to move - then while squeezing the brake handle (keeping the pads tight to the disc) start tightening the caliper bolts a bit at a time alternating between the two until fully secure. This insures the caliper is square to the disc. (if you just tighten one bolt at a time this will induce a torque twist on the caliper)

This simple adjustment should do the trick. If you still have squeak then you may have a bent disc, check with a straight edge. Happens if you're not careful changing tires or crash into something.

Are there emtb's that still have a quick release? I figured everyone was a thru axle with a pinch bolt like a motorcycle.

 

[Underblu]

Are there emtb's that still have a quick release? I figured everyone was a thru axle with a pinch bolt like a motorcycle.

Mine is the thicker through axle with a lever on the end

 

[irie]

Are there emtb's that still have a quick release? I figured everyone was a thru axle with a pinch bolt like a motorcycle.

Our Rockshox Pike, Lyrik, and Zeb forks don't have pinch bolts, neither did the Rockshox 35 Gold RL forks our 2022 alloy Rails originally came with.

 

[Weeksy]

Codes 'retraction' is less than some/most other brakes, this also gives them the 'feel' compared to some others. Anyway, as above your brake is slightly rubbing. If you take out a tiny bit of fluid this will usually fix it, but you need to know how to bleed Codes/SRAM using the bleeding edge port. If you're not comfortable with that, remove the wheel, then using a tyre lever push the pads back fractionally, then using the free throw adjuster soften the lever slightly by 2 clicks, when you refit the wheel you should then be OK.
A lot of this can be done easier with the RSC adjuster on Code RSCs, but standard Codes are a little trickier until you get used to it