Flyon motor internals

[Sidepod]

Long story short, I have a spare motor that doesn’t work. I had no idea why.

Curious to know I dived in.

Easy enough to open. Two sides. The drive side and the electronics side.

The e side is just the 4 torx screws around the centre. Once removed the black section can be pulled off. It’s not immediately easy as it’s held in place by an O ring and the centre seal around the crank. Jiggle it push/pull/tap and it will pop off.

This is where I discovered the problem. It looks as if the ribbon cable connecting the pcb to the torque sensor has been sheared.

Once this side of the motor is open the crank assy can be tapped out from the other side.

Removing the opposite side is a bit more tricky. Remove the 9 (I think?) torx screws and copper washers. Once out it’s a cast of gripping the ribs of the casting and pulling it free. Again the central seal creates friction and again, watch out for the big O ring around the edge.

Once off you have access to the drive unit, the sprag clutch and the bearings.
All of the internals look perfect with zero evidence of water or dirt ingress.

Now I just have to source a new crank assy with torque/cadence sensor or repair the ribbon cable.

 

[Jackware]

How about this company to repair the pcb?

Circuit Board Repair Service | PCB & Logic Board Repair UK

Component-level PCB repair and micro-soldering. BGA rework, trace repair, power rail faults and liquid damage. Free estimate with UK-wide service.

uk.electronic.partners

 

[Sidepod]

Hmmm it’s not really a pcb issue. The ribbon cable has sheared off where it joins the crank assy. The photo of the crank obviously has the connection missing. It would be easy but the short stub of the cable where it disappears inside the black tube of the crank between the bearings is barely accessible.
I’ll need to pop the bearings odd the crank and see it I can get at it.

 

[Sidepod]

That said, your link looks pretty good. I’m sure they could fix it. Many thanks.

 

[arawa]

Respect!
Look forward to hearing you have it working again…..

 

[Sidepod]

Ok so a few more photos.

These hopefully show a bit more of what’s going on.
The slot for the ribbon cable is quite tight when the crank assy gets slid inside the drive unit. I wonder if it has spun and sheared the cable. There doesn’t seem to be too much to locate it.

Anyway the good news is I’ve found the company that make the units so hopefully it’ll be replaceable.

E-Bikes - NCTE

Our sensors measure whether and to what extent an e-biker pedals and thus ensure a better and smoother riding feeling.

ncte.com

 

[Hairy bum]

One word ………
bugger

 

[Technomupet67]

Long story short, I have a spare motor that doesn’t work. I had no idea why.

Curious to know I dived in.

Easy enough to open. Two sides. The drive side and the electronics side.

The e side is just the 4 torx screws around the centre. Once removed the black section can be pulled off. It’s not immediately easy as it’s held in place by an O ring and the centre seal around the crank. Jiggle it push/pull/tap and it will pop off.

This is where I discovered the problem. It looks as if the ribbon cable connecting the pcb to the torque sensor has been sheared.

Once this side of the motor is open the crank assy can be tapped out from the other side.

Removing the opposite side is a bit more tricky. Remove the 9 (I think?) torx screws and copper washers. Once out it’s a cast of gripping the ribs of the casting and pulling it free. Again the central seal creates friction and again, watch out for the big O ring around the edge.

Once off you have access to the drive unit, the sprag clutch and the bearings.
All of the internals look perfect with zero evidence of water or dirt ingress.

Now I just have to source a new crank assy with torque/cadence sensor or repair the ribbon cable.

View attachment 66968View attachment 66969View attachment 66970View attachment 66971View attachment 66972View attachment 66973View attachment 66974View attachment 66975View attachment 66976View attachment 66977

Ok so a few more photos.

These hopefully show a bit more of what’s going on.
The slot for the ribbon cable is quite tight when the crank assy gets slid inside the drive unit. I wonder if it has spun and sheared the cable. There doesn’t seem to be too much to locate it.

Anyway the good news is I’ve found the company that make the units so hopefully it’ll be replaceable.

E-Bikes - NCTE

Our sensors measure whether and to what extent an e-biker pedals and thus ensure a better and smoother riding feeling.

ncte.com

View attachment 66985View attachment 66986View attachment 66987View attachment 66988View attachment 66989View attachment 66990View attachment 66991

Thanks for sharing. Good Luck with repairs !

 

[RocketDad]

Any updates on this?

 

[Sidepod]

Any updates on this?

I got nowhere unfortunately. Neither the company that manufactures the crank assy or TQ we’re willing to help.
A bit of a disappointment really. I’ve always found German companies extremely helpful.
I did consider just sending anyway and see what comes back.
Good to see TQ have come out with a new motor recently. Same design principle (strain wave). If it’s a good as the Flyon it’ll be a peach.