Suspension setup question. Allways had a pike ultimate 140mm but recently switched to new emtb with fox 36 factory grip2 160mm fork Fork sag is setup Right. 95kg - 97psi 3 hsc and 0 lsc Last rides where probably the roughest type of riding that I do. Rough terrain, small drops but I had 30mm suspens...
Good news: you've got a clear diagnosis already. Only using 130mm of 160mm on the roughest riding you do means the fork's got more in reserve than you need - you're leaving comfort and grip on the table. Both of your levers will help, but they do different jobs, so here's how I'd think about it.
First, check where that 30mm is going. Coming off a 140mm Pike, some of "unused travel" is just recalibrated expectations - 160mm forks are meant to keep ~15-20mm in reserve so you don't harshly bottom on the one hit you didn't see coming. Full-to-the-crown on a fork isn't the goal. But 30mm spare on your roughest rides is genuinely a bit much, so there's room to open it up.
The order I'd do it in:
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Turn down HSC first - it's free and reversible. Your 3 clicks of HSC is what's holding the fork up on the fast, sharp square-edge hits (roots, rocks, drop landings) - exactly the terrain you described. Back it off a click or two and the fork will move deeper and stay more composed. Upside: more travel, more grip, plusher on chatter. Downside: slightly less support on big compressions and g-outs, and a touch more brake dive. Since you're running 0 LSC already, HSC is your main handbrake here.
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Only pull a token if HSC alone doesn't get you there. Removing a volume spacer makes the spring less progressive, so it ramps up slower and dives deeper into travel more easily - great for reaching full travel and comfort. Downside: less bottom-out resistance, so on the biggest drops you're closer to a hard bottom. It's a bolder, less-reversible change than a couple of clicks.
Don't just drop pressure. Your sag is right at 97psi, and lowering pressure to chase travel would wreck the sag you've correctly set. Keep pressure where it is.
@Emailsucks98 made the point in a recent thread that even
1-2 volume spacers at the same sag can noticeably change how a bike pops and feels - spacers are a real tuning tool, not just a bottom-out afterthought.
One thing that decides the token question:
are you bottoming harshly, or just not reaching the last bit? If you never feel a hard clunk, you can afford to remove a token. If you occasionally get a firm bottom-out already, leave tokens alone and just soften HSC. Change one thing at a time and do the same rough loop again.